THE PLACE: 50 Ocean, Delray Beach

The blue Atlantic glistens outside the sweeping windows at 50 Ocean. Perched atop Boston’s on the Beach, at a prime spot on South Ocean Boulevard, just south of Atlantic Avenue, this is the sport bar’s stylish sister. It’s sunlit dining room, alfresco terrace and Hemingway-themed lounge came to life as part of a $5 million renovation that transformed Boston’s former “upper deck” into this more refined 150-seat eatery, complete with a lighted saltwater aquarium that runs along the bar.

THE FOOD: Handsomely presented New American fare. We visited on a Sunday during brunch hours and found a splendid spread atop that aquarium counter: a wide-ranging Bloody Mary bar, organized by bottled sauces (I went for the spicy piri piri sauce), salts and rubs (celery salt for me), pickled veggies, horseradish, speared olives (loved the huge, blue cheese-stuffed variety) and juice (tomato, Clamato or Bloody Mary mix). Add your choice of fixings to an icy glass of Grey Goose ($9) and you’ve got one tasty cocktail.

We sipped our drinks with an appetizer order of Sunrise Shrimp ($16, lunch menu), crab meat-stuffed shrimp that are wrapped in maple-glazed bacon, drizzled with key lime mustard and a kind of barbecue sauce and served with a papaya slaw. The two large shrimp were meaty and delicious, though a little heavy on the sauce. Our lunch entrées, although woefully delayed, brought more succulent bites. A thick fillet of grilled mahi ($16) was marinated and beautifully seared in a balsamic reduction, served atop a grilled corn tabbouleh that had the warmth and consistency of a pilaf. Crowning the fish, a pineapple and strawberry salsa that held in place a long slice of crispy fried green plantain.

The more sumptuous dish was also the most delicious: a 2-pound whole Maine lobster ($50, at market price) that had been split, hulled, then re-filled with the sweet, tender meat and topped with toasty, herbed breadcrumbs. This was a lobster to savor and explore, leaving no morsel behind. A side of drawn butter and fresh lemon is all it needed (if anything at all). The side of coconut rice and grilled asparagus that comes with the dish? Undercooked and unnecessary.

THE SWEET FINALE: A banana tarte tatin ($8) to swoon over. Imagine banana slices molded into a brulee-like portion, caramelized until toasty (like crème brulee), then topped with rum sauce, a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a dusting of pistachios. It’s delicious and shareable between two, or even four.

BEST REASON TO RETURN: As nice as I found the brunch and lunch experience at 50 Ocean, I look forward to returning sometime near dusk to sip a civilized cocktail at the Hemingway bar and continue exploring the menu – and the view.

BOTTOM LINE: Food and service, B

THE INFO: 50 Ocean is at 50 South Ocean Blvd., Delray Beach; (561) 278-3364; 50Ocean.com; expensive; $8 valet parking with dining receipt; reservations suggested but walk-ins welcome.