When a restaurant is struggling, an owner is faced with two possibilities: Close up shop or try, try again

In this tough economy, it’s no surprise that many proprietors are opting for the former: Just this week, The Post’s business section detailed how Clematis Social, the downtown eatery opened by veteran local restaurateur Burt Rapoport a few months ago, came to an abrupt end. (It’s being replaced by Reef Road & Rum Bar, a seafood establishment.) Add to that such recent casualties as Rosa Mexicano and Amazonia in Palm Beach Gardens, Naylah in Royal Palm Beach and Chez Porky’s in Wellington.

But there are still entrepreneurs who decide to forge ahead, often by drastically rethinking their business plans. Take the case of two “new” restaurants that are actually reincarnations of older eateries — Forte in downtown West Palm Beach (225 Clematis St., 561-833-3330, fortepalmbeach.com) and Bayou (formerly PJ’s American Bistro) in Tequesta (235 S. U.S. 1, 561-746-6636).

In the case of Forte, it’s actually the third version of the restaurant, which was developed by Broadway producer and businessman Bob Cuillo (of the Cuillo Centre down the street). Initially, Cuillo partnered with Stephen Asprinio, the Wellington wunderkind turned Top Chef star, on a high-concept modern Italian eatery. Then, he parted ways with Asprinio but retained the real culinary stars behind the place, brothers Mark and Josh Liberman (Mark did the cooking, Josh handled the wines and bar).

But the restaurant, with its South Beach look and sophisticated menu, still proved a tough sell for the Clematis crowd. So, Cuillo has now brought in Maurizio Ciminella as a partner. If his name seems familiar, that’s because Ciminella has been a longtime fixture in Palm Beach, where he owns Amici in tandem with Cuillo. But his plan for Forte is much more casual — not only in comparison with Amici, but also in comparison with the previous Fortes.

Gone are a lot of the bizarre color schemes — “People didn’t like the pink,” Ciminella explains — and club-like feel to the space. Forte is now comfortable but not quite as showy. Similarly, the menu is less gourmet-centric — think salads, pizzas, pastas and light entrees, with nothing priced more than $20. There’s even a takeout lunch menu with items for $5.

In that light, it’s perhaps no surprise the Libermans are gone, too. (The brothers hope to start their own venture locally or in their home state of California.) But that’s not to say Ciminella is forsaking quality: The selection of Italian meats (or salumi) is still first-rate. And the pasta dishes include a very clever and spicy one — Farfalle Venice Beach — inspired by Ciminella’s days in California. Plus, Ciminella is keeping Josh Liberman’s inventive cocktail menu.

Finally, Ciminella has introduced a killer dessert — Italian-style doughnuts (or bombolini) with chocolate and tropical dipping sauces. That alone might be reason to seek out the new Forte.

Joe Ronan, chef and owner of Bayou, saw that Tequesta diners were hungry for New Orleans-inspired cuisine. Eliza Gutierrez/The Post

Down by the Bayou …

Meanwhile, in Tequesta, restaurateur and chef Joe Ronan is determined to make a new go of things with Bayou. He admits that the New Orleans-themed restaurant is what he really had in mind when he opened PJ’s. But he was concerned that Cajun food might be a tough sell with a local crowd that often doesn’t like to spice things up.

As it turned out, that local crowd was more adventurous than he realized. Even though PJ’s didn’t succeed financially, Ronan’s biggest sellers were always his Cajun items: shrimp etouffee, jambalaya, gumbo and the like. Now, the chef, who has real New Orleans roots and gourmet chops (he trained under Cajun legend Paul Prudhomme), is making such dishes the highlights of his new Bayou menu. Plus, he’s added one thing you won’t find in any Palm Beach County restaurant — fresh crawfish, done in the traditional Louisiana manner (a boil with spices, Andouille sausage and red-skin potatoes). New Orleans beers — and a “swamp” sangria — are on the beverage list, too.

Décor-wise, Ronan is making changes as well: The room now has a New Orleans feel. “We want the dining experience to be like a mini vacation,” he says. To go along with that theme, he’s featuring music on select nights — mostly in an American roots vein. He also hopes to book the occasional big-name Cajun entertainer.

The party all begins this Friday, with a grand-opening celebration featuring a local band. And if you can’t take the heat — taste-wise — Ronan says he’s happy to tone down any dish.