The suburban plaza is aglow. Diners, shoppers, loungers, all are giving purpose to the commercial sprawl. It’s a plaza that might be indistinguishable from the next if not the fact that there’s a big, handsome Fresh Market at its center and two stylish, non-chain eateries.

The one we’re visiting tonight is Oli’s Fashion Cuisine, a 2-year-old restaurant serving modern American and Mediterranean fare. The tables on the outdoor terrace are filled, despite the night’s snappy breezes. A large party buzzes in the back room. And the main dining room is reaching its capacity as well.

All this on a week night, in Wellington.

It’s equestrian season, which gives the western communities that added layer of bustle. But still, it’s a promising sight: an independently owned spot deep in the suburbs, drawing in a crowd.

Oli’s is the creation of Wellington-based restaurateurs who met while working in Palm Beach restaurants, and it’s as much a brand as it is a restaurant. The principals, executive chef Dustin Parfitt and president Juan Gando, have now opened a trio of “Fashion Cuisine” restaurants – Oli’s, The Grille and, within recent days in the same plaza as Oli’s, The Seahorse.

This “Fashion Cuisine” idea is rooted in a food-as-fashion theme, where beautiful food inspires the setting and mood. It’s all vaguely described on the website.

But don’t let that keep you away. (It didn’t keep Bill Clinton away earlier this year – and he knows his comfort grub.) Sure, dishes are beautiful to look at and well presented, but the food is not precious or pretentious. They do serve flatbreads here.

In fact, once you get past the gauzy fashion concept, you’ve got a pretty terrific neighborhood hangout, a place named after city pioneer Charles Oliver Wellington, a place with excellent service and a welcoming ambiance.

And it serves delicious food. Flatbreads, included. On this night, the special flatbread ($16) is topped with roasted short rib, caramelized onion, melting cheeses and fresh, cool arugula. Served on a large wooden board, it’s big enough to share among four as a starter.

We follow this bite with a bowl of Oli’s beer-cheese soup ($5), a creamy but not too rich cheddar soup topped with bacon, chives and shredded cheddar. It’s a tasty rendition, although I prefer a thicker and, well, cheesier cheese soup.

At the suggestion of our efficient server, we order a couple of house favorites for entrees. The panko snapper ($25) proves to be a hit, a delicate fillet lightly breaded in panko crumbs, pan-fried and served with a Yukon potato mash, grilled zucchini, a light and lemony sauce, a tangle of gently dressed greens on top and a side of habanero tartar sauce. It may sound like overload, but it works on every important level.

The second suggestion doesn’t work quite as well. The Chicken Marsala ($22) is flavorful, with earthy wild mushrooms and that delicious (and ubiquitous) Yukon mash, but the chicken scaloppini is slightly dry. The woodsy sauce, however, is spot on.

At dessert, we’re swept off our feet – and left in a food coma – with a bite of the warm banana bread pudding ($10), a big slab of decadent dessert topped with vanilla gelato. That it’s huge is relative – you can always share it or bag it for later.

We also sample the zeppole (fresh-made doughnuts, $10), served with chocolate and creme anglaise dipping sauces. But after that delicious bread pudding, fried dough balls exist in the shadows of our experience.

Whatever you order here, know that you’ll consume it in style, as Oli’s dining room quite nicely lives up to its brand name. More than that, you can expect warm, friendly service.