A young Bulmaro Montes leaves Mexico at the age of 17, his dreams of college dashed by a strike at the university in Mexico City. He makes the long journey to join his father and two older brothers in Napa and starts the much longer journey through the vineyards and wineries to where he stands today:

Montes is owner, wine grower, nurturer of a very small production of world-class cabernet.

But this is also the story of a family, of a young woman who stopped her father from throwing out three barrels of incredible wine (“Wait! This is good!”).

That young woman was Montes’ daughter, and when she said this to him, he gave in. “Okay,” he told her, “but it’s your responsibility.”

When Bulmaro Montes came to California in May 1966, with a green card and dashed university dreams, he found his father and brothers working the famed “Rutherford dirt” vineyards, where rows upon never-ending rows of physical labor greeted him.

“It was very strange for me. I didn’t feel comfortable because I never had to work. It was really hard – working with the shovels and the field. It was very hard work.”

He worked ten hours a day, every day, for $1.25 an hour. At home with his father and brothers, the dreams grew as their calluses deepened.

“My father was always dreaming. First, to have our own house. And then, to have our own vineyards. And maybe one day, our own wine,” Bulmaro says.

Then in 1973, Bulmaro started working with Joseph Phelps Vineyards (JPV) as Vineyard Manager. His hard work translated to every arena he tackled at JPV and eventually he was promoted to Vice President of Operations. He was behind JPV’s famed Insignia, Backus and their cab.

The difficult physical labor lessened.

“It was harder mentally than physically,” he said. His brother, Manuel, joined JPV in 1982. Manuel carved out his own niche in Napa Valley as a water-witcher. He had studied mechanical engineering at the University of Mexico. At JPV, he gained success in planting and pruning.

In 2001, Bulmaro bought his land and in 2003 both brothers retired from JPV. For Bulmaro, who was used to running more than 750 acres at JPV, he now had 2.6 acres to attend to.

The Montes’ Marita’s Vineyard had its first crop in 2004 and with it they made three barrels of wine. But after getting used to the rich, complex, big Insignia-esque wines, Bulmaro’s palate didn’t like his first wine. At all.

“I was expecting heavier wines. My eldest daughter (Sophia) said ‘Father, are you crazy? I like it!’” Bulmaro says.

She vetted it out with her other wine-loving friends — they all loved it. So she suggested they make another label to which Bulmaro said:

“Okay, but it’s your job!” The wine was bottled but never released though it can be tasted at the winery.

Marita’s Vineyard, which is named after Bulmaro’s youngest daughter, Mara, produces just two labels. The Marita’s label is a richer, denser, more concentrated wine than the Soma label. Soma stands for both Sophia and Mara and Sophia and Manuel (Bulmaro’s father).

“Soma has more feminine (character). It’s lighter, fruity and easy to understand,” Bulmaro says.

Back in the vineyard, the grapes grow and flourish under the careful eyes of Bulmaro and Manuel. They are the only hands that are allowed to touch the vines.

“We have 5000 vines, which helps keep us active, Bulmaro said. “We are old men, so we have to keep moving.”

In many ways, the Montes brothers have come full circle, once again spending their days out in the vineyards with their beloved grapes. But rather than working 10 hours every day, they average five to six while keeping just as busy with the rest of the operations. And rather than making $1.25 an hour, they sell Marita’s for $150 a bottle.

“It’s starting over again, but different. I don’t have a boss!” Bulmaro laughs.

FIVE QUESTIONS WITH BULMARO MONTES

1. What do you like to drink?

I like Backus, Araujo and Shafer Cabernets.

2. What wine are you enjoying right now?

Marita’s! It’s my palate, so I’m going to be drinking it. When you really like one (wine) it’s going to be hard to find another (you like as much). Maybe it’s a pride thing.

3. What do you like to eat with Marita’s?

Good steak. Marita’s likes a lot of French cheeses.

4. What would your last meal on earth be?

I’d start with Soma and an appetizer. Then a steak and Marita’s.”

5. Are your wines like your daughters?

They both have good palates. They drink like daddy!

THE SWIRL:

2006 Marita’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, $150

This is a deep, full, highly-concentrated wine filled with complex layers that draw you in deeper and deeper. It has a nose of plums, blackberries, very dark fruits, a touch of baking spice and a delicious layer of espresso. What blew me away was the finish: it stayed a full sixty seconds. It’s very well-integrated and heavy and responded well to a long decanting. This will likely cellar amazingly well – that is if you can keep your mitts off it long enough. Truly one of the more spectacular wines I’ve tried this year.

2006 Soma Cabernet Sauvignon, $86

Whereas the Marita’s was one of the most spectacular wines I’ve tasted this year, the best nose award goes to the Soma. It’s bright, ripe and very juicy, packed full of ripe fruits including raspberries, blueberries, cherries and a touch of orange. This wine is approachable and easy to drink right now, with tame tannins right out the starting gate. It’s still a delicious cab, it’s just less intense and more easy-going than Marita’s. For those who are just getting used to the heavier wines, this is the wine to bust open. It’s smell kept me sticking my nose back in the glass longer than was decent.

Marita’s Vineyard wines are available for purchase at www.MaritasVineyard.com. The wines were received as a sample.