Restaurant info: Directions, reviews, more

If there’s a question I am asked most often as a restaurant critic, it’s probably this: “Where do you like to eat — on your own dime?” And an interesting question it is: As a critic, I get to dine at my employer’s expense at any number of places, from takeout joints in Tequesta to delis in Delray Beach. And I’d be lying if I said I didn’t enjoy many of those meals — it’s a job that anyone with a passion for food would be thrilled to have.

But it is a job nonetheless — one that requires me to eat dishes I may not particularly desire in places that may be too loud and flashy (or conversely, too hopelessly out-of-date) to suit my taste. So, when I dine outside the constraints of work, I don’t necessarily want to revisit a restaurant I’ve reviewed. In fact, I suspect I’m no different from most folks: I like neighborhood places that deliver a consistent product and that value a steady customer’s business. If they specialize in a particular cuisine (I’m big on all things Asian) and if they can show a degree of creativity in the kitchen, all the better.

In other words, I like Ebisu.

I’ve been a regular of this Japanese restaurant, named for one of Japan’s lucky gods, ever since it opened — not too far from my Palm Beach Gardens home — in 1993. And I continued visiting it even after I started reviewing restaurants in 2003. So, as I prepare to leave The Palm Beach Post this month and embark on a new journalistic adventure in New York, it seemed only fair to conclude my tenure with an assessment of, yes, a place I normally dine at on my own dime.

And guess what? Ebisu fared just as well in a critical light.

Perhaps that’s because even though this 17-year-old family-run eatery, courtesy of Hiro Yamamoto (he’s the chef) and his wife, Akemi (she’s the host), might seem like any strip-mall sushi joint, it’s a decisive cut above. The look is very, very Japanese — uncluttered and welcoming at the same time, with the standard sushi bar right up front (Hiro has his crowd of regulars) and comfortable seating elsewhere at booths, tables and the traditional floor-level tatami setup (which has become increasingly hard to find in newer Japanese restaurants).

Then, there’s the food. Key to Ebisu’s continued success is the fact its fish is always fresh and remarkably clean-tasting, with an emphasis on local catches — check the blackboard for what they’ve got on that particular day (recently, I enjoyed tilefish and fluke). And the rolls are masterfully prepared, whether you’re talking the classic (say, the spicy tuna — or Fire — roll for $7) or the contemporary (say, the Cuban-influenced Calle Ocho roll with fried sweet plantains for $13). Moreover, Hiro understands that great sushi is also about the rice — his is ever-so-slightly sweet and vinegar-y with just the right degree of stickiness.

But Ebisu has increasingly become about more than sushi, especially since Hiro has updated the menu in recent years to include nods to pan-Asian fare. His spicy tofu appetizer ($9.50) is a kind of devious mix of California, Mexican and Japanese cuisines, with some nice heat from thinly sliced jalapeños and some garden-minded textural variety with the addition of spinach and cherry tomatoes. And his glazed shrimp flavored with spicy lychees and paired with an edamame “pesto” rice ($18) is a dish that’s smart, modern and tasty all at once.

At the same time, Ebisu continues to do proud justice to the standard-bearers of Japanese cuisine, whether it’s a slurp-worthy bowl of soup with fat udon noodles and a side of crisp vegetable tempura ($12), a spot-on rendition of the hearty-meets-sweet stew known as sukiyaki ($22 with beef or chicken) or any number of Bento-box lunches ($11.50 to $13.50).

If I’ve had a complaint over the years about Ebisu, it’s the fact that it tends to be on the pricier side — no doubt, a reflection of the quality and prime location near PGA National. But recently, the restaurant has taken steps to offer an affordable option in its Happy Hour (5:30 to 7 p.m.) menu, with popular and unusual items alike — try the tuna quesadilla — at value-conscious prices of $3.50 to $5.50. When the food is paired with a refreshing Japanese draft beer ($5), it makes for a reasonably priced early evening’s outing. (During non-Happy Hours, you can also take advantage of a 5 percent discount if you pay in cash rather than with a credit card.) As for service, that’s hardly ever been a concern for me at Ebisu. It’s a cliché, but it still holds true: Come here often, and you’re treated like family. If the place is busy, you might wait a couple of minutes more for your sushi, but there’s a spirit of warmth guiding the restaurant that allows you to overlook such a small issue.

Shrimp Taco entree served at Ebisu

In that sense, Ebisu is the quintessential neighborhood eatery, even if it often serves food that makes it worthy of being what I dub a “destination” restaurant from a reviewer’s perspective. But I frequented the restaurant for 17 years as a local, not a critic. In the process, I came to appreciate what truly makes for a great dining establishment, right down to the extra care the staff took in preparing meals for my food-allergic son.

Surely, food adventures of all sorts await me in New York, even if I’m returning to the culinary-mad city of my birth to write about matters of finance. But I know that restaurants like Ebisu will always be hard to come by. I’m sure going to miss the place.

R E V I E W

Ebisu

FOOD: A-

SERVICE: A-

ADDRESS: 7100 Fairway Drive (in LA Fitness Plaza), Palm Beach Gardens

TELEPHONE: 561) 622-4495

WEB SITE: ebisupalmbeach.com

PRICE RANGE: Moderate to expensive

HOURS: Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday to Friday. Dinner: 5:30 to 10 p.m., Monday to Thursday; 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday. Happy Hour: 5:30 to 7 p.m., Monday to Saturday. Closed Sunday

CREDIT CARDS: AmEx, Visa, MC

RESERVATIONS: Accepted for parties of five or more

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, including restrooms