
The Four Seasons' Restaurant's newest menu selections are courtesy of chef Daryl Moiles. (Brandon Kruse / The Post)
Change is coming to Palm Beach’s Big Three.
I’m referring to the restaurants on the island’s three major resorts: The Breakers, The Ritz-Carlton and Four Seasons Palm Beach. In keeping with the trend toward lower prices (yes, even Palm Beachers are feeling the pinch) or the trend toward more eclectic or casual dining, each hotel has tweaked its culinary formula in recent months.
‘Uncomplicated good food’
The Four Seasons (2800 S. Ocean Blvd., 561-582-2800, fourseasons.com) is perhaps making the most dramatic changes. At one time, the resort’s main eatery — simply called The Restaurant — was Palm Beach County’s premier destination for high-end dining, famous for a tropical-gone-gourmet approach in a very formal setting.
Now, the resort has redesigned the dining room, letting in more natural light and opening an adjoining outdoor lounge. It also has lightened up the menu — taste and price-wise. Think more Atlantic seafood and more entrées in the $20-30 range (a dish of sea scallops goes for $21); a four-course tasting menu runs $60.
Among the menu’s newest sensations, courtesy of chef Daryl Moiles, is a dish of prosciutto-wrapped halibut with roasted beets. (By the way, Moiles continues the restaurant’s tradition of having an in-house organic herb garden.)
As for the resort’s more casual restaurant, the Ocean Bistro, the focus is on “uncomplicated good food,” says Four Seasons General Manager Kathleen Horrigan. That translates to such dishes as meat loaf and fried chicken.
And the resort’s Bar and Lounge is putting an emphasis on serious mixology, as in cocktails crafted with native nectars and herbs. We’re tempted to stop by for the signature Herb Garden Mojito.
Ritz-Carlton stressing value
Similarly, at The Ritz-Carlton (100 S. Ocean Blvd., Manalapan, 561-533-6000, ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/palmbeach), there’s a move to put a higher value on, well, value.
The resort is no longer making use of its formal dining room (called Angle), but is instead repositioning its indoor/outdoor casual restaurant, Temple Orange, as a destination for Italian comfort food.
That translates into house-made pastas and risottos and thin-crust flat breads, all courtesy of chef Ryan Artim. Prices are kept relatively in check — pastas start at $16, entrées at $21. And if you step outdoors, you’ll even find telescopes to help you with your star-gazing.
The resort is also rebranding its even more casual Breeze oceanfront eatery — it’s now billed as a “burger bistro,” serving gourmet burgers (plus sandwiches and salads). Plus, The Ritz is still going strong with its Stir bar, which emphasizes specialty cocktails.
French fare, contemporary approach
Finally, The Breakers (1 S. County Road, 561-655-6611, thebreakers.com), with the largest number of restaurants of any Palm Beach resort (including ones outside the main property), is making some big changes, too. Topping them all is a new concept for the resort’s signature restaurant, L’Escalier. The Breakers is no longer splitting the restaurant into two entities — formal and brasserie-style; instead, it’s one eatery — and a very creative one at that.
Chef Greg Vassos, who trained under culinary giant Eric Ripert (of Le Bernadin), has put an emphasis on French fare done with a striking, contemporary approach. That can mean a foie gras “brûlée” or a duck l’orange “roulade.” Tasting menus start at $90 (with a $50 wine pairing) — in other words, serious food at serious prices.
At the same time, The Breakers is offering savings at some of its other restaurants: The Flagler Steakhouse has a three-course dinner for $49 and a new three-course Sunday brunch for $35. The family-friendly Italian Restaurant has a three-course dinner for $35. And the deservedly beloved Seafood Bar has a new late-night happy hour (11 p.m. to 1:30 a.m.) with half-off specials on well drinks, house wine and beer.
CHOWDER ON SALE
Cold times call for hot soup. So it’s no surprise that January is National Soup Month. In recognition of that fact, Legal Sea Foods, situated at Boca Raton’s Town Center mall (6000 Glades Road, 561-447-2112, legalseafoods.com), is offering its famous New England clam chowder for 60 cents a cup (with purchase of an entrée) on Jan. 20. Why 60 cents? The date also happens to be the Legal chain’s 60th birthday.
THE WEEKLY NOSH: Carved meats at The Carving Station
You have to know a restaurant that calls itself the Carving Station would serve a nice roast or two. And that’s very much the case at this Lake Park favorite (720 U.S. 1, 561-842-7791, carvingstation buffet.com).
It’s been at least a year since my last visit to the buffet-style restaurant, which I named Best Dining Value in my 2007 Hungries awards. And I forgot what a true value it is — just $9.59 at dinner for the all-you-can-eat spread (drinks and dessert not included).
But key to the spread are those carved meats — we’re talking roast turkey straight off the bird, roast beef in all its juicy glory and more. When I came for dinner, they were carving the most perfect roasted pork loin — a Sunday special. And all this comes with terrific sides (love the stuffing and the spaghetti and meatballs) and a decent salad bar.
Needless to say, I won’t wait another year for my next visit.



