Growing in the northern Basque region of France is a little red pepper waiting to jazz up any number of dishes you can dream up. If you are lucky enough to visit the region, you will likely find the brilliant hued peppers drying in shops.
And if you’re truly blessed to be in the area for the annual Espelette Pepper Festival, you’ll see them everywhere – and have an unforgettable trip.
The rest of us are left to scour our hometown markets in hopes of finding this exotic piment d’Espelette. While you can buy it online, you may have a hard time finding it locally.
Unless you step into Bistro Bistro.
I found the spice at the charming little French bakery in Northwood ($12.50 for a small jar) on a recent day. Conveniently enough, I also found the best pain chocolat I’ve had in town yet.
The bistro kitchen is the domain of Montreal native Carole Gallant, who owns the place with her husband Alain Ponze, of Lyon, France. In this quaint, neighborly spot, Carole bakes daily croissants and quiches, and makes from-scratch cassoulet, pate and beef Burgundy.
In one simmering pot, she combines flavors that ring of distant places. And one such flavor is the distinctive note of piment d’Espelette.
“It’s not like paprika,” says Carole. “It’s important that people understand that. It’s sweet and it’s hot. Use a little bit!”
I picked up a jar and brought it home. Heeding her words, I scrutinized recipes, and found an irresistible on in “Food and Wine” that called for only six ingredients (and one of them was salt).
It’s an appetizer dish of calamari with potatoes and piment d’Espelette, and it was a snap to bring together. I served it in beautiful earthenware bowls – to extend the bistro experience.
BISTRO BISTRO: 506 Northwood Road, West Palm Beach; 561-228-1081; open from Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
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Pair it with:
“Food and Wine” recommends serving the dish with Spanish Albariño from the Rias Baixas region. But I called one of my favorite beer guys, Jason Forrestall, bar manager of Tryst in Delray Beach, for a beer recommendation.
“I would definitely go with something in the wheat beer category, like a Blanche de Bruxelles or an Avery White Rascal — clean, soft, delicate, simple and easy,” he said. “It won’t take over the dish, won’t overpower any of the flavors that are going on.”
Calamari with Potatoes and Piment d’Espelette
Recipe by Pascal Rigo for “Food and Wine” magazine.
Makes 4 appetizer servings
1/2 pound fingerling potatoes, cut into 1/3-inch dice
Salt
6 ounces pancetta, sliced ¼-inch thick and cut into matchsticks
1 pound small cleaned calamari, bodies thinly sliced into rings
1-teaspoon piment d’Espelette
1/4 cup clam juice
In a saucepan, cover the diced potatoes with 1 inch of cold water and bring to a boil. Lightly salt the potatoes and cook them until tender, about 8 minutes; drain.
In a skillet, cook the pancetta over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until almost crisp (7 minutes). Add potatoes and cook, stirring until golden brown (about 5 minutes). Add calamari and cook until it turns milky white (1 to 2 minutes). Stir in the piment d’Espelette and clam juice and cook for 30 seconds. Season with salt and serve.
NOTE: Chorizo is a fine substitution for the pancetta in this dish. The dish is best when the potatoes are nice and crispy.
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