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Posted: 12:00 a.m. Saturday, June 16, 2012

My Getaway: Tulipan bakery



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Tulipan Bakery Cafe photo
Cynthia Roldan
Tulipan Bakery & Cafe in West Palm Beach.

By Barbara Marshall

Palm Beach Post Staff Writer

There’s no place to sit. The counter staff could be friendlier. But since moving into my neighborhood 22 years ago, I’ve been a member of the Cult of Tulipan - a Cabal of Coffee - that worships every morning at this Cuban bakery on Belvedere Road in West Palm Beach.

In Spanish so mangled the staff always replies in English, I order a cortadito sin azucar (half Cuban coffee, half steamed milk without sugar). If I can afford the carbs, I’ll indulge in a guayaba y queso pastelito (guava and cheese pastry), a luscious extravagance served warm from a special case, so the outer puff pastry layer remains flaky while the sweet-tart guava paste and cream cheese filling oozes unctuously over the fingers.

One of my sisters loves their exotic decadence so much she carries a box of them back to Iowa with her on the plane.

As for their croissants, I’ll stack Tulipan’s up against any I’ve had in Paris.

(Strangely though, I’ve never developed a taste for their cookies or cakes, which are too sweet for my taste buds.)

Sometimes, I opt for tostada which is a simple length of Cuban bread buttered and pressed flat in a plancha, or sandwich grill, making the perfect coffee dunking food. By lunchtime, the planchas are turning out savory Cuban sandwiches.

By 8 a.m. on most mornings, the line of Tulipan regulars reaches the door and sometimes beyond. The crowd can be as diverse as anything in the county.

There are middle-class commuters on their way downtown, delivery truck drivers with trucks left idling outside, Palm Beach matrons in tennis clothes, clued-in European tourists desperate for a decent cup of coffee, immigrants from the Caribbean and Central America as well as locals from the surrounding neighborhoods.

It’s why a trip to Tulipan gives me hope.

Or maybe it’s just optimism born of a caffeine buzz.

This may be a polarized nation, but Tulipan’s disparate devotees have managed to reach universal agreement on two things: the strategic importance of strong coffee and tender pastry.

Algo mas? (something more?), the counter ladies ask.

Yes, por favor. Can I get that cortadito with some political harmony?

Tulipan Bakery, 740 Belvedere Rd., West Palm Beach, (561)832-6107.

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