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Posted: 12:00 a.m. Saturday, July 21, 2012

SUNDAY SPECIAL: Los Catrachos, West Palm Beach



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SUNDAY SPECIAL: Los Catrachos, West Palm Beach photo
Waitress Linda Varela delivers lunch orders to customers at Los Catrachos, a Honduran cafe at 4645 Gun Club Road. (Allen Eyestone/The Palm Beach Post)
SUNDAY SPECIAL: Los Catrachos, West Palm Beach photo
Orden de Tacos at Los Catrachos, a Honduran cafe at 4645 Gun Club Road. (Allen Eyestone/The Palm Beach Post)
SUNDAY SPECIAL: Los Catrachos, West Palm Beach photo
Sopa de Res (beef soup) at Los Catrachos, a Honduran cafe at 4645 Gun Club Road. (Allen Eyestone/The Palm Beach Post)

By Liz Balmaseda

Palm Beach Post Staff Writer

THE FOOD: Authentic Central American soul food. This 10-year-old, Honduran-owned eatery serves an extensive menu of hearty and delicious home-style dishes. Most popular among its offerings are the various baleadas, which are fresh-made flour tortillas filled with a range of toppings, from red beans to scrambled eggs to chorizo to roasted beef. The street food offerings continue with Salvadoran pupusas, thick corn tortillas (also homemade) filled with cheese and meat. There are also plenty of meat, chicken and seafood dishes, generous soups and homemade aguas frescas (sweetened, fruit-infused waters).

THE AMBIANCE: If the place feels as welcoming as a family dining room in El Progreso, Honduras, that’s because the trio of siblings — Lina, Carlos and Moises Guerra — who own Los Catrachos hail from the northern Honduran municipality. This is a cozy place of functional wood-slat seating and mustard walls hung with Honduran carved-wood renderings of parrots and facades. Beneath the whir of ceiling fans, regulars dine amid a happy clutter of market finds.

GOOD BITES: The pupusas mixtas ($2.50) are delicious, warm and filled with white, melting cheese and crispy pork rinds. The baleada “con todo” (the works; $4) was a feast in a warm flour pocket – a fluffy, hand-patted tortilla spread with thickly pureed red beans and filled with lightly charred carne asada and scrambled egg. The smoky meat is the dominant flavor note here and it finds bright contrast in the homemade pickled chile condiment that’s served with just about everything. The plátano relleno ($5) is a ripe plantain that’s sliced lengthwise, baked in butter and white melting cheese and served with pureed red beans and the most decadent sour cream I’ve tasted since I lived in Central America many moons ago. I also loved the sopa de res (beef-rib soup; $8), a light but substantial broth swimming with beef rib chunks, carrots, potato, yuca and plantain, and served with white rice and hand-patted corn tortillas. While Los Catrachos serves beer, wine and coffees, my beverage of choice here is tamarind agua fresca ($4 large).

THE SERVICE: Friendly and efficient.

BEST REASON TO RETURN: To nosh on a pupusa and a sweet plantain filled with cheese and served with that so-insanely-creamy sour cream.

THE BOTTOM LINE: Food B+, service B

THE INFO: 4645 Gun Club Road, West Palm Beach; (561) 615-3090; open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

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