Mike Isabella’s plate of pork-shank ragu with potato gnocchi and whipped burrata had transformed the Top Chef All-Stars judges, those made-for-TV snarks, into sycophants.
The "Ellis Island" challenge had asked the contestants to cook dishes inspired by their ancestry, and as he reflected on that ragu, head judge Tom Colicchio, a New Jersey native like Isabella, beamed like a first-time father, lost in his own nostalgia of red-sauce gravy.
"The last dish I want to eat on Earth is my mother’s gravy before I die," Colicchio told him. "It’s just a very simple dish, but yours was so soulful "
That’s when Isabella – a brash, tattoo-covered Jersey boy – lost it. He put his right hand to his brow, as if to hide his emotions. He looked up, swallowed a time or two and sighed audibly. He then shrugged and cocked his head to the right, a street hustler’s move to try to regain his composure.
"What’s going through your head right now?" host Padma Lakshmi asked.
"I was really close to my grandmother when she passed away. I was younger, so I didn’t understand it," responded Isabella, who learned to cook by her side. "I didn’t cook (Italian food) for pretty much my whole career… because I didn’t want to remind me of that."
Redefining moment
Not to put too fine a point on this, but that moment helped redefine Mike Isabella – not only to viewers who had once seen him as a knuckle-dragging Neanderthal who disrespected women, but also to some of the chefs who competed against him.
It also confirmed that Graffiato, Isabella’s new restaurant here, was headed in the right direction. It would channel not only Isabella’s experiences in chef-driven kitchens such as Alma de Cuba in Philadelphia and Zaytinya in Washington, but also his New Jersey red-sauce past.
For Isabella himself, the moment was a flash of personal acceptance. Isabella wasn’t an aimless teenager anymore, prone to drinking, drugging and petty vandalism. He had become what his maternal grandmother, Antoinette Antonacci, always wanted him to be: respectable.
Joanne Isabella remembers her son as an average student with no interest in college once he graduated from high school. Mike did have, she recalls, a precocious taste for foods that most Jersey preteens would never touch: Korean, Japanese and Greek cuisines, even the pig’s feet that his grandmother used in her slow-simmered red gravy.
Isabella didn’t aspire to become the next Jacques Pepin. "I wanted to travel. I wanted to get a job anywhere in the world," he says. "I knew that (cooking) was one of the outlets that would help me do that."
He put himself through the New York Restaurant School (now the Art Institute of New York City). He worked six nights a week at a restaurant in New Brunswick, N.J. and took the early-morning train to Manhattan five days a week for school. After graduating from restaurant school and kicking around New York kitchens, Isabella joined the staff at Alma de Cuba in Philly, then moved to El Vez (where he worked for future Iron Chef Jose Garces) and to Washington Square.
In 2007, Isabella took the chef job at Jose Andres’ Zaytinya and two years later was tapped to compete on Top Chef: Las Vegas.
Gnocchi: A tribute
Graffiato opened its doors last month. Isabella refuses to call it an Italian restaurant. He has created a hybrid beast, a menu that pulls together his Italian-American past with his experiences in Mediterranean cooking.
But then there’s a dish in the pasta section. It’s roasted potato gnocchi with braised pork-shank ragu and burrata. It’s his ode to Grandma, the very dish that made the bulletproof Colicchio suddenly seem as vulnerable as a child.
"A lot of people had asked me to do that dish," says Isabella, 36. He produced a batch before he opened the restaurant, and came away with one distinct impression: It tasted like Grandma’s red gravy.
Olive-Oil-Poached Cherry Tomato Sauce
Chef Mike Isabella serves this sauce with hand-cut spaghetti and fresh basil.
A glance at the ingredients might cause you to think: That’s a lot of garlic and shallots.
He says they flavor the sauce, which ends up being rich-tasting and almost sweet. But the garlic can be reduced to 1/2 cup.
Makes 5 cups
1 cup olive oil
4 ounces shallots, shaved or cut into very thin slices (1 cup)
Cloves from 1 or 2 heads garlic, shaved or cut into very thin slices (1 cup; see headnote)
4 cups (17 ounces) whole stemmed cherry tomatoes (do not use grape tomatoes; they might not be juicy enough)
2 cups canned plum tomatoes, crushed
8 stems basil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Crushed red pepper flakes
Combine the oil and shallots in a large sauté pan over low heat.
Cook 10 to 12 minutes, until the shallots are translucent and soft, then stir in the garlic until evenly coated. Cook for about 15 minutes or until the garlic has softened, then stir in the cherry tomatoes and the crushed plum tomatoes. Cook for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add the basil.
Partially cover and cook for 1 hour; most or all of the cherry tomatoes should be deflated, and the mixture should be somewhat blended in a rich sauce. Discard the basil.
Season with salt, pepper and crushed red pepper flakes to taste. Serve right away; or cool, cover and refrigerate or freeze.
Make ahead: The sauce can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 3 months.
Recipe from chef Mike Isabella of Graffiato, Washington, D.C.