Question: A friend of mine has given me a large duck, a bird around 5 pounds. I have never cooked a duck and would like to get some tips on how to go about doing it. I know ducks are fatty and fat is one thing that I generally try to keep to the minimum. I would appreciate some tips. — Anonymous
Answer: Although ducks by nature have a lot more fat than chicken or turkey, especially around the breast, good quality well-bred ducks and geese should have a relatively meaty, and commensurately less fatty, breasts.
Nonetheless, the generous layer of fat under the skin of all ducks makes cooking them different from, and somewhat more difficult than, just roasting a chicken — one reason why duck has remained mostly a restaurant dish. The slightly gamy flavor of its meat may be another. Its growing popularity, however, has started to bring about its migration to our home kitchens as well.
I assume you are intending to cook the bird whole, not cut up, for a family feast, similar to what you would do with a turkey, in which case roasting in the oven is the usual method. Restaurant chefs advise not to overcook a duck, which may cause the breast meat to become dry.
But on the other hand, rendering the fat and crisping the skin may need longer cooking. Here are some tips to get around this conundrum and achieve both ends at the same time:
Prick the skin all over with the tip of a paring knife or sharp fork, going just skin-deep without piercing the meat. Do the same during the roasting as well to accelerate the process, which will help in making the skin crisper.
Before putting the trussed duck in the oven, brown it in a large sauté pan — or the roasting pan itself if it is heavy — over fairly high heat. Turn the duck with a spatula to brown evenly all over, paying attention to the breasts. Keep draining the rendered fats that accumulate in the pan so the skins achieve better contact with the hot pan surface.
Roast the browned duck in a roasting pan with a wire rack. Keep track of the fat as it accumulates. Spoon out the excess once or twice as the bird roasts to prevent the risk of fire.
For roasting, there are a number of time-temperature variants. Here is one set: Roast breast-side up in a preheated 325 oven for about 45 minutes. Raise the temperature to 500° and roast, breast still up, for another 10 to 20 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer registers 180° on the thigh. Shield the breast with foil if it overbrowns.
One method of making the skin more crisp is to carve the bird once done and then place the pieces under the oven broiler for a short time.
Duck also tastes great done outdoors in a gas or charcoal grill with cover. You have to be careful though about flare-ups from fat drippings. Pan-sautéing the bird beforehand to take out some fat may help here. A cut up duck may be easier to grill, however.
Duck a l’orange is traditionally the most popular duck dish in America. But the sauce can have any flavor you desire, including mango. Make the sauce separately and glaze the duck with it during the last few minutes of cooking.
Then serve extra sauce on the side. You will, of course, season the duck inside and out before trussing and put onion, garlic, etc. in the cavity, as desired.
Feedback For Charles Forbes of Stuart: You can get the two-stage Chef’sChoice electric knife sharpener for $69.99 at any Bed Bath & Beyond store in your area. And if you use their 20 percent off coupon, the price will come down to under $60.
The old two-stage model, which was pictured in this column a couple of weeks ago, I actually bought for $29.99 at a sale many years ago, I don’t even remember where. You can try Amazon or other sources on the Web.
NOTES FROM OUR KITCHEN: Zester for citrus fruits
As the name suggests, a zester can add a lot of zest to any recipe, be it savory or sweet, such as sauces and custards and even such drinks as iced tea. It is designed to gouge-cut fine strands off the skin of citrus fruits, including orange and lemon.
You hold the cutting end, curved side down, firmly against the fruit, held in the other hand, and work your way down from top to bottom without lifting the zester and maintaining pressure. Fine threads of the oil-bearing colored skin will spew out of the five holes in the gadget.
It may take a couple of tries to get it right. Use the zest soon or freeze.