The Pacific Roll ($9.75) is one of those rolls that isn’t supposed to work.

It’s filled with an enticing mix of albacore, cilantro, jalapeño and cucumber, wrapped with fresh avocado, served with smooth pureed mango on the side, then topped with a salsa of sautéed cashew nuts, red beet tempura bits, corn and tiny bits of red onion.

Think spicy Asian favorites meets fresh Southwest — and it works no matter how much you think it shouldn’t.

RA’s assistant manager in Palm Beach Gardens, Paul McNeice, who worked his way up from server, used to tell his guests that when he went out for sushi he probably wouldn’t have been drawn to the dish. But it’s a crowd-pleaser, he says.

“There’s no rhyme or reason why it works but it does,” McNeice says.

And work it does.

It’s a good roll for sushi novices, something ever-accessible RA knows a little about.

“We’re a great place for people who don’t know much about it and are learning,” says McNeice, “but at the same time, there’s a ton of stuff for people who are a little more adventurous or advanced.”

But be warned: although the Pacific is a pretty filling roll, it’s easy to devour the whole thing. Just saying.

RA Sushi: 11701 Lake Victoria Gardens Avenue (Downtown at the Gardens), Palm Beach Gardens; 61-340-2112; www.RASushi.com; open Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to midnight.