Blink and you’ll miss it as you drive along this North Palm Beach patch of U.S. 1. In fact, this bistro’s name, Entre Nous (between ourselves), might as well refer to its subtle placement in a sprawling plaza.

But it’s no secret affair. Four years after the eatery moved from its original Lake Park location, this modern American bistro is still bustling with regulars that fill its tables and bar area. This has been no small feat, to go from a 30-seat space to a 150-seat establishment and succeed. Success, however, can be measured here nightly, forkful by delectable forkful.

At the moment, I’m remembering the salty-delicious shavings of aged prosciutto di Parma served alongside wedges of ripe, juicy cantaloupe ($14). The simple classic was made perfect by the quality of the prosciutto and the lush, almost too-ripe flavor of the melon.

Speaking of classics, the shrimp cocktail ($9) did not disappoint with its fresh jumbo shrimp and kicky cognac horseradish sauce. We also enjoyed an ample serving of black truffle sacchetti ($10), slightly dense, petite beggar’s pouch pasta stuffed with four cheeses and tossed in a brown butter sauce with shreds of fried sage.

Add to this course the courtesy basket of focaccia squares and DIY dip (an herby Parmesan dust to which you add olive oil), and we were off to a tremendous start. We enjoyed these bites in a pleasantly appointed dining room that buzzed with a Friday night north county crowd.

It was a crowd that seemed to vie for the attention of our server as he attempted to work the dinner rush. At first, he seemed distracted, glancing at the other tables as we asked questions about the menu. But it became clear that he was multitasking, keeping an eye on his other tables. Still, eye contact takes but an instant.

If there’s one thing to be said about the rush, it’s the fact that our entrées were served quickly and efficiently. And what spectacular entrées they were:

• A moist, smoky grilled salmon ($25) that flaked nicely atop a large-grain couscous and sweet pea “risotto,” served with roasted red peppers and a pistachio pesto.

• A marbled, deeply flavorful Hereford porterhouse steak ($33) accompanied by perfectly salted bistro fries and tender, grilled zucchini – all made more delicious by a rosemary and roasted garlic chimichurri dipping sauce.

• A gorgeously grilled veal chop ($34) that proved to be the best dish of the night, thick yet buttery-tender and served with a mixed mushroom risotto in a truffle au jus.

How does one top that chop? That would be a tall order, but we did give it a try with a shared dessert – a rich, flourless chocolate cake ($8) served with a scoop of Kahlua ice cream. After a hefty meal, this is the kind of dense dessert you want to share with two or three others. It makes for a decadent finale to a meal defined by attention to detail.

The focus on quality seems to be the chef-owner’s signature work. On Monday, it will be exactly four years that chef Jason Laudenslager and front-of-house manager Candie Shreve opened at this North Palm location. As every night at Entre Nous, that would be fine night for a platter of prosciutto, a hearty chop or a luscious chocolate cake. But don’t tell anyone – that’s just between us.