MENU

Soups, salads, fish, meat and chicken entrees, the all-important (and thrifty) early bird specials, weekend brunch including croque monsieur, and even a holiday menu with such delicacies as duck terrine mousse.

ATMOSPHERE

Intimate, and as French as you can get in this suburban neck of the woods. The restaurant is located in the crook of an L-shaped shopping center. Look for the fountain. If you squint, it might be France.

OUR FAVORITE FOOD/PRICE

The gratinee French onion soup (included in the early bird price of $18.95) was a light, perfectly seasoned broth covered with a generous portion of melted cheese. The textures melded perfectly. The escargots ($9.50) were tender, and we needed extra slices of French bread so as not to leave a drop of melted butter behind. The roll made of scallops and salmon, drizzled with lobster sauce, was delightful in both taste and presentation. The veal scallopini with mustard Dijon sauce and mushrooms ($20.50) was tempting and hearty. The chocolate cake was worth every calorie.

REASON TO GO

The chef here has got the right balance of classic French cookery with the added postmodern touches.

SERVICE

The waitperson was helpful and friendly. Her timing of courses was superb and unobtrusive.

NOISE LEVEL

This is a good place to take your sweetheart for a quiet, leisurely very French dinner, and several people did just that.

KID FRIENDLY

Only if your kids were raised in France.