The Palm Beach Post

Roy Villacrusis takes us on a spice tour … then turns market finds into masterpieces

By Liz Balmaseda   |  Dining  |  May 02, 2012

Chef Roy Villacrusis (Staff photos by RICHARD GRAULICH)

Roy Villacrusis plies the aisles of Vinh Hung Oriental Market along Military Trail’s spice corridor, directed by a superior force that turns random items on the shelf into notes for a jazz improvisation.

Villacrusis, the Filipino-born chef best known for his masterful ways with sushi, is a sushi chef’s Charlie Parker breathing his own nuance into cultural references. He zeroes in on a tiny red bottle shelved amid a slew of spices and labels hinting of long voyages.

“What do you use that for?” I ask, peering at the bottle of Japanese red pepper mix labeled Shichimi Togarashi.

“Finishing touches,” says the 35-year-old chef, who might easily be mistaken for a musician – rocker hair, funky vest, chunky white shades.

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Cinco de Mayo at Cantina Laredo

By Liz Balmaseda   |  Dining, Feast Palm Beach, Hispanic  |  May 01, 2012

Margarita Picosa at Cantina Laredo

Cantina Laredo at Midtown does Cinco de Mayo in style, with an 8-piece Latin band, a crew of salsa dancers and fancy tequila mixology. The party happens at the cantina’s recently expanded patio bar.

The Cinco de Mayo happy hour starts at 4 p.m. Saturday, and the entertainment (the Tairon Aguilera band, and dancers from Alexander’s Ballroom) kicks off at 7 p.m.
Add to this some Herradura shots, poured at the outside bar, and a couple of special-occasion cocktails, including the Sweet Heat ’Rita (Corazon Blanco Tequila, Cointreau Orange Liqueur, strawberry purée and Monin habanero lime syrup, $11.50), and you’ve got a full-blown bash.
And, yes, Cantina’s full delicious menu will be served inside.

Cantina Laredo: 4635 PGA Blvd. (Midtown), Palm Beach Gardens; (561) 622-1223; CantinaLaredo.com

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The Sunday Special: Pho 16

By Liz Balmaseda   |  Restaurant reviews  |  April 29, 2012

Barbecue short ribs with steamed rice at Pho 16. (Bruce R. Bennett / Palm Beach Post)

THE FOOD: Fragrant, restorative Vietnamese soul food. Pho 16 offers an extensive menu of Vietnamese pho and other noodle soups, rice soups, vermicelli bowls, pan-fried noodles, hot pots, fried rice, vegetables, and generously portioned appetizers – all house-made by chef/owner Andy Truong. The industrious chef nurtures the pho stocks (for more than a dozen varieties of the comforting soup) for about 30 hours, using beef bones and plenty of chicken bones, along with his own blend of spices, to deepen each broth. The result is homey, yet complex, a soup that’s served with a heap of sprouts, Thai basil, chilies and greens on the side.

THE AMBIANCE: The clean, functional, bare-bones storefront space, which sits in the busy Crosstown Plaza, is filled regularly with hungry and diverse lunch and dinner crowds.

THE BACKSTORY: Vietnamese-born chef/owner Andy Truong hails from a family of restaurateurs, with Asian eateries in southern California, Dallas, Phoenix, Orlando, among other cities. He opened about three months ago, not too long after migrating to West Palm. He fell for the city on a visit to Florida and opened a restaurant here at the suggestion of local Vietnamese food-lovers, clamoring for a real-deal pho spot. Why the “16”? That’s Truong’s favorite number.
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Rocco’s Tacos’ PGA kitchen not on par with Clematis location

By Liz Balmaseda   |  Dining, Restaurant reviews  |  April 26, 2012

Several brands of tequila line the shelves on the window behind the bar at Rocco's Tacos on PGA Boulevard in Palm Beach Gardens. (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

In the vibrant island that is Rocco’s Tacos’ northernmost cantina, on PGA Boulevard, it’s easy to get lost in the ambience. Whimsical artifacts seem to dance on saturated hues, the brick tones and purples and colors one might find in Frida Kahlo’s kitchen.

It’s a gorgeously done space that carries the same rustic feel as Rocco’s original Clematis Street location to a new, more airy plane. And the place spills onto an ample terrace dotted with plenty of tables for alfresco dining.

On this terrace is where I had my first taste of Rocco’s (shortly after its Feb. 1 opening) in the form of a Pama Rita ($11.50), a margarita bolstered by Cazadores Blanco tequila, pomegranate and orange liqueurs and homemade sour mix. It made for nice sipping between tortilla-chip scoops of fresh guacamole ($12), mashed tableside in a volcanic stone molcajete (Mexican mortar and pestle).

And, let’s be real, this is why one comes here: the margarita, the guac, the vibe. These are the things that are consistently decent about Rocco’s PGA. The rest of it has a way to go to match the quality of Rocco’s Clematis.

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Quick bites: Pasta Tuesday, meet Wednesday Winesday

By Liz Balmaseda   |  Feast Palm Beach  |  April 25, 2012

Carlos and Lanie Farias inside their restaurant, Maison Carlos. (Damon Higgins / Palm Beach Post)

Pasta Tuesdays returned this week to Maison Carlos, the popular spot on West Palm’s Antique Row. That means the restaurant’s delicious, abundant pasta dishes (which run up to $20) are just 10 bucks on Tuesdays (dine-in only).

Not to be outdone, Wednesday night boasts its own special at the stylish eatery: it’s Winesday. Bring your own wine and enjoy it with no corkage fee.

Maison Carlos: 3010 S. Dixie Highway; (561) 659-6524; MaisonCarlos.com. | Directions, invite a friend

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Sunday Special: Tapas Lantana serves up Spanish excellence

By Liz Balmaseda   |  Restaurant reviews  |  April 22, 2012

Tabia de queso y chorizo Español at Tapas Lantana. (Brandon Kruse / Palm Beach Post)

The food:
Pretty delicious. The place serves Spanish-inspired tapas, paellas and larger plates, and pours a respectable selection of Spanish wines.

The backstory:
The concept and setting — a lush, open-windowed terrace, easy chatter and lively guitar music — feels like it was plucked out of a sprawling Andalusian estate. In reality, it was plucked from the imagination of Indiantown rancher and developer Greg Flewelling, a restaurant developer who spent a year and three months designing the space for its previous incarnation — the pompous, rudely priced Apicius. Once that restaurant (and the subsequent one) failed, Flewelling and his wife Johnnie and their son Warren decided to give the tapas concept a go. He had tested the concept quite successfully in Stuart, at Tapas Fusion, where chef/partner David Rodriguez created and serves an authentic and tempting menu.
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Water Bar is a grand, newish addition to PGA Commons

By Liz Balmaseda   |  Dining, Restaurant reviews  |  April 19, 2012

One of the main attractions of Water Bar at PGA Commons -- the outdoor seating on the restaurant's patio. (Richard Graulich / Palm Beach Post)

One of the best things about dining at the PGA Commons is you’ve got an abundance of alfresco options. Each restaurant along the string of blocks that comprise Palm Beach Gardens’ popular dining row offers ample space and ambiance.

And one of the best places for this kind of breezy dining experience is the new-ish Water Bar & Grill, sister restaurant to the popular Spoto’s Oyster Bar, just a few doors away.

Water Bar is the more sedate, upscale sister, but like the Oyster Bar, it’s a seafood-driven eatery where the food is fresh and efficiently served. It inhabits the space where owner John Spoto’s Oakwood Grill once stood. Spoto closed the steak house and American grill nearly a year ago, gave the space a dramatic makeover and new seafood-centric identity, and launched the concept five months ago.

The space, done up in a palette of ocean hues, feels like a natural fit for Water Bar, a welcoming restaurant that’s just as suitable for drinks and appetizers as it is for a nice family dinner.

This is where I had one of the freshest, most delicious salads I’ve had in a while. Water Bar’s Heirloom Tomato Salad ($9) is blooming with gorgeous heirlooms (just picked from the Community Church garden across the street), peppery arugula, radicchio and red onion. The salad is so good it renders the squiggle of balsamic glaze unnecessary.

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Lord’s Place chef inspired by veggies from Boynton community garden

By Liz Balmaseda   |  Dining  |  April 18, 2012

Vegetable curry prepared by Chef Robert Coleman in the kitchen of Cafe Joshua. (Lannis Waters / Palm Beach Post)

In his food service career, Robert Coleman has traveled worlds in a few short miles.

A little over a year ago, he was training flight attendants in the fine points of plate presentation aboard the private jets of the wealthy. Today, he trains homeless cooks struggling to support themselves and their families.

But, in the kitchen, these scenarios are not too different from one another. For Coleman, director of food service at The Lord’s Place in West Palm Beach, both center on using fresh ingredients.

That focus is stronger now at Café Joshua, the agency’s training and job-placement program. Fresh-picked vegetables and herbs are coming into the program’s catering kitchen from a newly dedicated urban garden planted at The Lord’s Place men’s campus in Boynton Beach.

On a recent morning, chef Coleman inspected a basket of produce and herbs delivered for that week’s menu. (In addition to providing a range of catering services to the community, the café also feeds daily about 100 agency clients and staff who are on-site for appointments and services.) A diverse mix of herbs, like fragrant chocolate mint, apple mint and purple basil, shared the basket with string beans, peppers and squash.

Such a basket may spark a curry dish, for instance, says Coleman, whose budding interest in Indian cuisine led him to a local spice market where he often seeks culinary tips from the shop owner.

"We got these great bell peppers today, so we’ll be making stuffed peppers tomorrow," says Coleman, a Maryland native.

Or, if that week’s basil crop is particularly bountiful, he may dream up a soup, such as the Italian wedding soup his apprentice chefs recently made using basil instead of spinach.

"How great is that?" says Coleman.

They don’t call it soup at Café Joshua, which is set up as a kind of learning bistro, not a soup-kitchen. "Here, we call it ‘potage,’ " says Coleman.

VEGETABLE CURRY

Chef Robert Coleman, director of food service at The Lord’s Place in West Palm Beach, made this dish using green beans, peppers and herbs from the organization’s community garden.

Serves 4 to 6

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon (Methi) fenugreek seeds

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 tablespoons minced garlic

2 medium onions, thinly sliced

1/4 cup dried curry leaves

1 tablespoon garam masala

1 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 cup tomato paste

2 cups cherry tomatoes

Salt and pepper to taste

5 cups coconut milk

2 cups baby red potatoes, washed and cut in half

2 cups fresh green beans

1 cup vegetable stock

Minced green chilies

Place a skillet over low heat and add the first four ingredients. Toast for 15 seconds, until aromatic, then pulse in a coffee grinder. (Or grind in a mortar and pestle.)

Place a pot over medium heat and add the oil.

When it is hot, add ginger, garlic and onions, and cook until very soft and beginning to brown, about 4 minutes.

Add the curry leaves, garam masala, turmeric and tomato paste and stir well.

Add the toasted spices, tomatoes, salt and pepper, coconut milk, potatoes, green beans and 1 cup stock, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and let simmer until the potatoes are tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. (For brighter, slightly crisp green beans, add 40 to 50 minutes after the other ingredients.)

Add green chilies to taste. (Remove seeds to reduce their heat.)

Garnish dish with a dollop of plain yogurt mixed with cilantro and fresh

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Check out a craft beer festival at Delray’s Old School Square

By Liz Balmaseda   |  Beer, wine and alcohol, Feast Palm Beach  |  April 18, 2012

(AP file photo)

It’ll rain all kinds of craft beer in Delray Saturday when the first BeerFest descends on the Old School Square cultural center. Beer lovers will have plenty of brew to sample — 50 craft beers, including varieties from Funky Buddha Lounge, Cigar City, Magic Hat, Inlet Brewing Company (Monk in the Trunk), Terrapin, Shipyard and Due South Brewing Co.

For the pairing, there’s some serious gastro-truck grub from Latin Burger, Nacho Mama’s Grill, PS-561, Ms. Cheezious, Big Belly’s Deli, Slow Food Truck, Sugar Yummy Mama, The Philly Grill and The Rolling Stove.

Old School BeerFest

When: Saturday, 4 to 8 p.m.

Where: Old School Square, 51 N. Swinton Ave., Delray Beach; (561) 243-7922

How much: Tickets are $30 ($75 VIP) in advance, $40 ($85 VIP) at the gate. VIP ticket-holders have access to designated area with complimentary food, beer, wine, signature cocktails and to a special after-party.

Entertainment: Live music by The Dillengers (rock) and The Resolvers (alternative reggae).

Info: Organizers say this 21-and-over event will take place rain or shine.

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Seeds for souls: A vegetable garden to feed the poor

By Liz Balmaseda   |  Dining  |  April 18, 2012

Barbara and Tim Hadsell in the garden behind the Elks Lodge on Belvedere Road in West Palm Beach. (Taylor Jones / Palm Beach Post)

Heirloom tomatoes are ripening beautifully in Tim Hadsell’s "give back" garden, just weeks after the Greenacres man planted his first crops in the fertile lot behind his local Elks Lodge.

It was a rather neglected patch of land, overgrown with melaleucas and weeds, but in it Hadsell saw great, green possibilities.

Green like the broccoli, lettuce, zucchini and robust heads of lettuce that are now sprouting in the varied patch he planted in February.

Great like the mission these crops serve: to feed the needy at St. George’s Episcopal Church and Community Center in Riviera Beach.

Hadsell, who planted a second, smaller vegetable garden at St. George’s, picks the ripened crops twice a week and takes them over to the center’s soup kitchen. There, kitchen supervisor and cook Donald Smith dices them into salads, simmers them in stews and chops them for veggie sautés thickened with a little roux.

"I use the cabbage for corned beef and cabbage, and whenever he gives me squash or zucchini, I cook them in little foil packets with my own blend of seasonings," says the Bahamian-born cook, who mastered spice combos as a child cooking alongside his mother in Nassau.

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