The great feature about pumpkins and squash is their versatility, which can make them critical ingredients in everything from soup to entrees. (AP)

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The leaves remain unchanged in color. The temperatures dip only ever so slightly. In South Florida, it takes a little imagination to summon the feel of autumn.

But once you do, you quickly realize there is simply no autumn without the aroma of baked pumpkin treats or the parade of fall colors upon the plate.

Imagining autumn is not so difficult when one has a kitchen and a bounty of seasonal vegetables and fruits. Besides, somehow our bodies seem to know when it’s fall — they begin to crave more earthy foods, more robust than summer’s lighter fare.

I know this because I’ve been craving a good pumpkin soup since my calendar signaled the start of fall.

Although pumpkin soup is neither heavy nor overly caloric, the very thought of it gently warms my soul. Of course, if one waits for South Florida’s temperatures to catch up with our autumnal cravings, the season will run out.

So let us pretend it’s truly fall outside and let’s get our internal “chi” going with a trip to the market for seasonal ingredients. Let’s go pumpkin shopping.

The fabulous thing about pumpkins and squash is their versatility. Their meaty, earthy, yet adaptable flavors and textures make them an ideal element for culinary improvisation.

My own pumpkin fancy begins with a light sauté of yellow onions in extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of fresh herbs, like thyme, sage and/or rosemary.

I then add the pumpkin — peeled, seeds removed and cubed — and a chopped yellow pepper, add some vegetable stock, white wine or simply water, and cook it till tender.

From there, it’s all about the muse. If I’m in the mood for sweet, I’ll add some peeled and cubed apples or pears, and blend it all with a little milk until smooth.

My favorite kick, however, is a spicier one: a touch of fresh grated ginger and sweet potato, blended, sprinkled with toasted pumpkin seeds and served with a nice wedge of warm or toasted bread.

Fernanda Beccaglia is a chef and journalist who writes a culinary column for La Palma.

Pumpkin Soup with Sweet Potatoes, Herbs and Pears
(serves 4)

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 large yellow onions, thinly sliced
A sprig each of thyme, sage and rosemary, stems removed and minced (can use any or all of these herbs)
1 yellow pepper, seeds removed and chopped
2 cups pumpkin, seeds removed and cubed
1⁄2 cup white cooking wine or broth
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1⁄2 teaspoon powdered cumin (optional)
1⁄4 teaspoon powdered red pepper
1 Bosc pear, peeled, seeds removed and cubed
1 cup sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed
3 cups milk
1⁄4 cup maple honey or syrup
Kosher salt and black pepper to taste
4 large wedges of toasted bread

In a soup pot, sauté 2⁄3 of the onion with a pinch of the fresh herbs and yellow pepper in 2 tablespoons of the olive oil for 5 minutes or until slightly tender. Add the pumpkin and sauté over medium heat.

Add the wine or broth. Sprinkle in the remaining herbs and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 10 minutes or until tender. Add the pear and the sweet potato, and stir. Cook for 5 minutes.

Place cooked ingredients in blender, and add the milk. Blend until velvety smooth.

Return the soup to the pot and simmer for a couple more minutes over low heat, stirring to keep the soup nicely blended.

In a skillet, sauté the remaining onion and oil over medium heat for 5 minutes, until translucent. Reduce to a simmer and add the maple honey or syrup. Cook for 10 minutes. Ladle the soup into individual bowls and drizzle with the maple sauce. Serve with bread wedges.