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Modern but elegant. Entrées include filet mignon, free-range chicken and soft-shell crab. The side dishes — four-cheese creamed spinach, pad thai and tangerine baby carrots with pistachios — are more daring. The Ocean Bistro is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

ATMOSPHERE

Chichi but casual. The Ocean Bistro overlooks the pool at the Four Seasons Resort, making for an odd juxtaposition of white tablecloths and diners in shorts. There’s a view of the ocean.

OUR FAVORITE FOOD/PRICE

The six-hour braised short rib with guava glaze ($24) was so tender I barely needed a knife to cut it. My wife ordered the Palm Beach Restaurant Month three-course special ($35), which included a jumbo asparagus appetizer, a snapper entrée and crème brulée for dessert — all excellent (although that price promotion was available only in June). The only modest disappointment was the after-dinner coffee ($5.75), which was lukewarm.

REASON TO GO

The Ocean Bistro pulls off a dining trifecta: nearly perfect fare, the Four Seasons’ vaunted service and a laid-back atmosphere with an ocean view.

SERVICE

Fast and friendly. Our server showed up at all the right times without being overbearing.

NOISE LEVEL

There was live music across the pool for a private party, but aside from that, the patio was subdued during our visit on a Friday night in June.

KID FRIENDLY

The relaxed vibe makes this a welcoming spot for diners with children.

The Ocean Bistro

Four Seasons Resort, 2800 S. Ocean Blvd., Palm Beach, (561) 582-2800

Hours: 7 a.m.-9 p.m. daily.

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They’ll tell you about that item and why they liked it in this spot each week.