There’s just something about duck fat. It’s the promise of decadence. It’s sinking into the subliminal, with the knowledge of naughtiness.

A recent visit to Sur La Table in Palm Beach Gardens yielded 11.2 ounces of liquid love. My night steamed with possibility.

Before you get too concerned about my health — duck fat is high in unsaturated fat — about 13 percent that is polyunsaturated fat. Duck fat is actually closer in composition to olive oil than butter, and while it might not be the healthiest fat out there for cooking, I am very comfortable in indulging as an occasional treat now and then. And since the jar cost $11.95 it would definitely be occasional. The French have been enjoying it for decades and they look fantastic and I was ready to get my duck fat on.

Not wanting to go the duck confit route (I had one night, not several), I was intrigued by a recipe from Bon Appétit for Duck Fat Pancakes – the perfect mingling of sweet and savory, the playful mix of elegant and comfort food, and an easy recipe to boot.

The recipe resembles regular pancakes except these are actually cooked in 1/3 inch of the duck fat. Be careful of the sputters as you flip the pancakes.

They puffed out and became marvelously crispy along the edges, yet still remained incredibly light and delicate, due to the large amount of cornstarch the recipe demands.

These were, hands-down, the best pancakes I’ve ever made. Decadent, yet still light. Flavorful and delicious and absolutely addicting.

We had them with pure Vermont maple syrup, but I would make them again and serve them with a savory topping as part of a dinner party – perhaps with a mushroom-thyme cream sauce. They could wear the savory hat, effortlessly so. They were so flavorful I would proudly serve them to guests – morning or night or midnight snack.

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DUCK FAT PANCAKES

Recipe by Martin Picard, published in Bon Appétit, January 2012.

Makes 16 pancakes

2 cups whole milk

2 large eggs

2 cups plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Duck fat or clarified unsalted butter, melted (about 1 cup)

Pure maple syrup

1. Whisk milk and eggs in a large bowl to blend. Whisk flour, cornstarch, baking powder, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl.

2. Add dry ingredients to egg mixture; whisk just to blend. Cover and chill for up to 1 hour.

3. Melt duck fat in a large skillet to a depth of 1/3” over medium heat. Using a 1/4-cup measure and working in batches, spoon batter into skillet.

4. Cook until pancakes are slightly puffed and golden brown and bubbles form and begin to pop along edges, 1-2 minutes. Flip and cook until golden brown and cooked through, 1–2 minutes longer. Using a slotted spoon, transfer pancakes to a paper towel-lined plate.

5. Transfer pancakes to plates. Drizzle generously with syrup.

Ingredient info: Look for rendered duck fat in the freezer section of better supermarkets, at specialty foods stores, and online at dartagnan.com.