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Posted: 12:00 a.m. Saturday, Jan. 19, 2013
SUNDAY SPECIAL: CHOWDER HEADS, JUPITER
Palm Beach Post Staff Writer
THE PLACE: Chowder Heads, an eatery that spun out of the green market popularity of its New England seafood and chowder offerings, is a pleasant, non-fancy spot with a diner vibe. In addition to a small dining room that’s viewed through the glass windows of the storefront at Jupiter’s Driftwood Plaza (the same plaza that houses The Bistro and Buonasera restaurants), there’s a row of outdoor tables, facing a lovely courtyard.
Last fall, proprietors Ed Wells and Harry Conheeny, native New Englanders, gave a brick-and-mortar home to their Connecticut-style lobster rolls and chowders, which gained a loyal following at green market and community events. And certainly their hard work at the markets has paid off as locals flock to this plaza eatery.
THE FOOD: Clearly, you must have chowder ($5 cup, $7 bowl). But don’t assume it must be the creamy white option. Sure, the New England-style chowder is quite good, rich and swimming with clams and potatoes. But the red Manhattan chowder is delicious as well, its broth flavorful and almost meaty. The pan-sautéed crab cake ($9 appetizer, $16 entrée with two sides) may not be the prettiest crab cake you’ve seen, but it’s packed with blue claw crab meat and served with a yummy, Old Bay-laced tartar sauce.
The lobster rolls ($18) are served either filled with chilled Maine lobster meat (knuckle, claw and tail meat) that’s tossed gently with Hellman’s mayo, or with lobster meat that’s been lightly sautéed in unsalted butter. Either way, it’s served on a toasted, buttered, split-top roll and a choice of side (we had the “Crab Fries,” crispy fries dusted with Old Bay seasoning). I opted for the warmed version of the lobster roll and found it abundantly filled. It was quite tasty, though I prefer the contrast between hot roll and fresh, chilled lobster. Next time, I’ll try the chilled version.
There’s plenty of fried fish and seafood here, from crispy haddock to coconut shrimp, as well. We sampled the fried clam strips ($14, with two sides), only to confirm that the chowder and lobster rolls are the eatery’s best bets.
The chowders and lobster bisque are available to go, packaged cold in pints and quarts that sell for prices ranging from $8 to $15.
THE SERVICE: Casual, friendly.
BEST REASON TO RETURN: For a bowl of hot chowder, be it New England or Manhattan-style
DEALS: There are five daily dinner specials at $9.99. Happy Hour happens every day from 4 to 6 p.m., with half-price appetizers, $2 domestic beers, $3 imported beers and 99-cent ladies’ wine.
THE BOTTOM LINE: Food and service, B
THE INFO: 2123 U.S. Highway 1, Jupiter; 561-203-2903; www.ChowderHeadsUSA.com; open every day from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
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