The root vegetable-crusted black grouper, with fire-roasted peppers, fried yuca and a mango and lobster sugarcane gastrique is $30 at Verdea. (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

From the deliciously crunchy root vegetable breadcrumbs to the soft, local black grouper, the fish is definitely the main attraction on this plate, served on a tower of fried yuca and surrounded by a sweet sugarcane broth with large chunks of meaty lobster, ripe mango and a hint of red pepper spice.

Verdea’s new executive chef, David Welch, who took over for chef James King in December, has drawn upon his years working in Miami kitchens and his Puerto Rican and Jamaican roots.

“If I have a signature dish, this is it, “he says, “There are so many different techniques in the dish, it can’t be classified in one cuisine. In Miami, all the different cultures fuse. I wanted to make something really unusual and it just works.”

THE INFO: Verdea serves dinner from 6:30 to 10 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday with a discounted happy hour menu from 5 to 7 p.m. in the Embassy Suites at 4350 PGA Blvd., Palm Beach Gardens. Phone: (561) 691-3130. Website: verdearestaurant.com

VALENTINE’S DAY AT VERDEA: This dish is also on the sumptuous menu Chef Welch is preparing for Verdea’s four-course Valentine’s dinner Tuesday. Selections include a shellfish bouquet or grilled churrasco and Manchego starter, a second course of pistachio-crusted lamb lollipops or tamarind-rubbed ahi tuna “cigarillos,” a mango and Szechuan peppercorn sorbet intermezzo, a third course of roasted quail or this black grouper and a finale of mascarpone-filled banana ravioli in a 20-year port reduction. Served from 6:30 to 10 p.m., dinner is $85 per person ($95 with wine pairings).

The kimchi-glazed Chilean sea bass at the Buddha Sky Bar is $34. (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

Executive chef Tony Torres has hit the mark with this simple but delicious dish. Part of Buddha Sky Bar’s new winter menu, the 8-ounce Chilean sea bass is seared in a hot pan for a crisp exterior and a moist, flaky interior, lightly touched with a sweet and salty kimchi glaze with a hint of spice.

“I’ve always loved the kimchi flavor,” says Torres, a Palm Beach County native who studied at Florida Culinary Institute (now Lincoln Culinary Institute), “but I wanted to mix it up with Italian and French ingredients.”

The Italian influence comes in the form of a deliciously creamy edamame risotto made with a hint of saffron and Boursin cheese. Then there are the haricots verts, or French green beans, that are wok-fried with a Chinese-style sauce of preserved mustard and pickled turnips. “The flavor of that sauce goes so well with the risotto,” says Torres. “The flavors were all made separately first and then I put them together.”

THE INFO: Buddha Sky Bar, at 217 East Atlantic Ave. in Delray Beach, serves dinner nightly from 5 to 11 p.m. and a late-night sushi menu until 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. There’s also a half-price happy hour menu from 5 to 6 p.m. nightly. (561) 450-7557. buddhaskybar.com | Directions, invite a friend

The lobster roll ($25) is one of Kabuki's signature dishes (Thomas Cordy / Palm Beach Post)

The Japanese art form of kabuki tells vivid stories through dance and theatrical performance. On Clematis Street in downtown West Palm, the new sushi and Thai tapas spot named Kabuki expresses its theatrical storylines on the plate.

Fresh, decadent sushi rolls — with names like Sugar Mama, Lava Drops and The Chick — are vibrantly presented. Soul-satisfying Thai noodles and curry dishes arrive in abundant portions. The bar pours some sexy cocktails, in addition to a selection of sakes, wines and beers.

Opened just two months ago, Kabuki is enjoying a well-deserved amount of Clematis Street heat, with its weeknights bustling and weekends remarkably busy. On my first visit to the stylishly set eatery, I found the place hopping. It was one of those very chilly nights during a recent cold snap, a Tuesday at that. Yet the place was alive with diners chattering against up-tempo tunes.

Directions, invite a friend

On that night, it was love at first bite for me — first bite, that is, of a 561 Ocean roll ($8, half roll), fresh diced tuna, cucumber, avocado and Japanese omelet in a light soy paper wrap. When dipped in the accompanying spicy ponzu sauce, the super-fresh, clean flavors just popped.

That roll shared space on our table with a couple of dynamite tapas. A pan-seared mini crab cake ($9), filled with lots of delicious crab and served with a kaffir lime leaf-scented panang curry sauce, offered an out-of-this-world bite. Ditto for a dish of beautifully pan-seared scallops ($9) arrived nestled in an orange reduction, with crisp bacon, edamame, sweet corn and baby carrots.

We sampled a couple of the eatery’s Thai dishes that night and came away with the feeling that there must be a Thai chef in the kitchen because the dishes were surprisingly delectable. (As it turns out, there are two Thai chefs in Kabuki’s kitchen, working alongside a Japanese chef, a manager told me this week.)

The shrimp pad Thai ($16) offered large, tender shrimp in a tangle of rice noodles tossed in sweet peanut goodness with scallions and bean sprouts. Though teetering on the sweet side, the pad Thai sang in lovely harmony.

At the recommendation of our friendly server, we also ordered a chicken in a coconut-rich, red curry sauce ($14) fragrant with Thai basil. It, too, was quite delicious, although it was overly laden with bamboo shoots.

Kabuki was hopping when I returned on a recent Friday night. Diners filled the eatery’s sidewalk tables as well as the tables, booths and sushi bar inside. On a Friday night, it feels as if Clematis’ own brand of kabuki theater is happening outside, as diners and club-goers shuffle through an invigorated scene. Just across the street, a new wine bar (the Wine Dive) is well populated. All promising signs that, despite the recent closings of Luigi’s and Bahama Mama’s, Clematis Street remains the liveliest street hub on downtown’s dining scene.

To reflect the street’s party mood, we ordered a Passion Berry Caipirinha ($10). Reflecting a backlog in orders, and service that is still a bit disjointed on weekend nights, the cocktail took a while in reaching us. When it did, it was delightful, a zingy drink infused with fresh raspberries and Brazilian cachaça.

The cocktail lent a fresh contrast to our Tempura Tapa ($9) starter dish of battered and fried shrimp, onion, sweet potato, broccoli and zucchini – all tender inside, crispy outside.

Next came a couple of appetizing rolls: a small, seaweed-wrapped salmon maki roll ($5) with buttery salmon bits and scallion, and a daimyo roll ($7, half roll), filled with chunks of yellowtail, tuna, salmon, avocado, scallion, smelt roe and a dab of wasabi mayo.

Like most of the dishes at Kabuki, the rolls go to the heart of the eatery’s quickly garnered popularity. They’re fresh, mainstream fare, accessible to a broad range of palates. Yes, this is a place with a good many tempura-meets-cream-cheese rolls. But it does what it does well.

Well, most of the time. Kabuki’s signature pineapple fried rice ($20), a curry-tinged rice with chicken, shrimp, vegetables, cashews and raisins, artfully served in a scooped-out pineapple shell, was not nearly as fluffy as the simple house fried rice ($2 with an entree). For all its dramatic staging, the rice was unevenly cooked.

However, the very mainstream (and demurely presented) salmon teriyaki ($20), a delectably moist Scottish salmon fillet lacquered sweetly and pungently, was one of our best bites of the night.

R E V I E W

Kabuki

FOOD: A-

SERVICE: B

ADDRESS: 308 Clematis St., West Palm Beach

TELEPHONE: (561) 833-6349

WEBSITE: kabukiwpb.com

PRICE RANGE: Moderate

HOURS: Open Sunday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday to midnight.

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Accepted; walk-ins welcome

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, including restrooms

WHAT THE GRADES

MEAN:

A

Bellagio's Salmone A Letto is $23.95 for the dinner portion and $15.95 for the lunch portion (which is called Salmon alla Florentina). (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

Sometimes the simplest dishes are the best. A fresh filet of salmon, thin-sliced and expertly seared, dressed with an Italian first cold press extra-virgin olive oil, crispy, fragrant garlic and fresh herbs, served over a bed of sautéed spinach with sliced potato and crisp green beans. It’s simple and it’s delicious.

The key to the dish is getting that perfect sear on the fish so that the exterior is crisp while the interior stays moist. In his 26 years with the Billante family restaurant group, Il Bellagio executive chef Pauli Johnston has perfected that technique.

“To make good food you have to have good ingredients,” says Johnston. “It’s a dish that’s done quick in a searing hot pan with extra-virgin olive oil. We have a range with 48 burners and there’s always a hot skillet.”

THE INFO: Il Bellagio serves breakfast from 8 to 11 a.m., lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., and dinner from 4 to 11 p.m. seven days a week at 600 S. Rosemary Ave. (CityPlace) in downtown West Palm Beach. Phone: (561) 659-6160.

The Grilla Thrilla ($20) combines filet mignon, shrimp and chicken on one plate. (Brandon Kruse / Palm Beach Post)

When Lee Harrison needed to add an item to his menu last year, he created the dish he now describes as a “menage a trois” and has become a favorite among regulars of his Blue Anchor British Pub & Restaurant.

The Grilla Thrilla, which Harrison says is quite a detour from the pub’s staple of fish and chips, features a trio of grilled entrees, including filet mignon, shrimp, and chicken breast, which are served on a bed of fresh sautéed spinach. The dish is then finished and served with the restaurant’s homemade shrimp scampi sauce.

“The filet sells well, and the shrimp sells well, so we put both on a bed of fresh spinach and tossed it to an unsuspecting crowd,” says Harrison, the owner of Blue Anchor. “They loved it.”

Harrison recommends pairing the dish with the house red wine, a Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, and said the English sherry truffle dessert, which is served with Devonshire custard, is a perfect complement.

THE INFO: Blue Anchor British Pub & Restaurant, which serves British and American dishes, Anchor is located at 804 E. Atlantic Ave. in Delray Beach. The restaurant is open from 11:30 a.m. until 11 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and opens at noon on Sunday. Drinks are served until 2 a.m. seven days a week. Phone: (561) 272-7272. | Directions, invite a friend

Cafe Boulud's red venison dish is $42. (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

The dish: Roasted New Zealand red venison with poached quince, butternut squash fondant, brussels sprouts, and a chesnut and venison tourte with a “Grand Veneur” sauce, $42

The restaurant: Café Boulud, Palm Beach

Executive Chef Jim Leiken shows off his New England roots with this cornucopia of winter flavors. The veteran chef worked in Boulud’s New York restaurants for the past 10 years before taking over Boulud Palm Beach in June. 

Leiken says the inspiration for this dish came from the winter season in New York. “Now you can get a lot of great wild game. When that’s available, I like to show it off. This is a very classic fall dish with venison, root vegetables and quince. Growing up in New England, we had a quince bush in the back yard. I never knew what to do with it, but now I know.”

Does he ever! The dish has a lovely balance of savory and moist lean venison, earthy  root vegetables, and a sweet element from the huckleberry jus, poached quince and a hint of orange in the tourte. That tourte is my favorite part of the dish – a juicy meatball of ground venison and chicken liver surrounded by a crisp, airy puff pastry. Excellent execution. Utterly delicious.

More information: Café Boulud serves breakfast daily from 7 to 11 a.m., lunch Monday to Friday from 12 to 2:30 p.m. and dinner from 5:30 to 10 p.m. There is brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. The restaurant is in the Brazilian Court hotel, 301 Australian Ave., Palm Beach. Phone: (561) 655-6060 | Directions, invite a friend

The Wine Dive's 'Kick Ass' Cupcake is $8. (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

It’s dark heavenly chocolate with a kick of spice in this yummy dessert offering at the newly opened Wine Dive just next to Roxy’s on Clematis Street.

An espresso and chocolate molten cake is cooked at a high heat so the exterior is crisp while the interior of the cake stays soft and delightfully gooey, topped with a homemade Godiva chocolate and caramel ice cream and a Marcona almond tuile. The kick is in a swath of dark chocolate and chipotle pepper ganache that anchors the plate – deep and rich with a warm tingle on the finish. The plate is decorated with espresso jelly squares, cocoa whipped cream and fresh fruit. The combination of flavors and textures is truly a party on the palate.

“I originally created it a few years ago as a Valentine’s Day dessert to spice things up for the evening,” says executive chef Curtis Hillard, originally from Ohio and more recently the chef/partner at Meritage NuVo in Atlanta. For the wine lover, Hillard suggests pairing the dessert with a red zinfandel, the juicy fruit and spicy notes in the wine is a perfect complement to his spicy chocolate creation.

THE INFO: The Wine Dive, at 319 Clematis Street in West Palm Beach, serves lunch from 11:30 to 3 p.m. Monday to Saturday and dinner nightly from 4 to 10:30 p.m. There’s also a late night menu from 10:30 p.m. to 2 a.m. nightly and a Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Phone: (561) 318-8821. | Directions, invite a friend

Chef Allen Susser has a slew of burger choices at Palm Beach Gardens' new BurgerBar. (Taylor Jones / Palm Beach Post)

As upscale burger joints go, BurgerBar by Chef Allen is a looker. The sexy modern color scheme mixes blacks and deep charcoals with great pops of red. The wood floors and reclaimed-wood table tops add warmth to a chic-casual spot where the chairs are garbage-can metal (nifty, recycled, but not so comfy).

Printed boldly on one chalkboard-black wall, the menu is a sight to behold as well, teasing a newcomer with tempting offerings from braised pork belly sliders to anisette-glazed chicken wings, Nutella bourbon shakes and a spicy, oozy burger that goes by the name The (Hot, Delicious) Mess.

Add to these hipster foodie trappings the culinary weight of a James Beard Award-winning chef like Allen Susser, one of the original Mango Gang members, and you’ve got quite the promising package. You’ve also got tremendous expectations going into a place like this. I know I did.

Directions, invite a friend

So maybe it was the expectation that I’d be wowed by BurgerBar that left me feeling underwhelmed by my recent visit to the Palm Beach Gardens eatery that opened barely two months ago with a red-carpet, VIP bash complete with girls in gold glitter body paint.

The first taste of disappointment arrived with our house-made onion dip appetizer ($5) – a mound of homemade potato chips. While appropriately thin and crispy, the chips arrived tepid and decidedly under-seasoned (if at all). The dip itself lacked any intensity of flavor. It was simply a nice, sweetly mild dip.

On the other hand, our Vidalia Onion Tower ($6) proved to be statuesque, a stack of three crispy-breaded onion rings (more than an inch thick apiece) served with a delicious, intriguingly spicy homemade ranch dipping sauce. That sauce was one of the highlights of our meal.

Then came a mixed lot of burgers:

• A delightful Kobe beef slider ($6.50), dressed in melted Gruyere, homemade ketchup and tangy picked onion. It was a perfect slider, a wallop of flavor packed into a few bites.
• A disappointing prime steak burger ($17), served with grilled mushrooms, smothered onions, homemade steak sauce and Gruyere cheese. This was a thick and deeply flavorful burger, but it arrived with a fatal flaw: the patty was broken. Somewhere along the way, be it the cooking or serving process, the hand-patted burger came apart. But it was served anyway, and half of it tumbled out of the bun when lifted. Not so prime. A 17-buck burger should not fall apart.
• A spicy tuna burger ($15), served with diced avocado, arugula, pickled onions and sesame seeds. I ordered this burger rare, a good call. The sushi-grade tuna steak, buttery soft, picked up the peppery notes of the arugula, the pickled goodness of the onions and the sparkle of chef Allen’s citrus-ginger sauce. It is in such a mix of flavor notes that Susser’s inspiration is best detected.

In theory, the chef’s fusion influences are all over the menu, its language and intent. In practice, there’s not enough of chef Allen when it comes to consistency and quality control. Case in point: The kitchen ran out of fries. (This was a Sunday night, about 8 p.m.) Our server informed us of this as our burgers were brought to the table. We could either wait 10 more minutes for the hand-cut fries or we could opt for a wedge of iceberg with a house vinaigrette. We decided on one order of fries and one iceberg salad. The fries arrived a bit sooner than expected, but they had been rushed – they were cooked through, but soft.

The fry shortage was not the server’s fault, of course, but someone could have let us know before our burgers were served.

And on the topic of service: We should have been offered small plates for appetizer sharing. Instead, our starters were placed in the middle of the table, making them unwieldy and difficult to eat. We had to ask for the plates. A minor thing, yes, but not an unreasonable gesture to ask of a place that offers a Gold Burger topped with 23-carat edible gold leaf ($25) and a "high roller" bottle of Dom Perignon with a couple of burgers for $195.

Granted, the joint is lively and popular. Diners chatter against a backdrop of up-tempo tunes that filter past an enormous floor-to-ceiling photograph of a couple racing away on a vintage motorcycle and a decorative divider wall showcasing a repetition of meat grinders.

It’s a whimsical place with adult shakes, old-fashioned floats and yummy, retro desserts, like a big red velvet cupcake served a la mode ($7) and a burnt marshmallow s’mores ($7) parfait that’s ridiculously good and gooey.

BurgerBar’s concept is terrific and it has the makings of a successful dining spot – the menu, the décor, the chef inspiration. Perhaps it will evolve into a truly great burger joint. But right now it’s a little like that prime burger – promising, flavorful, but not quite hanging together. Not yet.

BurgerBar by Chef Allen

FOOD: B

SERVICE: B

ADDRESS: 4650 Donald Ross Road, Palm Beach Gardens (in Donald Ross Village)

TELEPHONE: (561) 630-4545

WEBSITE: burgerbar.com

PRICE RANGE: Moderate

HOURS: Open daily for lunch, dinner and drinks

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: yes

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, including restrooms

WHAT THE GRADES

MEAN:

A – Excellent

B – Good

C – Average

D – Poor

F – Don’t bother

Two hard shell tacos with rice and beans are $7 at The Taco Lady (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

THE DISH: Two hard shell tacos with rice and beans, $7

THE RESTAURANT: The Taco Lady, Lake Worth

They had me at the shells. Those light, supremely crispy corn tortilla shells made daily by mom and daughter team Elizabeth and Maria Martinez. For 10 years, these shells have wooed loyal customers to come back time and again to Elizabeth Martinez’ little hole-in-the-wall shop, The Taco Lady, on North L Street, between Lake and Lucerne in downtown Lake Worth.

"We started with no menu and no phone," says chef/owner Elizabeth Martinez, "we tried out all kinds of things and kept what worked."

Well, the tacos definitely work. Based on family recipes from Mexico and Puerto Rico, those crisp shells come filled with a choice of fresh meat options like ground beef cooked in a blend of seasonings, or slow roasted shredded beef, pork or chicken. Top that with lettuce, tomato, onion, shredded cheese, tomato salsa and sour cream and add a choice of yellow, brown, Mexican or white rice and refried or black beans. There’s also a super-secret special sauce Martinez makes for "special people" who like it hot.

THE INFO: The Taco Lady serves these crispy tacos and more from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Saturday at 7 N L Street in Lake Worth. The restaurant is closed Sundays. Phone: (561) 588-3638 | Directions, invite a friend

Veal medallions with prosciutto-wrapped shrimp and sweet pea risotto. (Taylor Jones / Palm Beach Post)

There’s a great little surprise of an eatery tucked between a Staples and a multiplex cinema in a busy Jupiter strip plaza. Samantha’s American Cuisine sits unassumingly, but certainly not unnoticed.

The 7-year-old restaurant is bustling on weekends with regulars who can’t get enough of Samantha’s signature dishes, all generously portioned. On a recent visit, I came to realize what keeps bringing them back to this cozy spot.

The allure isn’t just one dish or one nightly special, but a seamless experience of fresh, well prepared, beautifully presented food and attentive service. Whether you’re seated at the al fresco patio or inside at the bar or in either of Samantha’s two small dining rooms, your experience begins with a soul-warming touch: a basket of warm and crusty baguette-style bread and a dipping dish of garlic-scented, Parmesan sprinkled olive oil.

If this is your first visit, your next dish absolutely should be the house’s signature crusted calamari with roasted crispy portobello, basil, lemon, sweet cherry peppers and chef/owner Edward Bonsignore Jr.’s famous “twisted tomato scampi” ($11). As calamari apps go, this is one deliciously blinged-out rendition: the calamari, tender inside its crisp-fried crust, is tossed lightly with a garlicky, lemony sauce that’s deepened by a few crushed tomatoes and the pop of pickled mild cherry peppers.

Chef Ed Bonsignore

The light, yet luscious weight of the sauce in this dish quickly revealed the sauce philosophy of Bonsignore and fellow chef Anthony Muolo. The sauce serves to accent, not obscure or hide the dish. I found this to be true in the dishes I sampled that quite busy Friday night. Even on our shared salad of baby greens, diced pear, toasted-spiced walnuts, gorgonzola and endive ($8), the raspberry vinaigrette barely kissed the lovely composition, allowing the walnuts to remain toasty fresh and the greens to remain crisp.

Later, a grilled center cut veal rib chop arrived (on the bone) with a judicious side of porcini mushroom sauce, creamy mushroom risotto and garlic braised spinach ($38). Thick, juicy and grilled to a perfect medium-rare-ish finish, the hefty chop stood proudly as the dish’s star ingredient.

Also stellar was the Maine lobster tail over linguini with a trio of clams, shrimp and black mussels, in an ultra-light seafood-tomato sauce ($34). Here, the shellfish stood out in plump, fresh, tender glory in a pasta fragrant with roasted garlic and sweet basil.

And we sampled Samantha’s crab crusted grouper ($30) served in a sauce of fresh tomato, garlic, lemon and white wine. This was a dish that struck the perfect balance – not too rich, not too saucy – because the lemon-wine sauce played contrast to the (super-fresh) grouper’s crab crust.

A meal this delicious needs a moment or two of grateful reflection. Our efficient and affable server did his best to make us feel unrushed. However, just after dessert, he did warn us that several other tables were wrapping up their meals and our check might take a while if we didn’t request it soon. His best intentions were set back by the blur of departing and incoming diners, and we did have to wait a good 15 minutes or so to wrap things up.

In the meantime, we did have dessert, namely the house’s homemade bread pudding, to linger over. Served warm with fresh sliced bananas and berries, this is the chef’s grandmother’s recipe, a pudding of rustic bread that soaks in custard for two days before baking. So simple and delicious, as was everything we sampled that night.

Samantha’s

FOOD: A

SERVICE: A minus

ADDRESS: 201 N U.S. 1, No. 9, (at Indiantown Road), Jupiter | Directions, invite a friend

TELEPHONE: (561) 743-0801

PRICE RANGE: Moderate to expensive

HOURS: Monday through Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Strongly recommended, but walk-ins welcome

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, including restrooms

WHAT THE GRADES

MEAN:

A – Excellent

B – Good

C – Average

D – Poor

F – Don’t bother

The Cottage's salmon stuffed with crabmeat special sells for $21.95. (Brandon Kruse / Palm Beach Post)

The dish: Salmon stuffed with crabmeat dinner special. Paired with red skin potato garlic mash, sautéed asparagus and thinly sliced onion straws. The dish sells for $21.95.

The restaurant: The Cottage, Lake Worth

Although chef Alfred Gaymes revamped his menu at The Cottage in Lake Worth two months ago, it is the salmon stuffed with crabmeat dinner special that has been their biggest crowd pleaser.

“There was such a demand for it, so we just decided to do it as a special every night,” said Gaymes.

The crabmeat is sewn into the salmon and finished in the oven. Gaymes then covers the filet with a caper and lemon beurre blanc that adds a salty complement to the sweet crab. “The sauce is so strong, it really brings out the whole dish,” said Gaymes. “It’s rare to find a freshwater dish with such strong flavor.”

THE INFO: The Cottage, 522 Lucerne Ave. Phone: (561) 586-0080. Serves breakfast starting at 8 a.m. daily, and dinner from 5 p.m. to 12 p.m. Sun.-Thu. and from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Fri. and Sat.

Kabuki's Mango Tango Roll is $7 for a half roll (5-6 pieces) or $13 for a full roll (10-12 pieces). (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

More information: Crispy tempura-fried Izumedai, a farm-raised Japanese fish similar to snapper, meets fresh cucumber, scallions and roe, wrapped in fluffy white rice and topped with a homemade spicy mayo and slices of sweet mango. The roll is light, healthy and a great combination of flavors and textures.

The roll is a favorite of Kabuki’s executive chef, Kobe Sou Lakmaitree, who loves tempering a slightly spicy sauce with the sweetness of fresh, tropical fruit. “I wanted something dancing,” he says, referring to his playful name for the roll, “but I just wanted a soft dance.”

Kabuki serves authentic Japanese and Thai cuisine from 11:30 a.m. until 11 p.m. daily and until 2 a.m. Thursday through Saturday at 308 Clematis St. in West Palm Beach. Phone: (561) 833-6349 | Directions, invite a friend

Tuna tartare is $15 at Ironwood Steak & Seafood. (Libby Volgyes / Palm Beach Post)

Many restaurants serve a tuna tartare, all with many of the same ingredients. But I’ve never had one complete with a dropper of ponzu sauce to sprinkle over each bite.

Ironwood Steak & Seafood at PGA National Resort & Spa has a new menu intent on taking classic steak house dishes and reinventing them with a delicious twist.

Take the tuna tartare, beautiful cubes of fresh tuna, bites of avocado, pickled onions, citrus, jalapeño and crispy wontons, all served on a bibb lettuce cup.

“It’s a classic steak house item, but done in a modern way,” explains Executive Chef Gordon Maybury. “It almost becomes a tuna lettuce wrap.”

Sprinkled around the plate is a drizzle of soy and drops of sriracha. And the most eye-catching detail — a dropper filled with ponzu sauce.

THE INFO: Ironwood Steak & Seafood at PGA National Resort & Spa, 400 Avenue of the Champions in Palm Beach Gardens, is open for dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Phone: (561) 627-4852. Website: PGAResort.com. | Directions, invite a friend

The Pelican's lamb keena omelet is $14.95. (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

There’s nothing like a little spice to wake up in the morning, and that’s exactly what diners at The Pelican Restaurant can expect from one of their Indian breakfasts: the lamb keema omelet.

Chef/owner Iqbal Sami slow-cooks ground lamb in a special blend of Indian seasonings and red curry sauce for the perfect blend of savory and spice. “It must cook at least three to four hours,” he says, “you have to give the spices time.”

That delicious lamb is used as a filling, surrounded by a light and fluffy four-egg omelet, topped with feta, tomato and cilantro and served with a generous portion of home fried potatoes and a traditional Indian yogurt-based sauce called raita.

THE INFO: The Pelican Restaurant serves breakfast from 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily and lunch from11:30 a.m. to 2 pm Monday to Saturday. Sunday is breakfast only. The restaurant also serves a traditional Indian dinner menu on Friday evenings from 5 to 9 p.m. at 610 Lake Ave. in Lake Worth. Phone: (561) 582-4992. | Directions, invite a friend

DDD (Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives) Fish Tacos are $9 for two at Havana Hideout. (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

Sweet pineapple salsa, savory homemade chipotle coleslaw and just a hint of spice from the achiote-rubbed tilapia, Havana Hideout’s “two-handed” fish tacos are fresh and delicious.

The tacos were featured among other Havana Hideout specialties on Guy Fieri’s Food Network show, “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives,” back in 2009 and have been on the menu ever since.

“They’re clean, fresh and made to order,” says Shelly Jent, a former Havana Hideout employee who recently bought the restaurant with two business partners from the previous owner, Chrissy Benoit.

“The pineapple salsa adds a tropical side to the dish and appeals to the atmosphere and vibe we are trying to put out here.”

THE INFO: Havana Hideout, at 509 Lake Avenue in Lake Worth, is open for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday and until midnight on Friday and Saturday. The bar stays open until 2 a.m. nightly. Phone: (561) 585-8444. | Directions, invite a friend

The vegetarian lasagna at Howley's is $11.95. (Libby Volgyes / Palm Beach Post)

As vegetarianism or the concept of “meatless Mondays” grows, turn to Howley’s Restaurant for a delectable vegetarian option.

Listed on its menu, near the famous crab cakes, is a delicious and huge serving of vegetarian lasagna. The lasagna is layered with black beans, corn and ricotta, all on a bed of spinach.

“What makes the difference is the black beans and corn,” says managing partner James Brady. “When they try it, they love it.”

This dish is a delicious value and big enough for leftovers. The serving of lasagna is substantial and hearty with an extra kick of protein from the black beans. And it has all the cheesy goodness you expect from a big, steaming plate of lasagna.

THE INFO: Howley’s, at 4700 S. Dixie Highway in West Palm Beach, is open from Sunday through Thursday from 7 a.m. to 2 a.m., and Friday and Saturday from 7 a.m. to 5 a.m. Phone: (561) 833-5691. |

The interior dining room of Cha Cha's restaurant off of Worth Avenue in Palm Beach. (Richard Graulich/The Palm Beach Post)

Cubans, we’re particular about some things, including our food and music. So we assume a place that calls itself Cha Cha’s pays homage to the island where the cha cha cha was born.

But Cha Cha’s is just a funky name for the new tapas eatery in the 150 Worth Ave. shopping complex in Palm Beach. It may take its name from a Cuban dance, but it takes its culinary inspiration from Spain and Mexico and a fusion of Latin cultures. It’s more Mediterranean than it is Caribbean.

Directions, invite a friend

Cuban lapse aside, Cha Cha’s is a picturesque spot where the sweetly mismatched décor mirrors an eclectic menu. Locals buzz at the tequila bar where a shot of Don Julio 1942 goes for $30 and flows in the company of 15 other tequilas, in addition to Brazilian caipirinhas, dark rum mojitos, hearty Spanish reds, Mexican beer and a sriracha-laced concoction called El Diablo.

Perched on the second-floor space once occupied by Trevini Ristorante, the two-month-old Cha Cha’s has quickly become a festive meeting spot in an unlikely setting. And with offerings such as empanadas, Spanish charcuterie and house-made Mexican corn tortillas, the menu is promising.

The dishes themselves, however, are hit and miss.

(Richard Graulich/The Palm Beach Post)

There are hits like the portobello verde tacos with green tomatillo sauce and cotija cheese ($4). The meaty and substantial mushrooms seem to melt into the hand-patted tortillas and are brightened by the fresh tomatillo sauce. It was our favorite bite of the night.

There are hits like the cauliflower gratin, a satisfying take on the now-ubiquitous veggie – here it’s baked with Manchego, fennel and toasty bread crumbs ($7).

These were two of the dishes that arrived on our Chef’s Tasting Menu ($27 per person for four small dishes each), a chef’s choice of nibbles that offer a first-time guest a quick tour of Cha Cha’s tapas.

Another hit in the wave of dishes: the grilled calamari with garbanzos, Spanish ham and grilled bread ($9 if ordered separately). The squid ringlets arrived perfectly grilled, tender and plentiful.

We wanted to try the short rib quesadilla, but the kitchen had run out. Instead, our efficient, friendly server brought us a beef empanada with a tomatillo salsa ($4, if ordered separately), a serviceable beef patty, but not a must-have dish.

(Richard Graulich/The Palm Beach Post)

Misses aside, we found the Chef’s Tasting Menu to be an ideal intro to Cha Cha’s. Just like the culinary style here, there’s no dogma to the tasting menu – we were allowed to make requests and let the server know when we were ready for another round of dishes. In our final round, he gave us the option to choose dessert or more tapas. (More tapas, por favor.)

On a future visit, I’d like to try one of the larger plates, either a paella Valenciana ($35 for two to three people) or a mixed seafood grill served Spanish style ($45).

Despite the few misses we experienced, I found Cha Cha’s to be a welcoming spot with plenty of dining options.

The easy hospitality speaks to the success and restaurant savvy of the Coniglio family, which co-owns the place (along with its popular sister establishments, Cucina dell’arte and Nick & Johnnie’s on the island and E.R. Bradley’s across the bridge).

The tapas concept speaks to the well-deserved success of nearby Buccan bistro, the island’s “it” spot, a veritable shrine to small plates. While Cha Cha’s doesn’t come close to Buccan’s culinary finesse, it does offer a genial space to sip a glass of tempranillo and have a nibble – or four.

Cha Cha’s

FOOD: B

SERVICE: B+

INFO: 150 Worth Ave., Suite 234 (second floor, east end of complex), Palm Beach (561) 833-8800

PRICE RANGE: Moderate to expensive

HOURS: Open daily from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. (kitchen closes at 10 p.m.)

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Yes, but walk-ins welcome

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, including restrooms

WHAT THE GRADES

MEAN:

A – Excellent

B – Good

C – Average

D – Poor

F – Don’t bother

Bresaola in a truffle cream sauce and an eggplant timbale. $23.50 at Rustico Italiano in Lake Worth. (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

Italian chef/owner Nino Annunziata traveled his home country to bring these two distinct items from two different regions together on one plate.

“The bresaola is a dish you will only find in Northern Italy near the Swiss border. This is a traditional dish. It’s what Italians eat,” he explains, pointing to one side of the plate. Thin slices of imported Italian dry cured beef surround asparagus, arugula and asiago cheese, smothered in a light truffle cream sauce and spiced with black pepper.

Placed next to the bresaola is a classic southern dish, a thinly sliced eggplant timbale filled with Parmesan, mozzarella and basil in a light tomato and basil sauce. This vegetarian dish is light and flavorful, the bresaola is rich and savory. The two together? Delizioso!

The bresaola and eggplant timbale are offered as a dinner special.

THE INFO: Rustico Italiano is open nightly from 5 to 10 p.m. at 701 Lucerne Ave., Lake Worth. Phone: (561) 547-2782 | Directions, leave a review, invite a friend

Cafe Cellini's veal chop with risotto is $38 as part of a three-course prix fixe menu. (Libby Volgyes / Palm Beach Post)

At its heart, the veal chop with risotto at Café Cellini in Palm Beach is a simple dish expertly prepared.

“This is old school,” says executive chef Eric Morales. “It’s simple – just five ingredients on one plate making a great meal. Nothing fancy, it’s simple but just perfect.”

The large, juicy veal chop lies on top of a bed of creamy, warm risotto that’s dotted with peas and carrots. The meat is oven-roasted, then allowed to rest until ready to serve. Cooked in a cabernet reduction, it’s hearty, rustic and filling. The veal is tender and plays perfectly with the buttery risotto, resulting in a great combination of flavors. The risotto is topped with a nice pecorino, which adds depth.

“Sometimes I think it’s better to just let the food be food,” Morales says. “You could add 100 things but it doesn’t make it better, just expensive.”

THE INFO: Café Cellini is open seven days, from 5 to 10 p.m., at 2505 S. Ocean Blvd, Palm Beach. Phone: (561) 588-1871. | Directions, invite a friend

Crab cakes at the Leopard Lounge are $16. (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

The Chesterfield’s crab cakes are everything we love (moist, flavorful crab meat) without everything we hate (breading). “The cakes are about 90 percent crab meat,” says executive chef, Gerard Coughlin.

The two three-ounce cakes are molded into patties with just a bit of egg and mayonnaise to bind them, then breaded on the top and bottom and seared in clarified butter. That crisp, golden exterior gives way to a soft and meaty interior full of crab. The house-made chili-lime mayo adds just a small kick to the dish which is served with fresh greens, grape tomatoes and drizzled with basil oil. The dish could make a light lunch or an appetizer for a more serious meal.

The crab cakes are available for lunch and dinner, from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday to Thursday and until midnight on Friday and Saturday.

The restaurant is also open for breakfast daily from 7 to 10:30 a.m.

THE INFO: Leopard Lounge is at 363 Cocoanut Row, Palm Beach. Phone: (561) 659-5800. | Directions, invite a friend

Salmon 'Rockefeller' is $24.95 at Russell's Blue Water Grill. (Libby Volgyes / Palm Beach Post)

Chef Charles Coe at Russell’s Blue Water Grill in Palm Beach Gardens is known for taking a classic dish and turning it on its ear.

Take the Salmon “Rockefeller,” an item on the new menu that debuted the end of November.

“It’s not a classic approach,” says Coe, who stars in Lifetime’s Catch, Clean, Cook series. “I take classic ideas and I put my spin on it. Our clientele wants fresh food innovatively prepared. It’s fun for us, too.”

The Salmon Rockefeller features fresh wild salmon topped with sambuca creamed spinach, artichoke hearts, bacon and Romano cheeses. It’s served perched on top of melt-in-your-mouth, delectable Yukon gold mashed potatoes and fresh asparagus.

Coe says Russell’s Blue Water Grill prides itself on using only the best and freshest available ingredients. He uses organic spinach and long-stem baby artichokes that are flown in fresh from Italy. The bacon adds layers of flavor and depth and the fresh ingredients create balance and harmony while highlighting the freshness of the fish and ingredients.

THE INFO: Russell’s Blue Water Grill, at 2450 PGA Blvd. in Palm Beach Gardens, is open Monday through Thursday

11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday

11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Sunday 5 to 10 p.m. Phone: (561) 318-6344. | Directions, invite a friend

Crispy calamari and Roman artichokes are $14 at D'Angelo Trattoria. (Libby Volgyes / Palm Beach Post)

It’s that moment you take a bite and your taste buds explode in happiness that sticks with you for a while. When you do experience it, well, it’s hard to forget. The first bite of a baby Roman artichoke, nestled in a sea of perfectly fried and shockingly light calamari elicits this “wowser” response. Zippy cherry tomatoes dot the plate of this appetizer dish at D’Angelo Trattoria, located on Atlantic Avenue in Delray Beach.

The dish is fried in a combination of semolina flour and Caputo “00” Italian flour.

“It’s got a little kick when you eat the peppers,” says Executive Chef Rickie Piper. “That’s very Roman. We like a little fried vegetables with the calamari. It’s the perfect match.”

D’Angelo, which is a Roman-inspired, not Tuscan-inspired restaurant, serves this classic style of rustic Roman dishes.

The trattoria is owned by Chef Angelo Elia of the Casa D’Angelo in Boca Raton, Fort Lauderdale and the Atlantis Resort in Paradise Island.

“In this day when everyone is coming up with the new dishes, we kind of stepped back and went back to our roots,” Piper says. The restaurant has been open since the beginning of the month. In addition to its extensive menu, the restaurant has many specials every night based on seasonal availability.

THE INFO: D’Angelo Trattoria, 9 S.E. 7th Ave., Delray Beach, is open Sunday through Thursday 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to midnight. Phone: (561) 330-1237 | Directions, invite a friend

The corned beef hash benedict is $9.45 at Johnny Longboats on Singer Island. (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

Soft, savory and utterly delicious! I honestly can’t think of a better start to the day than this homemade breakfast from Johnny Longboats. It all starts with the corned beef hash, made from brisket that is slow-braised in apple juice and Cuban spices for eight hours, hand-pulled and chopped, served with sautéed red and green peppers, onions and potatoes. The meat is ever so tender and full of savory flavor. It’s reason enough to roll in for an early morning feast.

Add to that a lightly poached egg, the rich and creamy yolk mixed in to the savory hash, then topped again with a classic homemade hollandaise, all supported by a crisp English muffin and served with a choice of hash browns, grits or sliced tomatoes. Breakfast will never be the same.

The corned beef hash benedict is part of Johnny Longboat’s breakfast menu, served daily from 7 a.m. to 11 a.m. and until noon on Saturday and Sunday. The restaurant also serves lunch daily until 4 p.m. and dinner until 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday and until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. There is also a late-night menu served for two hours after dinner every night.

THE INFO: Johnny Longboats is located on Singer Island at 2401 Ocean Avenue. Phone: (561) 249-2795 | Directions,

The Sweet Ginger Special runs $23 at the CityPlace restaurant. (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

A platter full of fresh Atlantic seafood and veggies dressed in a light homemade teriyaki and brown rice is certainly something to get excited about at Sweet Ginger. The restaurant’s signature Sweet Ginger Special can also be served with tofu, chicken, duck, or salmon at varying prices. What’s really nice about it is the lighter take on the traditionally heavy stir-fry.

The homemade teriyaki is a blend of seasonings from traditional Thai, Chinese and Japanese cuisine, explains general manager Nick Nitiprapras. “We do most of our sauces homemade,” he says, “We want the customer to have a more traditional style.”

The shrimp and scallops are lightly seared and tossed with mushrooms, zucchini, carrots and onions in the homemade sauce and sprinkled with white sesame seeds, served with steamed broccoli and brown rice. It’s a filling dish that doesn’t weigh you down.

THE INFO: Sweet Ginger, 632 Hibiscus St. (at CityPlace), West Palm Beach, serves lunch and dinner daily from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday to Thursday, until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, and from noon to 9:30 p.m. on Sunday. Phone: (561) 832-8883.