Think of Thanksgiving, the feast: A brown and surely buttery turkey crowns a spread of sumptuous dishes – hearty stuffing, rich mashed potatoes, sweet and decadent yams, fatted-up greens and, perhaps, warm bread.

Cut to Thanksgiving, the aftermath: Carb overload has set in, and so has the realization that once again you gave in to the excess of tradition.

This is the holiday that crushes our best intentions as cooks and as eaters. It requires us to re-create it over and over, to pay homage to gilded starch after gilded starch. It hijacks our kitchen, Thanksgiving does. And we are powerless before its expectation of us, the nation’s otherwise enterprising home cooks.

As hard as it may be to give up Aunt Martha’s marshmallow-dotted sweet potato casserole this year, does it really need to be part of the spread again? That’s not to say we must let go of all the dishes we love to indulge in once a year. But we may enjoy our absolute favorites more fully if we edit down the plot points on our buffet table.

Think of it not as giving up our beloved dishes, but rather lavishing attention on the very best of them.

We did this on a recent night during a Thanksgiving practice run in The Post’s Tequesta test kitchen, otherwise known as Lenore Pinello’s In the Kitchen cook shop and cooking class space. Before an intimate group of diners, Pinello and her kitchen and catering partner, chef Joe Scarmuzzi, created a menu that was both splendid and streamlined.

They built the meal around fresh, local ingredients, a most appropriate starting point on Thanksgiving. They incorporated baby greens from Swank Farm in Loxahatchee and Seminole pumpkins from Kai Kai Farm in Indiantown, Florida-made goat cheese from the Peddler Market and homemade Italian sausage from Antonio’s Market (both in Juno Beach), and fresh roasted coffee from Oceana Coffee in Tequesta.

The result was an easy sequence of dishes that delighted but didn’t overwhelm.

Begin with a homemade ravioli filled with a puree of locally grown pumpkin and sprinkled with toasted pepitas (pumpkin seeds). Continue with a lightly dressed tangle of Swank Farm greens and roasted beets.

Then bring on the main course: turkey with Italian sausage stuffing, cranberry-orange red rice pilaf served in scooped-out and roasted Seminole pumpkins, and sautéed Brussels sprouts in an apple juice reduction.

End with a light and luscious hazelnut chocolate panna cotta with chestnut whipped cream and, on the side, a coffee-studded chocolate bark.

You’ll be counting the ways you love this meal – and you won’t even miss Aunt Martha’s casserole.

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THANKSGIVING SOLVED: THE CLASS

Chefs Lenore Pinello and Joe Scarmuzzi will re-create this feast at In the Kitchen on Thursday night from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. Class costs $75 per person. Attendees are welcome to bring their own wine.

In the Kitchen is at 389 Tequesta Drive (Gallery Square North), in Tequesta. To reserve a spot, call 561-747-7117 or visit www.inthekitchennow.com

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LOCAL RESOURCES:

Swank Farm: Farmer Jodi Swank sells her fresh hydroponic greens at the West Palm Beach GreenMarket at the downtown waterfront commons each Saturday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. For information, call 561-202-5648 or visit www.SwankSpecialtyProduce.com

Kai Kai Farm: Farmers Diane and Carl sell their fresh vegetables and green at the Palm Beach Gardens green market on Sundays from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. For more info, call 772-597-1717 or search “Kai Kai Farm and Grove” on Facebook.

Antonio Italian Deli and Market: 14137 US Highway 1, Juno Beach; 561-625-6544; www.AntoniosItalianDeli.com

The Peddler Produce Market: 12174 U.S. Highway 1, Juno Beach; 561-629-7701; search “Peddler Produce” on Facebook.

Oceana Coffee: 221 Old Dixie Highway, Suite 1, Tequesta; 561-401-2453; second location at Midtown plaza on PGA Boulevard, Palm Beach Gardens; www.OceanaCoffee.com

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THE MENU

• House-made pumpkin ravioli with local squash puree and pepitas

• Swank Farms greens, roasted beets, honey cider vinaigrette and local goat cheese

• Roasted tom turkey with traditional gravy, and antonio’s italian sausage stuffing

• Kai Kai Seminole pumpkins with cranberry orange rice pilaf

• Sautéed Brussels sprouts, with bacon and walnuts

• Hazelnut chocolate panna cotta, with chestnut whipped cream and chocolate-covered Oceana coffee bean bark

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PUMPKIN RAVIOLI WITH SQUASH PUREE

Makes about 38 ravioli

For the fresh pasta dough:

3 large eggs

2 cups flour, plus additional ½ cup reserved

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 pinch salt

Break three eggs into a bowl, making sure that no bits of egg shell are included. On a large, hard surface, mix flour and salt into a mound. Make a well in the flour and pour the eggs into it. Then pour in the olive oil. With a fork, carefully pull the flour from the walls into the center, gradually mixing the flour and egg. When the mixture is less sticky, knead the dough into a ball. Use more flour if necessary. Knead until well mixed and firm but not sticky and place the ball under a bowl, to rest.

When the dough has rested at least one half hour, divide the ball into 4 smaller balls. Roll each ball into a rough rectangle. Roll until sheet is flattened to the thickness of a lasagna noodle.

For the filling:

2 cups ricotta cheese

1 cup pumpkin puree, either canned or made of fresh roasted pumpkin flesh

1 egg, beaten

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly grated nutmeg

In a bowl, combine ingredients well.

To assemble the ravioli:

Cut the fresh pasta sheets into 4-inch squares. Spoon 1 tablespoon of the filling into the center of each square. Place another pasta square over each filled square and seal squares together with a crimper, or by pressing around the edges to insure a good seal.

For the roasted butternut squash puree:

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup diced onion

1/4 cup diced celery

1/4 cup diced carrot

1 cinnamon stick

Sea salt, preferably gray salt

Freshly ground black pepper

About 4 cups chicken stock or canned low-salt chicken broth

1 1/2 cups roasted squash

¼ cup half-and-half, optional

1/2 cup pepitas for garnish

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat until hot. Add the onion, celery, carrot, and cinnamon stick and sauté until soft but not brown, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Simmer for several minutes. Stir in the roasted squash and simmer gently to let the flavors meld, about 10 minutes. Discard the cinnamon stick. Puree with an immersion blender until smooth. Add the half-and-half, if using. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

To cook and serve ravioli:

Bring a pan of salted water to a gentle boil. Slip the ravioli into the water a few at a time, careful not to overcrowd the pan. Once they float to the top, allow them to gently cook for 1 minute and remove from water with slotted spoon. Sauce the ravioli with roasted squash puree and sprinkle with pepitas.

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MIXED GREENS WITH ROASTED BEETS & GOAT CHEESE

Makes 4 servings

½ cup Champagne vinegar

¼ cup minced shallots

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and ground black pepper

6 cups mixed greens

2 beets, roasted and sliced

¼ pound goat cheese, crumbled

Roast whole beets in 375 oven until tender, about 1 hour.

In a small bowl, combine Champagne vinegar, shallots, Dijon mustard and oil. Add salt and pepper to taste. Whisk together.

Place greens in a large bowl. Top with beets. Drizzle vinaigrette just before serving. Sprinkle with goat cheese.

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STUFFED MINI PUMPKINS

Makes 4 servings

Prepare 4 mini pumpkins:

Cut tops off pumpkins. Using a large spoon, or ice cream scoop, scoop out seeds and strings. Place pumpkins upside down on parchment-lined baking pan. Don’t forget to bake the tops.

Bake for 15 minutes. Remove tops and set them aside to cool. Carefully turn pumpkins upright and return to oven until flesh is tender when pierced with a fork, about 5 to 10 more minutes.

Make rice with dried cranberries and orange zest:

Makes 4 servings

1 cup red rice or wild rice

3 tablespoon olive oil, divided

2 cups water

1 orange, zested and juiced

1/2 cup dried cranberries

1/4 cup sliced green onions

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Rinse red rice in water. Heat 1 tablespoons oil in a pot, add rice and stir for 2 minutes. Add water and bring to a boil. Lower heat and cover pot. Cook for 45 minutes or until liquid is absorbed. Remove from heat and let rest for 10 minutes.

Heat large skillet or stir-fry pan. Add remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add cooked rice, mix in juice, zest cranberries and onions, salt and pepper. Adjust seasonings, if needed. Stuff rice into pumpkins, add “top hat” and serve.

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BRUSSELS SPROUTS

Serves 8 to 10

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter, divided

1/2 pound shallots, thinly sliced

Coarse kosher salt

2 tablespoons apple juice

4 teaspoons sugar

½ pound bacon, cut into lardoons (cubes) and cooked until crispy

1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup water

Melt 3 tablespoons butter in medium skillet over medium heat. Add shallots; sprinkle with coarse kosher salt and pepper. Sauté until soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Add apple juice and sugar. Stir until brown and glazed, about 3 minutes.

Cook Bacon, set aside. Halve Brussels sprouts lengthwise. Cut lengthwise into thin (1/8-inch) slices. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add sprouts; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sauté until brown at edges, 6 minutes. Add 1 cup water and 3 tablespoons butter. Sauté until most of water evaporates and sprouts are tender but still bright green, 3 minutes. Add shallots and bacon; season with salt and pepper.

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ROAST TOM TURKEY WITH SAGE BUTTER

Serves up to 8 to 12

1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

3 tablespoons chopped fresh sage

Salt and pepper, to season

1 16-pound turkey

3 cups white and pale green chopped leeks

8 large fresh sage sprigs

3 bay leaves, crumbled

2 1/2 cups low salt chicken broth

Fresh sage sprigs

Fresh parsley sprigs, to garnish (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix butter and sage in medium bowl. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

Pat turkey dry with paper towels. Season cavity with salt and pepper. Place leeks, 8 sage sprigs and bay leaves in cavity. Slide hand under skin of turkey breast to loosen skin. Spread 1/3 cup sage butter over breast meat under skin.

Place turkey on rack set in large roasting pan. Rub 2 tablespoons sage butter over outside of turkey. Set aside 1/3 cup butter for gravy; reserve remainder for basting.

Position rack in bottom third of oven. Pour 1/3 cup broth over turkey. Roast turkey until thermometer inserted into thickest part of inner thigh registers 180 degrees, basting every 30 minutes with 1/3 cup broth and occasionally brushing with sage butter, about 3 hours.

Transfer turkey to platter, tent with foil. Let stand 30 minutes. Remove rack from pan.

Gravy:

Pan Juices, defatted

4 cups turkey broth

2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons butter

Pour pan juices into large glass measuring cup or bowl. Spoon off fat; discard. Pour juices back into pan. Set pan over 2 burners set on high heat. Add 4 cups broth. Boil until liquid is reduced to 2 cups, scraping up browned bits, about 10 minutes. Whisk in flour and butter. Season with pepper.

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STUFFING WITH ITALIAN SAUSAGE, APPLES

Serves 8 to 12

One 1 1/2-pound loaf focaccia or ciabatta bread, crusts removed, bread cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 13 cups)

2 pounds Italian pork sausage, casings removed

2 large onions, chopped (about 4 generous cups)

2 cups chopped celery (about 5 stalks)

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter, divided

6 cups 1/2-inch cubes (about 28 ounces) peeled Granny Smith apples

2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage

2 1/2 cups low-salt chicken broth

Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350°F. Spread bread cubes in single layer on large rimmed baking sheet. Bake until pale golden, stirring occasionally, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer bread to very large bowl.

Sauté sausage in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat until cooked through, breaking up into small pieces with back of fork, 8 to 10 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer sausage to bowl with bread cubes.

Add onions and celery to drippings in skillet; sauté until golden brown, about 12 minutes. Transfer to bowl with bread-sausage mixture (do not clean skillet).

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in same skillet over medium-high heat. Add apples; sauté until tender, about 10 minutes. Add to bowl with bread mixture.

Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in same skillet over low heat. Add 2 tablespoons sage; stir 30 seconds. Add sage butter to bowl with bread-sausage mixture; toss to blend. Season stuffing with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350°F. Generously butter 15 x 10 x 2-inch glass baking dish. Add broth to stuffing and toss to mix. Transfer to prepared baking dish. Bake stuffing uncovered until top is golden and crisp in spots, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Let stand 10 to 15 minutes and serve.

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MILK CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT PANNA COTTA

Makes 6 servings

1 1/8 teaspoon powdered gelatin

2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

1 cup Nutella spread

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup whole milk

1/4 cup chopped, toasted hazelnuts, for serving (optional)

12 chestnuts, roasted and split in half

1/2 pint heavy whipping cream, whipped and unseasoned

In a medium bowl, whisk gelatin with 3 tablespoons cold water. Place chopped chocolate in another medium bowl. In a large bowl, combine Nutella and salt.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring cream to a boil. Pour half the cream over gelatin mixture and whisk gently to combine; stir in vanilla. Pour remaining cream over chopped chocolate; whisk until smooth. Combine two mixtures; whisk well.

Pour one-third of the gelatin-chocolate mixture over Nutella; beat using an electric mixer on low speed until a smooth paste forms. Pour in remaining mixture and milk; beat until fully combined.

Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into six ramekins. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and chill in refrigerator until set, about six hours or overnight. Serve with chestnuts and whipped cream.

Chocolate Coffee Bark

10 ounces dark chocolate chips

2 tablespoons Oceana Coffee beans, crushed

1 tablespoon raw sugar

Melt chocolate in microwave, 10 seconds at a time until just melted. Spread on sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Sprinkle with crushed coffee beans and sugar. Chill until hardened. Break off in shards to garnish panna cotta.