THE PLACE: Somewhat off the beaten path, nestled in a professional zone, Indus is popular among the business lunch crowd seeking something zestier than a quick sub. Here they’ll find a diverse lunch buffet (weekdays, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.). Spacious and pleasant, the eatery is also well-visited for dinner and drinks.

THE FOOD: The menu offers a respectable array of Indo-Asian specialties, including substantial vegetarian dishes, tandoori oven-cooked classics, fragrant biryani rice dishes, curries, samosas and naan. You get a complimentary basket of naan crisps with three dipping sauces at the start, but order the one of the hot, freshly baked naan breads, such as the delicious garlic naan ($3). A good way to approach dinner for three or four: share it. Start with a few appetizers — vegetable samosas ($5), hearty pastries filled with potatoes and peas and a platter of veggie pakora ($5), vegetable fritters made with lentil flour. Share a platter of palak paneer ($15), a comforting homemade cheese that’s cooked in a spinach cream sauce. Then sample the meat dishes. We enjoyed the chicken Mughalai cashew korma ($15), a boneless chicken breast that’s cooked in a cashew sauce and finished with a touch of cream. We also loved elements of the tandoori mixed grill ($28), particularly the sheekh kebab ($19 if ordered as a separate platter), which is minced lamb that’s infused with ginger, onions, herbs and garlic. We were less thrilled with the vegetable biryani ($14), a large platter of basmati rice that’s cooked with spices and vegetables to an almost crispy finish.

THE SERVICE: Friendly and informative, but not speedy. Unless you’re having the lunch buffet, don’t expect to dine quickly here.

BEST REASON TO RETURN: To continue exploring the menu and its flavors.

THE BOTTOM LINE: Food B, service B-

THE INFO: Indus Indian & Herbal Cuisine, 1649 Forum Place (east of I-95, just off Palm Beach Lakes Boulevard), West Palm Beach; 561-249-0123; www.IndusDine.com; open Monday through Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; all-you-can-eat weekend Champagne brunch is $15.99 Saturday and Sunday through 3 p.m.; major credit cards accepted; reservations taken, but walk-ins welcome.