The Palm Beach Post
By (Sweet) Libby Volgyes   |  Local Wine Events  |  November 20, 2009

If it seems as if we tend to frequent the same tastings, you’re right. It’s hard to resist a tasting that advertises the best of the best or pouring more than 45 wines. But I think there’s a whole lot of greatness going on at smaller tastings. There’s less pressure to taste everything, there are fewer people to fight for the wine and you can actually talk (and learn) from the person holding the bottle behind the table.

Last Friday night, I had the pleasure to attend a New Zealand wine tasting at Café Boulud. Dry and I are huge fans of Café Boulud in general, so when I saw via Twitter a wine tasting (and munchies!) I immediately jumped and paid for it online. It cost $20 in advance. I was planning on bringing someone, but the event sold out before I could convince my noncommittal friends.

New Zealand is known for its incredible Sauvignon Blancs. They’re masterfully done and carry a heavy tropical presence. The Marlborough region in particular is known for great Sauvignon Blancs.

I had tried the first S.B. before, a Whitehaven, and had really enjoyed it the first time, so I skipped that and went on to a 2008 The Crossings Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region ($12.99 at Total Wine). I’ve read somewhere the overwhelming smell and aroma of Sauvignon Blancs from Marlborough is green: lime, apple, kiwi, melons, herbs, grass, zest, minerals…you name it.

It smelled herbal, savory and a bit of lime. The overall aroma smelled of green. On the palate, it is bracingly crispy and refreshing. Robert Parker rated the 2007 89 points, as well as including it in his “Parker’s Wine Bargains” book.

Throughout the night, waitresses brought around exquisitely prepared hors d’oeuvres, which did not disappoint. Their food is awesome.

From there, I tried the 2008 Villa Maria Private Bin Riesling (available for $13.79 at Total Wine). It had a light aroma of apricots and stone fruits, a little bit of citrus and petrol, as the pourer pointed out. It had a nice off-dry crispness and a lovely texture. It had a great mouth feel, clean and crisp. I noted “it’s strutting around in Sauvignon Blanc shoes,” which I take to mean the Riesling had some crisp, clean undertones. It was nice, but I have a very high standard for Rieslings and it didn’t blow me away. It ranked 91 points from Wine Spectator, which also adds an aroma of elder blossoms. Okay, sure.

Finally, it was time for the Pinots. I asked him to pick me the best of the best and he poured me a 2008 Spy Valley Pinot Noir. It smelled of cherry, earthy and spice, overall like a typical pinot. But this was a very well-executed, easy drinking Pinot. It was silky smooth on the palate with a lively spice and a spritzy feel. My notes, which I will be the first to admit tend to be a bit silly, say: “bit of a party in the mouth…enters like silk, leaves dressed in glitter.” Which pretty much sums up this Pinot.

Finally, it’s time to talk about the wine that has nearly driven me nuts. It’s the 2008 The Patriach made by Babich and comes from Hawke’s Bay, on of the best regions in New Zealand. And oh my dear lord, this wine is amazing. It’s a Bordeaux-style blend made mostly with Merlot, It had a very, very pleasant and nice aroma of cherries and strawberry jam. I really enjoyed it in my glass but I couldn’t help but think about how awesome this wine would be in a few more years. It tasted young and taut to me, but had amazing promise. And I was sure if it had been decanted properly it would have been even better.

But here’s why it drove me nuts. I want to buy it and keep it for a few years. But I couldn’t find it anywhere. I tried Total Wine and visited Chill. Pete the Wine Geek is doing his best to see what he can find for me, but I’m discouraged and don’t have great hope. It would have been a perfect night if I’d left with the bottle in my hot little hands.

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What I drink: Old world reds, medium-bodied, dry, earthy. I've been into Spanish Riojas lately, but I recently tried a great Burgundy at a wine tasting in Lake Worth...


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