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Posted: 12:00 a.m. Thursday, Oct. 4, 2012

5 reasons to visit Fuku on Clematis Street

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5 reasons to visit FUKU photo
092812 - (J. Gwendolynne Berry/The Palm Beach Post) — WEST PALM BEACH — Black cod miso with hearts of palm and shiitake mushroom and a sweet miso glaze. $27
5 reasons to visit FUKU photo
092812 - (J. Gwendolynne Berry/The Palm Beach Post) — WEST PALM BEACH — Fuku Executive Chef, Shawn Kaplan.
5 reasons to visit FUKU photo
092812 - (J. Gwendolynne Berry/The Palm Beach Post) — WEST PALM BEACH — Bar patrons are reflected in the glass of the large aquarium behind the upstairs bar as lit jellyfish swim by. Fuku, the new hopping place on Clematis, opened recently, not too long after the flurry of national attention over the local controversy its name generated.

By Liz Balmaseda

Palm Beach Post Staff Writer

We heard the fuss over Fuku, the name, before we ventured into the sensory-fest that is Fuku, the restaurant and lounge.

It took a while, though. As summer months dragged on Clematis Street, we wondered if the space behind the “opening soon” signs would indeed open soon.

Well, it did – and it’s all that and a Palm Beach roll. (That would be tempura shrimp, pineapple chile and caviar finessed into a tidy bite by sushi chef Josh Lyons. More on him later.)

How funky is Fuku, the place named after a Japanese term for “good fortune”? We can answer that question any of five ways. Here they are, the five reasons to visit Fuku:

1. The cocktails are sinful. Mixologist Josh Gates dreams up everything from a bright ginger beer to a cocktail he calls the Bubble Tokyo Tea, a vodka-rum-gin power punch hinting of honeydew, lime, lemongrass and triple sec and swimming with Midori pearls. Our favorite: the Emporer’s Tea ($11), a Belvedere-laced lemon tea sweetened with lemongrass simple syrup and topped with a St. Germain floater and honey foam. It’s clean, with a decadent kick.

2. The food is inspired. Executive chef Shawn Kaplan, formerly of Napa Valley, taps into multinational Asian flavors in a menu that’s as whimsical as it is sturdy. The black cod in a sweet miso glaze ($27) with hearts of palm and shiitake mushrooms is outstanding.

3. The sushi chef is a TV star. They call Josh Lyons, who competed in the most recent season of “Food Network Star” the “Rock & Roll Sushi Chef.” He not only looks the part, he can deliver a mean roll. Okay, they taste as Japanese as nova and cream cheese – in fact, his NYC roll is filled with smoked salmon, cream cheese, caviar, capers and onion. But they’re lip-smacking good.

4. There are jellyfish in the upstairs lounge. They float in a 500-gallon aquarium. They glow green against the darkened lounge. Downstairs, the narrow dining area also glows in LED-charged hues, all part of the $1.5 million that owner Paul Ardaji Jr. and investors put into renovating the former Vendome clothing store.

5. The deejay’s hot. Fuku’s resident deejay, Adam Lipson, is also a partner at the restaurant. The Clematis Street space is a familiar one to him – his family owned Vendome. Lipson also ran a surf and skate shop in the back of the store.

FUKU: 215 Clematis Street, West Palm Beach; (561) 659-3858; FukuRestaurant.com

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