THE FOOD: Refined-rustic Roman cuisine. This is regionally inspired stuff – crispy artichokes ($14), braised tripe in a Roman pecorino, fresh mint and tomato sauce ($12), roasted veal bone marrow with casareccio (homemade) bread, parsley and caper pesto ($14), oozy burrata cheese served over roasted fava beans in a pepper oil dressing ($14). Oh, and there’s wood oven-roasted, milk-fed piglet ($24), crispy guanciale-studded carbonara ($16), and a range of carpacci and pizza.

THE AMBIANCE: Charming and inviting, the trattoria is housed in a 1920s bungalow formerly inhabited by a local pizzeria. Dark wood floors anchor a clean, white frame, simply dressed tables and a quaint checkered pattern that’s repeated on the seat cushions and drapes. In this space, which also includes a dramatically underlit, black-and-white bar, tables are filled with diners clearly in-the-know (they knew enough to make reservations). There’s also quasi-outdoor dining in an air conditioned, brick-lined patio out back (which is a nice, quiet spot for conversation).

THE BACKSTORY: The trattoria belongs to distinguished chef-restaurateur Angelo Elia’s family of restaurants. He owns Casa d’Angelo in Fort Lauderdale and Boca as well as D’Angelo Pizza, Wine Bar & Tapas in Oakland Park, with a Weston location in the works.

GOOD BITES: Where do we begin with a menu that’s pure temptation? As prosaic as it may sound, the Angelo’s House Appetizer ($16) is a respectable place to start. You get a generous platter of cured Italian meats – salami, pistachio-studded mortadella and prosciutto – with marinated and grilled zucchini and eggplant, assorted creamy and sharp cheeses and marinated black olives. In the Pappardelle Casarecce, you get a rib-sticking, rustic beauty of a wide noodle dish that’s dotted with sausage and baby meatballs and fresh buffalo ricotta ($17). The marinated Cornish hen ($22), served with garlic, olives and seared fennel is grilled just right, smoky-good on the outside, and juicy on the inside.

THE SERVICE: Pleasant, casual and for the most part efficient. Our dishes were served fairly quickly. On a busy night, our server was remarkably attentive. Her service would have been near perfect had she not forgotten to bring us the bread we requested.

BEST REASON TO RETURN: To eat your way down the menu, which lists reason after reason to return.

THE BOTTOM LINE: Food A, service B+

THE INFO: 9 S.E. Seventh Ave., Delray Beach; (561) 330-1237; open Sunday through Thursday from 5 to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday to 11 p.m.; moderate to expensive; complimentary valet; handicap access; reservations strongly recommended.