Try a chef’s take on a weeknight entree. It’s from Steve Mannino, who runs the kitchen at Rustico in Arlington, Va. He’s big on nonfussy food and bold flavors, which is why his recipe is just right for weeknights that feel like fall.
It begins with bone-in, 1-inch-thick chops; the ones he uses are from Duroc pigs raised in Pennsylvania, but as long as the chops you buy are fresh and sweet-smelling and have some fat around the edges, you’re good.
Seared on the stove top and finished in the oven, they stay moist on the inside and can be monitored to a 145 degree-to-150 degree doneness. "Don’t be afraid of a little pink," he says.
Pan juices mixed with mustard, capers, chicken broth and those dill pickle chunks form a piquant sauce you’ll want to slurp every last bit of.
Two skillets will get dinner on the table faster and can be used to make a simultaneous side dish.
The chef recommends serving the pork chops on pan-fried potato cakes, and if you’re comfortable multitasking at the stove, you can put together the cakes while the pork chops are in the oven. (See variation, below.) But store-bought hash browns or a quick turn at mashed potatoes will do, along with dollops of sour cream and applesauce.
Pork Chops with Mustard-Pickle Pan Sauce
Serves: 4, plus leftovers
Preparation: 25 minutes (Note: If you make the potato cakes as well, the entire recipe will take 35 minutes.)
4 bone-in, 1-inch-thick pork chops (9 to 11 ounces each)
2 large pinches kosher salt, plus more as needed
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 large dill pickle spears
About 6 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
1/2 cup fresh apple cider
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard
1 tablespoon capers
6 tablespoons no-salt-added chicken broth
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Heat two medium (9-inch) ovenproof skillets over medium-high heat. Use paper towels to pat the pork chops dry. Season the chops on both sides with a generous pinch or two of salt.
Add a tablespoon of oil to each skillet and swirl to coat the bottoms, then carefully add 2 chops to each skillet, laying them so they land away from you (to redirect the splatter). Cook for 3 minutes, until nicely seared and golden brown on the bottom, then transfer to the oven and cook for about 10 minutes or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the side of each chop registers 145 degrees to 150 degrees. Transfer the chops to a plate, and cover loosely to keep warm. Drain and discard the oil from both skillets, but do not disturb the fond, or browned bits.
(At this point, you’ve got time to make the optional potato cakes; see variation below.)
While the chops are in the oven, cut the dill pickle spears on the diagonal into 1-inch chunks. Finely chop the parsley to yield 2 tablespoons.
Place one now-empty skillet over medium heat. Carefully add the apple cider to deglaze (it will steam up) and use a wooden spatula to dislodge any browned bits from the skillet, then add the butter and stir until it has melted. Whisk in the mustard and cook for 1 minute, then add the capers and broth. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring once or twice, then add the pickles and cook undisturbed for 1 minute; the sauce should thicken slightly. Remove from the heat, and stir in the parsley.
Divide the chops among individual plates. (If you’ve made the two potato cakes, put a half on the plate first, then add a dollop of sour cream and applesauce before placing the chop on top. Spoon equal amounts of sauce over and/or around each chop. Serve hot.
Variation: To make the potato cakes, shred 3 or 4 medium washed, unpeeled russet potatoes (about 9 ounces each) to yield 4 cups; place in a mixing bowl. Add 3 egg yolks, 3 tablespoons of chopped parsley, 3 or 4 tablespoons of thinly sliced (crosswise) scallions and 1 tablespoon of kosher salt; use your hands to combine.
Wipe out the skillet used to cook the pan sauce; place both now-empty skillets over medium-high heat. When they are hot, add 2 tablespoons of canola oil to each one and swirl to coat the bottoms. Once the oil is hot, carefully divide the potato mixture between them, using a spatula to flatten and spread the mixture into a fairly flat cake in each pan. Cook undisturbed for 6 minutes or until browned and crisped on the bottom, then use 2 spatulas to turn over each potato cake. Cook on the second side for 6 minutes, until crisped. Transfer to paper towels to drain briefly, then cut each cake in half to create 4 portions.





