By Diana Foote

FORT PIERCE — At the tiki-syle restaurant in Fort Pierce called On the Edge, the fun verged on riotous the other Saturday night. The food was mostly good — better than at most tiki bars — but the scene was just amazing.

Twenty-something girls flashed their tattoos at mostly virgin-skinned young men. All swayed, just a bit, to the old fogey music outside: a pleasant guitar duo who sang Neil Young and Fleetwood Mac. Nearby, a leather-faced fisherman with missing fingers shot back whiskey. Hippie-type artists sat on the lower deck by the water, mesmerized by the dramatic sunset. Shady-looking men hovered.

They all could have walked out of the pitch-perfect novels of local writer Carl Hiaasen.

Action ensued: a bodybuilder pulled a bar seat out from under his date. She punched him. They walked out, hand in hand.

Older women, stuck in their ’80s heyday and proud of their weapons of seduction — big hair, short skirts, unadulterated cellulite — flirted shamelessly. It’s no wonder Courtney Cox’s TV series, “Cougar Town,” is set in the Sunshine State.

Leeks in the creamy Prince Edward Island mussel appetizer ($12) were a nice, subtle touch and the mollusks were small, tender. I liked the idea of the grilled Caesar salad ($9) better than the result: it was chewy. Neither warm nor topped with much crabmeat, as promised, the baked brie ($12) was a disappointment.

Entrées were far superior, although the kitchen mixed up a couple of fish dishes; cobia (instead of grouper) was covered in a delicious, peach almond sauce.

The best action of the evening moved from the patrons to our plates.

The flawlessly white and meaty grouper ($28) came in a close second to my fisherman-fresh cobia ($20).

Four of us left, singing Neil Young classics, for $150.