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Posted: 12:00 a.m. Saturday, Nov. 24, 2012

SUNDAY SPECIAL: MOJITO LATIN CUISINE & BAR

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SUNDAY SPECIAL: MOJITO LATIN CUISINE & BAR photo
A pulled pork empanada at Mojito restaurant in CityPlace is flavored stuffed with roasted poblano chiles and topped with diced tomatoes and goat cheese. Photo by Liz Balmaseda
SUNDAY SPECIAL: MOJITO LATIN CUISINE & BAR photo
A “Mojito Entrada” appetizer dish brings samplings of black bean purée, hummus and butternut squash, with crispy zataar pita chips, at Mojito CityPlace, West Palm Beach. Photo by Liz Balmaseda
SUNDAY SPECIAL: MOJITO LATIN CUISINE & BAR photo
A Spanish-inspired appetizer plate of Serrano ham and Manchego cheese is served with grilled bread, olives and roasted peppers at Mojito, CityPlace. Photo by Liz Balmaseda

By Liz Balmaseda

THE PLACE: This new, vibrant eatery has landed in the spot fleetingly occupied by Carlos ‘n Charlie’s, on the second floor of CityPlace. It spills forth onto the observation deck with a scattering of tables, usually appointed with some variation of the namesake beverage. Mojito has no fewer than 10 types of mojitos, from the original to those flavored with fruits (mango, berry, kiwi, watermelon, coconut, lychee, among them) to the high-octane Power Mojito that’s Red Bull-revved.

This is a place where salsa begets salsa, where the flavor notes in the pan-Latino eats flow into the house rhythms. It’s a party in there, on the plate as well as the dance floor. Opened just a few weeks ago, Mojito has been drawing revelers with its live music on Friday and Saturday nights. For those of us who prefer our tapas and cocktails without the clamor, there’s a decent range of starters and cocktails to enjoy as we watch the goings on at West Palm’s favorite piazza.

THE FOOD: The menu takes a generalized Latino approach, with culinary accents from Cuba, Mexico and South America, with some Spanish inspiration to round out the small plates selection.

Some hits include the pulled pork empanada ($6 for one), a crispy fried hand pie that’s juicy and flavorful inside and served with diced tomatoes and a sprinkling of goat cheese. The paella ($12) is delicious, despite its departure from the authentic. It’s made with long-grain rice, instead of the Valencia-style pearl rice. But it’s brimming with mussels, clams, fish chunks, shrimp and chorizo, fragrant with saffron and served piping hot. (If it’s wrong, I don’t want to be right.) We also enjoyed the grilled octopus appetizer ($8), served with salsa verde atop a white bean puree and a little olive tapenade on the side. The tacos are quite tasty – we sampled the pulled pork ($7.50) and the marinated shrimp ($9.50) and loved them both. And the simple plate of Serrano ham and Manchego cheese ($6) proved robust and ample, served with a good, salty tapenade and plump roasted red peppers.

Some misses: The Mojito Entrada sampler plate ($5) includes three lackluster dips (black bean, hummus and butternut squash). The duck buns ($8) didn’t rise to their potential – although the duck confit was delicious, the buns lacked that exquisite foaminess and the side of scallion-cucumber raita tasted more like tzatziki. The medjool dates ($5), flavored with blue cheese and bacon and served with almond yogurt lacked any definition of flavors.

A word about the small plates: they’re small. They’re best shared by two or consumed as individual starters. Larger parties may want to order more dishes or a couple of each.

SWEET FINALE: The churros ($5) are addictive. Serve fresh, hot, crisp and delicious, these are worthy of a chilly night splurge (and they’d be even better with a cup of hot chocolate).

THE SERVICE: Better than good. Servers were friendly, attentive and efficient. Mojito seems to take its service quite seriously, which means staffers rarely pass your table without asking if you’d like water or to clear your empty plates. This was the case on both of my visits.

BEST REASON TO RETURN: To enjoy an after-work cocktail or happy hour sip and share a few tapas.

THE BOTTOM LINE: Food B, service A

THE INFO: Mojito Latin Cuisine & Bar, 700 S. Rosemary Ave. (CityPlace, second floor), West Palm Beach; 561-832-6888; www.MojitoCP.com, open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday to midnight.

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