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China Beach Bistro is no cheap takeout joint. The eatery serves fancy fare. Dinner entrees range from $12 for vegetable dishes to $40 for Peking duck.

ATMOSPHERE

A notch below formal. There’s a bar with a TV, but the vibe feels more like jacket and tie than shorts and flip flops. For the Northwood neighborhood, this restaurant offers another sign of life.

OUR FAVORITE FOOD/PRICE

The kung pao shrimp ($19) was spicy and filling. We also liked the grilled scallops and mushroom appetizer ($6), which included two skewers. The ginger beef ($17.95) wasn’t as good — the meat was fatty and the sauce was bland.

REASON TO GO

High-end Chinese fare in a neighborhood on the rebound.

SERVICE

Friendly and attentive. Our server visited frequently, and he won extra points for returning promptly when we weren’t immediately ready to order, rather than disappearing for the standard 10 minutes.

NOISE LEVEL

Modest. Classical music played on the speakers, and the restaurant was uncrowded.

KID FRIENDLY

The atmosphere is a bit formal to feel kid friendly. We didn’t see any children during our Saturday night visit.