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Posted: 12:00 a.m. Tuesday, Oct. 2, 2012
SWIRL GIRLS
Palm Beach Post Staff Writer
Although the calendar might say “autumn” and some may be turning their attention to red wines with the turn of the season, here in Florida that calendar might as well still say “summer.” And that’s okay, because the Swirl Girls have plenty of white varietals, as well as red, to taste. Here’s a wide variety of wines I’ve tried recently, all sent to the Swirl Girls for review.
The Biltmore Pas de Deux ($18.99 biltmore.com), from North Carolina, is made from muscat canelli grapes. It was very aromatic with peach and honey, and was in the off-dry to semi-sweet category. It tasted too sweet, as if not balanced well enough by acidity, but would please those who don’t typically like drier sparkling wines. At that winery price, though, I don’t think it’s a very good value.
2010 Callia Alta Torrontés, Valle de Tulum, San Juan, Argentina (from $7.99 online)
With a pale yellow color and crystal clarity in the glass, this torrontés has a fruity aroma with lemon and orange, as well as floral notes, with the appeal of orange blossom. It has bright acidity, consistent from the front of the mouth to the back, with a medium body of citrus flavors, although it’s not overly tart. As the wine warms a little in the glass, more tropical fruit notes come out. It’s a lovely sipper, with light fare or on its own.
2011 Matchbook Rosé of Tempranillo, Dunnigan Hills, California ($10 crewwinestore.com)
Matchbook, from the Crew Wine Company, has seven products, all focusing on varietals that perform well in the warm Dunnigan Hills climate. The rosé of tempranillo is a blend of 80 percent rosé of tempranillo, 12 percent rosé of syrah, and 8 percent rosé of malbec. The color was stunning, best described as burnt salmon. Although it had strawberry, raspberry and light cherry on the nose, it was still a subtle aroma.
The body carried more weight than the typical rosé, and the flavor profile was a little more complicated than your simple picnic sipper. I tasted some spice, red fruits and even cola on the finish. I found an intriguing balance of acidity and creaminess here. This is a no-brainer buy, as far as palate and price are concerned.
2009 Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($25.99 Total Wine)
In the glass the Ponzi showed a garnet-earth color and on the nose there was juicy cherry, raspberry, red licorice and pie spices. Most prominent on the palate was acidity up front and a lingering sour cherry taste on the finish. While it had a softer mouthfeel overall and was a pleasant wine, I didn’t think it was an impressive pinot noir to store in the memory bank, especially at that price.
2009 Jose Maria da Fonseca Domingos, Setubal Peninsula, Portugal (from $14.99 online)
This Portuguese gem is made of 59 percent touriga nacional and 41 percent syrah, and aged for 12 months in new oak. The color was rich – dark garnet – as was the aroma of raspberry, blackberry, vanilla and black licorice. Flavors of cherry, raspberry, red licorice and dark chocolate all came through in the firm body. It drank well now and should continue to do so for at least few more years.
2009 DOW Vale do Bomfim, Douro, Portugal (from $9.95 online)
Made from the Touriga Nacional grape, the Vale do Bomfim had a deep ruby color with a touch of purple; it’s almost opaque in the glass. It was highly aromatic with blackberry, black cherry, a pinch of pepper, licorice and cedar. Each time I swirled and sniffed, some new, enchanting aromatic revealed itself. The palate had blackberry and plum, with powerful tannins; however those tannins reign smooth, with a full-bodied and lush, lengthy finish
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