The bath, it always seemed, was the only way-station for all those ears of corn. The boiling water bath at the back of the stove awaited its height-of-summer assignment: turning just-picked corn into corn you couldn’t wait to sink your teeth into.

Along came the grill. And, well, might as well put away that tired old pot.

Emboldened, one summer’s eve we did as instructed. Adding chili butter to the corn takes it up a notch.

Janine MacLachlan, who teaches farmstand cooking at her Michigan farmhouse, suggests this surefire blend:

Grilled Corn with Chili Butter

8 ears of corn

CHILI BUTTER:

1 teaspoon chili powder

3⁄4 teaspoon cumin

1⁄4 teaspoon each: ground red pepper, ground coriander, salt and hot pepper sauce.

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

Combine ingredients for chili butter. Set aside.

Bend back but do not yank off the corn husks. Pull away the silks, then return husks to their hula-skirt position. Soaked in cold water 30 to 60 minutes.

Toss corn on hot grill, rolling as husks turned to golden brown or beyond. Scoop off grill and let cool for just a minute.

Peel back husks, spread chili butter on kernels, and replace husks (you can tie with kitchen string soaked in water to prevent scorching). Grill until slightly charred.

Serve and enjoy.