The Pelican Restaurant in Lake Worth serves breakfast and has an Indian menu. (J. Gwendolynne Berry / Palm Beach Post)

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The Pelican Restaurant is not your ordinary diner. Behind the Florida kitsch facade of this quaint Lake Worth breakfast nook lies the fire of the spiciest Indian cuisine this side of the Atlantic. These curries can reduce even the mightiest of men to babies crying for water. Even the strongest tongues should tread carefully.

The Pelican is open for breakfast daily and serves a variety of traditional diner foods with a few Indian specialties. In the high season, they also serve lunch until 2 p.m.

But Friday nights are when things really heat up.

My husband and I have stopped in for the Friday Indian dinner menu many times in the past year, and the food has always been delicious. What sets it apart from other Indian restaurants is its authenticity. This is not the Americanized version of the cuisine.

On Fridays, co-owners Mohammad and Tahira Sami offer a variety of traditional vegetarian and meat dishes served with basmati rice, yogurt and naan (Indian flatbread). There are also a few appetizer selections and weekly specials.

We started out sharing an order of Indian spring rolls ($4.95) with mango, cilantro and chicken marinated in Indian spices. The juicy mango was a great balance to the spice of the chicken and refreshing on the tongue. Next, we tried some lentil fritters ($7.95). The tasty bite-sized treats were fried and served with a cilantro and jalapeno dipping sauce that lit that fire right up again.

For dinner, my husband ordered the Nihari beef shank ($16.95). The slow-roasted beef was marinated in cilantro and ginger and cooked on the bone in a spicy and savory curry. Just one bite was enough to make steam come out of my ears, but the dish was so tasty, I couldn’t help coming back for more punishment. My husband, who has a higher spice threshold, gobbled down the whole meal without even looking at his water.

My Tandoori mahi mahi ($16.95) was not the best dish I’ve had at the Pelican. Maybe they took my request for “mild” a bit too seriously. The fish was a bit bland compared to the more flavorful curries I’ve enjoyed before. The meal was good, but it didn’t do justice to the greatness of past visits.

The check came with a complimentary scoop of mango ice cream to soothe our scorched taste buds.

We decided to return for breakfast over the weekend to try out the regular menu. My husband ordered a very American steak and eggs with toast and roasted potatoes ($12.95). The eggs were a perfect sunny side up and the steak was juicy and tender.

I couldn’t help but try another Indian-inspired dish on the daily specials board. The eggs Nissa ($12.95) were scrambled in a green curry and served with fresh ginger, cilantro, tomatoes, jalapenos, black olives and feta cheese, alongside roasted potatoes, naan and yogurt. Even ordered mild, this dish was fiery but flavorful. The ginger in the dish was especially good and the cheese and Indian yogurt helped cut the spice. Washed down with a large glass of fresh orange juice ($3.50), it was a lovely start to the weekend.

R E V I E W

The Pelican Restaurant

FOOD: A-

SERVICE: A

ADDRESS: 610 Lake Ave., Lake Worth

TELEPHONE: (561) 582-4992

PRICE RANGE: Moderate

HOURS: Summertime hours M-F 6:30 a.m.–noon, Sat-Sun 6:30 a.m.–2 p.m. Special Indian dinner Fridays, 6-10 p.m. During season: Daily 6:30 a.m.–2 p.m. plus Friday night Indian dinners

CREDIT CARDS: Visa, MC, Discover

RESERVATIONS: No

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, including restrooms

WHAT THE GRADES MEAN:

A — Excellent

B — Good

C — Average

D — Poor

F — Don’t bother