Spaghetti with Fried Egg and Sardines (Washington Post photo)

By Joe Yonan

“Nothing helps scenery like ham and eggs,” Mark Twain wrote in Roughing It.

I’m not eating much ham anymore, but almost 150 years after Twain’s observation I couldn’t agree with him more about the eggs. From where I sit, writing these words on the third floor of my sister and brother-in-law’s house in southern Maine, I can see the chicken coop just past the beehives.

And, as on most afternoons, I can’t help but wonder whether there might be some eggs waiting for me inside, right this minute, and whether they’ll still be warm when I go out to fetch them.

I often think about the chickens. When I’m in the greenhouse next to the coop, helping my sister, Rebekah, water kale seedlings or train pea shoots to start climbing, I can hear the chickens cluck-clucking as they scratch around their little yard.

I’ve long sung the praises of eggs as the perfect single-serving food: long-lasting (for something perishable, they’re good for weeks on end in the fridge), portion-controlled, easy and quick to cook, even nutritious. They’re one of my “desert-island” must-haves, along with dried beans and sweet potatoes.

The last thing on my mind when it comes to these eggs is breakfast, because I’ve got my granola and yogurt for that, and I don’t like to cook before I caffeinate.

But eggs for dinner? That’s what I’m talking about. My favorite off-the-cuff dish usually involves some sort of vegetable stir-fry, or braised greens and beans over rice, or tacos, graced with a fried egg or two.

Or I’ll poach them in spicy tomato sauce, spooning that on top of toast; or I’ll add a fried one to spaghetti, cutting it up into the pasta and sauce and letting the runny yolk enrobe everything in its golden richness.

Pasta with eggs is a standby for many single cooks. This version takes it up a notch with the addition of smoky fish, crunchy walnuts and sharp preserved lemon. Tuna packed in oil may be substituted for the sardines.

Spaghetti with Fried Egg and Sardines

Serves: 1

Sea salt, plus salt for the cooking water

2 ounces dried whole-wheat spaghetti

1 large egg

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons (1 ounce) chopped walnuts

1 clove garlic, chopped

Half a 3.75-ounce can best-quality smoked sardines in oil, drained and chopped (3 to 4 fillets; may substitute 2 ounces oil-packed tuna)

2 ounces (about 12 cups packed) baby spinach leaves

1 slice preserved lemon (about 1 teaspoon chopped)

1 tablespoon grated Pecorino Romano cheese (optional)

Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the spaghetti and cook according to the package directions (until al dente). Drain, reserving at least 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.

Meanwhile, crack the egg into a teacup.

Heat the oil in a medium skillet fitted with a lid, over medium heat. Once the oil starts to shimmer, slip the egg into the skillet; season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and cook for about 2 minutes or until the top of the egg is barely filmed over and the yolk is still runny. Transfer the egg to a plate, and return the skillet to the heat.

Add the walnuts, garlic and sardines to the skillet; cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic is tender, 3 or 4 minutes. Add the baby spinach leaves; stir until they wilt, 2 minutes.

At this point, if the spaghetti is not done, remove the skillet from the heat.

Add the spaghetti to the spinach-sardine mixture in the skillet (over medium heat). Add the cooked egg and toss to combine, cutting up the egg in the process. Add the preserved lemon and some of the cooking liquid, if desired, to form a looser sauce.

Transfer to a bowl, sprinkle with the cheese, if using, and eat.

Recipe from Joe Yonan, author of Serve Yourself: Nightly Adventures in Cooking for One (Ten Speed Press, 2011).

The Tin Fish, a casual seafood chain with 13 locations across the country, has opened its fifth Florida location on Clematis Street in downtown West Palm Beach, in the space formerly occupied by Luigi’s. The logline: “A great little neighborhood fish joint.” The principals are a trio of experienced fishermen, Ray Noonan and sons Andy and Bobby Noonan.

The menu includes chowders, grilled fish, crab cakes, and Noonan specialties like clams, mussels and chorizo with oven-roasted tomatoes and preserved lemon.

The Tin Fish: 118 S. Clematis Street, West Palm Beach; (561) 223-2497; TinFishClematis.com

CLOSINGS
SAY IT ISN’T SO, MUZZIO’S!

The owners of Muzzio’s Bakery, the small, family-owned gem of a shop on Alternate A1A in North Palm, have announced they will close their doors on Saturday after 34 years in business.

“As times have changed, we must change as well. We look forward to bright futures and new endeavors but always with the memories you have given us,” said owners Tom and Val Muzzio in a joint statement e-mailed to patrons.

They thanked their loyal customers, saying it has been their “greatest fortune and privilege” to help celebrate their holidays and milestones.

There’s still time to snap up some of Muzzio’s delicious Italian-style bread and cookies (we’re massively fond of the almond cookies) before they turn off the oven.

Muzzio’s Bakery: 9339 Highway A1A Alternate, North Palm Beach; (561) 840-9577

Check, Please: The Palm Beach County episode airs Monday at 7:30 p.m. on WPBT2. The episode repeats on Thursday at 7:30 p.m. and Saturday at 5:30 p.m.

Interior of Umi in Palm Beach Gardens, now Carmine's. (Richard Graulich / Palm Beach Post)

Restaurateur Carmine Giardini has renamed and revamped his Umi Fishbar, the Palm Beach Gardens eatery that sits adjacently to Carmine’s Gourmet Market. He’s named it Carmine’s Original Ocean Grill & Sushi Bar.

It’s not exactly a new name — the seafood spot with an Asian undertow takes the name of Carmine’s former Ocean Grill, which was located across PGA Boulevard until it closed a couple of years ago.

Why the name change? “Because you kept asking for it,” says the e-mailed announcement that went to Umi newsletter subscribers.

The new menu features summer specials like a steamed 1-pound Maine lobster ($12), a 12-ounce sirloin steak from Carmine’s butcher shop ($12) and a $20 surf and turf.

Carmine’s Original Ocean Grill & Sushi Bar: 2401 PGA Boulevard, Palm Beach Gardens; (561) 472-7900

Beer-battered zucchini flowers from D'Angelo Trattoria. (Brandon Kruse / Palm Beach Post)

D’Angelo Trattoria, a 9-month-old restaurant with a cozy, vintage feel, serves the most delicious fiori di zucca, or stuffed zucchini flowers.

A signature dish in Rome, they’re a rare find in these parts. But luckily for us, restaurateur and chef Angelo Elia serves them at his Roman-style trattoria in Delray.

The beer-battered zucchini flowers ($13) are stuffed with imported Italian mozzarella and somehow manage to retain a tender snap inside of the ever-so-light batter that’s whipped up by restaurant chef Miguel Faged. They’re fried and served over a bed of baby arugula, with a side of subtle lemon aioli.

Like the other inspired appetizers at the trattoria, the zucchini flowers are delicious paired with one of D’Angelo’s rotating wine flights ($14 for three 3-ounce servings).

D’Angelo Trattoria: 9 S.E. Seventh Ave., Delray Beach; (561) 330-1237

Although it was only last month that we featured three Italian wines in this space, I had a hard time ignoring the email advertising the Boynton Beach Total Wine’s recent wine tasting class on Italy’s Piedmont region. And I’m glad I found it irresistible, too.

You can never go wrong with a wine tasting class. You’ll always learn something new (even if you participated in the same class the previous year), you’re sure to meet new wine-loving friends, and you just never know what gem of a wine will tantalize your tongue.

Piedmont, in Italy’s northwest corner, is surrounded by the Alps and the Apennines, which explains its name meaning "foot of the mountain." Piedmont has the most Denominazione di Origine Controllata and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita regulated zones in Italy within its borders, with 45 DOCs and 12 DOCGs, yet has no Indicazione Geografica Tipica ones (which is a more humble designation).

Piedmont’s most notable and important grapes are moscato, used to make the sparking Asti, and the reds barbera and nebbiolo, the latter being the grape that makes the legendary and powerful Barolo and Barbaresco wines.

In class, we tasted those among a total of 10 wines that ranged from sweet white to tannin-packed red (and even a sweet red to cap the night).

While the two-hour class provided ample organoleptic experiences, I’ll highlight just a few that linger in my mind and in my notes.

Although I didn’t particularly like the 2010 Donna Anita Arneis ($13.99), I did like that it was a varietal I had never tried before (and how will you ever know what you do or don’t like if you don’t explore outside your comfort zone?) It is a white wine made from a grape by the same name – arneis.

It’s made mostly in the Roero hills north of the town of Alba. It had an aroma that was a bit earthy, almost musty, with the fruit of apples and pears. I tasted citrus and minerals on its light-medium, acidic body. It’s certainly a food-friendly wine but I found that mix of must and fruit a little too funky for my taste.

The most widely planted grape in Piedmont is barbera. The two areas that produce the best wine are around the towns of Alba and Asti, and the name of the wine will also carry the town from which it is made: barbera d’Alba or barbera d’Asti. This is a favorite local wine, with high acidity and a lot of flavor. It has softer edges and drinks younger than the nebbiolo grape. We tried the 2007 Villa Lanata Barbera d’Alba Sucule ($21.99), which had decanted for three hours . With a character of rich red and black fruits, in currants and plum, a soft texture and bright acidity, it was delectable and addictive. I particularly enjoyed the finish of red licorice.

The next wine "starred" in my notes was also from Alba, but now we sipped on a little more muscle. The 2010 Mauro Sebaste Nebbiolo d’Alba ($19.99) had an exotic, alluring nose that included fresh and dried roses and licorice. The intrigue followed through on the palate with black cherry, raspberry and blackberry, and toasted, smoky oak.

What I found most appealing was the consistent flavor profile from front to back. My friend and tasting compadre Brenda said it best when she described this wine "like a middle eastern belly dancer." Put the backyard fire pit in the picture, and I had a wine to bring home with me to savor when the months turn cool again.

The evening took a turn to the curious when it came to a close and we were poured a sweet red. The cranberry-colored spumante (or sparkler) was the Rivata Brachetto d’Acqui ($11.99), made from the brachetto grape in the area around Acqui. It had a sweet, almost syrupy smell of strawberries and Jolly Rancher hard candy.

Light in body and overwhelmingly fruity with ripe, juicy strawberries and raspberries, I immediately thought of sangria with an extra dose of "fun" in its zest and effervescence. A good way to end the evening, perhaps, but an even better way to get a party started.

These were the other wines we tasted:

2011 Rivata Moscato d’Asti ($9.99, on sale for $7.99 until June 2)

2010 Rocca Felice Barbera D’Alba ($12.99)

2009 Cortese Dolcetto d’Alba Trifolera ($19.99)

2007 Cortese Barbaresco Rabaja ($49.99)

2007 Mauro Veglio Barolo ($39.99)

2007 Alessandria Barolo San Giovanni ($49.99)

Chef Charles Coe of Russell's Blue Water Grill says that grilling enhances the flavor of fish. At right is his Blackened Mahi Mahi with Pineapple Pico de Gallo. (Taylor Jones / Palm Beach Post)

Fish lovers, fear not the grill.

The first big grilling weekend of the year approaches and, thanks to the spoils of paradise, we’re swimming in fresh, local, wild-caught fish.

Yes, grilling may take you out of your kitchen comfort zone, where you control the elements. But, hey, think of all the fun you’ll have. Just look at Charles Coe, fisherman and chef, grilling mahi mahi in his Singer Island backyard. The guy’s having a blast.

Never mind that he’s a big-personality guy to begin with. He’s here to assure you that grilling fish is as easy as following four essential tips, and that you don’t have to be the star of Lifetime’s Catch, Clean, Cook traveling series (like him) or executive chef at Russell’s Blue Water Grill (like him) to master the art of grill marks on grouper.

"Grilling only enhances the flavor of fish, if you know how to grill it properly," says Coe, 34. "It lets all the fat drip out without zapping the flavor."

One: Choose the right fish

"This is so important because you could have a great piece of fish, but if it’s too delicate, it will fall apart on you," says Coe.

What’s a good, sturdy fish for the grill? Mahi mahi, cobia, wahoo and grouper, to name a few local fish. Salmon is terrific as well.

"You want a firm fish, like mahi mahi. People do grill snapper – and it’s a great fish – but it’s difficult because it can break apart. Most of the ‘grilled’ snapper you see out there was just marked (on the grill) and finished in the oven," says the chef.

To cook a more delicate fish, like snapper, on the grill, Coe suggests blackening the fish fillet and searing it on a hot cast iron pan atop the grill.

"I love blackened snapper," he says. "It’s such a nice sweet fish, and the blackening spices just enhance that."

For simple grilled fish, Coe believes the best pre-grill seasoning is simple salt and pepper. "That’s all you need."

Two: Make sure the grill is hot enough

Don’t rush the grilling process, says Coe. "People become impatient and toss the food on grill before it’s really ready. But if you don’t have a hot grill, it’s going to stick."

This rule goes for pans as well. As Coe details in the adjacent recipe for Blackened Mahi Mahi, a cast iron pan must heat for at least 10 minutes on the grill before it’s ready to sear a piece of fish.

Three: Whip out the cooking spray

"Don’t use oil on your grill," says Coe, "Use cooking spray, like Pam. When you put oil on the fish and on the grill, it’s going to flame up. You’ll get a charred, nasty flavor."

The chef says this is a common mistake of a novice griller. "Yes, flames look cool, but they’re not good for food. You want the heat, but not the flame."

Four: Leave the fish alone!

The less you prod and flip your fish, the better it cooks. "People like to touch the fish and check it a million times. But you need to put it down and leave it alone," says Coe.

While all grills heat up differently, his general rule is about 10 minutes total cooking time for a thick, 8-ounce fillet, or four to five minutes per side.

How do you know when to flip the fish? "The fish will begin to peel itself away from the grill. You’ll see the edge become opaque and the color slightly change," he says.

Chef’s secret: Perfect grill marks

Coe follows the 2 o’clock/ 10 o’clock rule to achieve those picture-perfect grill marks.

Lay a fish fillet diagonally (or pointing to 2 o’clock) on the grill axis. Grill for two or three minutes, then reposition it to point to 10 o’clock for another two or three minutes.

Flip it over and do the same on the other side. "That will give you the perfect marks."

SAMPLE CHEF CHARLES COE’S FISH SPECIALTIES

Russell’s Blue Water Grill

2450 PGA Blvd.,

Palm Beach Gardens

(561) 318-6344;

RussellsBlueWaterGrill.com

BACKYARD BBQ SALMON SALAD

Chef Charles Coe glazes grilled salmon with a barbecue sauce that’s infused with grilled peaches. The salmon is set upon a hearty toss of greens, grilled corn and candied pecans for a spectacular grilling-season salad.

Makes: 1 salad

FOR THE SALMON:
One 6-ounce salmon fillet
2 peaches, grilled and the flesh pureed with 2 ounces barbecue sauce
FOR THE SALAD:
4 ounces mixed baby lettuces, rough chopped
15 candied pecan halves
10 grape tomatoes, halved (5 yellow, 5 red)
1/2 ear corn, grilled and sliced off the cob
1/2 green apple, julienned
3 ounces Citrus Honey Balsamic dressing*
1 hard-boiled egg, quartered
Fried onions, to garnish

Make the salmon:

Grill Salmon to medium then brush with grilled peach-barbecue sauce blend.

Assemble the salad:

In a large mixing bowl, toss together mixed lettuces, pecan halves, grape tomatoes, grilled corn and green apple slices with the citrus honey balsamic dressing. Place grilled salmon on top of mixed salad and arrange hardboiled egg quarters around base of the greens. Add crispy fried onion strings on top of the salmon for nice, contrasting texture.

GRILLED MAHI MAHI TACOS

These grilled mahi mahi tacos, as created by Chef Coe, find zesty accompaniment in chipotle mayo and cilantro-scented slaw.

Makes: 1 serving

6 ounces mahi mahi fillet, sliced into 3 rectangular “fingers” (3 inches by 1/2 inch)
One 12-inch tortilla, cut in 4 (slice a cross on the tortilla, making 4 triangles)

Coleslaw *

Chipotle mayo **

Season fish pieces with salt and pepper, and grill until cooked through (about 2 to 3 minutes on each side).

Take three of the tortilla triangles and heat them quickly (a few seconds) on the grill. Lay triangles on work surface, with the point facing away from you. Draw one line of chipotle mayo down the center of tortilla from point to base. Top with coleslaw.

Arrange fish on top of coleslaw. Place one dot of chipotle mayo on one corner of tortilla and roll. The dot of mayo will act like glue to hold tortilla shut.

* For the coleslaw, toss shredded cabbage with caraway seeds and fresh cilantro
** For the chipotle mayo, blend together 1 cup mayonnaise with 1 chipotle pepper packed in adobo sauce and the juice of 1/2 lemon in the food processor or blender. Put mix in a squeeze bottle. Leftover sauce will keep in the fridge for about two weeks.

BLACKENED MAHI MAHI WITH PINEAPPLE PICO DE GALLO

This dish is a study in contrasts, a spicy, seared fillet topped with a cool, tangy salsa that Chef Coe tosses with grilled pineapple.

Makes: 1 serving

FOR THE PICO DE GALLO:
2 slices fresh pineapple
1 tomato, seeds removed and diced
1/2 red onion, diced
1 small jalapeño, seeded and diced (to taste)
1/2 bunch cilantro
Juice of 1 lime
FOR THE MAHI MAHI:
One 6-ounce mahi mahi fillet
Blackening seasoning (your favorite kind), to coat fish on one side
2 ounces vegetable oil
8 asparagus spears

Heat a cast iron pan on grill top for 10 minutes. While the pan is heating, make your grilled pineapple pico de gallo:

Grill pineapple until lightly caramelized and set aside to cool.
Place diced tomato in a mixing bowl, add diced red onion, jalapeño and cilantro.

Squeeze lime into the tomato mixture.

Dice cooled pineapple and toss into the tomato mix. Set aside to allow flavors to come together. (This pico de gallo can be made a day earlier, if you like.)

Blacken the mahi mahi:

Now that your pan is hot, dredge 1 side of the mahi mahi fillet in the blackening seasoning. Shake off excess seasoning.

Drizzle vegetable oil in the center of hot pan. Lay the fish seasoned side down first, away from you. (This is very important, so that you don’t burn yourself with the hot oil.)

Cook fish for 5 to 7 minutes, then flip with a spatula or tongs. Again, laying the fish away from yourself to prevent burns. Cook an additional 5 minutes or until done. (Fish should feel firm to the touch.)

To serve:

Grill asparagus and place on the plate. Next gently position the fish blackened side up covering the base of the asparagus but leaving the tips out, showing. Top with pineapple pico de gallo and serve.

* CITRUS HONEY BALSAMIC DRESSING

For the Backyard BBQ Salmon Salad

2 plum tomatoes, chopped into fourths
1/2 bunch basil
Juice of 1 orange
Juice of 1 lemon
Juice of 1 lime
Juice of 1 pink grapefruit
4 cloves garlic
1 shallot
1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard
2 tablespoons honey
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
Blended oil (75 percent canola, 25 percent olive), to thicken
Salt and pepper to taste

In a blender, puree tomatoes, basil, all citrus juices, garlic and shallot. Add mustard, honey and balsamic vinegar to blender. Puree on high to combine all ingredients. Slowly drizzle in blended oil to reach desired thickness. (Be careful not to add the oil too quickly, or the dressing may break.)

WHOLE FOODS MARKET, 2635 State Road 7, Wellington. (561) 904-4000.

Gluten-Free Cooking, 6:30 p.m.-8 p.m. today . Join Chef Joe as he demonstrates how to prepare an easy and tasty gluten-free meal. Free.

Gluten-Free Shopping Tour, 6:30-8 p.m. Thursday . An informative tour of our gluten-free products around the store. Free.

Whole Kids Class – "Little Chefs" Recipe Boxes, 2-3 p.m. Saturday . A fun class of painting and preparing healthy snacks. Children will leave with their own recipe box and recipes to make healthy snacks at home. $5.

IN THE KITCHEN, 389 Tequesta Drive, Tequesta. (561) 747-7117.

Mangia Mama Italian Favorites, 6:30-8:30 p.m. Thursday . Learn to create and enjoy dishes including sausage bread, pasta with zucchini, Italian chopped salad, veal Milanese, grilled eggplant, fresh tomato and mozzarella gratin, and Grandma Maggie’s strawberry coconut cake. $75.

WHOLE FOODS MARKET, 1400 Glades Road, Boca Raton. (561) 447-0000.

Block Party: Picnic Favorites for Memorial Day, 5-7 p.m. today . Tour the store for some great ideas for barbecues or picnic foods inspired by the long, relaxing weekend. Free.

Healthy Eating Store Tour, 10:30 a.m.-noon. Friday . Learn how to navigate the store and make healthy selections according to the Health Starts Here program. Free.

u25A0 Boca Brunch Bunch, 1-2 p.m. Saturday . $5. Become a part of the exclusive Boca Brunch Bunch with Matt, healthy eating specialist. Guests will be delighted with scrumptious brunch dishes that are good for mind, body and soul.

u25A0 Support Our Troops Cookout, Noon-3 p.m. Sunday . Enjoy a hamburger, hot dog or portobello burger along with a side and choice of drink for a $5 donation.

WAVE 2700 RESTAURANT, 2700 N. Federal Highway, Boca Raton, (561) 361-2700 .

u25A0 Get Veg-a-Cated, 6:30 p.m. every Monday. A vegan-education program followed by a vegan dinner with organic wine. $25.

PUBLIX APRON’S COOKING SCHOOL, Polo Club Shoppes, 5050 Champion Blvd., Suite D2, Boca Raton, (561) 994-4461 or (561) 994-4883 .

u25A0 5-Star Brunch, 6 p.m. Friday . Learn how to poach eggs, make crepes and cook the perfect omelet. $40.

u25A0 Tea for You, Your Mom, and Friends!, 6 p.m. Saturday . Enjoy time with friends over delicious teas and tea party menu items. $40.

u25A0 Eggs-travaganza!, 6 p.m. Monday . A culinary adventure while exploring the versatility and deliciousness of eggs. $40.

u25A0 Am I Speaking Greek?, 6 p.m. Tuesday . Learn to create Greek favorites. $45.

RISTORANTE SAPORI, 301 Via De Palmas, Boca Raton, (561) 367-9779 .

u25A0 Beginner cooking classes, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. every other Saturday with chef Marco Pindo. Reservations are required . $50.

They’re the sort of thing you want to indulge in all the time, but shouldn’t. So we set out to make one that would not be quite so bad for you, but still satisfying.

Of course, the obvious route would be to go directly to milkshake’s sometimes healthier cousin, the smoothie. Made from yogurt and fruit, this blended beverage lives in gyms and health clubs. But while smoothies are fine, they aren’t "real" milkshakes. We really wanted a milkshake.

For the frosty part of our milkshake, we went with sorbet, a frozen blend of fruit and sugar. Though high in sugar, sorbets generally have no fat. Plus, they pack an intensely fruity flavor. You could substitute a low-fat sherbet, sorbet’s milkier cousin, but the flavor would not be as strong.

For creaminess, we went with cottage cheese. It may sound unusual, but the curds blend smooth with a rich and creamy texture. Add in a bit of fat-free half-and-half and we had a seriously good milkshake.

For a chocolate version, blend 2 tablespoons of cocoa powder into the mix until smooth.

Orange Dreamsicle Milkshake

Serves: 2

Preparation: 10 minutes

1 cup orange sorbet (mango also is good)

1/2 cup low-fat cottage cheese

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup fat-free half-and-half

In a blender, combine all ingredients. Blend until smooth. If you prefer a thinner consistency, drizzle in additional half-and-half while the blender is running until you get the desired consistency. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 200 calories; 1.5 g fat; 5 mg cholesterol; 44 g carbohydrate; 8 g protein; 0 g fiber; 320 mg sodium

It is time, I think, to repeat our mango chutney recipe for the benefit of those who have lost their copies or for those new to it.

For proper chutney, you need green, unripe mangoes that have grown to at least preteen size (in human terms) — perhaps 3 to 4 inches in length — but are still tart and young enough that the central seed can be cut through with a sharp knife.

However, any mango that is not fully ripe and soft will work, even if the seed has hardened.

Which means that even those who do not have a mango tree — or a friend with one — can buy the greener mangoes from shops or fruit stands and make chutney, an Indian word for sweet-sour-hot condiments that has now entered the vocabulary worldwide.

Here is how to go about preparing the fruit: Cut the stem end of each fruit and wash the mango well, dry and peel the skin — somewhat deeply so all the green skin parts are off. If the mangoes are still immature, cut it in half though the seed, prying out and discarding the seed parts. Cut the fruit parts into slices. If the seed is hard, cut the slices around the seed and discard the hard seed. Place the sliced mangoes in a bowl of water and set aside.

Here is the simplified recipe that has been in our family for generations, adapted for local taste, which is happily growing more sophisticated and cosmopolitan by the year. Without further ado then, here is the recipe.
Feel free to render your own virtuoso interpretation.

Stored in sterilized glass jars in the refrigerator, this chutney will keep for months. It’s delicious served with spicy Indian foods, barbecued meats and poultry.

Gholam’s Green Mango Chutney

5 or 6 medium unripe mangoes, pared and sliced as above

6 small garlic cloves, peeled and left whole

1-inch piece ginger, peeled and sliced into thin rounds

1 1/2 half cups white vinegar

2 to 2 1/2 cups sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

Pinch ground cayenne (optional)

1/2 cup raisins

1/4 teaspoon nigella seeds (optional, see note)

2 dried red chili pods (optional)

Combine the first 7 ingredients (all ingredients except the raisins, nigella and chili pods) in a nonreactive pan (glass, stainless steel or Teflon-coated). Bring to a boil and cook, stirring often, until the syrup thickens and mango slices are translucent and tender, about 1 hour. Add some water if needed.

Some 15 minutes before the cooking is done, wash and stir in the raisins and the nigella seeds, if using.

With kitchen scissors, slice the seeded chili pods crosswise into very thin rings and stir in just before taking the pot off the heat.

Note: Nigella seeds, which resemble black sesame seeds, are available in Indian grocery stores. Ask for kalonji or mangrella.

For diabetics: Cut the sugar by half or more and add Splenda, an artificial sweetener, in equivalent amount. Note, however, that some real sugar is needed to give the chutney syrup body and an attractive gloss.

Barbecue Wines, 6-7 p.m., Virginia Philip Wine Shop & Academy, 101 N. Clematis St., Suite 150, West Palm Beach. Prepare for Memorial Day by tasting some wine and wings. (561) 721-6000.

Boynton Beach Wine Tasting, 6-8 p.m., ABC Fine Wine and Spirits, 1531 W. Boynton Beach Blvd., Boynton Beach. Get ready for Memorial Day weekend with wines, spirits and cordials, gourmet hors d’oeuvres, coupons, souvenir glasses, gourmet food vendors and more. (561) 732-0794.

Ongoing

Wine Down Wednesday, 5-10 p.m., Romeo-n-Juliette’s Caffe, 1544 Cypress Drive, Jupiter. Half-price bottles of wine. (561) 768-3967.

Pasta Tuesdays and Winesday, Maison Carlos, 3010 S. Dixie Highway, West Palm Beach. The restaurant’s pasta dishes are $10 on Tuesday, and on Wednesday, enjoy your own wine with no corkage fee. (561) 659-6524..

Ladies’ Night, 9 p.m. Wednesdays, The Blind Monk, 410 Evernia St., No. 107, West Palm Beach. Ladies enjoy two-for-one specials on all wines. (561) 833-3605.

Katie McBroom

It was an intimidating question Xoliswa Ndoyiya wasn’t sure she knew how to answer. It was about 20 years ago and at the time she was just a young cook working at a Jewish retirement home in Johannesburg, South Africa. But a friend had urged her to apply for the job as Nelson Mandela’s personal chef.

So she did. And when he met her, he immediately put her at ease.

"I believe that you are a great cook, but can you cook our food?" Ndoyiya recalled being asked by Mandela, who had only recently been released from prison. It was a reference to the Xhosa foods Mandela had grown up eating, simple dishes rich with porridge-like maize, beans and vegetables.

Ndoyiya said she smiled. Yes, she knew ukutya kwasekhaya, the term South Africa’s Xhosa clan uses to describe comfort food.

"That was the end of the interview. I was hired," she said in a recent telephone interview. She has been with him ever since.

And now she is sharing the home cooking Mandela loves in a cookbook, Ukutya Kwasekhaya: Tastes from Nelson Mandela’s Kitchen (Real African Publishers), one of two recent books to use food as a fresh way to recount Mandela’s life from anti-apartheid fighter to prisoner to president to retired statesman.

Ndoyiya’s book, co-written with Anna Trapido, is a charming collection of mostly rustic, classic South African recipes, including many of Mandela’s childhood favorites.

Both books previously had been published in South Africa, but just now have been released in the United States.

Trapido, a chef and food writer, also wrote her own book, Hunger for Freedom (Jacana Media), a more academic account of the role food has played throughout Mandela’s life, from his childhood to during and after his time as South Africa’s first black president.

Trapido unearthed fascinating, humanizing stories, including that of Mandela’s first meal after his release from prison. The timing of his release was so sudden, there had been no time to prepare.

So it was decided at the last minute that Mandela (also often called Madiba, another term of affection) should dine at Archbishop Desmund Tutu’s home in Cape Town.

"We had no idea what (Madiba) liked to eat, so we thought, well, chicken is the safest thing, and I rushed to the nearest 7-Eleven," Lavinia Crawford-Browne, Tutu’s personal assistant, recalls in the book. "I bought up every chicken piece I could find and a crate of Coke, which turned out not to be enough and I had to go back.”

Tex-Mex fare gets a huge kick from Korean kimchi. You may have eyed it in the grocery store and wondered what to do with the stuff.

Well, tuck this powerful pickle snugly in your cart and kiss ordinary quesadillas goodbye forever.

Kimchi is a pungent, lip-puckering mix of naturally fermented napa cabbage, garlic, chilis, ginger and spices.

Touted as one of world’s healthiest foods, the fiery condiment fights cancer, is loaded with vitamins, as well as an army of good bacteria for seamless digestive health.

Add a dab to noodles, rice, stews, wraps or sammies. Or pucker up for a straight-from-the jar tangy treat.

Kim-Chic Quesadillas with Tamari Roasted Tomatillo and Tomato Salsa

Serves 4 as entrée, 8 as appetizer

FOR THE SALSA:

6 plum tomatoes, halved

4 fresh tomatillos, shucks removed and halved

Olive oil, for drizzling and sautéing

Coarse salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons ginger paste

2 red chilies, seeded and chopped

3 tablespoons tamari sauce

1 teaspoon agave syrup

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

4 teaspoons roasted sesame seeds

FOR THE QUESADILLAS:

Olive oil cooking spray

3 cups chopped napa cabbage

2 cloves garlic, minced, divided

1 tablespoon ginger paste

1 1/2 cups kimchi, drained

4 (10-inch) flour tortillas

1/2 cup minced fresh cilantro

3/4 cups shredded sharp cheddar

3/4 cups shredded Monterey jack cheese

For the salsa: Preheat oven to 300º. Line a baking dish with foil and place the tomatoes and tomatillos cut-side up. Drizzle with olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Slow roast for 2 hours; remove from oven and set aside.

Heat a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, coating bottom with olive oil. Add onions, seasoning with salt and pepper; sauté until softened, about 10 minutes. Add 2 cloves garlic, 2 tablespoons ginger paste and the red chilies; sauté 2 minutes more. Stir in roasted tomatoes and tomatillos, breaking up with a wooden spoon. Add tamari and bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in agave.

Once cooled, transfer mixture to a blender and pulse on lowest setting until salsa is mixed, but still chunky. If you have an immersion blender, skip this step and puree salsa right in the pan. Stir in sesame oil and sesame seeds. (Can be made up to a week ahead. Store refrigerated in an airtight container.)

For the quesadillas: Heat a large nonstick pan over medium-high heat, and coat bottom with cooking spray. Add napa cabbage with a few tablespoons of water and sauté until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add garlic, ginger and kimchi. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring often.

Lay the tortillas on a flat surface. On one half, layer the cilantro, cheeses and kimchi mixture. Fold over other half. Repeat with remaining tortillas.

Heat a clean, nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Cooking quesadillas about 2 minutes each side, until cheeses are melted and the tortillas are browned.

To serve: Cut quesadillas into quarters and drizzle with reserved salsa. Garnish with extra sesame seeds if desired. (Leftover salsa can be used in myriad ways – dip for chips, atop grilled chicken, chops or fish. Vegetarians and vegans can pump up sautéed tofu or tempeh.)

DIVA CONFESSIONS

Fresh, homemade salsa is always best.

But if the thought of roasting, stirring and blending your own makes you crave a long nap, by all means give yourself a break.

Don’t forgo a fun and fabulous recipe just because you’re lazy: cheat!

Grab a jar of salsa from the pantry, heat it up with minced garlic and ginger paste, add some tamari, sesame oil and sesame seeds, and voilà!

You’re done in minutes, ready to move onto more important matters.

Like choosing (and tasting) the perfect wine or beer to accompany.

Tom Gregersen has been responsible for planning, designing and installing more than 100 exhibitions at the Morikami. (Damon Higgins / Palm Beach Post)

THE SCENE MAKER: 
TOM GREGERSEN

WHO HE IS: Gregersen is the cultural director at the Morikami Museum and Japanese Gardens in Delray Beach. He holds a master’s degree in Japanese Studies from the University of Michigan, and before joining the Morikami in 1978, Gregersen taught English as a second language in Japan. During his tenure at the Morikami, Gregersen has been responsible for planning, designing and installing more than 100 museum exhibitions and for overseeing the museum’s curatorial, collections, and education departments. Gregersen has authored or edited several exhibition-related catalogues and is currently working on a book about the Yamato Colony. He and his wife Sandi have one son and one daughter and live in Delray Beach.

A few of his favorite things:
FAVORITE CULTURAL INSTITUTION TO VISIT (OTHER THAN THE MORIKAMI!):
The Norton Museum of Art. I enjoy their special exhibitions and East Asian offerings, and I’m grateful that they are not competing with Morikami for Japanese art.
The Norton Museum of Art, 1451 S. Olive Ave., West Palm Beach. Info: (561) 832-5196; norton.org

FAVORITE MOVIE THEATER:
The Regal Cinema. My son is employed there.
Regal Delray Beach 18, 1660 S. Federal Highway, Delray Beach. Info: (561) 272-0510; regmovies.com

FAVORITE PLACE TO SEE A LIVE PERFORMANCE:
I’ve enjoyed the offerings at the Kravis Center, but also like to sample the jazz offerings at the Arts Garage in Delray Beach.
The Kravis Center, 701 Okeechobee Blvd., West Palm Beach. Info: (561) 832-7469; kravis.org
The Arts Garage, 180 N.E. First St., Delray Beach. Info: (561) 450-6357; artsgarage.org

FAVORITE PLACE TO RELAX AND RECHARGE:
Sandi and I sometimes take books and beach chairs to the beach in the mid- to late-afternoon.
Delray Municipal Beach, South Ocean Boulevard. Info: (561) 272-3224.

FAVORITE PLACE FOR A QUIET DINNER:
Seasons 52 in Boca Raton offers consistently good food with a seasonal touch as well as good service in relaxed surroundings.
Seasons 52, 2300 N.W. Executive Center Drive, Boca Raton. Info: (561) 998-9952; seasons52.com

FAVORITE WAY TO SPEND A SUNDAY AFTERNOON:
Sandi and I sometimes go walking at the Wakodahatchee and Green Cay nature preserves.
The Wakodahatchee Wetlands, 13026 Jog Road, Delray Beach. Info: (561) 641-3429.
Green Cay Nature Center, 12800 Hagen Ranch Road Boynton Beach. Info: (561) 966-7000.

FAVORITE PLACE IN THE MORIKAMI’S GARDENS:
The Late Rock Garden, especially in the afternoon. It’s a delightful enclosed space with benches which looks out over an expanse of raked gravel with a few large boulders placed judiciously here and there.
Morikami Museum and Japanese Gardens, 4000 Morikami Park Road, Delray Beach. Info: (561) 495-0233. morikami.org

WHY I LOVE LIVING IN PALM BEACH COUNTY:
Of course the climate but also the tremendous variety of things to do and access to museums, libraries, theaters, and nature centers.

SPOILER ALERT: DON’T READ ANY FURTHER IF YOU DON’T WANT TO KNOW ABOUT LAST NIGHT’S “FOOD NETWORK STAR” OR WHAT HAPPENED TO LOCAL BOY JOSH LYONS!

OK, you’re still here. So I can tell you that Josh, of soon-to-be Clematis sushi palace Fuku, his own catering company, band Fell on Deaf Ears and some awesome vests, survived the cut again on the second episode. But I’m worried that if Team Giada had not been named the winner and thus immune from elimination, our goateed guy about town might have been cooking for his life again.

The challenge saw the teams research one specific aspect of a food-famous area of New York, either soul food-laden Harlem, Italian-flavored Arthur Avenue, or the Jewish and Kosher theme of the Lower East Side. They then have to lead a bus tour through that area, using their food as an edible landmark. Josh’s team got Little Italy, and he specifically was supposed to talk about a meat market. It’s not that his sausage and peppers crostini was awful. It’s that it was just OK. And when paired with a very, very long story about how Joe Pesci and Robert DeNiro met on the phone when Pesci was working at a Little Italy restaurant that didn’t appear to have anything to do with the food he had cooked or the meat market he’d been inspired by, the scales were tipped for “Meh.” I’m worried. Come on, Josh. You’re gorgeous and funny and a rock star and we know you can cook. Make all that work for you. We want you around longer. We encourage gorgeous and talented. In fact, we prefer it.

Otherwise, I really dug last night’s episode, because it perfectly represented the two things that anyone with a cooking show should be able to master – cooking and showing. (This is not a difficult concept to understand.) It doesn’t matter how well you cook if you can’t engage an audience, because the folks on the other side of the camera can’t taste your food. They have to feel it. And it’s amazing how many of these contestants are eliminating themselves without realizing it because they can’t do both, or at least not out of their comfort zone of the food they usually cook.

“Well, won’t they be cooking their own food if they get a show, Leslie?”

Yes, technically, Person I Made Up! If they can win. But they’re on something we like to call a game show, and the way that these things work is that you are constantly thrown out of the comfort zone, and not just to judge how well you can roll with the punches and unpredictable world of live TV. It’s also because making people uncomfortable and shaking them up is good TV. And if this surprises you, you shouldn’t be on TV. That was punctuated by Team Bobby’s Kara, who completely blows not only her chicken and waffle challenge from Melba’s, but her presentation.

Kara tells us from the very beginning that she’s not comfortable with soul food, that she doesn’t know anything about it, that she doesn’t like fried chicken or waffles and basically that she’s not savvy enough to follow that with “…but I’m sure gonna find out all I can about them, because this is the challenge I landed on this here game show, and pretending it isn’t is like going on “The Price Is Right” and cussing Drew Carey out because you got Plinko instead of One Away.’” You rolled the dice, sister. Play through.

Kara’s discomfort is so palpable that when she starts her story, she not only gets flustered about describing Melba – she trips over “Black” and “African-American,” which doesn’t probably mean anything other than that she was so uncomfortable she flubbed those descriptors, which made her seem even more uncomfortable – the fact that she had to describe the woman’s race punctuates that even more. Ironically, those descriptors wouldn’t have sounded out of place if she’d actually told the story of the history of chicken and waffles – African-American musicians showed up hungry after a gig, and a resourceful cook rustled up what she had handy, thus creating a delicacy. (Convienience is how we arrived at a lot of ethnic delicacies, including chitterlings, hagis and any food involving gross meat baked inside another type of meat.)

Anyway, I am loving this team set-up, because it enages the mentors in a different way, and because it gives the contestants an added layer of advice. This doesn’t mean they have to take it, of course – you can lead a chef to the oven, but you can’t make him not screw it all up. Or something like that.

Peruvian meal prepared at La Granja chain restaurant in Palm Beach Gardens consists of rotisserie chicken, yellow rice, black beans and plantains. (Damon Higgins/The Palm Beach Post)

There’s no better bargain than freshly roasted chicken for a takeout dinner. Think about it: order burgers or pizza for a family of four and you may find yourself paying more than you intended, in terms of cash and calories.

If that rotisserie chicken is Peruvian-style pollo a la brasa, seasoned and slow-roasted, it turns weeknight take-out into a soulful affair. When La Granja, a rotisserie chicken chain with nearly 30 locations in Florida (six in Palm Beach County) and Aruba, opened a restaurant near my neighborhood, it quickly took its place in our family’s takeout roast chicken rotation.

This particular location landed in the Northlake Boulevard space formerly occupied by the Quarterdeck restaurant and, truth be told, it has yet to make the space its own. A functional bar goes largely unused (or used mostly for takeout traffic). The décor is minimal and fuss-free. The welcome station is a salad bar-like row of containers filled with fresh salsa, from the mild and oniony to the brazen and oniony.

So, in a sense, this particular La Granja, which means “farm” in Spanish, reflects none of its rural intentions. It simply feels like a chicken joint that has set up shop in an empty sports bar.

But if you choose to dine in, as we did on a recent night, you may find that the homey touches are plentiful in more important ways. The service is solid. The chicken is good and moist. (I have not tried the fare at the other locations.)

You can choose to explore the menu of roasted meats, grilled steaks, fish in various sauces, soups and sandwiches. But I find it hard to order anything but the hot, cleaver-chopped chicken – bone in, skin on and just slightly crisped.

This is fast, flavorful pollo. By the time you gather the (free) accoutrements, namely the onion-chile salsas ranging from mild to hot, your meal has steamed in from the kitchen. These various salsas – my favorite is a garlicky green salsa that’s mildly spicy – add a cool element of contrast to your hot meal. (I spoon it over La Granja’s slightly watery black beans to kick them up.) Your choice of side dishes includes fries, (very) yellow rice, black beans, fried plantains, fried yuca, and a house salad.

We ordered a whole chicken with rice and beans on a recent take-out run and brought home a meal that, easily, could feed four. We paid $13.50. We also added a side of boiled yuca ($2.50). Big mistake. The yuca, a tricky tuber to serve, was hard and lacking any kind of saucy mojo.

We’ll skip it next time. And we’ll continue to skip dessert, as it’s neither homemade nor worth the calories. But the chicken we won’t skip the chicken.

La Granja

FOOD: B

SERVICE: B

ADDRESS: 3301 Northlake Blvd., Palm Beach Gardens

TELEPHONE: (561) 775-7490

WEBSITE: LaGranja Restaurants.com

PRICE RANGE: Inexpensive

HOURS: Open daily for lunch and dinner

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Walk-ins welcome

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, including restrooms

WHAT THE GRADES

MEAN:

A – Excellent

B – Good

C – Average

D – Poor

F – Don’t bother

Bruce Seidel is confident the future of food television won’t be seen on television.

Which is why the Food Network and Cooking Channel veteran has checked out of network TV to oversee the launch of YouTube’s latest original content channel, HUNGRY. The channel, which goes live on July 2, is expected to feature a freewheeling blend of how-to and celebrity-driven food videos.

The venture is part of the Google Inc.-owned video site’s plan to launch roughly 100 channels of niche-oriented programming. Earlier this month, YouTube pledged to spend some $200 million to help market those channels across Google and its advertising network.

Seidel was drawn to the project in part for YouTube’s ability to create a more direct community with viewers than generally is possible with network television. It also offered more flexibility not just for viewers, but also for producers, who can more easily experiment with format and content.

YouTube also offers an enviably large and young demographic, truly the icing on advertisers’ cake.

“The wonderful thing about YouTube is it has 800 million users worldwide and they all need to eat,” Seidel said in a telephone interview. “I’d like to get just 1 percent of them.”

YouTube content historically has been dominated by low- and no-budget user generated videos. But Seidel, a former top executive at Food Network who oversaw the launch of its sister network, Cooking Channel, said HUNGRY will feature professionally produced videos worthy of any network.

At launch, videos will stick mostly with YouTube convention, running one to three minutes, with new episodes posted weekly. Seidel said they also are eager to explore longer format videos. By the end of the summer, the channel hopes to have close to a dozen series, all produced in partnership with multimedia studio Electus-IAC, which is responsible for the channel’s content.

One of the series will feature fellow Food Network alumnus Duff Goldman, the cake master behind that channel’s reality show “Ace of Cakes.” Goldman’s YouTube program, “Duff’s Food World,” will be a sometimes irreverent variety show focused on food pop culture, including visits to unusual restaurants and spotlights of humorous food clips from the web and TV.

Goldman also will serve as a talent and programming consultant for HUNGRY. In that role, he said he is eager to push food television both forward and backward.

“Basically, the cooking show on television is almost dead,” he said. “When you look at the programming on any kind of cable food channel, you kind of find that everything is being replaced by travelogues, competition, reality. There is not a lot of instruction.”

YouTube’s ability to promote a simple two-minute video on how to roast a chicken — something simply not done on network television — is just as alluring as creating content that pushes boundaries, Goldman said.

“It’s magic. It doesn’t have any boundaries. I don’t need to make it 22 minutes. I don’t need to make any sponsors happy. I can get away with stuff,” he said.

Other series already in production include “Brothers Green,” which features a pair of Brooklyn brothers who are musicians and “underground caterers” tackling new culinary challenges every week, and “Casserole Queens,” which focuses on two Austin women who favor retro food and entertaining.

Flexing its ability to focus on micro-niches, HUNGRY also plans series on pork, gluten-free cooking and Italian desserts.

The point is to simply try new things, Goldman said. If it works, it will continue. If it doesn’t, it won’t.

“Food is very precious. People get a little too serious about it,” he said. “There’s room for the very serious culinarians. But I also like to laugh at myself. So we’re going to do a lot of comedy. Because there’s a lot of comedy in food.”

Earlier this month, YouTube announced the launch of several other channels, including Wigs, which will focus on scripted dramas for women; and TeamUSA, which will feature content ahead of the 2012 Olympic Games.

Michael Wurster

The kitchen at The Omphoy Ocean Resort is sizzling once again, this time with the arrival of new executive chef Michael Wurster. He’s running the show at the resort’s new restaurant concept, Malcolm’s, a modern American eatery that reflects the chef’s impressive experiences.

French chicken with Dijon mustard and scallions (AP photo)

By Elizabeth Karmel

When I was young, Julia Child was as much a fixture in my family’s kitchen as she was on television.

Not only did my mother watch her, she cooked right along with her, as well. The local public television station sent the recipes in advance and my mother collected them in a three-ring binder that she still has today.

My favorite menu was what we referred to as “French Chicken,” a butterflied chicken that is slathered with a mustard, white wine and scallion sauce that bakes on during roasting, becoming a delectable crust and infusing the chicken with the heady flavors of Dijon.

The vegetable was fresh peas cooked with Boston lettuce, and dessert was a delicious apple tart with Grand Marnier-spiked applesauce and a layer of apricot-glazed apple slices on top. This menu often was served as a birthday meal, so it is a fitting menu as we near Child’s 100th-birthday celebration.

I knew my mother adapted Child’s recipes, but I thought she created the menu herself. However, a few years ago I was rummaging in an antique store and I found a limited-edition cookbook that compiled all the menus of Child’s television series. As I thumbed the pages, I saw the menu I’d thought was my mother’s.

I read through the recipes and realized that my favorite meal was literally taken from the show and I thanked Child for bringing a taste of France to my mother’s very Southern kitchen. I went on to become a huge Francophile, living in Paris and falling in love with the food, the culture, the sounds, everything, even the notebooks and pens!

When I came back to the United States, I started working in the food world and joined several culinary organizations. Much to my delight, even though Child was a reigning culinary icon and getting on in years, she attended the conferences and was always front and center at the seminars.

I was thrilled to meet her, and was impressed that even then she still wanted to learn more, even from people far less accomplished than herself. That characteristic influenced my life as much as her food did. I try to live everyday like I envisioned Julia Child living, eternally curious and listening to what others have to offer.

So, it is no surprise that I took my favorite childhood chicken dish and adapted it to the grill. The grill facilitates the browning and crisping of the skin and the mustard glaze, making this one chicken that you have to eat skin and all!

It may not be exactly as Julia intended, but it certainly brings her spirit into my home every time I make it, and I hope it will bring her into your home, as well.

I love the old-fashioned broiled tomato. It is simple, delicious and brightens every plate. This mustard sauce and the breadcrumbs make the best version of the dish, so I added it to the recipe and grill them while the chicken rests. If you don’t like tomatoes, skip them.

‘French Chicken’ with Dijon Mustard and Scallions

Serves: 8

Preparation: 1 1/2 hours (30 minutes active)

2 small whole chickens (about 3 to 4 pounds each)

Olive oil, for brushing, plus 1/4 cup

Kosher salt

Grains of paradise (optional) or ground black pepper

2 tablespoons white wine

1/3 cup strong Dijon mustard (such as Amora or Maille)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1 teaspoon dried thyme

Pinch of cayenne pepper

3 scallions, chopped

1 cup panko or fresh white breadcrumbs, plus extra for the tomatoes

2 to 4 medium tomatoes, halved

Heat the grill and prepare it for indirect cooking over medium heat.

Use paper towels to pat dry both chickens. Using poultry shears or a very sharp knife, one at a time cut down the length of each chicken’s backbone on both sides to remove it. Overturn the chickens to be breast side up, then break the breastbone by striking it sharply with a blunt object, such as can of beans (wash the can after use).

Spread the chickens open and lay them flat. Tuck the wing tips under the upper wings, then brush all over with olive oil.

Season with salt and grains of paradise or black pepper. Place the chickens in the center of the grill skin side up. Cover the grill and cook for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, assemble the mustard sauce. In a small bowl, whisk together the white wine and mustard. Slowly drizzle the 1/4 cup of olive oil and the butter in the mixture to blend. Add the thyme, cayenne and scallions, then mix to combine. Reserve 8 teaspoons of the mustard mixture for the tomatoes (if making).

After the chickens have cooked for 20 minutes, turn them over and spread mustard sauce on backs of the chickens. Grill, covered, for 10 minutes. Turn over to breast side up and spread mustard on the skin, then grill, covered, for another 10 minutes. Sprinkle the breast-sides of the chickens with breadcrumbs and grill, covered, for another 10 to 15 more minutes, or until juices run clear and the thickest part of the thigh registers 180º F. Remove the chickens from the heat and let them rest for 10 minutes before carving.

During the final 10 minutes of cooking time — or while the chicken rests — spread each tomato half with some of the reserved mustard sauce, then sprinkle them with breadcrumbs. Grill for 10 minutes, or until the tops are crunchy and the tomatoes are warmed through. Serve hot.

But I wonder whether the amount of sugar can be easily cut from a recipe for cakes or cookies. Isn’t baking a science that depends on precise measurements to get the proper product? Or can you easily cut 1/4 to 1/2 of the sugar and still get the same results that are less sweet? – Jane S., West Palm Beach

Answer: You are absolutely right about baking being a science, and it does depend on exact measurements, especially when you are creating something so delicate and ephemeral as the structure of a cake. But then science suddenly becomes art – and rather subjective – when you say “the proper product.”

What an American considers sweet and delicious, Europeans may find rather cloying. Sugar is just one quotient of the baking equation. When you increase it in a cake recipe without increasing the other components, you will get a particular result – sweeter, moister, slightly denser crumbs that a born American may consider more tender and melt-in-the-mouth.

Cut the sugar – by a quarter, or even half – and you will end with a slightly drier, lighter and more voluminous structure, of course not as sweet, but also more porous and a mini step closer to a bread than a brownie. Which is what the European recipe designer had all along intended, to suit the taste of his or her clientele. Both are the results of science, each intended to reach a desired – and calculated – goal, albeit somewhat different in many aspects.

Let us look at the role of sugar here. Sugar is hygroscopic, which is to say it attracts water.

So when you add extra sugar, it allows the cake crumbs to hold more water, delaying their drying out, and thus increasing the cake’s shelf life. Manufacturers know that. Increased shelf life means production can be more efficiently centralized and the products trucked to points of sale with minimal quality loss.

More and more sugar – and even better, more and more high fructose corn syrup, too – proved good for the bottom line. Over the decades, that may have exacerbated Americans’ sweet tooth, as well as their girth. Sugar in other countries of the world is not so cheap or plentiful either.

Laxer governmental controls may have contributed, too. Take the case of chocolate. In Britain, it must have 23 percent cocoa butter as in Cadbury’s; here, Hershey can get by with just 11 percent because only 10 percent cocoa fat is required.

A backlash has already begun to occur and the dangers of sugar overload in all its forms is getting more and more press coverage every day. (Consider that an average American ingests 74 pounds of sugar every year, part of it hidden in a variety of products.)

And if you want to pitch in, there are ways of eating your cake and having it, too. Cut a cup of sugar from your recipe and add three-fourth cup fruit juice concentrate to make up, minus 3 tablespoons of the recipe liquid. Adding homemade apple sauce is another way of keeping cakes moister with less sugar. Experiment and find out how much sugar you can cut to suit your own taste.

The bottom line: Sugar is absolutely necessary for baking, especially cakes, and much more, but moderation is the key word – not only for sugar but for everything in life, including our run-amok party politics.

Feedback

A couple of readers, including John, emailed to say that the Cuisinart blender-grinder, about which I had written some weeks ago, was not available at Costco for $20, as I had said I paid, but for $30. That is indeed the regular price even at Costco.

But luckily for me, it was further discounted $10 the day I bought it. It was actually my wife, Kaisari, who spotted the deal and bought it for my son Saif, when we plan to visit him in Philadelphia next month. Sorry, guys, that you missed the bargain, but it’s still a good buy at $30.

Wednesday Night Wine Tasting, 6-8 p.m., Paradiso Ristorante, 625 Lucerne Ave., Lake Worth. Enjoy award-winning wines handpicked for the occasion. $35. (561) 547-2500.

Wines of Piedmont Tasting, 6:30-8:30 p.m. Total Wine & More, 960 S. State Road 7, Wellington. From brachetto d’acqui and the crisp and alluring whites of arneis to the massive and impressive barbaresco and barolo, this class offers a selection for various palates. $25. (561) 795-9229.

THURSDAY

Hooray for IPA Beer Tasting, 6:30-8:30 p.m., Total Wine & More, 960 S. State Road 7, Wellington. For existing hop lovers and thrill seekers alike, prepare your taste buds for an India Pale Ale (IPA)-style excursion. Styles on the menu include: English IPA, Belgian IPA, American IPA, American double/imperial IPA, and other hoppy goodness. (561) 795-9229.

SATURDAY

Bordeaux 2009 Tasting, 2-4 p.m., Virginia Philip Wine Shop & Academy, 101 N. Clematis St., Suite 150, West Palm Beach. Experience a selection of highly regarded wines. $45. (561) 721-6000.

TUESDAY

Wine Dinner at Marcello’s La Sirena, 6:30-9 p.m., Marcello’s La Sirena, 6316 S. Dixie Highway, West Palm Beach. Dine Magazine has teamed up with Marcello’s La Sirena to host a six-course wine-pairing dinner. $85-$95. (561) 585-3128.

ONGOING

Wine Down Wednesday, 5-10 p.m., Romeo-n-Juliette’s Caffe, 1544 Cypress Drive, Jupiter. Half-price bottles of wine. (561) 768-3967 .

Pasta Tuesdays and Winesday, Maison Carlos, 3010 S. Dixie Highway, West Palm Beach. The restaurant’s pasta dishes are $10 on Tuesday, and on Wednesday, enjoy your own wine with no corkage fee. (561) 659-6524.

Ladies’ Night, 9 p.m. Wednesdays, The Blind Monk, 410 Evernia St., No. 107, West Palm Beach. Ladies enjoy two-for-one specials on all wines. (561) 833-3605 .

pbpulse.com/swirlgirls

WHOLE FOODS MARKET, 2635 State Road 7, Wellington. (561) 904-4000.

• Food for Thought, 6:30-8 p.m. Wednesday . Feeling forgetful, in a fog, or just an overall tired state? Attention difficulties and fatigue can all be signs that your brain is in need of balancing and nourishment. Lifestyle center specialist Sherri will suggest her top picks for foods to eat and foods to avoid in order for your brain to function at its best.
• Mom’s Morning Escape, 9-11 a.m. Friday Moms will receive a free mini-massage, coffee or tea, and muffin from the Coffee Bar. Free.
• Coffee & Tea Club, 10 a.m. Saturday . All club members that attend will be offered a taste of the featured coffee or tea and may choose one sample of either to bring home. Free.
• Brunch with Sherri Class, 11 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Tuesday . Learn to create an easy brunch. Menu includes brewed mint iced tea, veggie frittata, Mediterranean salad, and a delicious fruit compote with goat cheese. $10.
• Block Party: Great Deals from the Whole Deal, 5:30-7 p.m. Tuesday . Enjoy free samples around the store and vote for your favorite sample. Free.

WILLIAMS-SONOMA, The Gardens Mall, 3101 PGA Blvd., Palm Beach Gardens. (561) 799-2425

• Summertime Grilling Fun, 6-8:30 p.m. Sunday . $60.
• Farmers Market: Spring Dinner Party, 6-8:30 p.m. Tuesday . $50.

IN THE KITCHEN, 389 Tequesta Drive, Tequesta. (561) 747-7117.

• French Bistro Cuisine, 6:30-8:30 p.m. Thursday . Feast on mussels bourguignon, frisée salad with dijon vinaigrette and shaved beets, French bistro steak with Provençal butter, pommes puree, and chocolate pot de crème. $75.

WHOLE FOODS MARKET, 1400 Glades Road, Boca Raton. (561) 447-0000.

• Vegan Delights, 1-2 p.m. Thursday . Get your taste buds ready to try some unique foods to help create a well-balanced, healthful diet, minus the meat. $5.
• Sustainable Seafood Class with Chef Shawn, 7-8 p.m. Friday . Learn how to create a delicious dish using wild salmon. Free.
• Learn To Grow with Farmer Jay: Micro Greens, 1-2 p.m. Saturday . Farmer Jay will answer questions and demonstrate the micro-green growing process. Take home a tray with soil and seeds to grow at home. $5.
• HSH Cooking With ANDI, 7-8 p.m. Tuesday . Participants will learn about the ANDI System and how to prepare and enjoy items utilizing the top-scoring items. $5.

WAVE 2700 RESTAURANT, 2700 N. Federal Highway, Boca Raton, (561) 361-2700 .

• Get Veg-a-Cated, 6:30 p.m. every Monday. A vegan-education program followed by a vegan dinner with organic wine. $25.

PUBLIX APRON’S COOKING SCHOOL, Polo Club Shoppes, 5050 Champion Blvd., Suite D2, Boca Raton, (561) 994-4461 or (561) 994-4883 .

• Sweet Sensations Baking Series, 6 p.m. today . Learn the secrets to making mouth-watering pastries and desserts in this comprehensive three-part workshop. $150.
• Spring Dinner Party, 6:30 p.m. Friday. Learn recipes and ideas to ensure your next dinner party is a hit. $45.

RISTORANTE SAPORI, 301 Via De Palmas, Boca Raton, (561) 367-9779 .

• Beginner cooking classes, 11:30 a.m.2:30 p.m. every other Saturday with chef Marco Pindo. Reservations are required . $50.

Celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse discusses his foundation at The Breakers. (Chris Salata/PBDN)

Emeril Lagasse is known to “kick it up a notch” when preparing one of his signature New Orleans-style dishes. But when it comes to philanthropy, the celebrity chef aspires to ascend to even higher levels.

Lagasse discussed his charitable endeavors last week with Dana Cowin, editor-in-chief of Food & Wine, as part of the American Express Publishing Luxury Summit conference at The Breakers. “I’ve met a lot of philanthropic people over the years,” she said. “With Emeril, I met the master of personal philanthropy.”

Lagasse has raised more then $15 million for his foundation, which was established in 2002, and has assisted in many other fundraising efforts for other organizations over the years. It wasn’t until Lagasse reached a certain level of success that he could devote attention to helping the disadvantaged.

Since he emerged on the scene in the early ’80s, taking over the kitchen at New Orleans’ famed Commander’s Palace, Lagasse has gone on to open and operate 13 restaurants across the country, with the Emeril name attached to a range of products .

Lagasse’s initial efforts were focused, not surprisingly, on culinary-related concerns .

The Lagasse foundation funded the building of an edible schoolyard at a New Orleans school, adding a cafeteria and culinary school classrooms over time. It isn’t just about cooking, however. There are “life skills” taught as well, he said.

“It’s about making a change,” Lagasse said. Just after the city was devastated by Hurricane Katrina, kids at the school tested at the 56th percentile. “Last year, they scored at the 80th percentile,” he said.

In New Orleans, especially, Lagasse has spearheaded local initiatives. His foundation started the city’s first academy of culinary arts and a high-school training program. It’s also supported summer programs for 10,000 children in New Orleans, in turn serving 130,000 meals to needy kids.

“I’m just one engine,” Lagasse said. “But one person can make a difference.”

- Robert Janjigian, Palm Beach Daily News

POP-UP ALERT: Dynamic duo take on ‘Sunday Supper and Monday Leftovers’

The two chefs are vastly different in culinary style, but share an equal passion for fresh, local ingredients and global flavors. On Sunday and Monday nights, chefs Lindsay Autry and Roy Villacrusis bring their combined talents to a Palm Beach Gardens “pop-up” restaurant.

They’re calling the two-night adventure at the Cook’s Studio “Sunday Supper and Monday Leftovers,” a five-course dinner featuring local Florida ingredients.

It’s a prime opportunity to sample dishes from two stellar chefs, currently free agents, before they embark on new culinary projects. Autry, a recent Top Chef finalist, is former executive chef for Michelle Bernstein’s restaurant at The Omphoy.

Villacrusis, formerly of Kubo Asiatic restaurant, is about to launch a longer-term pop-up sushi bar, serving dishes omakase (chef’s choice) style.

Sunday Supper and Monday Leftovers

When: Sunday and Monday, 7 p.m.

Where: Cook’s Studio, 3830 Northlake Blvd., Palm Beach Gardens

Tickets: $115 (including tax and tip), available exclusively at www.LindsayAutry. com

— Liz Balmaseda, Palm Beach Post Food Editor

TW … EATS

‘Chez Jean Pierre…..Palm Beach….. Artichokes……sunshine…… The fabulous @hilariathomas.’

Tweeted by 30 Rock star Alec Baldwin (@alecbaldwin) during a recent visit to Palm Beach with his fiancée, yoga instructor Hilaria Thomas

‘If you ask how far anything is in Palm Beach, the answer is always 10 minutes. I love this little town.’

Tweeted by Baldwin’s fiancée (@hilariathomas)