My father died eight years, one week and one day ago when his plane crashed into a vineyard in Southern Hungary.
When I went to Hungary for his funeral, my stepmother took me to the site of the crash. Because of differences in national airline investigations, we could walk around the area freely.
I remember how the ground had opened up to welcome the plane. I remember the gravelly soil, which now I know makes for a good vineyard, a wine that struggles and has depth and character, much like me, today. I remember the gaping indentation, the hole where the nose of the plane impacted with the ground; the burned, scarred outline of the wing, like a body outline in chalk but burned away, marking: a plane died here.
I picked up pieces of bent metal, felt the charred ground. It was quiet – so quiet and still, and in a strange way peaceful. In the surrounding area, I could see the vineyards though I don’t remember any grapes, just the rows. Nearby, a century-old stone well stood impassively, it had already seen everything. I dropped a forint down, waited for the sound of it hitting the water, having nothing to wish for.
It was a sad day, a sad year.But this year, I wanted it to be different. I wanted a joyful memorial. I wanted to commemorate my father by celebrating what he valued most: great food, unbelievable wine and wonderful friends.
I invited the smallest group of my very closest friends over for a four-course Hungarian feast and since I’m now a Swirl Girl, corresponding wine. The menu was simple: a salad with walnuts, pomegranates and bleu cheese (okay, there’s nothing Hungarian about this but it sounded better than the cucumber salad with sour cream that I remember); a cold cherry soup, Chicken Paprika with Galushka dumplings and Palascinta or crepes for dessert.
But the wine – how I struggled! I wanted it to be perfect. I wanted the whole evening to be perfect and I felt such pressure to match correctly and to find wines my dad would like.
Dry-Gwen made the salad and brought along a Domaine Rene Mure Riesling that she used in the dressing and we finished up with the salad. The salad was truly show-stopping and the light, off-dry Riesling was a perfectly crisp start to the day.
When the Swirl Girls had their five-course summer sippin’ white wine dinner, I amusedly mocked Dry’s obsession with proper pairings. I didn’t see the pairings as that big a deal and was amused by how worried she was. Then we had an oft- paired course and I finally understood how important pairings really are. Now it was my turn to obsess over what wine to serve with the cold sour cherry soup. I tweeted it, asked wine merchants, researched and obsessed. I went back and forth between a Riesling, a Rose and a Gewurtz. Finally, I settled on the Rose because I included a cup of Pinot Noir in the soup. And the Rose, the 2008 La Scolca Rosa Chiara ($14) was perfect. The soup has cinnamon, sour cream, sour cherries and a bit of sugar and for whatever reason, the off-dry, crisp, light and subtle Rose acted like it was fated to marry that soup.

I know many felt I should have served a Riesling with the Chicken Paprika. But for this course, I desperately wanted a wine I knew my father would like, which meant French, specifically Bordeaux. And since the Paprika added flavor but not heat, I easily got by with red blends. We first opened up a 2007 Ferraton Pere et Fils Cotes du Rhone Plan de Dieu ($15.75) that I ordered from Zsazsa and Company, a great wine supplier. I am not a huge fan of Rhones in general. I find them too spicy and overpowering for me, but this was a great duo. The food added complexity and a sense of purpose to the wine. The wine had the characteristic spice and a strong presence in the mouth but also had a rounder edge and a balanced finish. And then for good measure we opened up a Mouton-Cadet Bordeaux my friends had brought, which was a great choice as well. These were two wines my dad would have loved.
After sitting and digesting and getting into a great discussion on religion and politics for a good while, I brought out the “palascinta” or crepes and some nutella, bananas and my father’s favorite, apricot jam as filling. And with great ceremony, I took out the 2000 Tokay Aszu. It the most expensive bottle of wine I’ve ever bought ($49.99) but I felt strongly we needed to try it. Tokay is Hungary’s finest wine and was lauded by Louis XIV as the “Wine of Kings, the King of Wines.” It’s similar to a Sauturnes but is richer, smoother, more incredible than any sweet wine I’ve ever tried.
It had an insanely long finish and was a beautiful golden color. It covered the whole palate with a luxurious opulence. I understand the price tag and the reverence this wine evokes.
Tasting Tokay is like drinking spun gold.
The evening was everything I dreamed of. Delicious food, great wine and wonderful conversations with great friends. Nearby, I had put out a picture of my dad and I carefully poured him a glass of the Rhône and felt comforted to know that he was there with us and insanely proud of me.








Very touching story that hits home with me. My mom passed away recently. Any remembrence that brings a smile to our face and also warms our hearts to our lost loved ones is wonderful. seeya marty