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‘Food Truck Frenzy’ brings moveable feasts to Village Commons


Early on, crowds gathered around Tango Grill on Wednesday, September 14, 2011. Photo by Libby Volgyes/Palm Beach Post.

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WEST PALM BEACH — If you are attending something called a “Food Truck Frenzy,” you have to plan your evening as carefully as Joey and Rochelle Alonzi did.

First they made a circuit of the 25 or so gourmet food trucks parked at the Village Commons this evening. The West Palm Beach couple began with small portions of sushi.

“This is just an appetizer,” said Joey Alonzi. Then they split up. Rochelle Alonzi stood in line at Curbside Gourmet’s aqua truck for crab cake sliders and contemplated whether to get hand-cut truffle fries.

“Those fries look so good, but I’m trying to be good,” she said.

At the truck next door her husband bought a Philly cheese steak the size of a residential mailbox. He could also have eaten Romanian food, which resembles Greek food. Or gourmet vegan macaroni, or Caribbean and Argentinian dishes, as well as a variety of pizzas and Mexican dishes.

Hands-down winner in both the best presentation and no-truck category was Saffron, a Indian restaurant of Jupiter. While other vendors sweated inside their cramped truck kitchens, the crew from Saffron set out silver- and gold-plated chafing dishes fit for a rajah and towering piles of samosas, fat triangular pastries stuffed with fragrant spiced meat and vegetables, all on a long table with a crisp write tablecloth.

The Alonzis met several friends at the Frenzy, the first of its kind in West Palm Beach.

“Look at these lines,” said the Alonzis’ friend Terry Jahrsdoerfer . “I wish I had a truck. I could sell anything.”

Alonzi, a slight woman, was pacing herself like a culinary athlete.

“I might have a cupcake later. I saw two cupcake trucks,” she said.

“Actually, there are three now,” offered the man behind her in line.

Read related story: 25 high-cuisine trucks to converge at Village Commons in West Palm Beach this Wednesday

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Tastings: Eateries get ready for Flavor Palm Beach


The kick-off bash for Flavor Palm Beach is still more than a week away and the lineup of participating restaurants is still coming together, but it’s safe to say the monthlong discount dining promotion is shaping up to be a drool-worthy one.

During the month of September, more than 30 restaurants will offer special Flavor Palm Beach prix fixe menus — that’s three courses at some of the county’s top eateries for $20 at lunch and $30 to $35 at dinner.

This year’s Flavor spots include a varied and venerable batch: Pistache, The Restaurant at the Four Seasons, City Cellar and Cafe Boulud among the central county eateries, 3800 at the Marriott Resort, Cafe Chardonnay, Talay Thai and Capital Grille among the northern locations, and City Oyster, Rack’s and Table 42 in south county.

The fourth annual dining showcase launches with a grand tasting on Aug. 26, on the Great Lawn of the Downtown West Palm Beach Waterfront. (Proceeds benefit the Greater Palm Beach Area Chapter of the American Red Cross.) The preview includes bites and cocktails from some participating restaurants and live entertainment (including the String Theory Band, ice sculpture demonstrations, a light show and dance performances from Palm Beach Atlantic University dancers).

Flavor Palm Beach Kick Off
WHAT: Party to launch the fourth annual dining promotion

WHEN: Aug. 26, from 6 to 9 p.m.

WHERE: Downtown West Palm Beach Waterfront, on the eastern end of Clematis Street.

HOW MUCH:
$35 in advance and $40 at the door if available.

INFO: Visit www.flavor palmbeach.com for information and reservations

SOAKING UP SUMMER, BOULUD STYLE

Café Boulud has a terrific little summer happy hour going on from 4 to 7:30 p.m. every day. The cafe’s new executive chef, Jim Leiken, serves up a menu of tempting bar snacks for the pairing at the bar and lounge: Piggie Sliders topped with pulled pork, a Cubano sandwich, a Provençal-style Tuna Pain Bagnat and a Moroccan Lamb Merguez sausage, among the offerings. The bar and lounge menu items are $8 each.

CAFÉ BOULUD
is at 301 Australian Ave., in the Brazilian Court, Palm Beach. Phone: (561) 655-6060.
— Liz Balmaseda

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Kitchen Counselor: How to roast a duck


Question: A friend of mine has given me a large duck, a bird around 5 pounds. I have never cooked a duck and would like to get some tips on how to go about doing it. I know ducks are fatty and fat is one thing that I generally try to keep to the minimum. I would appreciate some tips. — Anonymous

Answer: Although ducks by nature have a lot more fat than chicken or turkey, especially around the breast, good quality well-bred ducks and geese should have a relatively meaty, and commensurately less fatty, breasts.

Nonetheless, the generous layer of fat under the skin of all ducks makes cooking them different from, and somewhat more difficult than, just roasting a chicken — one reason why duck has remained mostly a restaurant dish. The slightly gamy flavor of its meat may be another. Its growing popularity, however, has started to bring about its migration to our home kitchens as well.

I assume you are intending to cook the bird whole, not cut up, for a family feast, similar to what you would do with a turkey, in which case roasting in the oven is the usual method. Restaurant chefs advise not to overcook a duck, which may cause the breast meat to become dry.

But on the other hand, rendering the fat and crisping the skin may need longer cooking. Here are some tips to get around this conundrum and achieve both ends at the same time:
Prick the skin all over with the tip of a paring knife or sharp fork, going just skin-deep without piercing the meat. Do the same during the roasting as well to accelerate the process, which will help in making the skin crisper.

Before putting the trussed duck in the oven, brown it in a large sauté pan — or the roasting pan itself if it is heavy — over fairly high heat. Turn the duck with a spatula to brown evenly all over, paying attention to the breasts. Keep draining the rendered fats that accumulate in the pan so the skins achieve better contact with the hot pan surface.

Roast the browned duck in a roasting pan with a wire rack. Keep track of the fat as it accumulates. Spoon out the excess once or twice as the bird roasts to prevent the risk of fire.

For roasting, there are a number of time-temperature variants. Here is one set: Roast breast-side up in a preheated 325 oven for about 45 minutes. Raise the temperature to 500° and roast, breast still up, for another 10 to 20 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer registers 180° on the thigh. Shield the breast with foil if it overbrowns.

One method of making the skin more crisp is to carve the bird once done and then place the pieces under the oven broiler for a short time.

Duck also tastes great done outdoors in a gas or charcoal grill with cover. You have to be careful though about flare-ups from fat drippings. Pan-sautéing the bird beforehand to take out some fat may help here. A cut up duck may be easier to grill, however.

Duck a l’orange is traditionally the most popular duck dish in America. But the sauce can have any flavor you desire, including mango. Make the sauce separately and glaze the duck with it during the last few minutes of cooking.

Then serve extra sauce on the side. You will, of course, season the duck inside and out before trussing and put onion, garlic, etc. in the cavity, as desired.

Feedback
For Charles Forbes of Stuart: You can get the two-stage Chef’sChoice electric knife sharpener for $69.99 at any Bed Bath & Beyond store in your area. And if you use their 20 percent off coupon, the price will come down to under $60.

The old two-stage model, which was pictured in this column a couple of weeks ago, I actually bought for $29.99 at a sale many years ago, I don’t even remember where. You can try Amazon or other sources on the Web.

NOTES FROM OUR KITCHEN: Zester for citrus fruits

As the name suggests, a zester can add a lot of zest to any recipe, be it savory or sweet, such as sauces and custards and even such drinks as iced tea. It is designed to gouge-cut fine strands off the skin of citrus fruits, including orange and lemon.

You hold the cutting end, curved side down, firmly against the fruit, held in the other hand, and work your way down from top to bottom without lifting the zester and maintaining pressure. Fine threads of the oil-bearing colored skin will spew out of the five holes in the gadget.
It may take a couple of tries to get it right. Use the zest soon or freeze.

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Cooking by heart: Plantain omelet satisfies a sweet-salty whim


(J. Gwendolynne Berry/The Palm Beach Post)

Today’s story launches an occasional series that pays homage to the recipes we’ve inherited, memorized, improvised upon and made our own. These are dishes lovingly cooked and lavishly sprinkled with soul. They tell us who we are, where we come from and what we love.

As the world turns, the plantain ripens. And ripens. With some anticipation, I’ve been watching it turn gradually from parrot green to pale yellow to spotted mustard to just about fully brown-black.

This process, a morphing from savory to sweet, has taken a good two weeks. And for two weeks I’ve deliberated on the fate of the poor plantain.
Read the full story

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Food Calendar: Learn about organic foods at In the Kitchen in Tequesta


Classes
WHOLE FOODS MARKET, 1400 Glades Rd., Boca Raton. (561) 447-0000.
Raising a Healthy, Holistic Family, 6-7 p.m. Jan. 5. Join Dr. Tokar and learn how a unique combination of lifestyle choices, genetics, and environment can determine your health. Free.

Supplements & Super Foods Lecture, 6-7 p.m. Jan. 6. Explore the different forms and variations of supplements and breakdown what is best for your body. Free.

‘Raw Truth to the Fountain of Youth’ Author Appearance, 7-8 p.m. Jan. 7. Join for an inspiring lecture including a food demonstration and tasting.

Be Good To Your Whole Body Lifestyle & Wellness Fair, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Jan. 8. A day of festivities all about wellness and eating naturally. Free.

The Good Grub Club: Engine 2 Brunch, 10:30 a.m.–noon Jan. 9. Dine in the café on a four course brunch served and prepared by chefs featuring vegetarian, plant & whole grain based foods using recipes and fundamentals from the Engine 2 Diet. $10.

RISTORANTE SAPORI, 99 Royal Palm Plaza, Boca Raton, (561) 367-9779.
Beginner cooking classes, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. every other Saturday with chef Marco Pindo. Reservations required. Classes, geared to beginners, include pastas, quick sauces and basics of fish, vegetables and other food. $50.

IN THE KITCHEN, Gallery Square North, 389 Tequesta Drive, Tequesta, (561) 747-7117 or www.inthekitchennow.com

Healthy New Year; The Organic Table, 6:30-8:30 p.m. Jan. 6. Chef Chris of Palm Beach Organics prepares a dinner with local organic produce and sustainable fish. Learn to prepare and enjoy a variety of healthy dishes. $75.

PUBLIX APRON’S COOKING SCHOOL, Polo Club Shoppes, 5030 Champion Blvd., Suite D2, Boca Raton, (561) 994-4461 or (561) 994-4883

Soups for the Soul, 6 p.m. Jan. 5. Join for some soup for the soul. $35.

Sushi 101, 6 p.m. Jan. 7. Learn the ancient art of sushi from beginning to end, including proper rice cooking and ingredient selection. $50.

I Dream of Chocolate, 10 a.m. Jan. 8. Learn to make an assortment of chocolate treats. $40.

What To Do with Chicken, 6:30 p.m. Jan. 8. A fresh new approach to a common protein. $40.

Jose Garces, 6:30 p.m. Jan. 10. Celebrity chef demonstration. $55.

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Lantana mango maven Marilynn Hatcher keeps family’s sweet tradition alive


People come from all corners of Florida to visit the mango field of Marilynn Hatcher. (Libby Volgyes / Palm Beach Post)

Hidden in plain sight, right in the middle of the city, are four country acres with a sweet secret.

It is a secret revealed on a Thursday night, when an e-mail goes out to a cult of followers. The next day, cars line up on a hill outside an unmarked gate one block west of Interstate 95 on Hypoluxo road, just west of Lantana.

Word has gone out that the fruit of Hatcher Mango Hill is ripe and ready to eat.

See more photos from Hatcher Mango Hill here.

Yes, this cloak-and-dagger ritual happens exclusively for a mango. But not just any mango. It was on this property that, back in the 1940s, the late John Hatcher, a Lake Worth farmer, first crossed two (Or three? Or four?) kinds of mangoes at his nursery and produced the Hatcher mango — and created a cult favorite.
Read the full story

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Quick Bites: Stok shots will help you add caffeine to everything


Stok shots are perfect for making iced coffee or adding a jolt to ice cream; Butterfingers Snackerz are crispy pillows of buttery decadence.

Stok shots are perfect for making iced coffee or adding a jolt to ice cream; Butterfingers Snackerz are crispy pillows of buttery decadence.

Stuff we love
Java jolts:
Stok shots are little creamer-size cups of strong, sweet coffee. The shots are great for making iced coffee, adding a boost of flavor and caffeine to your daily java, and drizzling over ice cream. I added a mocha jolt to my homemade brownies, and also used a thimble of it to make an ancho-coffee rub for steak. Stok comes sweetened, unsweetened and extra-caffeinated. A box of 24 shots is $2.99 at Winn-Dixie.

— Victoria Malmer

Meet our new addiction
Butterfinger Snackerz:
These are crispy pillows of buttery decadence. The bite-size chocolatey squares have a Butterfinger center and a drizzle of peanut butter on top. In one perfect pop of flavor, these nuggets hit all the right sweet-salty notes. They’re 170 worth-it calories for a single-serve, 1.28 oz. pouch (suggested retail is 89 cents a pouch, $3.29 for a 9.2 oz. bag). Nestlé sent us a batch recently, and we’ve treated ourselves to cocoa-peanut interludes during spurts of reality TV. The Snackerz (Why the Z? Who knowz?) can be found in the candy aisle of your local supermarket.
— Liz Balmaseda

The sizzle

Drop a dime for the doggies — and the cats — at any of the 12 Panera Bread cafes in Palm Beach County, where donations collected will benefit the Peggy Adams Animal Rescue League, a humane society that provides services to more than 8,000 cats and dogs each year. The program, “Operation Dough-Nation,” will raise money through the end of July by collecting cash in canisters near the registers. Along with this program, Panera also donates its fresh baked foods each evening to those in need.
There are multiple locations in Boca Raton, Boynton Beach, Delray Beach, Palm Beach Gardens, Royal Palm Beach, Wellington and West Palm Beach. Visit www.panerabread.com for the location nearest you. For more information on Peggy Adams Animal Rescue League, visit www.hspb.org or call (561) 686-6656 .

Artistic harvest: Wellington abstract artist Phyllis Silk will be honored at Whole Foods Market as part of its ongoing local artist program. Her work is currently on display at the Whole Foods Market in Wellington through Aug. 31. An artist for more than 30 years, Silk focuses her work on portraits, still life and landscapes.
A meet-and-greet reception will be held Sunday from 6:30-8 p.m. where guests can meet the artist, sip wine and snack on appetizers prepared by master chef Chris Paul of Wild Orchid Fusion. Donation is $10, with all proceeds benefiting the Luv-a-Bun Rabbit Rescue in Lake Worth. Register at the customer service desk to attend the event.
To be considered for the next Local Artist Exhibit, please e-mail a link to the artist’s website or three samples of work to Lauren.Belinsky@Whole
Foods.com
Whole Foods Market Wellington is at 2635 State Road 7. Call (561) 904-4000 for additional information. For more information on Luv-A-Bun, visit www.luvabun.net.
— Katie McBroom
bare_solo
Go BARE: So often, we have to choose between convenience and kindness to the earth. Bare by Solo might be a noble compromise. It’s a line of disposable/recyclable convenience dishware that gives us earth-friendly options in single-use plates and cups. Bare, which stands for Bringing Alternative Resources for the Environment, is not only made of recycled, recyclable, compostable and renewable resource materials, it’s quite attractive as well! Available at Target. More info at www.barebysolo.com.
— Victoria Malmer
Bare by Solo
E-mail items for Quick Bites — restaurant news, openings, closings, events and classes —
to pbaccent@pbpost.com with Quick Bites in the subject line. Event and class listings are due two weeks prior to the event. Please include a daytime contact phone number with submissions.

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Bran give brown rice healthy boost


Question: We love rice, especially of the Basmati variety, and we serve it often — all white rice. But I keep hearing health experts, including Dr. Oz, plugging brown rice for their nutritional benefits. What is brown rice? Is it a different kind of rice, or like the whole-wheat flour, just processed differently? — P. G., West Palm Beach

Answer:
The truth lies in the second part of your last sentence — the same rice just processed differently. Like all grains, the rice kernel too is enclosed in a tough inedible hull. When that outer covering is removed, what emerges is the kernel of brown rice — brown because that is the color of the bran naturally covering each kernel, whether long, short, medium or roundish. On the inside, most rice kernels are quite white, however.
Read the full story

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Veggie Chronicles: Pasta, rice must-haves in a pinch


By STEVE PETUSEVSKY
I’ve been on way too many planes lately. As much as I like the peace and solitude, along with the fact that there is no phone and e-mail, it can be quite boring. Last night, as I was waiting for yet another flight, I decided to entertain myself with a spontaneous food game called, “Deserted Island Must-Haves.”
Maybe you’ve played the music version? What music would you absolutely need to have with you if you were stranded on a deserted island?
In the kitchen version, I tried to come up with a list of five critical ingredients. But 10 was the best I could do. I think the selection says a bunch about one’s personality.
In fact, back in the day when I worked for Whole Foods Market, we used to actually have a game that matched people up according to what they had placed in their shopping cart. I guess it’s no different from wardrobe, book tastes or art.
So here is my top 10 list of ingredients that I would have to have if I were stranded on a desert island: basil, hot chili peppers, ginger, garlic, onion, limes or lemons, pasta of any kind, basmati and brown rice (I counted these as one), olive oil, Parmesan cheese.
Trust me, this was really hard to do and I feel terrible about not being able to include other favorites like arugula, potatoes, polenta, lemongrass, sesame oil and olives. But here are two recipes that show what I’d do with them.

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Kitchen Counselor: Try lamb when you have time, money for something special


Question: How should I cook a leg of lamb? I haven’t cooked lamb for many years and would appreciate some suggestions. — Lois, West Palm Beach
Answer: Although not as common in America as beef or chicken, lamb is a very flavorful meat and its popularity is gaining with the influx of immigrants from the Middle East and the Indian subcontinent. In India, though, goat is the gourmet meat of choice, especially in the northeastern part of the region. Every Indian (and Pakistani and Bangladeshi) grocery store here that has a meat counter, as well as most Jamaican stores. Most carry goat meat as a staple.
For lamb or goat, the leg is a pretty expensive cut and you should invest a little effort to prepare and serve it. There are, of course, traditional ways of cooking it, such as roasting it in the oven after marinating it in olive oil, lemon juice and such herbs as rosemary, thyme, oregano and mint etc., and, of course, garlic and freshly ground pepper and salt. You can find a large number of these recipes in comprehensive cookbooks and on the Internet.
My favorite way of serving lamb is kebab, marinated with Indian spices and herbs and grilled outdoors on a charcoal or gas grill. The real deal is to do it the Indian tandoor oven, with its intense heat, but a regular outdoor grill with enough thermal output will do. Marinating for at least 12 to 24 hours makes a big difference, despite what some experts would tell you. Here is how:
If the leg has bone in, debone it using a sharp boning knife, or have your butcher do it. Cut the meat into about 1½ -inch cubes, cutting out the attached silver skin or excess fat. Wash the meat pieces and drain well. Prepare the marinade. Grind 1 chopped onion, 4 to 5 cloves of garlic and a half to 1-inch piece of ginger in a mini chopper (or finely mince together with a chef knife).
Mix with the paste 1½ to 2 teaspoons of freshly ground coriander seeds, ½ teaspoon ground cumin seeds, 1 teaspoon paprika, pinch or more of cayenne, half cup yogurt, 2 tablespoons lemon or lime juice and freshly ground pepper and salt to taste. For a more authentic Indian flavor, buy a packet of “boti kebab masala” from an Indian grocery (of which there are several in town) and add 1 to 2 teaspoons to the marinade mix. (Caution: They can be hot.) Toss the drained meat cubes with 3 to 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil and mix thoroughly with the marinade in a stainless steel bowl. Cover well and let marinate at least overnight in the refrigerator.
The next day, thread the lamb cubes on metal skewers and grill on a preheated charcoal or gas grill until done. Brush the meat frequently with the remaining marinade, mixing in a tablespoon or two of melted butter. Brief sparks created by dripping marinade will add to the flavor. The outside of the cubes should be almost crisp but the inside should remain still juicy. The grilling should not take more than 15 to 20 minutes. Serve with Indian naan or pita bread, brushed with butter and heated on the grill, and mint-yogurt sauce.

FEEDBACK
Phyllis Wright of West Palm Beach e-mailed about the April 28 column, “Allow pineapple to ripen fully to balance acidity and sweetness”: “I read the article and wanted to pass on this tip I learned years ago while a member of the Broward County Rare Fruit and Vegetable Council. Selecting a perfect pineapple is not as daunting as I once believed. So simple — just give a gentle tug to one of the “leaves” in the center of its tuft (not sure what it’s called). If the leaf pulls out easily, it is perfect for serving/enjoying now. It will keep in the refrigerator at this point for a few days.
“Another thought to share with you … Many years ago, I purchased a pineapple at this stage and promptly refrigerated it. Good thing, too. When I opened the fridge, there was a very large spider sitting on top!! Fortunately, the cold air had put it to sleep. My hubby was called into action to remove it — outside, of course. Now, when I buy pineapple I rinse it first to flush any other tag-alongs, then refrigerate.”

Thanks for sharing your experience. The “tuft” is simply called the crown. But be careful when you give the leaves a tug; they are thorny and can impart a painful prick. — G.R.

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