The Palm Beach Post
By Charles Passy   |  Kid-friendly meals, Lunch, Recipes  |  August 11, 2009

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Back-to-school specials: Food calendar

Helping your family eat healthy in the new school year

Five chef/parents tell you how to pack more than the usual PB&J and potato chips.

When it comes to packing lunch for the kids, a culinary professional wears two hats.

First, there’s the gourmet side: A pro can’t easily settle for sending their kids off to school with your basic, boring PB&J sandwich. But there’s also the parental side: A pro has to pack items a kid will actually eat.
With school starting in just a few days, we asked five local culinary professionals about how they approach the brown-bagging dilemma. Plus, we got them to submit a recipe that’s a favorite among their brood. We hope their words will serve as parental inspiration for the long school year ahead.

Nick Morfogen, a chef at 32 East in Delray Beach, and his wife, Stephanie (with Alex, 1), pack their boys' – Niko, 12 (front left), Joey, 10 (front right), and Luca, 5 (top right) – lunches with apples and chicken cutlet sandwiches. Meghan McCarthy/The Palm Beach Post

Nick Morfogen, a chef at 32 East in Delray Beach, and his wife, Stephanie (with Alex, 1), pack their boys' – Niko, 12 (front left), Joey, 10 (front right), and Luca, 5 (top right) – lunches with apples and chicken cutlet sandwiches. Meghan McCarthy/The Palm Beach Post

Nick Morfogen
Executive chef/partner at 32 East in Delray Beach
His children:
Alex (1), Luca (5), Joey (10) and Niko (12)
His own school lunch memories: Growing up in New York’s Long Island, Morfogen did the cafeteria thing for his middle and high school years — for better (Friday pizza days) and worse (Wednesday fish days). He admits that when he just couldn’t bear the thought of eating the cafeteria food, he’d go to the snack bar and buy some milk and packaged chocolate chip cookies and call that a lunch.
His brown-bag philosophy: Morfogen makes packing a lunch and snack a science. He breaks it down to a sandwich or other main item, a piece of fruit, another healthy offering (say, applesauce), some chips or pretzels and something sweet. If it sounds like a lot of items, Morfogen says it’s important to give kids options — and to give them the ability to trade with their classmates (even though “that kind of defeats the purpose,” he concedes).

What he gives in on: Pringles — he thinks they’re way too “synthetic,” but his kids love them.

His biggest blunder: Always forgetting to remind his kids to take their lunch with them — he’s had to drive back to school one too many times to deliver the meal.

His recipe: Chicken Cutlet Sandwiches

This is Nick Morfogen’s version of his grandmother’s beloved recipe — she usually makes it for her great-grandchildren once a week, but he’s come up with his own when she’s not available. Morfogen says it’s important to pack sandwiches with a cold pack if your kids don’t have a refrigerator they can use at school.

Makes 4 sandwiches

For chicken:

4 4-ounce chicken breasts, sliced thinly

2 eggs, beaten with a drop of water

1/2 cup bread crumbs

2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, grated

4 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

For mayonnaise:

1 egg yolk

1/4 teaspoon garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 lemon, zested and juiced

4 ounces olive oil
Salt to taste

For assembly:

8 slices of whole wheat bread

1 head bibb lettuce

4 slices tomato (optional)

Place flour on a plate, egg mixture in a bowl and bread crumbs mixed with Parmesan on another plate.
Working with one chicken breast at a time, dredge the chicken in the flour, shake off excess and then dip into egg mixture. Lift chicken from the egg mixture and let drip for a few seconds. Dredge the chicken into the bread crumbs and set chicken on a pan lined with wax paper. Repeat with the other chicken breasts.
In a large skillet with straight sides, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Place chicken breasts into pan carefully and cook until golden brown on both sides. Remove chicken and set on a clean kitchen towel to drain.

While the chicken breasts are cooling, make mayonnaise. In stainless steel bowl, whisk egg yolk with the garlic, mustard and lemon zest and juice.

Very, very slowly and in a steady stream add oil, whisking constantly. If mayonnaise appears too thick, add a drop of water when all the oil is emulsified into bowl. Season with bit of salt and refrigerate.
Assemble the sandwiches by laying out all slices of bread. Spread the mayonnaise on all the bread slices, then top four of the slices with one leaf of bibb lettuce. Place a chicken breast on each and top with another lettuce leaf. Add the sliced tomato at this point if you’re using them. Finish assembling sandwiches with remaining bread slices.

Notes: If you don’t have time to make mayonnaise, substitute store-bought kind and add garlic, mustard and lemon. (It’s almost as good.) And to give sandwich an extra boost, add a slice of prosciutto and buffalo mozzarella.

Michael Rolchigo, chef at the Jupiter Island Grill, with Marina, 13, and Tyler, 17. His trick: Make an extra-large supper so that leftovers can be lunch. Richard Graulich, The Post

Michael Rolchigo, chef at the Jupiter Island Grill, with Marina, 13, and Tyler, 17. His trick: Make an extra-large supper so that leftovers can be lunch. Richard Graulich, The Post

Michael Rolchigo
Executive chef at Jupiter Island Grill in Jupiter

His children: Marina (13) and Tyler (17)

His own school lunch memories: They’re more like memories of Grandma’s cooking. That’s because Rodrigo grew up in Utica, N.Y., with his Italian grandmother — and she prepared lots of Italian favorites for his school lunches. Meatball and steak sandwiches were must-haves.

His brown-bagging philosophy: Just as his grandmother did, Rolchigo prepares an extra-large supper, so he has built-in leftovers for lunch č in other words, last night’s skirt steak becomes today’s skirt steak sandwich.

He also gets his kids to eat more fruits and veggies by opting for the highest-quality version of anything — think vine-ripened tomatoes instead of the cheap kind. “Something that has some flavor to it,” as Rolchigo explains.

What he gives in on: Chips, especially Doritos with his son. “He eats them like they’re going out of style,” says Rodrigo.

His biggest blunder: A crispy tilapia sandwich. Getting kids to eat fish is always problematic — Rolchigo says he’s gotten his to enjoy it as an entree, but selling it as a sandwich proved a tougher challenge.

His recipe: Marinated Skirt Steak with Portobello Mushrooms

This is really a dinner recipe, but one that makes fine leftovers for a to-go lunchtime sandwich. Just customize the sandwiches to your kids’ tastes — Michael Rolchigo makes one version for his daughter with ranch dressing and another for his son with Buffalo-style hot sauce

Serves 4

4 6-ounce skirt steaks

4 medium portobello mushroom caps

Marinade for steak:

11/2 cups Frank’s RedHot sauce

1/2 cup molasses

1/2 cup teriyaki sauce

4 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon fresh chopped garlic

1 teaspoon black pepper

Marinade for mushrooms:

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup olive oil

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

For steak: Combine all marinade ingredients in a mixing bowl, then marinate steaks for 6 hours in mixture. Grill steaks over hot open flames for 2 minutes on each side till medium to medium rare. Slice steaks thinly with a sharp knife.

For mushrooms: Combine all marinade ingredients in a mixing bowl. Coat portobello mushroom caps with mixture and let sit for 1 hour. Grill the mushrooms for 2 minutes on each side. Place mushrooms in a bowl, cover with clear wrap and let sit for 20 minutes.

For dinner, serve steak and mushrooms together, perhaps with a baked potato or mashed potatoes. For lunch, combine steak and mushrooms with shredded lettuce in a sandwich or wrap.

Suzanne Otero (second from left), and her boyfriend, John Carlino, with their granola treat they prepare for Noah, 10, and Francesca, 13, to take to school in Palm Beach Gardens. Bill Ingram, The Post

Suzanne Otero (second from left), and her boyfriend, John Carlino, with their granola treat they prepare for Noah, 10, and Francesca, 13, to take to school in Palm Beach Gardens. Bill Ingram, The Post

Suzanne Otero
Education/nutrition consultant at Cooks Inc. cooking school in Jupiter (her boyfriend, John Carlino, is founder and chef at Cooks Inc.)
Her children:

Noah Otero-Vargas (10), Francesca Otero-Vargas (13)

Her own memories of school lunch: During elementary school, the New York-born and raised Otero had the benefit of going home for lunch — and her stay-at-home mom fed her a steady diet of tomato soup and grilled-cheese sandwiches. When she got older, Otero packed her own lunch — yogurt with Cheerios (“for some crunch”) was her favorite quick-grab option.

Her brown-bagging philosophy: Given the fact that she has two kids with distinct and often completely opposite tastes — her daughter likes mayo; her son can’t stand it — Otero has learned that it’s important to let them prepare and pack their own lunches, especially now that they’re older. But to keep things on the healthier side, Otero limits choices by avoiding keeping junk around the house.

What she gives in on: A couple of sweet treats — chocolate-covered Craisins (sweetened dried cranberries) for her daughter, Stella D’oro Breakfast Treat cookies for her son.

Her biggest blunder: Remember that part about the daughter liking mayo and the son hating it? Well, you can guess what happened: When Otero used to prepare her kids’ lunches, she once sent them off to school with each other’s sandwiches. “It was horrible,” she says of the resulting experience.


Her recipe: Homemade Granola

Suzanne Otero developed this recipe with her chef boyfriend, John Carlino, so that she’d have a totally custom-made snack option for kids — meaning if your kids prefer a different nut than cashews, go ahead and make the substitution (or eliminate nuts altogether). Otero also notes that the granola goes great with yogurt.

2 1/2 cups rolled oats

1/2 cup wheat germ

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1/2 cup sunflower seeds

1/2 cup chopped cashews (or any nut)

1/2 cup shredded coconut

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1/2 cup maple syrup

1/4 cup honey

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon almond extract

1/2 cup dried cherries (or any dried fruit)

1/2 cup Craisins

Preheat oven to 350.

Combine liquids in a large bowl.

Mix the oats, wheat germ, cinnamon, brown sugar, sunflower seeds, cashews and coconut, in a large bowl and slowly pour the liquids into the dry mix.

Stir with a large spoon to combine well. Pour the mixture onto a large cookie sheet pan and place in the oven.
Bake 20 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Bake 15 minutes longer for crunchier texture.
Remove from the oven and add the dried fruit.

Allow granola to cool thoroughly before transferring to an airtight storage container. This will keep for four weeks when properly stored.

Neeraj Mahani, a chef at The Breakers, and his wife, Neeta Mahani, will send their sons Manan, 6, and Tanmay, 2, to school with lunches of fresh gobhi aur piaz paratha – cauliflower and onion paratha with mint chutney. Meghan McCarthy, The Post

Neeraj Mahani, a chef at The Breakers, and his wife, Neeta Mahani, will send their sons Manan, 6, and Tanmay, 2, to school with lunches of fresh gobhi aur piaz paratha – cauliflower and onion paratha with mint chutney. Meghan McCarthy, The Post

Neeraj Mahani
Chef at The Breakers in Palm Beach

His children: Tanmay (2), Manan (6)

His own school lunch memories: Mahani grew up in India — New Delhi, to be exact — with a father who loved to cook. He prepared traditional Indian fare for lunch: lentil stews (dal), stuffed breads (paratha), basmati rice. Mahani recalls that if his father couldn’t finish making lunch before he left for school, Dad would go the extra step and deliver it to him.

His brown-bag philosophy: Mahani makes food safety his chief concern, especially given Florida’s heat. That means always being conscious of packing items that will travel and keep without refrigeration (beyond a cold pack). He also makes his lunches something of a cultural lesson — he emphasizes Indian foods, though he’s flexible enough to allow for an American favorite or two.

What he gives in on: Frozen pizzas. But when he cooks and packs them to go, Mahani might “throw in some curried chicken” on top.

His biggest blunder: Carrots and peanut butter. He thought the combo might encourage his kids to eat veggies. “No way,” he says of their response.

His recipe: Gobhi Aur Piaz Paratha (Stuffed Indian Bread with Cauliflower and Red Onions)
Makes 4 paratha

For bread:

3 cups durum wheat flour (use some extra for dusting)

5 tablespoons ghee (clarified butter)

Water (enough to make for a stiff dough)

For stuffing:

1 medium size cauliflower (either grated or cut in small diced pieces)

1 red onion (cut in small diced pieces)

1/2-inch ginger, minced

1 tablespoon cilantro (chopped)

1/2 teaspoon cumin

Salt (to taste)

1/4 teaspoon garam masala (available in any Indian grocery store)

Make a stiff dough with flour and water. Add a teaspoon of ghee to finished dough and knead. Leave it to rest for 20 minutes, covered under a wet towel. Make the stuffing by combining the above ingredients.
Make balls out of the dough (3-4 ounces each). Roll out each ball so that it’s a medium-thick flatbread. Place 2 tablespoons of stuffing in center of each flatbread and bring corners of the flatbread to center, encasing stuffing and making a ball again.

Dust the stuffed ball with the flour. Roll it out again softly so that it’s a medium-thick flatbread. Take care so that the stuffing does not ooze out.

Bake on one side on a medium hot griddle for a minute. Turn on other side and cook for another minute. Apply ghee on the cooked paratha (bread) and keep baking for a little bit longer č lower the heat but make sure both sides are golden brown by flipping at regular intervals. (By this time, the cauliflower and onions are just cooked.)

Apply some more ghee on top and serve hot or pack the finished paratha for lunch. You can serve with fresh plain yogurt, mango achar (available in any Indian grocery store) or mint chutney.

Thierry Beaud and his children, Remi (left), 6, and Sophie, 9, in their kitchen in West Palm Beach. Beaud is owner of Pistache restaurant in downtown West Palm Beach. Taylor Jones, The Post

Thierry Beaud and his children, Remi (left), 6, and Sophie, 9, in their kitchen in West Palm Beach. Beaud is owner of Pistache restaurant in downtown West Palm Beach. Taylor Jones, The Post

Thierry Beaud
Proprietor of Pistache in West Palm Beach
His children:
Remi (6) and Sophie (9)

His own memories of school lunch: Growing up in France, Beaud recalls the midday meal as a much grander affair than the American version: “It was always a three-course meal. I remember entree-style meals as opposed to pizza or burgers.”

His brown-bagging philosophy: First and foremost, Beaud says he wants to make sure he’s feeding his kids “something they like.” As a result, he often begins the lunch conversation the night before, going over menu possibilities.

He’s conscious about offering healthy foods, but he tries to make them as fun and colorful as possible — cubed pineapple and baby carrots are often part of the lunches he packs.

What he gives in on: His kids love packaged cookies, so Beaud will occasionally include them. But to keep portion sizes in check, he buys the 100-calories-a-bag varieties.

His biggest blunder: A chicken salad with apples: “Almost like a Waldorf salad,” explains Beaud. “They sure didn’t like that,” he says of his kids’ reaction.

His recipe: Chopped Salad with Toasted Pita

Beaud says this protein-rich salad is more kid-friendly by virtue of it being chopped — ‘once you chop something, it’s much smaller and you can eat it with a spoon,’ he explains. He makes a version that serves two — so it can be packed for a pair of lunches.

Serves 2

3-4 leaves of romaine hearts

1/2 ripe tomato (UglyRipe brand preferred)

1/4 cup canned red beets

1 boiled small potato

8-10 raw baby carrots

2 hard-boiled eggs

2 ounces feta cheese

1/4 cup canned chickpeas

Dijon vinaigrette with herbs (see instructions below)

1 whole wheat pita, toasted and sliced in two

Prepare vinaigrette by mixing equal parts extra virgin olive, vegetable oil and red wine vinegar with Dijon mustard (to taste) and herbes de Provence or Italian herbs (to taste).

Chop romaine leaves, tomato, beets and potatoes into half-inch pieces/cubes. Chop carrots in very fine cubes or grate them. Chop eggs and feta into quarter-inch cubes.

Mix all ingredients, including the chickpeas, and pack in a plastic storage container(s).

Dress the salad with vinaigrette right before it’s packed — provided your kids eat lunch early in the day. If they eat later, pack the vinaigrette on the side.

Wrap one-half toasted pita separately in a napkin so it stays crispy.

4 Responses to “Local chefs brown-bag it gourmet-style”

  1. robert says:

    Eating the healthy way is the best thing to do. Eating veggies is one thing.Try the vegetable recipes at tanya’s site, I liked them!

  2. Jonam says:

    Nice travel on your blog

  3. Great Granola receipe… I sprinkled it over ice cream, cereal, applesuce, etc. Loved it. Thanks to the Otero-Carlino granola I am no longer adding whipped cream to my desserts and eating healthier.

  4. Rajeev Janveja, Corporate Chef, TFS, Mumbai says:

    Great recipes, all the very best…I know Neeraj Mahani very well and is great to know he is spreading indian cuisine all over..all the best to all the chefs on this site..

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