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Posted: 12:02 p.m. Monday, June 11, 2012

Sunday Special: Paris In Town Bistro

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Sunday Special: Paris In Town Bistro
Shrimp & Scallops a la plancha with chopped spinach and grilled asparagus in sauce vierge ($29.50)

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Sunday Special: Paris In Town Bistro photo
Chef Christophe Bozzano has 20 years of kitchen experience in France and the US.

By Liz Balmaseda

Palm Beach Post Staff Writer

THE FOOD

Simple and abundant French fare. The menu offers plenty of choices, from crepes to Croque Monsieur, quiche to frites, light salads and soups to meaty bistro classics like Beef Bourguignon and Steak au Poivre, as well as terrific lunch and dinner specials. The bistro serves brunch, lunch, dinner and just about everything in between.

THE BACKSTORY

Le Bistro was brought to the Downtown at the Gardens complex nearly one year ago by Diane and Beni Himmich, who also own the popular Paris in Town Le Café on U.S. 1 at PGA Boulevard. The couple met in Paris when Diane was an American student at the Sorbonne and Beni, a Morrocan-born, French-trained chef, was working at a Latin Quarter restaurant. They opened their French-inspired eateries as a tribute to the city where they fell in love.

THE AMBIANCE

Sweet. It’s a lovely little bistro, modeled after a 1920s-era French bistro, perched on a corner space with indoor and outdoor seating. The windows look out on the plaza’s whimsical carrousel and pedestrian scene. Well-behaved pups are welcome at the outdoor tables, where they’re provided with a fresh bowl of water.

GOOD BITES

The Quiche Lorraine ($7.95 at lunch, $8.95 at dinner) is a creamy rendition that picks up a lightly smoky flavor from bits of ham, an ample portion served with a fresh heap of spinach salad. The Onion Tart ($7.95 at lunch, $8.95 at dinner) is a heftier bite, brimming with tons of sliced, sweet onions in a sour cream-enriched filling. The frites ($3.95, side) are decidedly “bistro,” thin and crispy-delicious as they should be. I also enjoyed cracking the hot, caramelized sugar crust atop the crème brulee ($6.95), a vanilla-scented custard that was luscious, creamy.

NOT SO THRILLING

The Mussels Marinieres ($19.95) I ordered during a recent lunch proved to be disappointing. Cooked simply with white wine, shallots and parsley, many of the mussels were dry. The entire dish might have benefited from a more flavorful broth. I should note that, generally, mussels are quite popular at this bistro, which offers an all-you-can-eat mussels special on Monday nights for $26.95.

THE SERVICE

Friendly and accommodating. When we showed the failed mussels to our server, she quickly took them away. Moments later, the chef appeared with apologies. He offered another batch of mussels or another dish of my choosing. We chose the onion tart. We were not charged for the mussels.

BEST REASON TO RETURN

To enjoy a steak frites, an anytime crepe, a café au lait or a glass of (French, of course) wine on the outdoor patio, and people-watch.


THE BOTTOM LINE

B for food, B+ for service

The info: 11701 Lake Victoria Gardens Avenue, Suite 4101, Palm Beach Gardens; (561) 622-1616; ParisInTownBistro.com; moderately priced; open Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday from 11 a.m. to midnight, Saturday from 10 a.m. to midnight, Sunday from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; reservations accepted but walk-ins welcome

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