The Palm Beach Post
By (Earthy) Jennifer Podis   |  Reds, Whites, Wine & food pairing  |  August 27, 2009

For Part 1 of the BBQ, click here

Now, on to those mushrooms I mentioned in Part 1! Once again, my indecision led me to two different mushroom dishes, instead of having to choose between them.

The first was Marsala-marinated portobello mushroom slices. This recipe produced another pairing conundrum in that the marinade had Marsala wine (a fortified wine from Sicily) blended with honey, soy sauce, olive oil and hot sauce. I wasn’t sure which ingredient to consider most, but had read wine used in cooking should take some precedence when choosing wine to serve.

With my go-to wine assistant Ryan Stanford at the Boynton Beach Total Wine store helping me, we decided upon another Sicilian wine for pairing and pulled a 2007 Cusumano Nero D’Avola ($12.99). This grape was new to me, and being the adventurous type, I was eager to give it a taste. (Cool fact: this bottle is stopped with a glass cork!)

The nero d’Avila, a grape variety also known as calabrese, was deep colored with a rich and juicy palate. It was medium-bodied with balanced tannins and acidity, with dark fruits flavors and a hint of pepper.nerodavola1

This was a wine we heartily enjoyed on its own, but paired with the Marsala mushroom dish… “A crowd pleaser,” declared Gwen. All heads nodded in agreement, because their mouths were too busy drinking and eating.

Everyone raved over the mushrooms, too, savoring the sweet, salty and peppery weave that exploded in our mouths. And neither the wine nor the food overtook the other. In fact, they made for well-behaved, gregarious play dates.

Last up from the grill, the simplest yet perhaps most satisfying course of evening: grilled portobello mushroom caps. This is the vegetarian’s competition for the grilled burger or steak. With just a brush of olive oil on both sides, a few minutes over the flame, and a sprinkle of salt, you’ve got a juicy, meaty mushroom ready for a bun or to be plated with grilled onions.

And no scoffing, you carnivores, until you’ve sunk your teeth into one!

We poured a 2006 Sobon Estate Cougar Hill Zinfandel ($16.99) to accompany this mushroom and… eureka! We hit vegetarian pairing perfection, if I do say.

This zin had a luscious body full of jam and a little pepper, with a long, lingering finish. Tiffini actually lingered over the aroma, saying that it was appealing like a favorite cologne.zin

Scott thought the wine was slightly smoky but then confessed he might be confused thanks to the grill 10 feet away or the four other glasses of wine we already drank.

It took just one bite of that warm, hearty ‘shroom and you would have thought it was a different type of mushroom with the chorus of guttural, sensual sounds emanating from the table.

The big berries and the juicy mushrooms were each excellent playing off each other with the richness of fruit and of earth.

Dining outdoors in the warm Florida evening, ripe for wine and grilling.

Dining outdoors in the warm Florida evening, ripe for wine and grilling.

And if all of that eating and drinking wasn’t enough, I couldn’t resist finishing off the meal with a wine granita; something I’d never had before and also so easy to make. Think of a slushy flavored with wine, instead of syrup.

This particular recipe called for riesling (I used Columbia Winery riesling from Washington), red seedless grapes and sugar. Toss them in the blender, pour the mixture into a shallow pan and freeze. Scrape the frozen mixture into an elegant glass (I used margarita glasses) and voila! An icy treat for big kids.

With bellies now full and hearts warmed by not only the pleasures of sumptious food and wine, but of engaging company, as well, we gave one last toast to an outstanding, experimental meal and to vegetarians everywhere.

RECIPES

Marsala-Marinated Portobello Grill

1/3 cup Marsala
1 tbsp honey
1 tbsp tamari or shoyu soy sauce
1 to 2 tsp olive oil
½ to 1 tsp hot sauce
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper or more to taste
6 oz Portobello mushrooms, sliced crosswise into ¼-inch thick strips

Combine the Marsala, honey, tamari, oil, hot sauce, and black pepper in a small nonreactive bowl. Mix well, then add the sliced portobellos. Marinate for 20 to 30 minutes, tossing every so often.
Preheat the grill to high. When the grill is hot, using a pair of tongs, lift the mushroom strips from marinade, shaking off any excess. Carefully place the strips on the gril (over indirect heat), one by one. Grill just long enough so they get a good, grill-marked sear, 3 to 5 minutes. Turn and grill the other side until heated through, 2 to 4 minutes. Serve at once.

Passionate Vegetarian, by Crescent Dragonwagon

Simple Grilled Portobellos

1 portobello mushroom — the largest you can find — per serving
Olive oil
Salt to taste

Preheat the grill to high, then lower the heat to medium.
Using a pastry brush, lightly coat both sides of the mushroom with oil.
Place the oiled mushroom on the grill over indirect heat, gill side down. Grill until softened and seared, 3 to 4 minutes. The mushroom should be tender and hot all the way through. Remove from grill, salt lightly, and serve.

Passionate Vegetarian, by Crescent Dragonwagon

Wine and Grape Granita

1 lb seedless red grapes
¾ cup riesling
¼ cup superfine sugar

Put ingredients in blender, process until smooth.
Pour mixture into a rectangular cake pan. Freeze at least 4 hours or overnight.
To serve, simply use a fork to scrape the granita into bowls or glasses.

One Response to “Midsummer night’s vegetarian BBQ, Part 2”

  1. E. Loewenstein says:

    YUM!

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JGwen (Dry)
What I drink: Old world reds, medium-bodied, dry, earthy. I've been into Spanish Riojas lately, but I recently tried a great Burgundy at a wine tasting in Lake Worth...


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What I drink: I've been a red wine lady (is that like a red hat lady?) for years, though dry white wines woo me well.

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What I drink: I prefer reds, although I can't deny the delight of a Riesling on a hot summer day.

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