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Posted: 12:00 a.m. Thursday, Jan. 10, 2013
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Palm Beach Post Staff Writer
This particular corner of the Downtown at the Gardens dining and shopping plaza went from retro-glam white to sizzling red, when Red Tapas took over the space that once housed the 51 Supper Club.
The color scheme may serve as a metaphor for the energetic boost this new, sexy tapas spot has given the space and complex.
Fire pits flicker outside on the patio, where couples and attractive suburbanites sip their girls’ night cocktails. The deep red walls and under-lit red touches cast a sultry glow inside, where a younger set gathers and live music fills the soaring main dining room. (And, yes, it can get loud in there.)
Brought to the plaza by the same owners as the popular Cabo Flats Cantina, Red Tapas may borrow the small-plates concept from Spain, but it doesn’t make a theme of it. That live music, in fact, is often acoustic rock. On Thursdays, it’s Motown.
Yes, a variation of sangria is served, as is paella – and it’s quite delicious, but we’ll get back to that in a bit. The menu is solidly international, with dishes inspired by American, Mediterranean and Asian cuisines.
And while the restaurant and lounge is branded as something of a spicy club – an enormous painting of red lips hangs on the bar wall; the word “Red” on the menu appears to be scrawled in naughty red lipstick – there’s more to Tapas than sexy marketing.
There’s a good range of, well, tapas.
There are cold tapas like the brightly flavored gazpacho shooters ($4), creamy deviled eggs ($4), herbed olives ($6).
There are cheese and charcuterie boards (three items for $16, four for $20, and five for $24) laden with your choice of aged cheeses (Manchego, Asiago, smoked Gouda, among them) and cured meats (prosciutto, chorizo and spicy sausages). These boards are generously portioned and nicely presented with dipping honey, fruit and toasted baguette slices.
There are interesting salads, of which I loved the lemony seared chickpeas ($5) tossed with diced cucumber, tomato, onion, avocado and chorizo. The chorizo adds smoky depth to a refreshing, tangy toss of veggies and chickpeas.
A meal can be made of several shared hot tapas. The “Yin Yang” empanadas ($7) are served with a fruity dipping sauce. The tender, fried calamari ($8) are served with a lemony dipping sauce.
The seasoned filet mignon ($15) proved delicious, as did the teriyaki garlic steak ($10). But my favorite of the hot tapas is the lamb chops ($15), beautifully grilled, flavorful, delicate chops.
Rounding out the hot, non-Spanish tapas selections is the red duck and waffle ($18), perhaps the most unusual (and least successful) of the local fowl-and-waffle renditions I’ve tasted. The duck was served confit style atop a waffle. Draped atop it all were a couple of fried eggs. Two words: too much.
What did prove to be successful on both of my visits to Red Tapas was the paella. The Red Paella ($18 as a starter, $28 as an entrée), brimming with fresh shrimp, scallops, calamari, clams, mussels, and chorizo, is robust and well-seasoned. The rice is moist and lovely.
There’s a meat paella ($17, $27) as well, filled with chicken, roast pork, andouille sausage and chorizo. But if you eat seafood, go for the Red version.
On both of my visits I found it was a good idea to chat up the servers about the menu offerings. Not only were they gracious and efficient, they were knowledgeable on the menu.
The minds behind Red Tapas are aiming for a vigorously mainstream approach to the small-plates-and-cocktails trend, in a festive, inviting setting. And from the looks of it, it stands to be a winning concept at Downtown at the Gardens.
But Red is more than a good-looking, festive spot – it’s a good looking spot that serves delicious food.
REVIEW
Red Tapas Bar & Grille
FOOD: A-
SERVICE: B+
ADDRESS: Downtown at the Gardens complex, 11701 Lake Victoria Gardens, #3102, Palm Beach Gardens
TELEPHONE: (561) 333-7331
WEBSITE: www.RedTapasBar.com
PRICE RANGE: Moderate
HOURS: Open Monday through Wednesday from 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., Thursday through Saturday through 2:30 a.m., Sunday to 11 p.m.
CREDIT CARDS: Major credit cards
RESERVATIONS: Walk-ins welcome
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, including restrooms
WHAT THE GRADES MEAN:
A — Excellent
B — Good
C — Average
D — Poor
F — Don’t bother
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