The Palm Beach Post
By Liz Balmaseda   |  Dining  |  August 31, 2010

The Hawaii 5-0 hamburger, available at the Center Street Nook in Jupiter. (Libby Volgyes / Palm Beach Post)

More: Liz Balmaseda’s top burger picks for Palm Beach County

In the universe of burger lovers, there are burger gourmands and there are burger gluttons. Lori Kohler caters to both at her quaint and bustling Jupiter diner, the Center Street Nook.

She knows the great American burger belongs to everyone. And she knows that, despite its utter simplicity, the burger’s possibilities can be staggering.

So Kohler, who commands the family crew behind The Nook’s counter, serves a fun, far-flung and filling burger menu, with burgers named for her kids as well as some with a pop ring (like the Bruce Lee and the Hawaii 5-0). And, of course, there’s the beer-batter-fried, aptly named Gravedigger for burger extremists.

No doubt, this is the era of the glorified burger, when just about every celebrity chef has weighed in with his or her own burger inspiration, when “do you want fries with that” doesn’t begin to describe the permutation of burger accessories.

But no matter how extravagant the rendition, a good beef burger always comes down to the quality of its basics: It is not overly lean. It is not overly worked. It is not disturbed, pressed or poked on the grill.

“It’s all about the quality of the meat. For the right amount of juiciness we use Angus beef, an 80/20 combo,” says Kohler, referring to the ratio of lean beef (80 percent) to that of fatty meat (20 percent).

At the Abbey Road Grill in nearby Palm Beach Gardens, a similar attention to beef ratio and freshness has given its cheeseburger a “good, quiet reputation” among pub regulars, says co-owner Tim Gwinnell.

“We keep our fresh edge because we sell a lot of burgers. In season, we’ll sell in excess of 500 to 700 burgers,” says Gwinnell, whose kitchen uses fresh, never frozen Angus beef.

There’s a burger for every taste here, from elaborate to elementary, from the 1,000 possible burgers at Relish in Northwood to the Three-Napkin burger with cave-aged cheddar, smoked bacon, grilled onions and fried egg at RACKS Downtown Eatery in Boca Raton.

There are mushroom burgers, shrimp burgers, buffalo burgers, two-handed burgers, petite bar-bite burgers, frivolously named burgers, fancy-schmancy cheeseburgers, bargain-basement burgers and way overpriced burgers.

We sampled a few of Palm Beach County’s finest burgers and we share our findings in the reviews below, as well as a list of local spots serving notable burgers.

We didn’t taste every burger in the county — and we may have missed some of your favorites — but we sampled enough of them to know this for certain: There’s a burger out there with your name on it.

BURGER ROUNDUP

NORTH
CG BURGERS, Jupiter

The joint: Decor-wise, nothing really stands out. It’s pretty much all about the food here, though the high-wall booths do give you some privacy to enjoy your meal, as it does get a bit on the loud side.

The burger: CG Burgers calls its beef “the finest tasting all natural meat in the world” — and, hyperbole aside, it’s not far off. The restaurant uses Kobe beef, along with lamb, chicken, turkey and sausage. All the beef comes from Niman Ranch, which raises its stock organically. CG does the simple burger well, but also offers Cuban (with smoked ham, pickles and cheese), California (avocado, tomato and sprouts) and Napa Valley (goat cheese and arugula) styles.

The rave: It would be difficult to find a better tasting beef in our area, and the best thing about it is that it’s priced very well. The burgers are priced from $5 to $7, with a double stack running $10. Fries — which come in regular “French,” garlic, sweet potato and zucchini varieties — are extra but worth it.

The dish: Chances are you won’t wait too long. You order your burger and they give you a placecard that you hook into a computer system, so the wait staff isn’t hunting around for your number — they know where you are.

Info: Located at 4575 Military Trail in Jupiter; (561) 340-3940; cgburgers.com. Open Monday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
— Jonathan Tully

CENTER STREET NOOK, Jupiter

The joint: Literally a nook, probably known more for its breakfasts. It has little signs and tchotchkes all over its walls and even games and crossword puzzles on the tables.

The burger:
It’s quite good — a tasty, good-sized piece of beef. The great thing about this place is that they dive headlong into variety with their burgers — there’s the Buffalo Bill (with sweet Buffalo wing sauce and blue cheese), the Krystal (with coleslaw, Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing), the Boss Hogg (topped with pulled pork!), and the Double-Dare and Triple-Dare, the extreme-eating cousins. Then there’s The Gravedigger, artery-hardening heaven, a beer-batter fried patty topped with American cheese, lettuce, tomato, onions and Thousand Island dressing.

The rave:
I tried the Hawaii 5-0 ($8.25) and was thrilled. It’s topped with sliced pineapple, bacon, cheddar cheese and homemade barbecue sauce. The pineapple’s sweetness cuts the savory bacon and BBQ, creating a wonderful mix.

The fixins: Each comes with either French fries, sweet potato fries, onion rings, coleslaw or soup. The sweet potato fries might be the best I’ve had. The Nook’s cheeseburger soup has drawn raves as well.
The dish: The wait staff is very friendly, and though it’s a small staff both on the floor and in the kitchen, you get your food pretty quickly. You might find it difficult to get a table right away during peak times, but it’s worth the wait. Plus, there are always the games and puzzles.

Info: Located at 223 Center St., Jupiter; (561) 745-7477. Open Monday through Saturday 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. and to 2 p.m. on Sunday.
— Jonathan Tully

CENTRAL
HAMBURGER HEAVEN, Palm Beach
The joint
: The place looks just as it might have when built in 1945, with a big U-shaped counter at the center. The customers are mostly Palm Beach residents.

The burger: A simple thick broiled patty is the star of the show ($9, including a side). Top it with anything from bleu cheese crumbles to chili for an extra buck per item. Or, for $11, order one of their U.S. City Burgers, like the avocado and ranch Beverly Hills burger.

The rave:
The beauty of the ‘Heavenly Hamburgers’ is that they’re simply un-fooled-around with. The flavors are straightforward and served as neatly as the restaurant is maintained.

The fixins:
If you like desserts, don’t leave without trying one of the homemade cakes or pies. The cake slices are perfect for sharing and the warm blueberry pie a la mode is worth coming back for.
The dish: Someone in your party not in the mood for a burger? There’s a full menu here, from omelets for breakfast to a lunch and dinner menu.

Info: Located at 314 S. County Road, Palm Beach; (561) 655-5277. Open Monday through Thursday, 7:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Open Saturday until 4 p.m. Closed Sunday.
— Carlos Frías

GREASE BURGER BAR, West Palm Beach

The Joint: The place has the feel of an upscale pub while still casual. Wooden high top tables are lined along a gorgeous oak bar at the front of the restaurant, while lower wooden tables fill the back near a large stone fireplace. There are also a few sidewalk tables outside with views of Clematis.

The Burger:
The 10-ounce hand-shaped burgers are gigantic — so much so that I had to abandon my bun after a few failed bites and eat the meat with a fork. Grease Burger puts a fancy twist on the classic burger with interesting toppings like fresh mozzarella and basil, applewood smoked bacon and bleu cheese, or even hummus and cucumbers on a veggie variety. Burgers range in price from $7.95 for the classic hamburger to $11.95 for a 100 percent organic fed, free-range beef burger. Sides are extra.

The Rave: I tried the organic burger ($11.95) topped with griddled onions and avocado (95 cents per item) and added a half-order of onion rings ($1.95). The meat was delicious, cooked perfectly pink at my requested medium-rare. My husband ordered the BBQ Durango Burger with Durango sauce, griddled onions and pepper jack cheese ($9.95) and added a half-order of sweet potato fries ($1.95). The sauce was the perfect combination of sweet and smoky. It added just the right amount of flavor to the meat without being overpowering.

The Fixins:
My fresh-cut onion rings were thin-sliced and crispy. Even though I couldn’t finish the burger, there wasn’t a single onion ring left on my plate at the end of lunch. My husband’s sweet potato fries were also crisp and delicious. And even the simplest burger can be spiced up with additional toppings like avocado, a fried egg, or a roasted Portobello cap.

The Dish:
The restaurant was quiet when I stopped in for a weekday lunch, but general manager Dean Perna said Happy Hour and weekends can get busy. Reservations are taken, but not really necessary. Even on the busiest nights, it’s uncommon to have a long wait.

Info: Located at 213 Clematis St., West Palm Beach; (561) 651-1075; bigtimerestaurants.com. Open Sunday through Wednesday from 11:30 a.m. to midnight, Thursday through Saturday 11:30 to 2 a.m. Food is served until closing.
— Gwen Berry

SOUTH

SURF SLIDERS, Delray Beach
The joint: A very relaxed, island feel embraces diners. Inside, the room is spacious, so you don’t feel too crowded when you’re enjoying your meal. It also includes an exhibition kitchen so you can watch the chefs work on your lunch, if you’re into that. Outside, you’re right on the sidewalk along A1A, across the street from the beach, so the people-watching scale is off the charts.

The burger: Surf Sliders’ beef is tasty and cooked to near perfection — at medium rare, it’s juicy enough, plus it’s got a full-bodied taste. There are several versions — nothing too exotic. However, and there are no actual “sliders” on the menu. For a place known mostly as a seafood joint, the burgers are quite good.

The rave: I went with a basic cheeseburger ($9.95). The chef let the beef speak for itself in this case — no fancy additives, just 100 percent beef, with a slice of cheddar cheese on top. The result was a lip-smacking sandwich.

The fixins: Lettuce and tomatoes on the burger. Really basic. However, make sure you order the coleslaw — a real treat, with the right amount of mayo.

The dish: When my wife and I went, it wasn’t all that crowded. Granted it was raining off and on, which turned off some patrons for sure — yet the outdoor seating was pretty much full.

Info: Located at 6 S. Ocean Blvd., Delray Beach; (561) 276-2227. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.
— Jonathan Tully

BIG JOE’S BURGERS & WINGS, Boca Raton

The Joint: Big Joe’s is a family-owned hole-in-the-wall in a nondescript strip mall along Federal Highway. It looks more like a takeout shop than a restaurant, but there are three small tables and a few flat-screen televisions for those who want to dine-in.

The Burger: There’s a host of usual suspects, plus a few unique options like Big Joe’s bacon and bleu cheese burger, and a Cajun burger with grilled jalapenos. The burgers are served on a toasted bun with a choice of French fries, homemade coleslaw or mashed potatoes with gravy. The most expensive on the list (the double cheeseburger) still costs less than $10.

The Rave: My husband and I grabbed a quick dinner and found the food to be reasonably priced and tasty. I chose the Hangover Burger with American cheese, sautéed mushrooms and onions ($6.99). The large, flat burger was piled high with toppings and served with thin, crispy French fries. My husband’s Cajun burger with Cajun spice, cheddar cheese and grilled jalapenos ($6.99) was perfect for those who like a little heat.

The Fixins:
The burger toppings are fairly predictable — a variety of cheese options, mushrooms, onions and bacon. The most unusual item on the menu is the chocolate peanut butter mashed potatoes ($4.99). I tried an order for curiosity’s sake and they were certainly interesting. The mashed potatoes didn’t have much flavor on their own, so the dish tasted like a big bowl of melted peanut butter sauce topped with dark chocolate chips. But then again, who doesn’t like peanut butter?

The Dish: Big Joe’s is a quiet little spot to stop in for a quick bite or take a meal to go. Reservations are not necessary. The restaurant also offers free delivery ($15 minimum for delivery) and catering services.

Info: Located at 2831 N. Federal Highway, Boca Raton; (561) 447-7995; bigjoesburgers.com. Open Monday to Friday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
— Gwen Berry

CHARM CITY BURGER CO., Deerfield Beach
The joint: A true burger joint by locals for locals with a beach-diner feel. The sign on the window says it all: Clown Free. ‘We’re not McDonalds,’ a server said.

The burger:
Nothing complicated, just a 1/3 pound of beef cooked the way you want, starting at under $5 with cheese and all the fixins. Pony up $1.50 for variations that include thick-cut bacon or jalapenos and ‘volcano’ sauce. Hungry? Double the patties, cheese and slide hash browns and a fried egg on top for $9.50.

The rave: The flavor of grilled fresh beef comes right through, no matter whether you slathered it with spicy volcano sauce or topped it with cheese. Pair it with a microbrew and a side for an extra $5.

The fixins:
This place is more all-American than gourmet. But you can step things up with a slice of grilled foie gras or make your burger a Kobe beef half-pounder for $10.

The dish: The place is in a three-storefront mini-mall and easy to miss, and parking out back is limited. Park in the larger mall behind it.

Info: Located at 1136 E. Hillsboro Blvd., Deerfield Beach; (954) 531-0300; charmcityburgers.com. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 9: 30 p.m.
— Carlos Frías

MORE BURGER GOODNESS

NORTH
BRASS RING PUB
200 U.S. 1, North Palm Beach; (561) 848-4748; brassringpub.net

KIRBY’S SPORTS GRILLE
841 Donald Ross Road, Juno Beach; (561) 627-8000; kirbysonline.com

ABBEY ROAD
10800 N. Military Trail, Palm Beach Gardens; (561) 775-7556

YARDHOUSE

11701 Lake Victoria Gardens Ave.,Palm Beach Gardens; (561) 691-6901; yardhouse.com

CHEESEBURGERS AND MORE
6779 W. Indiantown Road, Jupiter;(561) 575-9490; CheeseburgersAndMore.com

CENTRAL
HAMBURGER HAVEN
1014 N. Tamarind Ave., West Palm Beach; (561) 833-1713.

PHAT SANDWICHES
106 N. Olive Ave. West Palm Beach; (561) 650-8111; phatsandwiches.com

GUN CLUB CAFE
4631 Gun Club Road, West Palm Beach; (561) 471-0879; gunclubcafe.com

GRATIFY AMERICAN GASTRO PUB
125 Datura St., West Palm Beach; (561) 833-5300; gratifypub.com

ALABAMA JOE’S
6316 Lantana Road #45, Lake Worth; (561) 963-3393; AlabamaJoes.com

RELISH
401 Northwood Road West Palm Beach; (561) 629-5377; relishburger.com

THE ORIGINAL BURGER BROS.

1209 N. Dixie Highway, West Palm Beach; (561) 935-3975; TheBurgerBros.com
(Second location to open this month in Stuart, at 951 S. Federal Hwy.)

GRATIFY
125 Datura St., West Palm Beach;
(561) 833-5300; GratifyPub.com

SOUTH
RACKS DOWNTOWN EATERY
402 Plaza Real, Boca Raton; (561) 395-1662; grrestaurant.com

VARIOUS LOCATIONS
FIVE GUYS, various locations
FiveGuys.com

We went to the Five Guys at Legacy Place, 11320 Legacy Avenue, Palm Beach Gardens; 561-625-3888Z Locations also in Boca Raton, Boynton Beach, West Palm Beach and Wellington

11 Responses to “The bodacious burgers of Palm Beach County”

  1. mike says:

    If you’re in Hollywood, FL the best burger joint to hit is Le Tub. The atmosphere is unique and a bit campy with tons of bathtubs. Don’t come for great service, as you will most likely have to wait, but come for the food. Customers are true burger connoisseurs. The place is not to be forgotten, it boasts the best burgers in the world according to GQ magazine.

  2. David says:

    Check out http://www.palmbeachburgerdoctors.com
    We are a burger club that samples and rates a different burger each month!

  3. freakerdude says:

    Relish definitely deserved to be reviewed and not just mentioned but my list is just northern/central PB county.

    My list in order:

    Brass Ring
    Grease
    Relish
    Pelican Cafe
    CG’s
    Yardhouse

  4. Richard says:

    Interesting choice of places to review–different from most. Charm City has the best burgers around, but you skipped Green’s in Palm Beach and fell for the Hamburger Heaven thing. Shame!

    Go to Green’s, order a shake/malt, some onion rings, and a burger and fries. Enjoy, and you’re welcome. As for freakerdude’s list, I will definitely give each of them a try. Thanks!

    R

  5. chuck says:

    You talk about Five Guys like its an after thought. Zaget just voted them the number #1 burger in the country!!! Several of these places are great if you have time for a full service meal… and they have 20min to make your burger. CG Burgers??? Are you kidding me… the meat might as well be cardboard… you lost all credibility with that one.

    • freakerdude says:

      Chuck, 5 Guys is only good in comparison to fast food like McD’s and such. Zagat rated them as the best FAST FOOD hamburger in the country. 5 Guys is mediocre in comparison to these locally owned joints.

  6. Michelle Soudry says:

    Hey… what about $5 Burger Night at Table 42 Italian Kitchen + Wine Bar in Boca Raton? Chef Matthew makes the best burgers in town! custom orders to a table- go in there any Wednesday night and servers will provide you with this adorable check menu and you check off your desired toppings, burger temperature, bun etc. The burgers are massive, full-size Harris Ranch farmed meat that are organic and all-natural! They offer different specials every week and next week they are revealing their new line of signature burgers starting next Wednesday…

  7. Jane Feehan says:

    I don’t know how the beef burgers are but my turkey burger at CG Burgers, made with dark (as in cheap) meat was itsy bitsy. I can’t imagine other varieties being memorable; mine was forgettable. Why would the revenue model be different for beef – or lamb?

  8. Jackie Rea says:

    Check out White Crescent Burgers – “Home of the Moonie” How many can you eat? Just opened on Okeechobee Blvd just west of Haverhill next to Hess…awesome sliders!
    Look for they coupone in the Money Mailer envelope coming to your mailbox around Sept 9th…

  9. freakerdude says:

    yes, CG’s burgers are almost too small now. For that reason, it is no longer near the top of my list.

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