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Posted: 12:00 a.m. Tuesday, Jan. 15, 2013

FLAVOR PROFILE

Dennis Max pays homage to So-Cal flavors in Boca



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Dennis Max pays homage to So-Cal flavors in Boca photo
Photo by Emiliano Brooks
The enchiladas rancheras with short rib, at The Mexican cantina and tequila bar in Boca Raton. (Photo by Emiliano Brooks)
Dennis Max pays homage to So-Cal flavors in Boca photo
Photo by Emiliano Brooks
Restaurateur Dennis Max and partners have opened The Mexican, a cantina and tequila bar serving Mexican street foods in Boca Raton’s Royal Palm Place. (Photo by Emiliano Brooks)
Dennis Max pays homage to So-Cal flavors in Boca photo
Photo by Emiliano Brooks
The pork belly arepa at The Mexican in Boca Raton. (Photo by Emiliano Brooks)

By Leslie Gray Streeter

Palm Beach Post Staff Writer

“Exceedingly Mexciting!” trumpets the web page of The Mexican By Max.

And an evening at the latest venture of local restaurateur Dennis Max, a spot nestled into Boca Raton’s Royal Palm Place, lived up to that slogan and to the fun implied by all that creative spelling.

The concept, “East L.A. meets east Boca,” pays tribute to Max’s Southern California roots, and it’s reflected in the eclectic environs. There’s a tortilla station framed by a 1970s VW bus, the patron vehicle of So-Cal wanderings. Nearby is a colorful wall mural by artist Ruben Ubiera encompassing Day of the Dead-esque skeletons, and a busty Bandita, leading me to believe that maybe trips to “The Mexican” are best left to the adults.

Once you sit down, the culinary field trip keeps on coming – start with the choose-your-own-hotness guacamole ($9) with soft tangy chunks of avocado, the snapper-filled Ceviche del la Casa ($12), and crispy, succulent Chile Relleno ($8). The Mexican Corn on the Cob ($4), smothered in lime juice and cheese, recalls a summer day, and the Pork Belly Arepas ($9) are tender and cheesy in a corn cake wrapping.

Also take a trip down the menu for the extensive taco selection, from pork to chicken carne asada ($11-14), enchiladas (we swooned over the del Tierra, with caramelized onions and roasted mushrooms for $12) and the main dishes like the Snapper Veracruzana ($23) and the slow-cooked Baby Back Ribs ($26).

Wash it all down with an impressive list of Mexican-accented libations like the Dirty Sanchez ($11), with jalapeño-infused tequila and blood orange puree, plus tequila, sangria, beer and Mexican Coca-Cola with real sugar sweetness that is a welcome sock in the head.

Mexciting, indeed.

The Mexican By Max: 133 S.E. Mizner Blvd., Boca Raton; 561-300-5280; www.TheMexicanByMax.com

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