This sauce is so simple that it has become a tried and true standby for me – and it’s always a hit. Maple syrup, brown sugar and mustard blend with the pan juices to make a succulent sauce for the sauteed pork chops.

The sauce is great with pork, ham, turkey or chicken. Warm it on its own and serve with any of these cooked meats or use it as a dipping sauce. It can be served hot or at room temperature.

You can use any type of pork chop. I find boneless, butterflied pork chops have less fat and cook faster than bone-in chops. They need to be watched carefully, or they will dry out while cooking.

The secret is to sear them outside and then lower the heat and cook a few minutes more. Pork is ready when a meat thermometer hits 160 degrees.

Red or fingerling potatoes can be used in this recipe instead of yellow potatoes. Broccoli can be used instead of Brussels sprouts.

Start with the potatoes and Brussels sprouts. Then, while the potatoes cook, make the pork chops.

Vermont Pork Chops

Serves: 2

2 tablespoons maple syrup

2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

Vegetable oil spray

2 6-ounce boneless, butterflied pork chops

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mix maple syrup, brown sugar and mustard together and set aside. Remove visible fat from pork. Heat a small nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Spray with vegetable oil spray. Brown pork 2 minutes, turn and salt and pepper the cooked side. Brown second side 2 minutes. Lower heat to medium, cover with a lid and cook 2 minutes or until the pork is cooked through.

A meat thermometer should read 160°. Remove to a plate. Add sauce to skillet and heat several seconds, scraping up any brown bits in the skillet. Serve pork with sauce spooned on top.

Per serving: 343 calories, 8.4 g fat, 120 mg cholesterol, 38.1 g protein, 28.2 g carbohydrates, 0.5 g fiber, 273 mg sodium

However, I do not want to use wine. What can I use instead that would approximate the result? – A Greenacres reader

Answer: There can be many reasons why one would not want to use wine, an important one being religious restrictions, which is true in my own case. Alcohol is forbidden for Muslims, although there are claims that cooking on the relatively high heat used for the sauce reduction causes most of the alcohol to evaporate. Much of it remains, however, and practicing Muslims eschew its use even in cooking. There can, of course, be medical reasons also.

In any case, There are some viable alternatives. The results may not be exactly the same, but they won’t be too different. It is the caramelized residue sticking to the pan – which is known in French as fond (pronounced fahn) – that gives the sauce its real flavor after the bits have been deglazed with some liquid. And this flavor comes not only from the caramelized bits of meat or poultry but also from the herbs and spices that were used to coat it.

The deglazing liquid really plays the second fiddle. Wine is often used because it not only adds its own flavor but in all likelihood the same wine will be served alongside, carrying the same note . If wine is not your cup of tea, here are some substitutes:

• A flavorful broth – beef broth for a meat dish or chicken broth for a chicken recipe. It can be homemade, made from the beef trimmings or chicken bones. Or it can be canned; our favorite is Swanson’s.
• Water, with a dash of the same herbs and spices that were used for the meat or poultry. Add a pat of butter, or cream, to lend some complexity and body.
• Fruit juices – apple, orange and especially grape juice, which is what wine is made out of. I would add a tablespoon or two of balsamic vinegar to add a bit of bite. Lime or lemon ju ice will work too.

Whichever one you choose – perhaps a combination – thorough scraping of the fond and then reduction of the added liquid will help concentrate the flavor and thicken the resultant sauce. In case you need to thicken it further, use arrowroot or cornstarch.

Q. I have two questions for you: Can you use fish other than cod to make fish cakes? Also, can you use potato flakes or another potato product in place of fresh potatoes? – Estelle F., Delray Beach

A. The short answer is yes to both. Not to speak of the celebrated crab cake, which you may not count as fish, there are a number of other firm fishes that yield very good cakes, among then tuna, salmon, halibut, sea bass, etc.

In fact, cakes can be fashioned out of almost any seafood, including shrimp and lobster, and of course crab .

We serve fish cakes made out of the convenient canned tuna very often. For any fish cake you need something to hold it together, in addition to eggs. I prefer microwaved potatoes, but bread crumbs or even flour can be used. Coating the formed cakes with flour helps hold the shape and develop a crust when sauteed.

For your second query, I would opt for fresh potatoes for most uses, including mashed, but potato flakes and potato flour come in handy for many recipes.

For instance, in the fish cake recipe either the flakes or the potato flour will work admirably. They are often used for thickening sauces and gravies as well. And they can be kept in your pantry for times when you don’t have fresh ones.

NOTES FROM OUR KITCHEN: BREWING TEA

We are tea drinkers. And if you like a full-flavored brew, as we do, tea bags are not a good option. Loose leaves are your cup o’ tea; but cleanup afterward can be a chore .

This $10 clear plastic-stainless steel teapot has a large and deep wire-mesh insert that allows for perfect brewing.

For cleanup, you just pull out the wire cup and dump the spent leaves.

Chef Aaron Sanchez calls pozole, a hearty Mexican soup, 'table-slapping good'. (Photo by Michael Harlan Turnbull/Courtesy of Atria)

Aarón Sánchez, chef, restaurateur, author, Food Network star and human heat-seeking missile, knows his pozole.

He can go on about the qualities of the long-simmering stew, how it finds its richness in pork and hominy, chiles and Mexican oregano, the kind that grew wild in his family’s ranch in northern Mexico. Pozole is soul food.

“It’s our Vietnamese pho. It’s coddled and taken care of. If there’s one word to describe it, it’s ‘nourishment,’” Sánchez, co-star of the Food Network’s Heat Seekers and Chopped, says by phone.

But it’s also party food, best served community-style, alongside small dishes filled with cool, crunchy and vibrant toppings. The steaming hot soup, swimming with pork chunks and hominy puffs, is topped with contrasting garnishes like crisp radish slices, raw, diced onion, fried corn tortilla strips, a pinch of dried oregano and a squeeze of lime.

“I have a lot of fun with it. I put pickled red onions in mine,” says Sánchez, 36, who comes to South Florida later this month for several appearances during the South Beach Wine & Food Festival. “I love the briny-ness of the onions with the richness of the pozole.”

It makes one satisfying dish that’s perfect Super Bowl half-time feasting.

Not only does it save you the work of creating a multi-dish buffet, it pairs terrifically with cold beer.
As for Sánchez, he’ll do his Super Bowl cooking in Indianapolis — at the Super Bowl. As a spokes-chef for Bud Light, he’ll be grilling Mexican-style carne asada at a tailgate bash.

Who does he like to win? The Giants, of course. The El Paso-born chef, who owns Céntrico restaurant in Manhattan, has called New York home since he was about 8.

POZOLE ROJO
“I think my nose is outfitted with pozole GPS,” writes Aarón Sánchez in his book, Simple Food, Big Flavor. “Anytime I’m in Mexico and hunger strikes, I can sniff out a great bowl whether I know the neighborhood or not. Compulsively slurpable, this hearty soup starts out delicious — an aromatic chile-spiked broth floating with hominy — and after you’re done topping it with chopped onions, herbs, and crunchy fried tortilla strips, it’s table-slapping good.”

Serves: 8
One 6-pound boneless pork butt
1 quart chicken stock (low-sodium
store-bought is fine)
1 head garlic, separated
into cloves and peeled
Salt
1 teaspoon dried whole oregano
(preferably Mexican), crumbled
2 1/2 cups Chile Colorado Sauce
(see recipe at right)
Three 15-ounce cans white
hominy, drained

FOR THE GARNISH:
Vegetable oil, for frying
8 corn tortillas, cut into thin strips
Finely chopped white onion
Thinly sliced radishes
Lime wedges
Dried whole oregano (preferably Mexican), crumbled

Put the pork in a large heavy stockpot or Dutch oven. Add 3 quarts water, the stock, garlic, and 1 teaspoon salt and bring to boil.
Skim off and discard any foam that rises to the surface. Stir in the oregano, reduce the heat, and simmer gently, uncovered, until the pork is tender, about 3 hours.
Lift the pork out of the broth onto a cutting board. Shred the pork with two forks and return it to the broth along with the Chile Colorado Sauce and hominy and another teaspoon of salt.
Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes.
While the pozole cooks, line a baking sheet with paper towels. Pour 1 / 2 inch of vegetable oil into a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the surface shimmers but the oil is not smoking (if it is, reduce the heat!), fry the tortilla strips in batches — so you don’t crowd the skillet — just until they’re golden brown, about 3 minutes per batch. Transfer them to the paper towels to drain and sprinkle them very lightly with salt while they’re still hot.
Serve bowls of pozole with the tortilla strips and bowls of onion, radish slices, lime wedges, and oregano and let your guests garnish their own servings.

EASY PARTY POZOLE
My friend Karen Branch-Brioso, who adapted this recipe from a cookbook set published decades ago by Mexico’s Social Security Institute, serves this stew alongside an array of cool, crunchy toppings — and lots of lime.

1 onion, chopped
1 head of garlic, cloves separated, peeled and chopped
6 cups of white hominy (canned)
A rack of pork spareribs (SEE NOTE)
2 dried guajillo chiles
2 bay leaves

In a large stock pot, bring to a boil 20 cups of water, onion and garlic, meat and hominy. Reduce heat and simmer until the spareribs are fall-off-the-bone tender, about 1 hour.
While the stew is simmering, prepare the chiles:
Remove veins from the chiles. Soak them in warm water to reconstitute them. Then grind them (in a blender or food processor).
Remove meat and shred or slice.
Return meat to pot. Add the blended chiles and bay leaves and continue to cook the stew on low heat until all the flavors have melded.

FOR THE GARNISHES
While the pozole is cooking, you can prepare the following complements and place them in serving dishes:
Shredded lettuce (iceberg is fine)
Radishes, thinly sliced
White onion, diced
6 limes (cut into fourths or eighths)
Dried oregano
Ground chili pepper

NOTE: If you’d like a heartier, meaty stew, you can use more meat than listed in this recipe. And if you’re adventurous, says Branch-Brioso, you can use the meats called for in the original Mexican recipe: 6 pieces of hog’s head, 6 pieces of pig knuckles and 3 pigs’ feet, cut into pieces. She prefers to use spareribs because the bones and fatty meat provides a lot of flavor for the pozole broth.

CHILE COLORADO SAUCE
“It’s a beautiful thing,” writes Sánchez about this base sauce, “A little tangy from the tomatillos, a touch sweet from the tomatoes and onions, and packed with flavor (not heat) from the ancho and guajillo chiles. And making it fills your kitchen with the same awesome smells I was blessed to experience growing up.”

Makes: 2 quarts
3 medium Spanish or white
onions, quartered
8 medium fresh tomatillos,
husked and washed
4 plum tomatoes, cored
and quartered
8 whole garlic cloves, peeled
Olive oil, for drizzling
1 ancho chile (1/2 ounce), stemmed, seeded, and
deveined
1 quart chicken stock (low-sodium store-bought is fine)
Salt and freshly ground
black pepper

Preheat the broiler.
Put the onions, tomatillos, tomatoes and garlic on a baking sheet and drizzle them with olive oil. Put the baking sheet under the broiler and cook without turning until the vegetables start to get charred, about 7 minutes. Remove, set aside, and let cool to room temperature.
In a large dry skillet over medium-low heat, toast the guajillos, turning them over halfway through, just until they smell great, about 1 minute. Transfer them to a bowl, cover them with hot water, and let them soak until they’re soft, about 30 minutes. Drain the chiles and discard the soaking water.
Combine the vegetables and chiles in a blender with the chicken stock (you’ll have to work in batches) and puree until the mixture is very smooth. Transfer each batch to a bowl and it’s done, and stir the batches together well. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Store it in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week or in the freezer for up to a month.

CHEF SÁNCHEZ’S TIPS
Simple ways to use this sauce:
“Let pork, chicken, or beef hang out in it for a few hours, throw the meat on the grill and you’re a happy camper,” writes Sánchez in his book.
“Thin it with some chicken stock and you have a killer base for soup or the liquid for some truly amazing braising — think pork butt, belly, ribs, tongue.”

A TIP ON DRIED CHILES
“Look for the freshest dried chiles you can get your hands on — just because they’re dried doesn’t mean they last forever,” writes Sánchez. “They should have temps and be soft enough that you can bend them in half without breaking them. When you find good ones, buy a lot and store them in an airtight jar or bag in a cool, dark place. They’ll keep for months.”

Recipes and tips from “Simple Food, Big Flavor,” by Aarón Sánchez (Atria Books)

When you select the right ingredients, it doesn’t take many of them to create a fantastic dinner. Nor much time.

The trick is to pick ingredients with tons of flavor, then let them do the heavy lifting for you. I usually start with a main ingredient that is basically agreeable to any flavor. Chicken, pasta, pork tenderloin, potatoes – all great choices.

Next, pick a few pantry staples that pack gobs of flavor. Cheeses, cured meats, hot peppers, and just about any sauce or seasoning you care to pick up in your grocer’s international aisle.

This recipe for spicy sausage and arugula penne is a great example of this approach. I boil up some pasta, then toss it with browned peppery sausage, deliciously bitter baby arugula, some savory sun-dried tomatoes and grated Parmesan. The result is amazing.

And of course, the recipe is incredibly versatile. No sausage? Used ground beef, pork or turkey. Don’t care for sun-dried tomatoes? Use roasted red peppers. Parmesan not your style? An aged gouda or crumbled feta would be delicious, too. And baby spinach or broccoli would easily stand in for the arugula.

Have it your way. Just be sure to have it with lots of flavor.

Spicy Sausage and Arugula Penne

Serves: 6

12 ounces penne pasta

1 pound spicy Italian sausage meat

1 large yellow onion, diced

1/2 cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, chopped

5-ounce package arugula

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Salt and ground black pepper

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente according to package directions. Reserve 1/4 cup of the cooking water, then drain and set aside.

In a large saute pan over medium-high, brown the sausage meat and onion until cooked through, about 10 minutes. As it cooks, use a wooden spoon to break up the meat into bite-size chunks. Add the sun-dried tomatoes and arugula, then toss well. Add the pasta and toss until heated through and the arugula just begins to wilt.

Add half of the cheese and a splash of the reserved pasta cooking water. Toss well, adding more water if desired to create a sauce. Serve topped with the remaining cheese.

Per serving: 490 calories; 22 g fat; 70 mg cholesterol; 47 g carbohydrates; 28 g protein; 3 g fiber; 750 mg sodium

More than a third of all Americans will be tuning in on Feb. 5, and the vast majority will be watching at home with family and friends – and with foods galore, mostly of the snacking kind.

In keeping with the event’s growing international appeal, why not include an Indian snack item, the samosas, which are daily winning the hearts of everyday Americans.

It is a deep-fried triangular turnover, and the thin, crispy wrap can enclose many things from meat and poultry to a variety of vegetables, even cheese or sweet fillings.

Here is the recipe for a simple potatoes-and-peas filling that has consistently found favor with my American friends.

Traditionally, the dough is homemade, but the widely available frozen empanada discs work admirably well as the wrapper. This simplified filling works well for everyone.

Vegetable Samosas

Makes 6 to 8 servings

1 10-disc package frozen empanada dough

FOR THE FILLING:

3 medium potatoes

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds

1 medium onion thinly sliced

2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 cup frozen peas, thawed

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

2 to 3 grinds fresh black pepper

Take out the empanada dough; thaw according to package directions. Meanwhile, microwave potatoes until three-fourths cooked. Peel and dice into large pieces; set aside. Heat oil in a skillet and fry cumin seeds until fragrant. Add onion slices and saute, stirring, until lightly browned. Add garlic and pepper flakes; saute 30 seconds more.

Add the peas and salt and pepper and saute for a minute or so until peas are partly cooked. Add the diced potatoes in batches, mixing in gently with the rest, without quite mashing the potatoes. Saute for a minute or two, turning with a nylon spatula until the filling is thoroughly heated. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

Separate one disc from pack; keep the rest under a damp towel. Roll the disc to stretch about half inch on all sides. Cut it into 2 half moons.

Now comes the tricky part: Pick up 1 semicircle and using both hands, twirl it into a cone, with the middle of the straight side forming the sharp point. There will be a bit of an overlap as one side goes around the other. Press the overlap slightly to seal.

Fill the cone with a tablespoon or so of the potato filling, so it is reasonably full but there is enough room at top for the edges to be sealed. My wife, Kaisari, seals the top with a braided rope design, which looks easy, but try to do it and you will learn that it takes quite some learning, preferably at the feet of your mother while still a child. So, just press the edges between your finger and crimp with a fork.

Once all of them are done and that will be 20 cones, deep-fat fry until just a shade darker than golden brown. If you aren’t up to even making the cones, place the filling on one side of the disc, bring the other side over and seal. You will then get 10 half-moons. Serve them, either way, while still hot, with a dipping sauce, which can be just bottled red pepper sauce. Or make a cocktail: 6 tablespoons ketchup, 2 to 3 teaspoons red pepper sauce and 2 to 3 teaspoons A1 steak sauce.

Recipe by Gholam Rahman.

Chef Christopher Slawson juices carrots at his restaurant, Christopher's Kitchen, in Palm Beach Gardens. (Brandon Kruse / Palm Beach Post)

Although we’re just three and a half weeks into the year, the most avid juicers among us are working their way through their fourth bunch of kale, third bag of carrots, second sack of apples and an untold amount of organic herbs, ginger and berries.

If you’re not a juicer yourself, surely you know one – that health-seeking friend who’s on a cleanse, or on an energy-boosting mission, or an antioxidant spree, or all the above. Their green juice photos on Facebook may not make you drool the way, say, dulce de leche-filled crepes make you drool. But, admit it, you’re a tad intrigued by that green juice and its professed superpowers.

I was intrigued enough to pay a visit to Christopher Slawson, chef and juice magician, at Christopher’s Kitchen, the stylish Palm Beach Gardens café where he serves organic, plant-based foods. His juices and power smoothies are wildly popular.

Perhaps that’s because Slawson knows making a good juice requires more than tossing a bunch of greens in the blender. It requires an artful pairing of flavor notes – like the zing of lemon with the sweetness of beets, the warmth of ginger with the refreshing qualities of cucumbers.

It also requires technique, as some ingredients should be extracted in a juicer and others should be whirred in a blender. Some of the best juices he makes are a combination of extracted and blended ingredients.

His Sweet Green smoothie, for instance, is a milkshake-thick drink made with the extracted juices of kale, cilantro, parsley, ginger and cucumber all blended with pineapple, mango and a drizzle of raw honey. The vibrant smoothie is topped with a scattering of tart, chewy goji berries. It’s a sublime combo – sweet, tart and grassy all at once – that sells (quite well) for a hefty $13.95.

Slawson uses the same juice-and-blend technique on his Antioxidant Rush smoothie, blending mango and blueberries with the juice of carrots, beets and lemon.

His best-selling juice, a detox combo known as the Maui, skips the blender. He simply extracts the juice of cucumbers, celery, parsley, kale, lemon, apple and ginger. It pours like a vibrant iced green tea, but it hums with multiple flavor notes. It’s the chef’s go-to breakfast.

“I start my day off with a fresh juice, like the Maui, or a protein shake,” says Slawson. “The great thing about doing this kind of liquid breakfast is that it gives your digestive system a rest while providing a punch of nutrients.”

Dr. Ken Grey, a holistic physician and acupuncturist on the staff of Jupiter Medical, echoes Slawson’s appreciation for juicing beyond January.

“The premise of juicing is that you’re helping nutrients go to the bloodstream without activating too much of the stomach or the digestive system – you’re giving the body a break somewhat,” says Grey, who routinely prescribes juice combos for his patients.

He advises, however, to add a “warming” ingredient such as ginger to maximize the absorption of nutrients.

“I always add ginger for the warming benefits. It helps your body assimilate the nutrients and transport them to where they need to go,” says Grey, who explains that purely cold ingredients could tax and weaken the spleen.

Grey’s favorite juice base is a blend of carrots, beets and ginger. “That’s my triumvirate. I build from there, adding kale or apple, or cucumbers,” he says.

He adds cucumbers to help leech toxins and hydrate skin. For energy, he adds a nutritional green powder (he likes “Super Sprouts” by Harmonic Innerprizes).

Grey cautions against more traditional, dairy-based smoothies.

“They become a sugar and dairy fest,” he says. “Your digestion gets taxed. You feel sluggish and bloated.”

A word about the kitchen gadgets one may or may not need for these healthy liquefying endeavors: juicers and blenders perform two very different functions.

Ideally, says Slawson, you should have both a juicer and a blender, so you can extract the juice from high-nutrient greens but also have the ability to create thicker drinks.

If he had to choose one or the other, Grey says he’d opt for a good juicer any day of the week. Nutritionally speaking, he says, it yields more powerful benefits.

CHRISTOPHER’S KITCHEN’S ‘ANTIOXIDANT RUSH’ SMOOTHIE

Makes: 1 large smoothie

4 to 5 carrots

1 beet

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1 cup mango

1 cup blueberries

In a juicer, juice the carrots and beet. To that juice, stir in lemon juice.

In a blender, add the veggie-lemon juices, mango and blueberries. Blend until the smoothie is the consistency of a thick shake. Pour and enjoy.

CHRISTOPHER’S KITCHEN’S ‘MAUI’ JUICE

Makes: 1 large juice

2 stalks celery

1 cucumber

1/2 lemon

1 small Gala apple

1 small piece ginger, or to taste

1 handful parsley

2 leaves kale

In a juicer, juice all ingredients.

Stir and enjoy.

CHRISTOPHER’S KITCHEN’S ‘SWEET GREEN’ SMOOTHIE

Makes: 1 large smoothie

2 cucumbers

2 leaves kale

1 handful cilantro

1 handful parsley

Pinch fresh ginger

Juice of 1/2 lime

1/2 cup pineapple

1/2 cup mango

Raw honey, to taste

Goji berries, for topping

In a juicer, juice the cucumbers, kale, cilantro, parsley and ginger. To that juice, stir in lime juice.

In a blender, add the veggie-lime juices, pineapple, mango and honey. Blend until the smoothie is the consistency of a thick shake.

Top with goji berries. Enjoy!

All recipes by Christopher Slawson of Christopher’s Kitchen, 4783 PGA Blvd., Palm Beach Gardens; (561) 318-6191; christopherskitchenfl.com | Directions, invite a friend

A tempting treasure trove of Mother Earth’s most precious jewels, crisp colorful veggies lightly sautéed in a gingery glaze, this traditional vegetarian dish was used for self-purification during the first five days of the Chinese New Year. (Fast forward to 2012: Chinese New Year will be celebrated on Monday.)

After the holiday binge (and bulge) of all things cookies and cocktails, a bit of nutritional mindfulness will restore sanity, serenity – and the Buddha’s signature smile.

Follow our recipe, or purify your post-holiday fridge as well, tossing in leftover bits of this or that.

Serve with nutty, whole-grain brown rice or noodles, a spoonful or two of chili garlic paste for heat, and, of course, chopsticks.

Divas’ Delight

Serves 2 amply as an entrée; 4 to 6 as side dish

FOR THE SAUCE:

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon sriracha, optional

3 tablespoons ginger paste

1/3 cup reduced sodium soy sauce

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon rice vinegar (may substitute white vinegar)

4 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced

FOR THE STIR FRY:

Vegetable oil for stir frying

3 broccoli crowns, florets separated

2 large carrots, peeled and thinly sliced

10-12 shitake mushrooms, sliced

1 large red bell pepper, seeded and chopped

1 cup sugar snap or green beans, trimmed

1 large sweet onion, roughly chopped

1 bunch scallions, green and white parts, sliced

Toasted sesame seeds, to garnish

In a small bowl, whisk together the honey, sriracha (if using), ginger paste, soy sauce, sesame oil, vinegar and garlic; set aside.

Heat a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat. (If you don’t have a large skillet, cook veggies in batches, dividing sauce accordingly.)

When pan is hot, coat bottom with vegetable oil. Add broccoli and carrots and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Drizzle in 2 tablespoons water and cover to steam for 2 minutes more.

Add mushrooms, bell pepper, beans and onion; stir-fry for 1 minute, then cover and steam for 2 or 3 minutes more, adding more water if necessary.

Pour in sauce, add scallions and continue to stir-fry until veggies are coated and sauce begins to thicken slightly, about 2 minutes.

Garnish with toasted sesame seeds and serve hot. For more tender veggies, remove the pan from heat, cover, and allow to steam until desired doneness.

DIVA CONFESSIONS

For do-ahead entertaining with ease, prepare veggies ahead, blanching in boiling water for a minute or two.

Start with broccoli and carrots, removing after 1 or 2 minutes and place in an ice water bath. Blanch bell pepper and sugar snaps for 30 seconds to 1 minute, then place in ice bath.

Drain and refrigerate veggies until ready to sauté just before serving. Mix sauce, heat pan and add oil for a quick sauté, adding mushrooms and onions with blanched veggies.

Toss in sauce until nicely coated and sauce is slightly thickened.

Pratt & Whitney's 'After Burn' chili. (Brandon Kruse / Palm Beach Post)

So what’s the deal with firefighters and chili? The two seem to just go together, be it at the firehouse or at weekend charity cook-offs.

How did this bond begin, I wondered? Was it a culinary time-killer for a job which often has long periods between calls? Was it a fascination with varying degrees of heat comparable to what is faced on the job?

I did some digging and, while, I may not have found the definitive answer, I picked up a little chili trivia.

The spicy stew has been an American staple as far back as the frontier days. But in the early 1960s, a Texas newspaper man named Wick Fowler invented “Two Alarm Chili,” borrowing the common fire station term in the naming process. Wick also began the cultural phenomenon of chili cook-offs in 1967 when he challenged a fellow journalist to a chili-making duel.

If that’s not a smoking jalapeño of a historical connection (to chili and firefighters), I don’t know what is.
A couple of months ago, firefighters from across our area continued this tradition at a friendly — but fiercely competitive — chili cook-off and beer tasting, hosted by the Tequesta Fire Fighters and Tequesta Brewing Company.

As your Beer Guy, I felt it my duty to attend to make sure both the chili and craft beer lived up to my strict quality standards. After extensive sampling, I concluded they did. And I was not alone. Our group of celebrity judges voted overwhelmingly to award the trophy to the firefighters from the Pratt & Whitney Rocketdyne Fire-Rescue station in Jupiter.

Why? For me, the chili, which had both ground beef and cubes of beef alongside red kidney beans, had a pleasant but not overwhelming heat. And there was something in the flavor that elevated it to another level from the other chilis we sampled. I couldn’t put my finger on what it was, but later I found out it was coffee, ginger beer and Mexican chocolate.

I also came away with a bit of a coup — the recipes of the top two teams. But before diving into that, how about we get to know our local firefighters a little bit better?

Lt. Ivo White of Pratt & Whitney Rocketdyne Fire-Rescue is the mastermind behind the winning chili at the Tequesta Brewing Company's cook-off. (Brandon Kruse / Palm Beach Post)

Why did you decide to become a firefighter?

VALLE: ‘For me, and certainly I feel most firefighters would agree, public service is a “calling,” and a sense of “duty” to assist others when they need us most. Being a part of the fire service is very rewarding, not only in being able to help others, but in the connections and relationships that we build over time.’

What was the most exciting or scary moment you experienced as a firefighter?
BRADLEY: ‘Waiting for the chili cook-off winner to be announced! As far as on duty, here in South Florida it has to be hurricane details. We train for all possible scenarios, but nothing can prepare for you the magnitude and potential destruction a large storm can bring.’

The secret to making great chili is:
WHITE: ‘Patience, balance and melding of ingredients — and LETTING IT REST!’

What beer pairs best with your chili?
VALLE: ‘We were so busy serving chili, we didn’t get to sample all of the products, but Tequesta Brewing Co.’s Julio’s Jefe Weizen was excellent!’

PRATT & WHITNEY’S ‘AFTER BURN’ CHILI
Makes about 8 servings

2 tablespoons of olive oil
3 cloves of garlic, minced
2 large sweet onions, diced
1 pound lean ground beef
1 pound beef round, cubed
14 ounces diced tomatoes
1 cup of coffee
14 ounces (1 3/4 cups) of ginger beer
14 ounces (1 3/4 cups) beef stock
12 ounces tomato paste
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon cayenne
1 tablespoons cumin
2 wedges of Mexican chocolate (such as Ibarra)
2 30-ounce cans of red kidney beans, divided
4 large poblano peppers, seeded and large dice
1 jalapeño (optional)
Heat oil and sauté garlic and onion until translucent, and place in separate bowl.
Using the same pan, brown ground beef, drain and put in a separate bowl.
Using same pan, sear beef cubes.
Place all of the above ingredients in a large pot on medium heat, add tomatoes, coffee, ginger beer, beef stock and tomato paste, and stir.
Add spices, chocolate, 1 can of beans, peppers and gently stir. Bring to a low boil, cover and reduce heat to simmer for 1 1/2 hours, gently stirring every so often. Add remaining beans and cook for an additional 30 minutes.

MEET THE ‘MUTUAL AID’ CHILI COOK-OFF TEAM FROM MARTIN COUNTY FIRE RESCUE’S RURAL/METRO FIRE DEPARTMENT AT SIKORSKY AIRCRAFT:
Firefighter and EMT David Layman, firefighter and paramedic Michael Knapp

Why did you decide to become a firefighter?
LAYMAN: ‘I became a firefighter due to the deep desire to help and care for people. Plus a sense of danger, occasionally added to the mix, didn’t deter my desire. Being a firefighter affords me the ability to spend more time with my kids than a “normal” 40-hour work week, and working one out of three days (10 days a month) lends a lot of time to spending time with the family, get errands run, volunteer at the school my kids attend, and just having time for yourself to de-stress and focus on what is really important. It quite frankly is the best part time-full time job around.’

What was the most exciting or scary moment you experienced as a firefighter?
KNAPP: ‘We were on a major highway working a vehicle roll-over that already had one fatality. While treating another victim on scene, another accident with several vehicles occurred and one of them ran into our rescue. We quickly went from having one injured person to six or seven. At the time, there were only two fire-rescue units on scene and ours was the transporting unit, which could no longer move. We began treating victims using basically a (1 victim:1 rescuer) ratio until other units arrived. Everyone was treated and transported and thankfully no one from the original accident was injured by the second accident. Working on the side on the road is always a little unnerving but when you hear the sound of screeching breaks and the crunching of vehicles hitting other vehicles it becomes a bit tenser.’

The secret to making great chili is:
KNAPP: ‘Don’t take it too seriously. Have fun making it! Oh, and never use tomato paste.’

What beer pairs best with your chili?
KNAPP: ‘I’d say a good brown ale (i.e, Tequesta Brewing’s Terminally Ale). The maltiness of it pairs really well with the spices in the chili. You get great toasty, chocolate, brown-sugar flavors from the crystal malt and chocolate malt and these play off the heat from the chili powder and cayenne. The hops in a brown ale are usually fairly mellow and they keep everything balanced.’

THE MUTUAL AID TEAM’S ‘BURNING SENSATION’ CHILI RECIPE
Makes about 12 large servings
Olive or vegetable oil, for sautéing
2 1/3 pounds of ground beef
2 pounds of Roman Brand mild Italian sausage (see NOTE)
1 1/4 cups yellow onion, diced
1 cup red bell pepper, diced
1 to 2 tablespoons minced garlic, or to taste
1/2 cup of chili powder
1 tablespoon cumin
Salt, to taste
Black pepper, to taste
Dash of oregano, or to taste
Dash of sugar, or to taste
Dash of cayenne pepper, or to taste
2 cans (16 ounce) black beans
2 cans (16 ounce) red beans
NOTE: The “Mutual Aid” chefs are particular about the brand of sausage they use to make this chili. They prefer Roman Brand.
In a skillet, brown ground beef. Set aside in a bowl. In the same skillet, brown the sausage, with casings removed. Set aside, with their juices.
Heat oil in a large stew pot. Sauté onion, pepper and garlic until aromatic and slightly tender.
Add browned ground beef and sausage and their juices to the sauté mixture. Add diced tomatoes. Stir to combine over low heat.
Add chili powder, cumin, salt, black pepper, oregano, sugar and cayenne, stirring slowing between sprinklings.
Add black beans and red beans, stirring to combine all ingredients well.
Simmer, covered, over low heat until flavors are melded well.

THE BEER GUY’S PAIRING PICKS:

At this point you may be asking yourself, “I wonder what the all-knowing Beer Guy would pair with his hot chili?” (Ok, so that’s what I hope you’d be asking yourself.) And the answer is pretty simple and straightforward: A beer with plenty of malt sweetness — such as an amber lager, Oktoberfest lager or Vienna lager — to balance the spiciness of the chili.

Conversely, the spiciness of the chili will make the malt sweetness of the beer become more apparent. It really is a match made in heaven.

This of course is not the only option. In fact, an oatmeal or milk stout might do nicely with a four-alarm chili as well. As the chili gets milder, an easy drinking pale ale or brown ale could do the trick.

But do not attempt to pair a spicy chili with a strong, hoppy beer such as the very popular Double or Imperial IPA. The hops and alcohol in the ale will accentuate the heat from the chili and firefighters may have to be called to douse the subsequent blaze on your tongue.

Bakers of all skill levels are invited to enter their favorite cake or pie and share their recipes. The entry fee is $5 per entry.

The event, which is hosted by the Boynton Beach Recreation & Parks Department, takes place from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. at 128 E. Ocean Ave. For more information, call (561) 742-6243 or email phillipsj@bbfl.us.

Use more rosemary in your cooking.

Throughout the ages, rosemary’s aromatic addition to food has improved the flavor of all kinds of dishes, including The Star’s Rosemary Grilled Shrimp and Vegetables with Brown Rice Pilaf.

Rosemary contains compounds that stimulate digestion, protect the immune system and improve circulation. It is a good source of iron and calcium as well as fiber.

Storage tip: Before storing woody herbs like rosemary in a plastic bag in the refrigerator, wrap stems in a damp paper towel.

Cooking tip: When cutting rosemary, make sure your knife is sharp. A dull knife bruises the leaves and makes them taste bitter instead of helping to release potent oils.

Fun fact: Rosemary may be brain food: In ancient Greece, students placed sprigs in their hair while they were studying for exams.

Rosemary Grilled Shrimp and Vegetables

Serves: 4

1/2 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1/4 teaspoon paprika

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 pound jumbo fresh shrimp, shelled and deveined (about 16 to 20 per pound) or thawed, frozen, shelled, uncooked shrimp

1 medium sweet yellow onion, cut into wedges about 3/4 inch thick

1 medium red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch squares

1 small zucchini or yellow squash, halved lengthwise and sliced 3/4 inch thick

6 to 8 button mushrooms

Brown rice pilaf (see accompanying recipe)

Low-fat feta cheese crumbles (optional)

Fresh rosemary sprigs and lemon slices, for garnish

In a small bowl, whisk together juice, oil, rosemary, parsley, salt, pepper, paprika and red pepper flakes. Measure out and reserve 2 tablespoons juice mixture.

Place shrimp in a small bowl. Drizzle with about 1 tablespoon lemon-juice mixture. Toss to coat evenly. Thread shrimp onto 2 (12-inch) metal skewers. Thread vegetables onto 3 (12-inch) metal skewers.

Lightly oil grill grate or spray with nonstick spray. Preheat grill to medium or allow coals to burn down to white ash. Grill vegetables in a covered grill, over direct heat, 10 to 12 minutes or until vegetables are crisp tender, turning to brown evenly and brushing generously with lemon juice mixture while grilling.

Grill shrimp in a covered grill, over direct heat, 2 to 4 minutes or just until shrimp turn pink, turning to cook evenly and brushing generously with lemon juice mixture.

Carefully remove vegetables and shrimp from skewers, and place in a large mixing bowl. Drizzle with reserved 2 tablespoons lemon juice mixture and toss to coat evenly. Spoon shrimp and vegetables over Brown Rice Pilaf. Sprinkle with feta cheese, if desired, and garnish with rosemary springs and lemon slices.

Per serving: 231 calories; 11 g fat; 173 mg cholesterol; 10 g carbohydrates; 25 g protein; 305 mg sodium; 2 g dietary fiber

Brown Rice Pilaf

Makes 4 (1-cup) servings

2 teaspoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 (14.5-ounce) can reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 1/4 cups water
1 cup brown rice
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley
2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary

Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and cook 30 to 60 seconds, stirring frequently.

Add broth and water, and heat to a boil. Stir in rice, salt and pepper. Reduce heat to low, cover and cook 40 minutes.

Stir in fresh herbs. Cover and cook 10 minutes or until water is absorbed and rice is tender.
Spoon into a deep platter.

Per serving: 207 calories; 5 g fat ; 0 g cholesterol; 38 g carbohydrates; 8 g protein; 19 mg sodium; 1 g dietary fiber

Let’s have a quick show of hands among the diet-conscious: Who is craving a plain baked chicken breast right now?

Exactly. No one.

Chicken breasts au naturel don’t ring my bells either, so I’m always looking for ways to pair chicken with flavor detonators in order to have myself a real meal. One of my favorite ways to enjoy chicken is to dispense with the breasts altogether. And since I’m a thigh man, I opt to use chicken thighs instead.

Yes, it’s true that the thigh is fattier than the breast – about 8 grams per 4-ounce cooked portion – but the fat brings with it the extra zing and moisture breasts can so often lack.

Plus, the dark meat of the thigh contains the nutritional jackpot of more iron and twice the zinc of white meat. Better yet, you’ll be saving more than 400 calories a serving here, compared to a classically prepared chicken dish like coq au vin. Traditional versions of this dish pack 781 calories and 68 grams of fat per serving. Mine? Just 338 calories and 9 grams of fat.

And if you’re a novice cook, that extra fat also means that it’s harder to screw up a chicken thigh recipe, no matter how you cook them. Unlike with chicken breasts, thighs rarely end up overcooked or dry. To reduce the fat, though, I suggest trimming off any extra bits of fat.

My recipe for braised chicken thighs, which is perfect for a hearty winter meal, combines two techniques: browning over high heat and cooking with quick, low-heat braise, either in the oven or a slow cooker.

Braising foods is a great way to create tender meaty dishes. Cook this dish at a lower temperature in your slow cooker if you need to be away from the kitchen for the day. Or you can do it in the oven at 275 F for 3 to 5 hours. Just be sure you have a tight fitting cover for your pot to make sure the liquid doesn’t evaporate.

The braising liquid uses something that’s probably been residing, forgotten, in the back of your liquor cabinet since the days of the Nixon administration: sweet red vermouth (used mostly for Manhattans). Vermouth is a wine infused with a concoction of herbs. Combined with thyme and two varieties of mustard, the vermouth creates a lusty sauce for the chicken that packs unbelievable flavor.

So when you’re craving a diet meal that’s low in fat and calories, but rich with delicious flavor, try this one. Just about any side dish goes with it, be it baked potatoes or yams, brown rice or steamed veggies.

Lighter take on classic braised chicken uses sweet red vermouth

Braised Chicken with Mushrooms and Mustard

Serves: 4

Preparation: 1 hour (20 minutes active), plus cooling

1 cup fat-free, reduced-sodium chicken stock or broth

20 dried shiitake mushrooms

8 small bone-in chicken thighs (about 2 1/2 pounds total), skinned

Salt and ground black pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 1/2 cups chopped yellow onion

1/2 cup sweet red vermouth (such as Martini Rossi), divided

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard

2 teaspoons lightly chopped fresh thyme

In a medium saucepan over medium-high, combine the chicken stock and mushrooms. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover and set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine the chicken stock and mushrooms . Cover and refrigerate overnight. The next day, remove and discard the mushroom stems. Cut mushroom caps in half and return to the stock.

Heat the oven to 325°. Season all the chicken pieces with salt and pepper.

In a large Dutch oven or other oven-safe pot, heat the oil over medium-high. Add the chicken, half at a time if necessary, and brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to a plate, then add the onions to the pan. Cook over medium heat until the onions are softened, about 3 minutes. Add half of the vermouth and stir to deglaze the pan.

Return the chicken to the pan, then add the stock and mushroom mixture. Cover and bring to a simmer.

Transfer the pot to the oven and bake, covered, for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through.

Once the chicken is cooked, uncover the pot. Place the pot on a burner over medium heat and add both mustards, the remaining vermouth and the thyme. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for about 10 minutes, or until the sauce thickens slightly and glazes the chicken.

Divide the chicken between 4 serving plates. Spoon the sauce over and around the chicken.

Per serving: 338 calories; 9 g fat ; 115 mg cholesterol; 25 g carbohydrate; 31 g protein; 3 g fiber; 676 mg sodium

The typical grocer sells some 50,000 different products. The typical shopper buys the same 264 over and over again.

The point of this column? To persuade you to take a second look at some of the 49,736 foods that don’t usually land in your cart.

Cardamom, for example. This spice aisle resident is a master of blurring the sweet-savory line. Yet most people know it only (if at all) for the rather dull cookies named after it. But cardamom is way more than a cookie, and it belongs on the dinner table as much as it does in desserts.

First, the basics. Cardamom is a seed that is related to ginger and originated in India (both of which explain why it makes frequent appearances in Indian sauces, chutneys and rubs). The taste is citrusy and floral, as well as warm and peppery.

Cardamom is sold whole (black seeds in a grayish-green pod) and ground (a fine greyish-blue powder).

While the flavor is best when you get whole pods and grind them as needed, raise your hand if you can admit that’s too much trouble.

To demo how easy it is to use an overlooked ingredient like cardamom to overhaul your weeknight cooking, I created this simple roasted chicken and potatoes. Don’t want to do thighs? Use breasts, or even the whole bird.

The point? Getting big flavor from everyday cooking can be easy. And the secret ingredient often is right in front of you.

Substitute any root vegetables you like for the potatoes in this recipe. Sweet potatoes, carrots and parsnips are fine choices. You also could skip the vegetables entirely and serve the chicken over egg noodles tossed with the pan sauce made at the end of this recipe.

Cardamom-Honey Chicken Thighs with New Potatoes

Serves: 4

Preparation: 1 hour, 5 minutes (15 minutes active)

1/3 cup honey

Zest of 1 orange

2 tablespoons olive or canola oil, divided

Kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cardamom

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 1/2 pounds new potatoes

1 1/2 pounds skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs

Heat the oven to 400°.

In a small bowl, whisk together the honey, orange zest, 1 tablespoon of the oil, 1 teaspoon of salt, the garlic powder, cardamom and pepper. Set aside.

In a 9-by-9-inch metal roasting or baking pan, toss the potatoes with the remaining tablespoon of oil and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Arrange the potatoes in an even layer.

Use a pastry brush to coat the chicken thighs with the honey mixture under and over the skin. Arrange the chicken pieces over the potatoes.

Cover with foil and roast for 35 minutes. Uncover and roast for another 15 minutes. Transfer the meat and potatoes to a plate, cover with foil and set aside.

Set the roasting pan over a stovetop burner on medium-high heat. Bring the liquid in the pan to a simmer and cook until thickened, about 2 minutes.

Serve the chicken and potatoes drizzled with the pan sauce.

Per serving: 655 calories; 33 g fat; 143 mg cholesterol; 53 g carbohydrate; 33 g protein; 2 g fiber; 199 mg sodium

It wouldn’t have occurred to me to combine a traditional chili with canned pumpkin puree. But I recently had dinner with friends and was impressed by the vegetarian chili they served. It was rich and thick with barley, lentils, chopped vegetables.

And canned pumpkin.

And no, it didn’t taste like pumpkin pie. In fact, there was only the faintest hint of pumpkin flavor at all.

So why add it? For starters, it’s an effortless way to significantly up the nutritional power of a basic chili. Open can, add gobs of fat-free, high-fiber nutrients.

The pumpkin also does great things for the texture of the chili. The pumpkin disappears into the liquid, giving the chili a rich, smooth, almost creamy texture and creating the perfect base for the seasonings and meat.

When I started playing around with my own chili recipe using pumpkin, I decided right away to stick with an all-meat chili. If you prefer veg versions, consider using the pumpkin-red pepper base I call for in the recipe, then substitute as you see fit for the meat (beans, lentils and grains are good choices).

I used a blend of ground bison and finely chopped boneless pork ribs, but any blend of lean meats could be used, including ground turkey or beef and chopped steak.

Pureeing the onions and red peppers may seem an unusual choice, but I wanted the only textures in the chili to be a thick, rich sauce and chunks of meat. Hunks of onion or red pepper would have messed with that.

Finally, to keep this chili family-friendly, I went light to moderate on the seasonings. Feel free to crank up the heat if that’s what you prefer.

Pumpkin-Roasted Red Pepper Chili

Serves: 6

2 medium yellow onions, quartered

16-ounce jar roasted red peppers, drained

15-ounce can pumpkin puree

6-ounce can tomato paste

2 pounds ground bison

1 pound boneless pork ribs, roughly chopped

2 cups chicken broth

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/4 teaspoon chili powder

Salt and ground black pepper

In a blender or food processor, combine the onions, roasted red peppers, pumpkin and tomato paste. Puree until smooth. Set aside.

Heat a large stockpot over medium-high. Add the bison and pork and cook until starting to brown, about 7 to 8 minutes.

Add the pumpkin mixture and the broth, then stir well. Add the garlic powder, cumin, cinnamon, cayenne, smoked paprika and chili powder.

Bring to a simmer, then partially cover the pot to prevent splattering but allow steam to escape. Simmer for 45 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Per serving: 650 calories; 43 g fat; 170 mg cholesterol; 20 g carbohydrate; 44 g protein; 5 g fiber; 1,170 mg sodium

This is one reason that I’m the person at the table who immediately looks at the side dishes (not dessert!) when I am handed a restaurant menu. If they have roasted vegetables, I have to order them.

These days, well-roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower are my favorites. But the same technique can be applied to any hard, dense vegetable – sweet potatoes, beets, fennel, whole shallots, carrots, acorn and butternut squash. Even baking potatoes and broccoli are elevated by this technique.

This dish is delicious and healthy, to boot. I roast one to two whole heads of cauliflower until caramelized, then drizzle on an aromatic vinaigrette of capers, shallots and garlic.

The vinaigrette is good when all the ingredients are raw, but when you flash-fry them they become sweet and caramelized and match the tenor of the roasted vegetables. I love the combination of the crispy, yet tender and deeply roasted cauliflower contrasted by the clean, tangy vinegar and Dijon mustard in the vinaigrette.

Roasting transforms cauliflower from something that is difficult to eat to something that you can’t get enough of. I liken it to popcorn because it can be similarly addictive. It is almost a magic trick to see how quickly this dish disappears, especially with people who wouldn’t touch raw or steamed cauliflower.

Roasted Cauliflower Florets

Serves: 8

Preparation: 45 minutes

2 heads cauliflower (about 4 1/2 pounds)

2 tablespoons olive oil, or more if needed

2 teaspoons kosher salt, or more to taste

Fried caper vinaigrette (recipe at right)

Minced country ham for garnish, optional

Heat the oven to 400º. Set a wire rack over a baking sheet. Wash and trim both heads of cauliflower, cutting out and discarding the core and cutting the top into large florets.

Place the florets into a large bowl and drizzle with olive oil, then toss (you may need to do this in 2 batches) until all the surfaces of the cauliflower are coated with a thin film of oil.

Sprinkle with salt and toss again to distribute evenly.

Place the florets on the prepared rack. Roast for 30 minutes. Use tongs to turn the florets, then roast for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until deeply caramelized.

Return the florets to the bowl and, while still hot, drizzle and toss with a little of the fried caper vinaigrette (recipe follows). Add just enough of the vinaigrette to lig

Fritz Cassel, executive chef at Gratify in West Palm Beach, shows off two of his creations -- the 'bacon and eggs' dessert and his twist on the BLT. (Photo by Libby Volgyes)

Bacon lovers, you have a new shrine.

Gratify, the downtown West Palm Beach gastro pub with a culinary kick, wants to lure you in with smoky, delicious bacon. Homemade bacon, that is.

"We’re big pork fans around here. We like pork in all forms," says executive chef Fritz Cassel, Gratify’s resident Baconator.

He sizzles up barbecue sliders, sage-seared pork chops and ever-popular baby back ribs.

And then there’s his house bacon.

"I don’t even really remember what inspired me to make it the first time," says the 36-year-old chef. "It just hit me one day. I just felt like making bacon."

So the young, innovative chef with the sparkling eyes, a lifelong lover of bacon, grandson of a Southern chef who cooked biscuits in bacon fat, and father of a 6-year-old bacon fanatic named Ava decided to make his own, decadent, smoky, taste-bud-screeching bacon.

He starts with 8 to 10 pounds of pork belly, delivered fresh from his local purveyor, Bush Brothers Provisions. Then he cures it with his own blend of spices that weave together the toasted cinnamon stick and star anise flavors of his childhood star anise cookies and hints of allspice inspired by a former Jamaican sous chef ("He really loved that allspice").

Cassel rounds out his spice mix with black peppercorns, smoked paprika, sugar and kosher salt. He toasts the spices, grinds them finely in a food processor – a step which opens up the flavors – and then carefully rubs the mixture over the pork belly. He lets the meat sit for five days.

The chef, who created his own recipe by trial and error, marvels at its bursts of flavor.

"It’s really unbelievable just on a hamburger alone," he says.

Perfect porcine accent

Cassel's 'bacon and eggs' dessert -- you can see the recipe below. (Photo by Libby Volgyes)

But the bacon flair doesn’t stop with any old hamburger. Cassel creates dishes just for the bacon and throws it in to accent his other dishes or uses the renderings to cook with.

"It really gives you layers and layers (of flavor)," says Cassel. "I love bacon. It’s just a great ingredient. I like the smoked aspect or it can be the focus of a dish."

After five days of curing, he wipes the spices off the meat and places it in his homemade smoker (a hotel pan with a few holes in it and tin foil). He’s tried all different wood chips, including apple wood and cherry wood, but prefers hickory because the aroma reminds him of home – of Oklahoma and backyard barbecue.

"The hickory is nice. It’s familiar," he says.

After smoking the cured pork belly for a few hours, Cassel lets it cool down, then freezes it, which helps him slice it.

Then he starts daydreaming, imagining all the things he could do with it.

"It’s great. If I had one meat to eat (for the rest of my life) it would be pork for sure. It’s so versatile," he says.

Savory and sweet inspirations

He starts by adding the smoky pork to brussels sprouts in the form of bacon aioli. The explosion of taste is enough to turn any cabbage hater into a convert.

Then he judiciously adds it to his burgers and BLTs, one of his guilty pleasures ("A BLT is hard for me to resist – I’d go for it every time").

And then there’s a bacon-laced dessert. As in a vanilla custard "egg white" and orange custard "egg yolk" and chocolate-dipped bacon on the side.

It’s sweet bacon heaven.

The folks at Gratify aren’t too concerned that our collective bacon obsession might wane anytime soon.

"Bacon’s only been around for 5,000 years. I’m sure it’s just a passing fad," jokes Gratify owner Gene Playter.

Chef Cassel agrees:

"You don’t just get over bacon."

DESSERT BACON AND EGGS

Makes about 10 servings

FOR THE VANILLA CUSTARD:

1 quart cream

1 quart milk

1 cup sugar

2 whole vanilla beans

8 egg yolks

1 tablespoon cornstarch

FOR THE ORANGE CUSTARD:

1 quart orange juice

1/2 cup sugar

4 egg yolks

2 tablespoons cornstarch

Zest and juice from one orange

1 star anise

FOR THE CHOCOLATE-COVERED BACON:

1/2 cup chocolate, either semi-sweet or dark, melted

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

10 bacon slices, cooked until crispy

To make vanilla custard:

Heat cream and milk with vanilla bean. Whisk together yolks, sugar and cornstarch.

Temper milk into yolk mixture and stir over medium heat until it thickens and looks smooth and glossy on a spoon.

Let it cool and pour into a ramekin or small, oval, freezer-proof dish. Freeze.

To make orange custard:

Heat orange juice and zest and star anise.

Whisk together yolks, sugar and cornstarch.

Temper juice into yolks and stir over medium heat until thick like a pudding. Remove from heat and whisk in juice from the fresh orange.

Let cool and place in a piping bag.

To serve:

Pipe an egg yolk-sized circle onto the vanilla custard

Brush melted chocolate onto a crisp bacon slice and sprinkle with sea salt.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH BACON AIOLI

Makes 8 side servings

1 pound bacon

1 pound brussels sprouts

Bacon aioli*

*FOR THE BACON AIOLI:

1/2 cup bacon fat

1/2 cup vegetable oil

4 egg yolks

Juice from one lemon

1 teaspoon garlic

1 pinch black pepper

1 tablespoon parsley

1 tablespoon chives

Hot sauce, to taste

Salt, to tasteTo make bacon aioli:

Blend yolks, lemon juice, garlic in food processor or blender.

Slowly add oil and bacon fat until mixture thickens to a mayonnaise-like consistency.

Whisk in remainder of ingredients. Season to taste.

To make Brussels sprouts:

Trim sprouts and keep the leaves that fall off. Blanch and chill sprouts.

Slice in half. Sear sprouts in a very hot sauté pan with some vegetable oil (feel free to use some excess bacon fat).

Roast in a 400 degree oven until nice and brown.

Pan fry or deep-fry some extra leaves until crispy to garnish. Be careful, as they will pop in the pan at first, so drop them in and back away. To serve, toss cooked brussels sprouts in aioli and bacon pieces and garnish with crispy leaves.

GRATIFY BLT

1 good loaf of crusty bread, either ciabatta or a French baguette

Roasted cherry tomatoes, for topping

Cilantro chimichurri*

Arugula, for topping

Bacon, to taste

Olive oil, to drizzle, or a smear of bacon aioli (see brussels sprouts recipe)

Habanero sauce, optional

*FOR THE CHIMICHURRI:

1 bunch cilantro

3 cloves garlic

1 pinch crushed red pepper

Freshly ground black pepper, about two turns of the grinder

1 pinch salt

3/4 cup olive oil

3/4 cup vegetable oil

To make BLT:

Toast baguette. Spread cilantro chimichurri on the bread.

Layer arugula, bacon and roasted tomatoes over chimichurri.

Drizzle with good, extra virgin olive oil or bacon aioli. Garnish with extra cilantro or fresh basil.

GRATIFY AMERICAN GASTRO PUB:

125 Datura St., in downtown West Palm Beach;

(561) 833-5300; gratifypub.com

If you’re trying to cut out artificial sweeteners and avoid white sugar, agave is made from the Mexican agave plant – sweeter than honey but with a low Glycemic Index of 32, meaning that it causes less of a blood sugar spike.

Agave nectar is best kept at room temperature, and is good for at least a year once opened. Gluten and allergen-free, use 1/3 cup for every 1 cup of sugar in a recipe. And it’s delicious in iced tea.

Put down the cookies, step away from the fridge.

It’s hard to go cold turkey in the New Year, so stock up with satisfying, healthful eats, like this zingy lemony hummus that makes celery and carrot sticks more of a meal.

Make this creamy hummus from scratch with canned garbanzo beans (also called chickpeas), a firm, chewy, slightly sweet bean.

This dip is less expensive than the store-bought kind, and full of protein, low in unsaturated fat and high in fiber. And you can throw it together in about 10 minutes.

Make-Your-Own Lemony Hummus

Make 2 cups

15-ounce can garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed

3 tablespoons water

4 tablespoons lemon juice

1 clove garlic, peeled

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons coriander

1 teaspoon paprika, plus more for garnish

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

Combine all ingredients in a food processor or blender until smooth, scraping sides of bowl.

Transfer to a bowl and drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with paprika. Cover and refrigerate up to a week.

Veal medallions with prosciutto-wrapped shrimp and sweet pea risotto. (Taylor Jones / Palm Beach Post)

There’s a great little surprise of an eatery tucked between a Staples and a multiplex cinema in a busy Jupiter strip plaza. Samantha’s American Cuisine sits unassumingly, but certainly not unnoticed.

The 7-year-old restaurant is bustling on weekends with regulars who can’t get enough of Samantha’s signature dishes, all generously portioned. On a recent visit, I came to realize what keeps bringing them back to this cozy spot.

The allure isn’t just one dish or one nightly special, but a seamless experience of fresh, well prepared, beautifully presented food and attentive service. Whether you’re seated at the al fresco patio or inside at the bar or in either of Samantha’s two small dining rooms, your experience begins with a soul-warming touch: a basket of warm and crusty baguette-style bread and a dipping dish of garlic-scented, Parmesan sprinkled olive oil.

If this is your first visit, your next dish absolutely should be the house’s signature crusted calamari with roasted crispy portobello, basil, lemon, sweet cherry peppers and chef/owner Edward Bonsignore Jr.’s famous “twisted tomato scampi” ($11). As calamari apps go, this is one deliciously blinged-out rendition: the calamari, tender inside its crisp-fried crust, is tossed lightly with a garlicky, lemony sauce that’s deepened by a few crushed tomatoes and the pop of pickled mild cherry peppers.

Chef Ed Bonsignore

The light, yet luscious weight of the sauce in this dish quickly revealed the sauce philosophy of Bonsignore and fellow chef Anthony Muolo. The sauce serves to accent, not obscure or hide the dish. I found this to be true in the dishes I sampled that quite busy Friday night. Even on our shared salad of baby greens, diced pear, toasted-spiced walnuts, gorgonzola and endive ($8), the raspberry vinaigrette barely kissed the lovely composition, allowing the walnuts to remain toasty fresh and the greens to remain crisp.

Later, a grilled center cut veal rib chop arrived (on the bone) with a judicious side of porcini mushroom sauce, creamy mushroom risotto and garlic braised spinach ($38). Thick, juicy and grilled to a perfect medium-rare-ish finish, the hefty chop stood proudly as the dish’s star ingredient.

Also stellar was the Maine lobster tail over linguini with a trio of clams, shrimp and black mussels, in an ultra-light seafood-tomato sauce ($34). Here, the shellfish stood out in plump, fresh, tender glory in a pasta fragrant with roasted garlic and sweet basil.

And we sampled Samantha’s crab crusted grouper ($30) served in a sauce of fresh tomato, garlic, lemon and white wine. This was a dish that struck the perfect balance – not too rich, not too saucy – because the lemon-wine sauce played contrast to the (super-fresh) grouper’s crab crust.

A meal this delicious needs a moment or two of grateful reflection. Our efficient and affable server did his best to make us feel unrushed. However, just after dessert, he did warn us that several other tables were wrapping up their meals and our check might take a while if we didn’t request it soon. His best intentions were set back by the blur of departing and incoming diners, and we did have to wait a good 15 minutes or so to wrap things up.

In the meantime, we did have dessert, namely the house’s homemade bread pudding, to linger over. Served warm with fresh sliced bananas and berries, this is the chef’s grandmother’s recipe, a pudding of rustic bread that soaks in custard for two days before baking. So simple and delicious, as was everything we sampled that night.

Samantha’s

FOOD: A

SERVICE: A minus

ADDRESS: 201 N U.S. 1, No. 9, (at Indiantown Road), Jupiter | Directions, invite a friend

TELEPHONE: (561) 743-0801

PRICE RANGE: Moderate to expensive

HOURS: Monday through Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Strongly recommended, but walk-ins welcome

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, including restrooms

WHAT THE GRADES

MEAN:

A – Excellent

B – Good

C – Average

D – Poor

F – Don’t bother

If you have leftovers, they’ll taste great cold.

On the side, try couscous or quickly sautéed greens.

Steak with Onion and Tomato Sauce

Serves: 3 or 4

3 large cloves garlic

1 to 1 1/4 pounds flank steak

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 large onion

2-inch piece ginger root

1 teaspoon coriander seed

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons tomato paste, preferably double-concentrated

1 pound (7 to 9) mid-size, round, red tomatoes, such as Campari

1/2 cup dry white wine (may substitute a dry red wine)

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 cup water

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Finely chop 1 of the garlic cloves and cut the other 2 cloves into very thin slices, discarding any green inner sprouts you might run across. Rub the chopped garlic into both sides of the steak, then season both sides with the salt and pepper. Let the steak rest while you prep the sauce ingredients: Cut the onion into 1/2-inch dice. Peel, then grate the ginger. Crush the coriander seed.

Heat a medium ridged griddle pan or cast-iron skillet over high heat.

Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add the sliced garlic, ginger and coriander seed. Stir to incorporate, and cook for 4 minutes, until the onion starts to pick up some color.

Make a well in the center of the pan and add the tomato paste; let cook undisturbed for 2 minutes, then stir to incorporate and cook for 2 minutes. The onion should be slightly softened.

Place the steak on the hot griddle pan or in the cast-iron skillet. Cook for about 6 minutes on the first side, then turn it over and cook for 4 to 6 minutes on the second side (for medium-rare) or a few minutes longer as desired. Transfer to a cutting board to rest for at least 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut the tomatoes in half horizontally, then discard the seeds and coarsely chop the remaining tomato flesh, adding to the saute pan as you work. Increase the heat to medium-high, then add the wine, vinegar, water and crushed red pepper flakes, stirring to combine. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring a few times. Reduce the heat to low to keep warm; at this point, the sauce should be chunky, with a little extra liquid. Taste, and season with salt and/or pepper as needed.

Cut the steak against the grain into thin slices; divide among individual plates. Top with equal amounts of the sauce or spoon it alongside. Serve hot.

Per serving: 280 calories, 27 g protein, 13 g carbohydrates, 12 g fat, 50 mg cholesterol, 410 mg sodium, 6 g sugar

The sauce recipe was adapted from the Royal Kitchen blog as printed in "Foodista: Best of Food Blogs Cookbook," edited by Barnaby Dorfman, Sherie L. Wetherell and Colin M. Saunders (Andrews McMeel, 2010).

Processed varieties, for example, can be loaded with calories, fat and sodium. And don’t even get me started on the lack of flavor and hunks of tough chicken.

In my recipe for chicken noodle soup, I sidestep all these liabilities. I simmer the soup with real chicken and fresh vegetables, like carrots and onions, which are a great source of vitamins. The more veggies you add, the more nutrients you get.

Like many chicken noodle soups, mine is based on broth instead of cream, which saves on fattening calories. And I add thyme for flavor, negating the need for excess salt.

Soup is one of those foods classified as "low energy dense." This mean you can eat a lot of it and fill up without consuming a lot of calories.

Rather than add carb-rich noodles, I’ve used shirataki noodles. They’re made from konnyaku, a dough of Asian yam (konjac) flour and water. Shirataki noodles are a superb pasta substitute; each serving has 20 calories or fewer, plus 2 grams of fiber. They’re low on the glycemic index too, so they won’t send your blood sugar through the roof.

These noodles also are gluten-free. If you can’t find them in the store, go to miraclenoodle.com. But don’t substitute with tofu shirataki, which are not as good.

LOW-FAT COOKING:

Chicken soup with all the comfort but less salt, calories, fat

Chicken Noodle Soup

Serves: 8

Preparation: 45 minutes (20 minutes active)

2 quarts (8 cups) reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 1/2 cups diced (1-inch pieces) carrots

1 1/2 cups chopped (1-inch pieces) yellow onion

1 cup (1-inch pieces) celery

3 bone-in chicken thighs (about 1 pound), skin removed

4 sprigs fresh thyme, tied together with kitchen string

2 bay leaves

1 cube salt-free vegetable bouillon

16 ounces shirataki noodles, rinsed with cold water

1/2 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning

Salt and ground black pepper

In a 6-quart stockpot over medium heat, combine the broth, carrots, onions, celery, chicken thighs, thyme, bay leaves and bouillon cube. Bring to a very gentle simmer and cook until the vegetables are tender and chicken is cooked through, about 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut the shirataki noodles into pieces about 3 inches long.

Remove the chicken thighs from the soup and place on a cutting board. Remove and discard the bones. Shred the chicken meat, then return it to the soup along with the noodles and Old Bay Seasoning.

Season with salt and pepper, then remove and discard the bay leaves and thyme. Skim any fat off the top of the soup, then ladle into 8 serving bowls.

Per serving: 93 calories; 3 g fat; 2 mg cholesterol; 6 g carbohydrate; 10 g protein; 1 g fiber; 659 mg sodium

Want my trick for starting the year off on a fun and healthy note? Drag out the fondue pot!

Fondue is a casual and social way to celebrate. The trouble is, fondue — especially cheese fondue — can be incredibly unhealthy. A classic fondue starts with rich cheeses blended with a little spice and some white wine to create a thick, savory sauce for dipping chunks of bread and other morsels.

Delicious, but dangerous to your New Year’s resolutions. So I decided to make a recipe that lets you eat sinfully without the sin. The secret is in the blend of cheeses: I used a low-fat Jarlsberg, a creamy light brie and already low-calorie pecorino Romano to make a rich fondue that no one will guess is low in calories and fat.

For the liquid, I chose dry Champagne — one of the lowest calorie adult beverages you can serve — and a thickener similar to cornstarch called arrowroot (which has virtually no calories) in order to get the right consistency and flavor.

Fondues are outrageously easy to prepare — virtually no cooking skill required. For starters, allow the cheese to stand at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes before making the fondue so it will melt more quickly and incorporate more smoothly. Then simply stir together the ingredients in a saucepan, blend well and heat.

Next, pour the mixture into a fondue pot and perch it on a coffee table or dining table where everyone can indulge.
For healthy dunking, you can serve whole-wheat bread or grapes for dipping, or even pieces of raw broccoli, cooked shrimp or baked chicken strips. I suggest coating these with the thinnest layer of cheese possible, so that you can still taste whatever is at the end of your dipping stick.

Finally, pull up some chairs or cushions (yes, you can place your fondue pot right on the floor) for some relaxed eating fun.
And the numbers alone are reason to celebrate. Traditional cheese fondue can pack 670 calories and 29 grams of fat per serving. My version comes in with just 227 calories and 10 grams of fat.

Tip: Allow the cheese to stand at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes before making the fondue; it will melt quicker and blend more smoothly.

New Year’s Eve Fondue

Serves: 4
Preparation: 30 minutes

4 slices of light whole-wheat bread (such as Pepperidge Farms)
16 seedless red grapes
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 tablespoon arrowroot powder
4 ounces demi sec Champagne, divided
4 ounces Jarlsberg lite cheese, finely shredded
2 ounces pecorino Romano cheese, grated
2 ounces light brie, cut up with rind removed
Salt and cayenne pepper

Heat the broiler. Set the top oven rack about 4 inches below the broiler.

Cut the crusts off of the slices of bread. Cut each bread slice into 4 equal strips. Wrap 1 bread strip halfway around one grape and poke a long metal skewer through the bread and grape so that the skewer is pushed through both ends of the bread strip with the grape in the middle. Repeat with remaining bread strips and grapes.

Place all 16 skewers on a large baking sheet. Broil for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the bread is browned and crisp, turning once halfway through broiling. Set aside. In a small saucepan over medium-high, bring the water and shallot to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, until the shallots are tender, about 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix the arrowroot with 1 ounce of the Champagne. Pour the remaining Champagne into the saucepan with the shallot. Whisk the arrowroot and Champagne mixture into the saucepan. Continue to cook and whisk until the mixture is thickened, about 30 seconds.

Reduce the heat to low and add the Jarlsberg, whisking constantly until the cheese is melted. Add the pecorino and continue whisking until melted. Repeat with the brie. Season to taste with salt and a pinch of cayenne. Pour the mixture into a fondue pot and serve with the bread and grape skewers for dipping.

Per serving: 227 calories; 10 g fat; 25 mg cholesterol; 11 g carbohydrate; 19 g protein; 2 g fiber; 502 mg sodium

But let’s face it, they’ve been done. They’ve been done with grape jelly and ketchup. They’ve been done with beer and barbecue sauce. And they’ve been done with creamy gravies.

So how about something a little different? Something that adds some zing to the appetizer offerings. This recipe has all that, plus a do-ahead sensibility.

We’ve given directions for making the meatballs on the stove, but if you prefer you can transfer them to a slow cooker to keep them warm for your party. You also can keep them warm in a Dutch oven over a stovetop burner set on low.

Cranberry Chipotle Meatballs

Makes 50 meatballs

Preparation: 30 minutes

FOR THE MEATBALLS:

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 medium yellow onion, diced

1 pound lean ground beef

1 pound lean ground pork

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 chipotle pepper (in adobo sauce), minced

1 tablespoon adobo sauce (from canned chipotles in adobo)

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

2 eggs

3/4 cup panko breadcrumbs

FOR THE SAUCE:

16-ounce can cranberry sauce

12-ounce jar chili sauce

3 tablespoons adobo sauce (from canned chipotles in adobo)

Heat the oven to 425°. Coat a large rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray.

In a medium skillet over medium-high, heat the olive oil. Add the garlic and onion and saute until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Set aside to cool.

In a large bowl, mix together the cooked onion mixture, beef, pork, salt, black pepper, chipotle pepper, adobo sauce, vinegar, eggs and breadcrumbs. Form the mixture into 1-inch balls. Arrange the balls on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 10 minutes, or until cooked through and browned.

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the cranberry sauce, chili sauce and adobo sauce. Bring to a simmer.

When the meatballs are done, transfer them to a shallow bowl or rimmed platter. Pour the sauce over the meatballs.

Per meatball: 60 calories; 3 g fat; 20 mg cholesterol; 6 g carbohydrate; 4 g protein; 0 g fiber; 280 mg sodium

My ideal Dec. 31 is pretty basic. We invite another family to spend the night, freeing us up to get comfortable, play games, drink wine without worry and – most importantly – enjoy a leisurely dinner that we cook together. And the slower the better.

One year we grilled marinated thinly sliced beef and vegetables on tabletop hibachis. Another time we did fondue.

Last year, we dragged out the raclette, a funky cooktop used at the table to melt cheese by the same name (the cheese and other toppings are served over roasted potatoes).

This year it will be a roll-your-own sushi party. Don’t be intimidated. It’s incredibly easy and tremendous fun.

Here’s what you need to know:

There are many varieties of sushi, but the most appropriate for a party like this is the maki roll (also the variety Americans are most familiar with) – sheets of nori seaweed wrapped around cooked sushi rice and a variety of fillings. These are easy to prepare and easy to personalize.

Start by preparing your rice. Be sure to use real sushi rice (widely available at mainstream grocers) and prepare it according to the recipe below. Rice used in sushi should be sweetly acidic (thanks to the addition of seasoned rice vinegar) and needs to be sticky, but not gummy.

My sushi rice recipe is simple and makes enough rice for four rolls (each roll can be cut into 6 to 8 pieces). Plan for at least 2 to 3 rolls per person. The rice recipe is easily doubled.

Next, assemble your fillings. There are no rules here, but one safeguard. The raw seafood used in sushi at restaurants is of the highest grade. I don’t recommend going raw unless you really know and trust your source on the seafood (Whole Foods Markets recently started selling frozen raw sushi-grade seafood, for example).

And don’t be afraid to mix it up. There’s nothing that says you can’t make a barbecue pulled pork sushi roll. Or one stuffed with cold peanut noodles.

Some of my favorite fillings include sliced avocado, smoked salmon, thin strips of cucumber (seeds scraped out), shredded carrots, smoked or seasoned tofu (cut into strips), cooked shrimp (shells and tails removed), tuna or other seafood salads, marinated and roasted asparagus, seared scallops, cooked crab meat, strips of red and yellow bell pepper, peppadew peppers, cooked chicken (barbecue tenders are especially good), sauteed mushrooms, roasted whole cloves of garlic and sesame seeds.

You’ll also need a few condiments. The three basics are soy sauce, wasabi (the spicy green stuff) and pickled ginger (all of which are available everywhere). The wasabi can be purchased as a paste, but the powder often is a better quality (mix it with water to form a paste).

Finally, you’ll need sheets of toasted nori. Most grocers that sell prepared sushi also sell supplies, including the nori. You use one sheet per sushi roll, but buy extra, as nori is delicate and mishaps are likely (especially if you are sipping sake).

The only special equipment you’ll need is a bamboo rolling mat (also sold by most grocers). These resemble placemats made from thin strips of wood. They help you roll and form the sushi. They are inexpensive, so plan to get two or three and guests can take turns.

To assemble a sushi roll, lay a sheet of nori on a bamboo rolling mat. Using wet fingers or the back of a spoon (dipped in water), carefully spread about 1/2 to 3/4 cup of cooked sushi rice over the nori. Leave about a 3/4-inch strip of nori bare on the edge farthest from you.

Arrange a thin line of fillings (thicker fillings are harder to roll) down the center of the nori sheet (running parallel to the edge closest to you.

Using the mat to help lift the nori and rice, roll the sushi away from you, forming it into a tight log. Dunk your fingers in water to moisten the 3/4-inch strip of nori at the far side, then finish rolling and press the wet nori to seal the roll.

Run a serrated knife under water then, without drying or wiping the knife, cut the roll into six or so pieces.

Then eat, enjoy, roll a few more and make a toast to a wonderful new year.

Sushi Rice

Makes enough for 4 maki rolls (each can be cut into 6 to 8 pieces)

Preparation: 1 hour 35 minutes (10 minutes active)

1 cup white sushi rice

1 1/3 cups water

1/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar

Place the rice in a mesh strainer and rinse under cool water. Leave the rice in the strainer and let drain for 1 hour.

In a small saucepan over medium-high, combine the drained rice and water. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce heat to low. Simmer for 14 minutes without removing the cover.

Remove the pan from the heat and uncover. Drape a dish towel over the pan, then replace the cover. Let it sit for 20 minutes. This step is important for getting the proper moisture content for the rice.

Transfer the rice to a shallow baking dish and sprinkle the vinegar over it. Use a wooden spoon to toss the rice with the vinegar until well mixed. Use while slightly warm.

Our go-to choice is this recipe for ham and cheese scones, which are easily prepared days (or even weeks) ahead of time. Mix the dough and form it into wedges as instructed, then freeze them until ready to bake.

You can double the recipe, or just bake off a portion of it depending on the size of your Christmas morning crowd.

When you are ready to bake the scones, take them from the freezer and pop them into the oven on a lightly oiled baking sheet.

The best way to freeze them is on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Prepare and freeze as directed, then transfer them to a zip-close plastic bag for longer storage.

We’ve opted for a savory ham and cheese scone, but for a sweet variety increase the sugar to 1/3 cup, add a teaspoon of vanilla extract and stir in 1 1/2 cups of your choice of chopped dried fruit and nuts. A handful of chocolate chips wouldn’t be bad, either.

Ham and Cheese Scones

Serves: 8

Preparation: 1 hour (plus freezing time)

2 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons sugar

4 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

10 tablespoons (1 stick plus 2 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted

8 ounces (2 cups) shredded sharp cheddar cheese, divided

10-ounce package deli ham, chopped

1/4 cup chopped fresh chives

1 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup sour cream

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, stir together the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Drizzle in the melted butter, then stir well. Stir in 1 1/2 cups of the cheddar, the ham and chives.

In a small bowl, whisk together the cream and sour cream, then add to the dough and stir just until everything is moistened and the dough sticks together.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Using your hands, form the dough into a round that is 1-inch thick and 10 inches in diameter. Cut the round into 8 wedges, then transfer each to the prepared baking sheet. Freeze until ready to bake (at least 10 minutes).

When ready to bake, heat the oven to 375°. Ensure that the scones are evenly spaced on the baking sheet, leaving several inches between them. Sprinkle the scones with the remaining cheese. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden and slightly firm. Cool slightly on the pan. Serve warm.

Per serving: 560 calories; 38 g fat; 125 mg cholesterol; 40 g carbohydrate; 19 g protein; 1 g fiber; 840 mg sodium

Juju Armenia and her cousin, River Schnirman, decorate a tray of cookies. (Libby Volgyes / Palm Beach Post)

This Christmas, baking means a little bit more to West Palm Beach mom and food blogger Lora Giorgi as she reflects back on last year’s Christmas break, when she was diagnosed with cancer on the first day her kids were out of school. She remembers turning to baking to help her get through it.

"It’s the most dark part of anyone’s life," she remembers. "I baked every single day. It was insane – I didn’t stop baking. I took out my fears on my dough."

After two months of a painful recovery, she spent the summer in Italy with her family, living and eating and trying to heal the emotional scars, as well as the fear. While there, her baking blog, cakeduchess.com, celebrated its first birthday. She had started the blog months before her diagnosis. In fact, it was a friend’s minor health scare that gave her a reality check and set the blog into motion.

"I always wanted to (start the blog) – to put my recipes in a safe place. You never know, life is so short. If I don’t start writing these recipes, how will Gabriella (her daughter) remember we did it?"

And there are so many recipes to record. The daughter of a Hungarian mother and a Sicilian father who had a restaurant in Boynton Beach, Giorgi spent part of her childhood in Sicily. Her husband, Italian-born Fabrizio Giorgi, is the co-owner and executive chef at Café Sapori.

Today, her blog, a treasury of pastry recipes and culinary musings, is home to a thriving community – it got more than 70,000 hits in November. More importantly, it’s a great excuse for Giorgi to bake with her children, 10-year-old Gabriella and 5-year-old son Luca.

On a recent day, the family’s kitchen is transformed into the neighborhood cookie headquarters, as relatives and neighbors cut, roll, bake and nibble on home-made confections.

Giorgi and best friend Marisa Schnirman watch over the six kids, helping where needed, guiding little hands making big creations. The table is dotted with Nutella, jam, flour, two types of sugar, cookie cutters, baking soda, bowls of dough, decorations, knives, pastry bags and of course, waiting nearby, a plate of warm, freshly baked cookies just waiting to be decorated.

Lora Giorgi (right) bakes with her son Luca, 5, and daughter Gabriella, 10. (Libby Volgyes / Palm Beach Post)

In the controlled chaos of it all, Giorgi helps her daughter create pasta frolla, Italian shortbread pastry dough that will be filled, some with Nutella, others with jam. Meanwhile, Luca tries his hand at cutting out sugar cookies.

Nearby, things aren’t going exactly according to plan for some of the younger bakers, struggling with uncooperative dough. Neighbor Oceanna Schnirman, 13, knows what’s wrong, and she swoops into the rescue.

"You put in too much flour. It’s hard to work with," says Oceanna, already an experienced baker and holiday cooking pro.

It’s her fourth year doing this and she’s knowledgeable about exactly what needs to be done. Quickly, and with a bit of muscle, she rolls out the dough and supplies the kids with plastic wrap so they won’t need more flour.

Her cousin, Roma Armenia, accidentally drops some cookie dough and scoops it up before anyone notices. It’s only her first year helping, as she’s visiting her cousins from Tampa.

"But my grandpa, he makes cookies and my grandma, she does, too. So I have a little skill," she says as she cuts out cookie after cookie.

The many bakers of Giorgi’s kitchen work happily amid scattered flour and sugar, dough scraps and cookie cutters, replicating a scene that plays out in kitchens all over the country through the month of December, a scene starring grandmas, children, grandchildren, sticky fingers, lopsided candy cane cutouts. Somewhere between the cloud of dough flying over the table and the sprinkles being knocked over the floor, wonderful memories are created.

BACI DI DAMA — LADIES’ KISSES

Makes: approximately 20 cookies

8 ounces all-purpose flour
8 ounces almond flour
8 ounces butter, room temperature
8 ounces sugar
13 ounce jar of Nutella

Place all the ingredients in a large mixing bowl. With the mixer on medium speed (or by hand), combine all the ingredients until homogenous. Wrap the ball of dough in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator to chill for an hour.

Remove the chilled, firm dough from the refrigerator, and preheat the oven to 325 degrees; line baking sheets with parchment paper. Remove plastic wrap from the dough and place on a lightly floured work surface.

Divide the dough into 3 pieces and work with one piece of dough at a time, keeping the other pieces wrapped and refrigerated. Break off small pieces of the dough and roll into 1-inch balls.

Place the balls 1 inch apart on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough until you have 40 balls (to make 20 sandwiches).

Bake for about 15-18 minutes, or until lightly browned on the bottom. Let stand on baking sheet 2 minutes.

Allow cookies to cool on parchment paper that has been removed from baking sheet to a heat-proof surface. Cool completely.

Fill a pastry bag with a tip (about ½-inch-wide hole). Pipe the Nutella on the flat side (bottom) of cookie and top with another cookie gently pressing together (the cookie sandwich should be bottom to bottom with rounded sides on the outside).

The cookies may be stored, layered between sheets of parchment, in an airtight container kept in a cool place, for up to 3 days.