It’s a peculiar problem to have, not being able to use most of your desk because a box of six merlots is sitting right where you like to pile your papers. So I divvied them up, held my breath, and hoped for good things to report back.

The poor merlot. Ever since they skewered it so famously in Sideways (“I am not drinking Merlot!” screams the main character) its had to defend its image. Much aligned merlot, yet one of the noble grapes in Bordeaux, a close kin to Cab and a rightful beauty on it’s own. It’s time to move forward, Merlot! We love you just the way you are!

All of the merlots were received free as samples to review.

2007 Clos Du Bois Merlot: A jammy, food-friendly wine (Reviewed by Bold)

The 2007 Clos Du Bois Merlot is 91 percent merlot, 4 percent cabernet sauvignon, 3 percent malbec and 2 percent shiraz. It’s a North Coast wine from California, with grapes from Sonoma, Napa and Lake counties. This bottle was sent to the Swirl Girls for review.

On first opening, the merlot had a light cherry nose that didn’t bowl me over. The first taste was mouth-puckering, so we let it open for about 40 minutes. Then it was much better: slightly jammy with a little spice and even a bit of earthiness. It turned a little sweeter (plums, currants) when combined with food (we had lamb chops) and really opened up nicely.

It’s a heavier wine than I was expecting, especially after that light nose, and that was just fine with me. I’d drink this again after letting it open for a good hour first, and would always drink it with a meal.

We drank the remainder of the bottle on the second night, and the overnight opening had a positive effect on the merlot – it was full and juicier than the first night. The finish was long and smooth.

The Clos Du Bois Merlot retails for between $10-$15. At that price, it’s a good buy, so keep an eye out for it.

2007 Blackstone Merlot (Reviewed by Earthy)

The Blackstone Merlot ($12) had a strong fruit aroma of black cherry and blackberry, with a nuance of vanilla and oak. My first big inhalation sent the alcohol right to the back of my throat and I coughed in reaction.

Despite the bold aroma, the fruit isn’t noticeable on the palate. In fact, the wine is overwhelmingly dry and the tannins seem a bit harsh, leading to a lack of balance.

Although the label says “elegant creaminess,” I didn’t recognize that. It has a long finish but it’s the stringent alcohol that lingered at the back of my tongue.

What I most wanted to do after tasting this wine was to drink water, anything besides more wine, to rid my palate of it. I also reached for a piece of sharp cheddar to help.

Never one to hastily dismiss a wine, I opted to give it just one more chance. It can thank the cheddar. The sharpness of the cheese brought some fruit out of the wine, and with it a little gentility back to the palate.

However, I probably still wouldn’t choose to drink this wine again.

2007 Estancia Merlot: Paso scores! (By Sweet)

By the time I got around to choosing a merlot, there were only a couple left – and they were definitely the cheaper wines. But when I realized the 2007 Estancia Merlot was still waiting to be consumed, I felt gleeful – and sneaky. I knew the Estancia hails from Paso Robles and I knew I was in good hands.

Paso Robles is producing remarkable wines that deliver a lot of quality for a fairly comparably low price. I’m a pretty big fan of this area and have consistently been impressed with their wines. So even though my Paso Estancia only cost $11.99, I had a good suspicion it would be a better wine than the $20 Napa merlots.

I can’t compare directly, but I can say that I have no complaints at all about my little Estancia. No, it’s not an “it’s a special night, let’s crack open Estancia!” sort of wine. Rather, it’s a pleasant, easy-drinking, comfortable wine for a very, very comfortable price. I would be happy consuming this for a weeknight dinner. And I’d recommend it to you for that reason too.

It’s a dark, rich raspberry color and has a beautiful smell of raspberries, blackberries, cherries and plumbs. In the mouth, it’s light, feminine and seductive. It’s very soft and gentle on the front with firmer tannins that you’d expect from a merlot. Not strong, but present. It’s a bit unbalanced at the end but time mellowed it out and softened it up. I would describe this wine as gentle and flirtatious. And as I wrote in my notes: delicious!

Love merlots? Then check back next week for Part II!