A plate of homemade empanadas with dipping sauce. (RAY GRAHAM, The Palm Beach Post)

How far would you go to revive your senses with a favorite taste from your childhood? I have searched throughout Palm Beach County for the perfect Argentine empanada, one that takes me back to the tastes and aromas of my hometown, Buenos Aires. I crave the native flavors of this tidy turnover, the perfect portable meal to sip with a glass of ruby red malbec.

A true Argentine empanada — defined by its delicate crust and well-seasoned filling — is rare to find here. At least it is to my palate. Granted, there are a handful of good empanada vendors across the county (a few are listed in the adjacent box). But since the empanada I crave is the empanada of my youth, I make my own.

When I was growing up, the typical filling for a meat empanada was made with onions, tomatoes, hard boiled eggs, peppers, olives and in some cases raisins. There were also sweet empanadas, filled with quince paste or the traditional sweet potato paste. (Empanada makers in other Latin countries might use guava and cream cheese, apple, pumpkin or other fruits.)

The crust of an empanada is as important as the ingredients it's filled with. (RAY GRAHAM, The Palm Beach Post)

These international delights are quite easy to make and, of course, they don’t have to be meaty. They can also be filled with seafood, ham and cheese, shredded chicken, tomato and anchovies or cheese and onions, as you will find them in Argentina.

Empanadas can also be juicier or spicier, cooked in a standard oven or a rustic Argentinean one made of mud or bricks, or fried. They can be seasoned with the unique cumin from Buenos Aires or the hot chili pepper from Peru.

Mastering the crust

But the filling is only one part of the empanada equation. A truly great empanada is all about the crust. The dough for the traditional Argentine empanada, which can be baked or fried, is usually made with wheat flour and lard, resulting in a crispy, light and flaky texture.

And then there are the intangibles, the sense of community that comes with making empanadas for family gatherings. In my childhood home, the cooking and filling and dough pressing and baking would be part of the whole gathering. They were easy enough to make, but we were never fooled by their simplicity — we understood them to be a real treat. Anyone who thinks memorable feasts require many dishes surely has never had a feast of fresh empanadas and good wine with friends.

So, yes, there is the filling and the crust — but the most successful empanadas are savored in communion with others.

As a child, one of my favorite kitchen tasks involved empanada making for Saturday supper. I was in charge of creating a repulgue — a special pattern pressed on the dough- to differentiate the empanadas’ fillings. Back then, making a repulgue would signify mastering an artistic technique, finger pressing the dough pockets into crescents, round pillows or beggar’s purse-style pouches.

I wanted my pattern to be perfect. Not only did it have to be visually enticing, it had to be secure enough to prevent the filling from oozing out as it baked. The pattern we used most often at my house was a spiral shape. It isn’t hard, but it does take some practice. You can also seal the empanadas with the use of an empanada press or a fork. One of my favorites, yet quite tricky, is the pouch-shape repulgue that seals the dough on top.

The perfect dipping sauce

Writer Fernanda Beccaglia eats an empanada. (RAY GRAHAM, The Palm Beach Post)

Empanadas are completely versatile: serve them as tapas or as a casual meal, eat them hot or at room temperature, enjoy them alone or paired with a great dipping sauce.

Chimichurri is that great dipping sauce. A bold herb condiment made of parsley, garlic, vinegar, oil and spices, chimichurri is often served to complement grilled meats. I’ve been told chimi is not meant for shy palates, but for those searching to glorify them. Growing up, I found the condiment to be quite strong for my young palate. However, later in life, I couldn’t get enough of it. And I found one version would resonate above all the others I sampled: my Dad’s. (I snagged his recipe, which appears with this story.) It is simple yet with a balance of fresh flavors so tempting you can have it with a simple pinch of bread.

Or, even better, with a homemade empanada.

No matter how you choose to cook or serve them, you only need a good crust, palatable filling and friends to share the warmth and joy of a good snack or meal.

Fernanda Beccaglia is a food journalist and chef based in West Palm Beach.

The empanada trail

Wildly popular throughout Latin and South America, empanadas might find their origin in Spain where the Festival de la Empanada (Empanada Festival) is part of Galician culture, taking place every year on the last Sunday in August. However, the empanada is by no means exclusively Spanish. Going back in history, some say these portable meals might have originated in Middle East, carried through by travelers, traders and cooks.

The first references seem to be centered around Persia many centuries before Christ. From there they probably migrated into Arabia. Later, the occupation of Spain by the Muslims for centuries provided a path to the Spanish culture. It is then safe to assume that conquerors and traders brought them to the Americas. Then through the ages almost every nationality developed its own empanada culinary concept; making it truly international: The English call them pasties. In the Caribbean they are called pastelitos. Brazilians call them pasteis. The Italians call them calzones and in South America, of course, they are empanadas.

VARIATIONS ON A THEME

Throughout Latin America and globally, empanadas can change both in shape and flavor.

IN BOLIVIA they are called saltenas and are made with chicken or beef, peas, carrots and potatoes. Bolivian empanadas tend to be juicier and sweeter than Chilean’s.

CHILE provides a wide range of fillings including its specialty: seafood. The most common one is made with seasoned beef or shredded chicken, raisins, hard boiled eggs, olives and hot peppers. Pretty similar to the ones found on their next door neighbor country, Argentina.

IN BRAZIL empanadas are pies made with a rich buttery crust. They also differ in sizes; a large empanada can often be served as a main course, whereas small ones — called empadinhas — are consumed as snacks. Common Brazilian empanada fillings include seasoned meat, shredded chicken, hearts of palm, shrimp, olives and tomato sauce.

COLOMBIA AND ECUADOR share the process of cooking empanadas and fillings with some variations. However, the dough is commonly made with corn flour, instead of wheat.

EL SALVADOR, empanadas are made of fried plantains topped with sugar and sweet cream.

Craving an Argentine empanada?
These local spots bake them daily

Maradona Bakery

This bakery, run by Hugo Maradona, brother of Argentine soccer icon Diego Maradona, makes truly Argentine empanadas — beef, ham and cheese and chicken, fresh daily.
Find Maradona Bakery at 3062 Jog Road, Greenacres, at Jog and 10th Avenue North in the Buttonwood Plaza. Open seven days a week, 7 a.m.- 7 p.m. Call: (561) 429-4853

Boca Dolce Bakery & Cafe

Though pastries are their specialty, Argentine empanadas are a plus here. Made and baked daily, the place offers beef, ham and cheese, spinach and chicken.

Find Boca Dolce at 1899 N. Congress Ave. No. 3, Boynton Beach. It’s open Monday-Saturday, 8 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sundays, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Call (561) 292-9890.

DOUGH TIME!

Make your own dough or simply buy frozen puff pastry.
(Serves 24 to 36)

FOR FRIED EMPANADAS:
3 cups all purpose flour
1 cup lard (or good quality butter), room temperature
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
4 tablespoons water

Work together the flour (with sugar and salt) with the lard. Make a hole in the middle and stir in egg. Once mixed, start adding 1 tablespoon of water at a time. Knead until smooth and elastic. Let rest for about 30 minutes. Roll out until the dough is slightly thicker than a crepe (not too thin, or it may tear). Cut dough into rounds measuring about 5 inches in diameter.

FOR BAKED EMPANADAS:

2 cups all purpose flour with 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1⁄2 cup lard (or good quality butter)
1 egg lightly beaten
1⁄2 cup warm water

Work together lard and seasoned flour. Add the beaten egg. Mix with a fork. Once together, add little by little the water. Knead dough until smooth and elastic. Let rest 5 minutes before using. Roll out until the dough is slightly thicker than a crepe (not too thin, or it may tear). Cut dough into rounds measuring about 5 inches in diameter.

FEEL THE FILLINGS
(Serves 24)

MY FAVORITE BEEF FILLING:

7 to 8 slices bacon
1 lb ground meat
2 bunch scallions, sliced
1 onion, chopped
1 large tomato, chopped or crushed
2 medium red peppers, seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon red wine (to deglaze)
1 tablespoon garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon parsley, chopped
Beef broth, low sodium (if needed)
1⁄2 teaspoon paprika
1⁄2 teaspoon Italian oregano
1⁄2 teaspoon cumin
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon raisins (optional)
2 tablespoons green olives, pitted and chopped
2 hard boiled eggs, coarsely chopped (optional)

In a saucepan, over low heat, place the bacon strips and let cook slowly until fat is released and texture turns crispy. Remove bacon and set aside.

In the same pan add garlic, scallions and onion. Sautee until soft and aromatic.

Add meat to pan and sear for about 3 to 4 minutes. Deglaze with wine.

Add peppers and tomatoes. Mix well. Cook until soft. If liquid is needed, add some broth. Add the parsley to the meat. Mix together and season with cumin, paprika, oregano, salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary. Finally, add the olives. Crack the bacon with your hands — by now it shouldn’t be hot — and add it to the meat mix.

If you chose to use hard-boiled eggs and raisins, add them now. Mix well.

MOUTH-WATERING VEGGIE FILLING:

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1⁄2 onion, finely chopped or cut in thin rounds
1 garlic clove, minced
2 cups boiled, drained and chopped spinach (or frozen)
1 cup Béchamel sauce*

Nutmeg, salt and fresh ground white pepper to season

In a hot saucepan heat the oil and cook the onion and garlic over medium heat. Toss chopped spinach in and mix well. Sautee lightly. Add béchamel sauce. Mix. Season with nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Optional additions: Mozzarella, Swiss cheese and pine nuts.

*Quick bechamel: In a medium saucepan, heat 5 tablespoons of butter over medium-low heat until melted. Add 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour and stir until smooth. Over medium heat, cook until the mixture turns a light, golden sandy color, about 6 to 7 minutes. Heat 4 cups milk or light cream in a separate pan until just about to boil. Add the milk to the butter mixture 1 cup at a time, whisking continuously until very smooth. Bring to a boil. Cook 10 minutes, stirring constantly, then remove from heat. Season with 2 teaspoons of salt and 1⁄2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, and set aside until ready to use.

To assemble and make empanadas:

Preheat over at 400°. Grab a disc of dough and wet borders lightly with water. Spoon a rather abundant amount of filling (about 2 tablespoons) into the center of the disc. Fold dough over filling so that sides meet. With your fingers, press a pattern to seal the edges together. (You can also use a fork to form edge and seal tightly.)

Place empanadas on a baking sheet and bake for 12 minutes or until aromatic and golden.

DIPPING SAUCE: MY DAD’S ‘CHIMICHURRI’

This recipe allows you to adjust the ingredients according to your preference and palate. To get best results, prepare a day ahead.
7 garlic cloves, minced
5 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped
8 ounces canola oil or olive oil
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Crushed red pepper, as desired
1 teaspoon oregano
Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

Combine garlic and parsley. Add oil, vinegar, red pepper, salt and pepper. Mix well. Serve or refrigerate for later use.