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Howley’s combines meatloaf, burgers and other greasy-spoon staples with ahi tuna, goat cheese and microbrews. Howley’s serves breakfast all day. Sandwiches start at $7.25. The most expensive entrée is $22.50.

ATMOSPHERE

Fifties diner gets a makeover. At first glance, Howley’s looks like it must have 60 years ago. A closer look reveals modern touches, such as local art on the walls and a host sporting a prominent nose ring.

OUR FAVORITE FOOD/PRICE

The crab cake dinner ($22.50) boasted two large cakes loaded with tender crab meat. The chopped steak platter ($12.70) came with a hefty burger and plenty of fries.

REASON TO GO

Howley’s is such a landmark that George W. Bush and John McCain made campaign stops here. The simple-but-satisfying food lives up to the hype.

SERVICE

Friendly. Our servers were attentive.

NOISE LEVEL

Moderate. Rock music played on the sound system, but it was quiet enough to allow conversation.

KID FRIENDLY

Yes. There’s a children’s menu, and the atmosphere is welcoming toward kids.