There's something to be said for a nice little place, and Jimmy's Bistro in Delray Beach is definitely that. (Thomas Cordy / Palm Beach Post)

More: Directions, write a review

By JOHN TANASYCHUK

First impression: I first happened by Jimmy’s last fall when the only people in the restaurant were chef/owner James Mills and our table of three. Talk about chief cook and bottle washer. Mills impressed us with his multiple skills. We had shrimp po boy sandwiches ($8-$9/lunch only) and excellent short ribs ($24), but wondered if his restaurant would make it. It did. Thank goodness. This seven-table charmer is now fully operational. It’s equal parts sophisticated and cozy. The menu is still written on a chalkboard. If the number "86" is written next to a menu item, the kitchen has sold out.

Background: Mills, originally from West Virginia, was chef at Le Chantilly and Auerole in New York City after school at the Hudson Culinary Arts School in New Jersey. He most recently worked at Tavern 1785 in Lewisburg, W.Va.

Ambience: Any restaurant that plays R&B, Motown and blues during dinner service has my heart. Despite its size, the oversized chairs are comfortable and the walls are decorated with a series of paintings from one artist. If you can’t score a table, consider sitting at the deep comfortable bar.

Starters: Mills just might make the best tomato bisque ($8) – ever. It’s served hot out of the oven with a crown of Parmesan pastry you can eat with every spoonful. Roasted beet salad ($8) is served with chopped romaine, pickled red onions and baked goat cheese. Mussels ($11) are served in a densely flavored tomato basil broth with lightly toasted diagonally cut French bread. The other night there was also house-made lobster ravioli ($12) and fresh mozzarella fondue ($8) on the menu board.

Entree excellence: Mills’ contemporary American fare never strays far from classics, so it’s no surprise to see beef chasseur ($24) on the menu. This delicate brown sauced dish contains the requisite mushrooms, but instead of potatoes, he serves it with basmati rice. Shrimp étoufée ($21) is a subtle creamy version of the classic, again served over basmati in a cross-cultural nod. Look for Southern chicken fried steak ($19) and Spanish paella ($28) on the menu as well.

Sweet!: Simple banana tart ($7) seemed to have gotten the short shrift.

Service: With so few tables, servers seem to always be nearby. Even more than attentive, the warm welcome and goodbye mean that Jimmy’s cares about locals.

Insider tip: As much as I want Jimmy’s to succeed, don’t rush here this weekend. Make a reservation so that you can truly enjoy what the restaurant has to offer. It’s worth the wait.

R E V I E W

Jimmy’s Bistro

FOOD: A-

SERVICE: A

ADDRESS: 9 Swinton Ave., Delray Beach

TELEPHONE: (561) 865-5774

WEBSITE: twitter.com/jimmysbistro

PRICE RANGE: Moderate to expensive

Hours: Open Monday- Saturday for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner 5 to 10 p.m. (Saturday to 11 p.m.)

CREDIT CARDS: Visa, MasterCard

RESERVATIONS: Strongly suggested

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, including restrooms

WHAT THE GRADES

MEAN:

A