For being a newish place on the block, Callaro’s Steak House has a wonderfully lived-in feel. Yes, there are candles and white tablecloths, branded steak knives and wine glasses, 82-buck Chateaubriand steaks for the sharing, and a solidly restored space (formerly occupied by L’Anjou on Lake Avenue).

But there’s also the kind of non-pompous, sockless-loafers feel that draws you in on a Sunday night – or a weekday lunch or dinner – for decent rib-sticking fare and warm, attentive service.

Of course, this is not Callaro’s first rodeo. The steak house relocated last year from Manalapan, where it operated for 10 years. Owned by two Lake Worth families (Riggins Crabhouse owner Danny Callaro and his partners Beth Scragg and chef Keith Scragg), the place opened in a prime corner of downtown Lake Worth in January after extensive renovations.

The menu is well-varied with steaks, fresh seafood, chicken, chops, sandwiches, salads and abundant appetizers. Nothing fancy going on here – and this is not a bad thing. In fact, the best reason to come to Callaro’s is to feast on a 22-ounce, bone-in hunk of ribeye known as the Cowboy Steak ($34.99).

With a nice char on the outside, this is a tender, flavorful steak that’s served with a salad and a simple side dish of your choice.

For steak lovers who want far less steak, there’s a delicious steak and crab cake combo ($32.99) that offers respectable surf and turf portions. That steak, an 8-ounce New York strip, is ruggedly grill-marked and nicely seasoned. It arrives with a broiled, deceivingly small crab cake that’s chock-full of lump blue meat and very little filler. (A crab cake appetizer is $10.99.) A kicky and creamy horseradish-mustard sauce is served on the side for the crab cake.

Speaking of sauces, another delicious one is the house-made steak sauce, hinting of deep tamarind notes.

We sampled a blackened snapper ($34.99) from the daily-specials menu that proved to be fresh and sumptuously presented, but needlessly gilded. It sat upon a portobello mushroom bed in a pool of mustard sauce, crowned with two enormous, beautifully grilled shrimp. Too much.

The simple pleasures here, like the hefty appetizer serving of deep-fried calamari ($15.99) with two kinds of sauces (warm tomato and horseradish-spiked mustard), are best.

Then again, there is such a thing as too plain. The mashed potato sides are served unadorned and unapologetically lumpy. They do benefit greatly from Callaro’s homemade gravy – another yummy sauce.

Simplicity shone again in the coconut cake ($4.95) we sampled for dessert. In a good way. Light, airy and coconut-scented, it proved to be an appropriate final bite as it was refreshingly straightforward.

There are good reasons why Callaro’s, the restaurant concept, has stayed in business for more than a decade – it offers good, straightforward fare that’s graciously served. It’s a terrific addition to Lake Avenue.