When it comes to Thanksgiving, there are the traditionalists. And then there are the adventurous. This could be reflected in the food you serve, or the family members you invite. For the Swirl Girls, it means serving a wine that’s a classic pairing to the savory spell cast from the kitchen, or an alternative that dares to steal the show from that very feast.

But no matter what category you place yourself in, one thing is certain. The table setting will be exquisite, the food divine, and the celebration warm and gracious.

From ‘Bold’ Lynn:

Start the big dinner off a bit differently, but with a tasteful alternative to sparkling: Try a 2010 Treana White Marsanne Viognier, a Rhone blend that’s not your usual appetizer wine, but will pair nicely with sushi or big, buttery cheeses. I found this at Publix, but it’s also at Total Wine and is about $20. It’s a golden-colored wine, with notes of honeysuckle and pear, which is why it pairs with a wide variety of foods.

For dessert, I like the traditional side: a Port with pecan pie. My choice is Cockburn’s Special Reserve Port from Portugal ($15.99, Total Wine; $17.99, ABC; $19.95, Crown Liquors), a pretty dark purple wine, almost off-dry, not very sweet and good with desserts (cheese or chocolate or rich pecan pie) or by itself.

From ‘Earthy’ Jennifer:

The most finicky of grapes to grow and from which to make wine, ironically is the peacemaker for a table topped with a variety of foods for feasting. It is the quintessential Thanksgiving wine, and for perfect reasons. It is pinot noir: medium body, low tannins, red fruits, sometimes fruit-forward, sometimes earthy, with subtle acidity. It complements the range of flavors found on the holiday table, from cranberry sauce to savory stuffing; crisp greens to tender, gravy-dressed turkey.

An intriguing pinot I recently tasted would make a fine centerpiece for the Thanksgiving table. The 2010 Cline Cool Climate Pinot Noir, from Sonoma Coast, ($15.99 Total Wine) blends brambly, minty, strawberry and raspberry aromas on the nose, while blending red berries, mint, and other light herbal notes on the palate. It's medium bodied with bright acidity and a lingering finish of tart cherries and strawberry. With those characteristics, it might even be a good companion if your dessert table includes a berry pie or tart.

A curious alternative to the traditional pinot noir is sparkling shiraz. Talk about a contrast. And what a pretty pour into the flute! The glass, and wine, comes alive as the effervescence streams up through the deep garnet body and pops from the froth. This is not your dainty wine, so don’t think you should only drink it as an aperitif.

The 2008 Paringa Sparkling Shiraz, from Australia, ($13.99 Total Wine) has a bountiful aroma of sweet cherries and candied berries. It tastes like a grown-up version of cherry soda. It’s full-flavored, crisp, clean and fruity with a touch of yeast. I loved how the effervescence brought a bright profile to a normally bold, peppery varietal. Even as I sipped the shiraz I could taste the well-balanced marriage, both complementary and contrasting, it would make with dried or tart fruits, nuts and sausage in stuffing, and a rich meat dish, whether turkey, ham or roast beef.

From ‘Dry’ Gwen:

A perfect match for the turkey or the sweet potato and marshmallow mash, the 2009 Gary Farrell Chardonnay is a Russian River Selection chardonnay ($29.99, Total Wine). The wine has a bright lemony-gold color in the glass and a warm smell of caramel-coated golden delicious apples, pears, banana, butterscotch and vanilla. It is a lovely mix of ripe, fresh fruit and warm buttery goodness. The oak is there to support, not to overwhelm, and the wine maintains a bright acidity. Complex and elegantly balanced, it’s one of the more enjoyable Cali chards I’ve tried this year.

Pinot lovers looking for something different should try the 2008 Robert Hall Rhone de Robles, a Rhone-style red blend from the Central Coast ($21.99, available through Drew Feinberg, yourwinesage.com). With a nose of juicy red fruit, earth and hints of spice, this wine is a definite people-pleaser. On the palate, the wine offers up flavors of cherry, black raspberry and light oak and spice. On tannin and body, it comes in slightly heavier than a pinot noir, but would still be enjoyable with the traditional bird and cranberry sauce, or with a non-traditional holiday meal of pork loin, duck or lamb.