By Judy Hevrdejs
You love those little squeeze-top plastic bears, golden with honey, lined up stoically on supermarket shelves and at farmers markets across America.
Too bad your relationship with them begins at your teacup and ends with a dollop stirred into Greek yogurt.
Sure, many bears may look as if they hold nothing more than a one-note sweetener. But chat with beekeepers and take a closer look at labels and you’ll find honey flavors as different as the nectars savored by particular bees.
In-the-know chefs even team with local beekeepers to incorporate honey’s range of flavors in their cooking, from buttery avocado notes to mild tupelos and dark buckwheat.
Scotty Schwartz, a sustainably focused chef, had his honey epiphany when Naked Bee Honey Farm beekeepers arrived at 29 South, his restaurant in Fernandina Beach, with blackberry, cherry blossom and chestnut honeys.
"Instead of a condiment, this honey is now as important an ingredient as the protein on the plate," says Schwartz, who often finishes slow-roasted pork shanks with blackberry or chestnut honey before setting it atop polenta.
"It’s like wine. You are going to get terroir," he says. "If you’ve set up hives next to chestnuts, you’re going to get that. If you’re set up next to cherry blossoms, the flavor is going to be totally different."
Which is why tasting and inhaling the aroma of different types is important in deciding how to use a honey in the kitchen.
"I think all honeys are unique. Some are not going to have strong floral qualities, (but) others will," says Polly Lappetito, executive chef at the Culinary Institute of America in Napa Valley, Calif., which held its first educational honey summit for chefs this summer.
It included a tasting of alfalfa, buckwheat, avocado, clover, sage, star thistle, eucalyptus, wildflower and orange blossom honeys.
Lappetito, who has used honey in vinaigrettes, with roasted vegetables and in semifreddos, among other dishes, urges cooks to taste and experiment: "I always think honey adds a softer sweetness to dishes."
Or a little kick: "Take peppercorns and heat it up with the honey," she says. "Let it infuse the honey. It adds a certain spice and heat."
Chef and beekeeper Graham Dodds, who spent childhood summers in Scotland tending hives with his grandfather, drizzles honey on the popular bruschetta tastings at Bolsa restaurant in Dallas.
"I’ll drizzle raw honey over the top to tie it all together," he says. Tastings might include salmon, prosciutto, tomato and goat cheese bruschetta.
Chefs aren’t the only ones intrigued by honey, of course. We each ate about 1.3 pounds of honey last year.
And the National Honey Board’s Bruce Boynton says beekeeping groups around the country report increased interest in beekeeping classes.
Considering that bees in this country have lots of floral sources to check out – the Honey Board says there are more than 300 unique types of honey – cooks have a variety to sample and a wide range of flavors they can incorporate into their cooking.
CHEFS ALL ABUZZ WITH HONEY IDEAS
Valerie Zweig, Founding Farmers restaurant, Washington :
- Slather honey butter on corn.
- Tuck honey butter under the skin of chicken before roasting.
- Make a simple syrup, substituting honey for the sugar. ‘It’s the same 1-to-1 ratio,’ Zweig says. ‘Heat the water, then slowly mix that into the honey.’
Polly Lappetito, the Culinary Institute of America, Napa Valley, Calif.:
- Make a glaze for vegetables with honey butter. ‘We use honey and butter, and cook it down with a bit of stock,’ says Lappetito.
- Flavor honey with black pepper, thyme or truffle oil, then pour a little over cheeses.
Graham Dodds, chef-beekeeper, Bolsa restaurant, Dallas:
- Stir into a homemade chutney.
- Mix a little into your favorite spice-rub recipe to coat roasts before grilling.
- Serve comb honey alongside cheese, especially goat, on a cheese platter.
Honey-Caramelized Peaches with Grouper
Chef Scotty Schwartz of 29 South in Fernandina Beach suggests using a darker honey, such as avocado or wild blackberry, in this recipe.
Serves: 4
4 fresh freestone peaches, halved, pitted
1/2 teaspoon salt
Cracked black pepper
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup honey
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
4 halibut or grouper fillets
4 cups arugula
Season peach halves with 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over high heat.
When oil is shimmering hot, put peaches flesh-side down in oil. Saute until dark and almost charred.
Add honey; toss peaches gently. Honey and oil will form a caramel glaze.
Remove from heat. Sprinkle with rosemary. Drizzle peaches with a little of the glaze.
Meanwhile, season the fish fillets with remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt; heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook fillets, turning once, until opaque and flaky, 5 minutes per side.
Toss arugula with a remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil; divide arugula among 4 plates. Set a fish fillet and caramelized peaches atop each. Drizzle with any remaining glaze.
The creative minds of chefs are buzzing with plenty of uses for honey: