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The Prime burger at The Office in Delray. Photo: Allen Eyestone

The Prime burger at The Office in Delray. Photo: Allen Eyestone

The Spicy Seared Tuna Salad at Surf Sliders in Delray. Photo: Allen Eyestone

The Spicy Seared Tuna Salad at Surf Sliders in Delray. Photo: Allen Eyestone

The already bustling downtown Delray dining scene has just gotten a little livelier.

In recent weeks, two veteran Palm Beach County restaurateurs have opened restaurants along the Atlantic Avenue corridor. And both eateries have the potential to be real winners.

Restaurant Listing:
The Office

First, we’ll start on the western end of downtown: That’s where you’ll find David Manero’s latest offering, simply called The Office (201 E. Atlantic, 561-276-3600, theofficedelray.com). The idea: casual dining in a sophisticated setting — think an elegant home library or “office.” The food: gastropub fare — that is, bar food done with a degree of culinary savvy.

When you learn that Manero has recruited prominent South Florida chef Mark Militello (formerly of Mark’s Mizner Park and Mark’s CityPlace) to guide things in the kitchen, it’s clear that he’s aiming high. The menu is seemingly built around common items, but everything is reinterpreted in a bold new way. The hamburger is a Prime CEO Burger ($15), made with prime beef and accompanied by a sweet onion and tomato confit, two types of cheese, arugula and bacon. The popcorn (yes, popcorn is on the menu) is an heirloom variety ($8), flavored with black truffles and sea salt. Oh, and how about a plate of pork and beans ($13) — only in this case, it’s Niman Ranch pork belly and barbecue-baked butter beans?

“I really wanted to bring the market a new concept that has a lot of legs and is very approachable to the general public,” says Manero, who’s opened the hugely successful Vic & Angelo’s Italian restaurants in downtown Delray and Palm Beach Gardens. (By the way, the same top-notch interior designer is behind both The Office and Vic & Angelo’s — namely, Manero’s wife Lynn.)

That creative-but-approachable mindset applies to the beer menu, too. After all, you can’t get much more approachable in the beverage department than beer. But Manero really ups the offerings: The Office has more than 25 varieties on tap, ranging from Rogue Shakespeare Stout (from Oregon) to Chimay Grand Reserve (from Belgium). Bottled beers and handcrafted cocktails are also part of the mix.

But where The Office tops even the beer-geek places around town (say, The Yard House) is that it also has an outstanding wine list, whether you’re in the mood for a $10 glass of riesling from Washington state or a $2,500 bottle of California’s revered Screaming Eagle cabernet.

Restaurant Listing: Jim Taube’s Surf Sliders

And the other big newcomer on Atlantic? It’s all the way on the eastern side of the avenue — right opposite the Atlantic Ocean, in fact. We’re talking Jim Taube’s Surf Sliders (6 S. Ocean Blvd., 561-276-2227).

Taube has been behind some of the area’s best seafood-oriented and island-inspired restaurants — most notably, Jetty’s in Jupiter, Kee Grill in Juno Beach and Boca Raton, Cool’a Fishbar in Palm Beach Gardens and Bimini Twist near Royal Palm Beach. But at Surf Sliders he’s going more in a beach-y direction. The location, says Taube, naturally lends itself to simple (but quality) bites: Taube is doing a prime burger, too (for $9.95). He’s also doing an array of fish sandwiches ($13.95 to $15.95) and salads, including ones with mahi mahi, tuna and fresh grouper (none of that frozen stuff you’ll find in cheaper places). And there’s an extended happy hour (from 3 to 7 p.m.) with drink specials.

And the dress code? Beyond casual, insists Taube. “Tank tops and flip flips are welcome,” he says.


Café Boulud shares its strength

One of the highlight’s of last year’s dining calendar was the Share Our Strength benefit at Café Boulud (at The Brazilian Court, 301 Australian Ave., 561-655-6060; danielnyc.com), which featured a rare gathering of all the chefs from Daniel Boulud’s growing restaurant empire in the United States. Each chef took a turn with a course — and the result was an evening-long feast to end all feasts.

But as it turns out, the night’s two true stars were from Café Boulud itself: head chef Zach Bell and pastry chef Matthew Petersen, each of whom contributed some of the evening’s best dishes. Fortunately, Bell and Petersen will be at the helm of this year’s Café Boulud Share Our Strength dinner, set for Jan. 28.
And while the other Boulud chefs may not be in attendance, some big names will. Look for South Florida sensation Michelle Bernstein (most recently of Michelle Bernstein’s at The Omphoy), John Currence of City Grocery in Oxford, Miss., and Sean Brock of McCrady’s in Charleston, S.C. Even the event’s chair, Victory Amory, is a noted epicurean on the Palm Beach scene.

Tickets for the event (which also includes a silent auction) are $300, with the proceeds helping to end childhood hunger. For reservations and info, call Denise Mariani at (561) 366-4462 or go to strength.org/atp_palmbeach.

The Four Seasons' Restaurant's newest menu selections are courtesy of chef Daryl Moiles. (Brandon Kruse / The Post)

The Four Seasons' Restaurant's newest menu selections are courtesy of chef Daryl Moiles. (Brandon Kruse / The Post)

Change is coming to Palm Beach’s Big Three.

I’m referring to the restaurants on the island’s three major resorts: The Breakers, The Ritz-Carlton and Four Seasons Palm Beach. In keeping with the trend toward lower prices (yes, even Palm Beachers are feeling the pinch) or the trend toward more eclectic or casual dining, each hotel has tweaked its culinary formula in recent months.

‘Uncomplicated good food’

The Four Seasons (2800 S. Ocean Blvd., 561-582-2800, fourseasons.com) is perhaps making the most dramatic changes. At one time, the resort’s main eatery — simply called The Restaurant — was Palm Beach County’s premier destination for high-end dining, famous for a tropical-gone-gourmet approach in a very formal setting.

Now, the resort has redesigned the dining room, letting in more natural light and opening an adjoining outdoor lounge. It also has lightened up the menu — taste and price-wise. Think more Atlantic seafood and more entrées in the $20-30 range (a dish of sea scallops goes for $21); a four-course tasting menu runs $60.

Among the menu’s newest sensations, courtesy of chef Daryl Moiles, is a dish of prosciutto-wrapped halibut with roasted beets. (By the way, Moiles continues the restaurant’s tradition of having an in-house organic herb garden.)

As for the resort’s more casual restaurant, the Ocean Bistro, the focus is on “uncomplicated good food,” says Four Seasons General Manager Kathleen Horrigan. That translates to such dishes as meat loaf and fried chicken.

And the resort’s Bar and Lounge is putting an emphasis on serious mixology, as in cocktails crafted with native nectars and herbs. We’re tempted to stop by for the signature Herb Garden Mojito.

Ritz-Carlton stressing value

Similarly, at The Ritz-Carlton (100 S. Ocean Blvd., Manalapan, 561-533-6000, ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/palmbeach), there’s a move to put a higher value on, well, value.

The resort is no longer making use of its formal dining room (called Angle), but is instead repositioning its indoor/outdoor casual restaurant, Temple Orange, as a destination for Italian comfort food.

That translates into house-made pastas and risottos and thin-crust flat breads, all courtesy of chef Ryan Artim. Prices are kept relatively in check — pastas start at $16, entrées at $21. And if you step outdoors, you’ll even find telescopes to help you with your star-gazing.

The resort is also rebranding its even more casual Breeze oceanfront eatery — it’s now billed as a “burger bistro,” serving gourmet burgers (plus sandwiches and salads). Plus, The Ritz is still going strong with its Stir bar, which emphasizes specialty cocktails.

French fare, contemporary approach

Finally, The Breakers (1 S. County Road, 561-655-6611, thebreakers.com), with the largest number of restaurants of any Palm Beach resort (including ones outside the main property), is making some big changes, too. Topping them all is a new concept for the resort’s signature restaurant, L’Escalier. The Breakers is no longer splitting the restaurant into two entities — formal and brasserie-style; instead, it’s one eatery — and a very creative one at that.

Chef Greg Vassos, who trained under culinary giant Eric Ripert (of Le Bernadin), has put an emphasis on French fare done with a striking, contemporary approach. That can mean a foie gras “brûlée” or a duck l’orange “roulade.” Tasting menus start at $90 (with a $50 wine pairing) — in other words, serious food at serious prices.

At the same time, The Breakers is offering savings at some of its other restaurants: The Flagler Steakhouse has a three-course dinner for $49 and a new three-course Sunday brunch for $35. The family-friendly Italian Restaurant has a three-course dinner for $35. And the deservedly beloved Seafood Bar has a new late-night happy hour (11 p.m. to 1:30 a.m.) with half-off specials on well drinks, house wine and beer.

CHOWDER ON SALE

Cold times call for hot soup. So it’s no surprise that January is National Soup Month. In recognition of that fact, Legal Sea Foods, situated at Boca Raton’s Town Center mall (6000 Glades Road, 561-447-2112, legalseafoods.com), is offering its famous New England clam chowder for 60 cents a cup (with purchase of an entrée) on Jan. 20. Why 60 cents? The date also happens to be the Legal chain’s 60th birthday.

THE WEEKLY NOSH: Carved meats at The Carving Station

You have to know a restaurant that calls itself the Carving Station would serve a nice roast or two. And that’s very much the case at this Lake Park favorite (720 U.S. 1, 561-842-7791, carvingstation buffet.com).

It’s been at least a year since my last visit to the buffet-style restaurant, which I named Best Dining Value in my 2007 Hungries awards. And I forgot what a true value it is — just $9.59 at dinner for the all-you-can-eat spread (drinks and dessert not included).

But key to the spread are those carved meats — we’re talking roast turkey straight off the bird, roast beef in all its juicy glory and more. When I came for dinner, they were carving the most perfect roasted pork loin — a Sunday special. And all this comes with terrific sides (love the stuffing and the spaghetti and meatballs) and a decent salad bar.

Needless to say, I won’t wait another year for my next visit.




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