THE SWIRL: 2006 Vall Llach Embruix, from the Priorat region in Spain

We ordered a bottle to accompany my birthday dinner at Tapas 210 in Lantana, and it was money well-spent. While it had a funky, musty aroma, on the palate it had cherry, dark berries, and a very earthy, dusty and smoky quality. Full-bodied with firm tannins. Just as we expected a Priorat to be.

PAIR IT WITH: Of the four tapas we ordered, this wine paired best with the Galician white bean stew (which had diced ham in it), lamb meatballs, and the artichokes and mushrooms in truffle oil. Each dish brought either fat or protein to the big tannins, and the wine complemented the earthy and savory components of the dishes.

PRICE: $58/bottle at Tapas Lantana, 210 E. Ocean Avenue, Lantana; (561) 533-5580.